That intermittent fuel pump problem is still haunting me. I replaced the original ignition switch a while back and it helped... only did it every few weeks. The pump would just not come on... pull over and prime with the keyed switch, start up and go till the bowl runs dry again. It'd do that 4 or 5 times and then kick in.
Tuesday night I was getting ready for a shower before bed, brushing my teeth and started the shower running. Got in the shower and the water was still cold... yup, water heater was dead. It's a Whirlpool 40 gallon natural gas with the Honeywell gas valve. Jacked with it till about 1am and determined the thermocouple was bad. And the thermocouple used with the Honeywell/Whirlpool combo is an oddball. Nobody local carries anything like that. And I couldn't find a part number for it either. left a voicemail for the boss saying I wouldn't be in the next day, heated up some water on the stove and got a quick spongebath then went to bed.
In the morning I pulled the burner assembly out, looked online for a while and still couldn't find a thermocouple. Took the burner to a few appliance parts stores and, of course, as soon as they saw the assembly they'd stop me before I even got to the counter... Nope, we don't carry Whirlpool parts.
so.... Even if I can find a part number... wait a week for it to come in... nope. We're not living in the Zombie Apocalypse yet. My wife is NOT going to take sponge baths for a week. (actually we'd be getting a hotel room for a week... ) So I bought a new water heater. One WITHOUT the Honeywell gas valve.
I don't know how old the other water heater was. Not ancient... rest of it looked to be in decent shape. So I put it up on Craigslist explaining what was wrong with it, asked $100 or trade for tools or firewood. I figured some slum lord would take it as a spare for a rent house. Got a reply offering firewood Thursday night, arranged a meet Friday morning. Take off with the water heater in the back of the truck and it dies a block later. Prime carb, take off, dies a block later... and so on. And it WOULD NOT kick in. Took a half hour to make it 1 mile. text the guy and told him I'd be a minute. I was 2 miles from him and needed to splice a couple of wires together to get back on the road. ..... he said he was packing up and going home, maybe later or when it warms up... I bypassed the oil pressure switch and wired the pump relay trigger straight to the ignition switch. Fired right up and ran great. Yes, must revisit fuel pump wiring again.
AND... while I was posting crap on Craigslist... I'd been looking for a C6 transmission with the FE bolt pattern to run behind the 390 I haven't even rebuilt yet... mostly just getting a sense of availability and cost. A lot harder to find than the 700R4 was. Closest one I found was a core in Plano TX. Trans shops here want $750 to rebuild a C6... Or pay $550 plus with shipping from an ebay salvage yard. I have no faith in salvage yard warranties, and not when shipping is involved in the claim..
I posted an ad in the wanted section, ISO a working C6 or FMX trans for an FE. Could also use a standard trans but would also need other parts off the donor vehicle, I have no clutch pedal assembly or linkages. (some dummy sold the clutch pedal assembly)
Well, yesterday evening I got a hit. Local. 1971 F250, 360 and 4 speed. $500. he bought it a couple of months ago, now it's cold and he doesn't wanna mess with it. he was told it ran when parked 9 months ago. hmmm...
2004 Pontiac Grand Prix GTP
1990 Trooper 2.8 V6 Auto (Wrecked... sent to the crusher)
1993 Shortbed, regular cab Z71 (Donated to step-son #2)(deceased, parted out)(Forums for GM and fullsize 4X4s suck... so I'm still hanging out here)
1965 Ford Fairlane 500 Sports Coupe 289 & 4 speed (some assembly required)
1968 Kaiser M715, Chevy 350/700r4, stock NP200 and 5.87 gears... prepping for Ford 390/T-18/divorced NP205 transplant.. .just because.