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1988 Trooper 5sp for sale. Completely built OME suspension

2K views 11 replies 5 participants last post by  EricJette 
#1 ·
So, I picked up my 88 Trooper about 6 months ago off Craigslist for $1500. 185k original miles. It ran a little rough, and the original suspension was sagging. I planned on making this my new offroad rig (had just sold my LX470 for something I could build and beat up on).

Previous Owner had replaced the distributor and fuel pump. Timing belt had been replaced years ago. Rear brakes were dragging, and the front brakes were pretty much useless. I removed the smog pump and all the old emissions stuff that is now obsolete with new style catalytic converters and put on a new exhaust. EGR removed, plugged intake side. Headers EGR port plugged. 02 sensor still hooked up. EGR blockoff plate installed. AIR pump removed, smog rail removed. Rail holes plugged with M14 x 1.25 drain plugs ground down (as per this forum)

Replaced and labeled all vacuum lines, T stat, and PCV valve.

I did the following over the next month:

New tires - BF Goodrich All Terrains KOs all around, including spare
Pacesetter Headers
New exhaust from the headers back
Old Man Emu nitro charger sport shocks front and back
Ole Man Emu leaf springs
Indy 4x4 rear leaf spring bushings kit
Indy 4x4 HD shackles
Indy 4x4 leaf spring u bolt set
Indy 4x4 braided SS brake lines front and back
Indy 4x4 Premium CV axles
Indy 4x4 Ball joints, greaseable upper and lower both sides, with balljoint flip and Indy 4x4 BJ spacers
Indy 4x4 HD tie rod sleeves and poly booted greasable tie rod ends
Indy 4x4 greaseable sway bar bushings and sway bar end links
Indy 4x4 low pro bumpstops up front
Energy Suspension bumpstops in the rear
New calipers all around
New Bosch rotors all around
New Bosch pads all around
New Wagner brake master cylinder (Firestone machine bleed the system while doing my front end alignment)
Front wheel bearing repack and seal replacement
ECM relocated to behind glovebox
Seafoam engine treatment
Oil and filter change with Mobil 1 synthetic
Transmission fluid change Mobil 1 synthetic
T Case fluid change Mobil 1 synthetic
USB charger cigarette lighter installed
Carpet gutted, floor wire wheeled and Herculined
Rocker panels and fenders Herculined

Included, but not installed:
Superwinch manual locking hubs (Indy 4x4)
Rear door latches and mechanisms
4 new window roller handles
5mm plastic lining cut to fit all carpeted door/cargo panels behind covers (weatherproofing)

Truck is in great shape underneath.

My problem now is I think the truck may need some engine work. I think it needs valve adjustments, or it may need a new head gasket. The engine runs, and cruises perfectly at highway speeds, it is just a little sluggish below 3000 RPM.

Compression test numbers were 150-125-130-125.

I am in an apartment now though, and can't do the work in my parking lot, and don't really want to sink even more money into the truck than I already have. The truck is completely built for some pretty serious off-roading, it just needs a little more TLC than I can/want to give it (doesn't help that I recently picked up an Land Rover LR3 which I am now obsessed with...)

If you know anything about off road rigs, then you know the list of everything on this truck is a steal, even if you ended up doing a V6 swap. Hell, the tires are worth 800 alone now that I think about it....Losing my *** on this one, but the longer it sits within eye sight of my GF, the more pissed she gets that I spent so much $ on it.

Again, truck runs and drives, and can be used as is as a daily driver, just needs valves or head gasket to make it run perfect at low RPMS. Just came take a look and drive it and you'll see.

$3500












 
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#2 ·
Forgot to add in, it's the 2.6 engine.

I also have a passenger front door hing set from JLEMMOND that comes with the truck. The front passenger door has about a 1/8" droop right now. Still closes and opens fine, it just kind of drives me crazy to look at.

Guys, let me know if I am off base with my price here too.

Thanks.
 
#5 ·
Unfortunately you probably will not recoup your money invested in your Trooper, considering that it needs an engine rebuild.

What you need is a rebuilt long=block motor and a friend who will loan you their driveway for 48 hours or less to do the swap.

As far as the politics of girlfriends hating your investing in your trooper instead of wheterver she thinks you should have spent in on, I suggest you use cold calculated logic that cannot be refuted. Goes like this here:

"Honey, I'm losing my *** on this Trooper because no one will buy it for 3k with a blown motor, so here's what I'm going to do since I put a lot of time, effort and money into it. I'm going to put a new motor into it, and we'll get my money's worth having a reliable 4x4 to go camping and getting around in during the winter. For only another $3k at most, our trooper can do everything a $40,000 Jeep can do. "

Where there is a will there is a way.
 
#6 ·
I guess I am not being clear enough on here, and maybe that is my fault. The truck doesn't have a blown motor. The compression numbers aren't at the threshold for a rebuild (I know that different numbers per cylinder mean there is an issue).

The truck runs. The truck drives. The truck will do 65 on the highway no sweat. The truck is great for running around town and playing off road. It is one of those things that you just have to drive to see what I mean. For all I know, it could just be the way a 4 cycl feels hauling around such a big *** frame.

Started the project to kill some time after I left the military, but am way more interested in building out my LR3 at this point.

I know I am losing money, but there is zero use in keeping a truck that I will never drive now that I have the LR3.
 
#7 ·
Comp #'s @ 125 indicate the motor is due for a rebuild, period. Either worn rings, valves/valve seats, or both. I said "blown" because the motor is obviously compromised and needs rebuilding, regardless if it drives or not.

That's just the way it is.
 
#8 ·
You could always do a valve adjustment and see if that helps the comp numbers. I'm in the area and keeping my eye out for a nice one, but looking for more of a creampuff driver than a wheeler.
 
#9 ·
I genuinely wish you luck in getting close to what you are asking but the harsh reality is that first gen troopers that need nothing rarely go for close to your asking price. With those compression numbers, at the very least it probably needs the head looked at and a new gasket. I understand that it is running and driving, but the first gen I had would blow head gaskets and still run and drive and so has most of everyone else's. The 2.6/2.3 engines are just notorious for head gasket failures. Sorry man, it is a really nice looking truck though.
 
#10 ·
SOLD

For asking price.

Thanks for all the unsolicited advice. For future postings, while the bump is nice, this isn't a forum post, it is an ad. If someone on here is trying to sell something, why continue to reply with you personal opinions or advice on what to do with the truck?
 
#11 ·
Unsolicited...ok.... You described some engine issues and what you considered to be possible solutions, and then also told people to chime in if they thought your price was off base. People responded about the engine issues and/or the price. Glad you got it what you wanted out of it.
 
#12 ·
Congrats!
 
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