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2000 Rodeo Lift

12K views 76 replies 9 participants last post by  Rodeo814 
#1 ·
Hey guys. First of all thanks for all the info Ive read so far but the members. I have a 2000 Rodeo 4WD 3.2 V6. I am interested in lifting the truck. I would do the install at my dads house where all my tools are located. I live in Downtown Los Angeles and park my truck in a parking lot so I have no room to work on it or keep my tools. This is a everyday driver and my weekend warrior. I have been on only two trails here in So Cal. Cleghorn Train as well a trail in Big Bear yesterday. I would like a little more clearance as I have scrapped the bottom on rocks, shrubs and dirty already. Also my spare tire under the truck revealed that that has also hit a few rocks and dirt mounds. What do you guys recommend for the spare tire issue? I have recently installed the Yakima Road Warrior roof basket. I could put the tire there for now right? What do you recommend to hold it down? Ok, back to the lift. I know there is a lot changes when doing this. So many questions come to mind when exploring the option to lift. Was looking at the budget lift from Indy. From what I understand this means cranking the T bars and installing the kit. I hear of CV boots ripping and the geometric changes that occur when lifting.

Here are my stats:
2000 Rodeo 4WD (Stock)
Currently running 255/70/16
Yakima Road warrior on roof.
Everyday driver. (so I have the lift, ride & tires to be as comfy as can be)
Would trim if I had to just depends.
Want more clearance nothing too crazy.
Would rather spend the extra dollar on stuff and not use it than not spend enough and not have it when I need it.

So here are my questions:
Should I be looking at tires of lift first? I want an aggressive look (tires) but want something that the pavement won't eat up too fast.
Besides the basic lift, what else should I look into changing? HD T bars? Upgraded shocks? Sway bar? etc..
Where is the most practical place to mount the spare?

Thank you in advance for the help.
 
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#2 ·
You could read through my build thread. There are not alot of options for lifts but they wont break the bank. As for tires your noise and price threshold will limit what you can get. A winch or locker would be good if your going out alone. And as for your spare, get a rear door from a rodeo sport or amigo it has the spare holder on it.
 
#3 ·
I'll check your thread out sir. Thank you.

For the rear door, are to speaking of the kind that swings or is mounted to the door?

A winch sounds really good.

Thanks for the response.
 
#4 ·
The rodeo sport or amigo rear door has the tire holder on the door itself. It will safety hold a 33" tire, may block alot of the window but does work. Otherwise you can get a rear bumper set up that has the swing out carrier from Joe Darlington off road. But its kinda pricey.
 
#5 ·
Hmm ok. I will look into that. I do like the Wilco Hitchgate Carrier. Looks solid but yeah, its kinda of pricey.
 
#6 ·
I've never heard of Wilco, but after looking at them that looks like a great product aswell. Thanks for pointing them out.
 
#7 ·
Minimum:
Extended brake lines (or bracket for rear axle mounting)
Shocks
Springs

Optional (but nice to have):
HD torsion bars
Greaseable swaybar bushings
Better rear links

Also, you may find worn bushings/joints here and there that could be replaced.
 
#8 ·
walsnart said:
Minimum:
Extended brake lines (or bracket for rear axle mounting)
Shocks
Springs

Optional (but nice to have):
HD torsion bars
Greaseable swaybar bushings
Better rear links

Also, you may find worn bushings/joints here and there that could be replaced.
Thank you sir. That info is what I was looking for. Can't wait to get some more clearance and see how the ride adjusts to the lift. Thank you guys!
 
#9 ·
Link to my 2000 Passport with OME 912, HD t-bar, 265/75-16 tires. With a couple mild looking pictures for ref. The flex picture doesn't look like much, but the suspension is quite flexed with 1 rear stuffed way into and the other flexed out nicely, but hard to get a visual perspective. I've never had any issues with hitting the spare tire with off road driving, but my hitch helps protect it a bit. YEA...I've stuffed the rear hitch into a banks many times during turning around in tight places tho.

viewtopic.php?f=16&t=84698
 
#10 ·
Thanks a lot guys!! When I get back from my Portland trip later this month I will start the shopping.
 
#11 ·
So i've decided to go with the Indy http://www.independent4x.com/Isuzu-Amig ... _p_20.html lift for my rodeo. I like the fact that the shocks are adjustable. Being a everyday driver this seems like a good idea. Any comments on that guys? No going with hubs, I have a manual 4x4 button inside.

Is there anything in this buy that could be purchased elsewhere for a better price? i.e. torsion bars, rear HD links? I tried looking into but can't find much.

Also, any other upgrade suggestions or comments would be appreciated.

Thank you for your comments and suggestions so far.
 
#12 ·
They are the only place with torsion bars im aware of, you don't really need them unless your putting a winch bumper up front.

I got my Adj. HD lower links from Thorbros, they were much cheaper, but only come with poly ends not he HD heim joints like indys.

You will need to contact a fab shop or Joe darlington to get yourself a bent driver upper link to get the most out of your lift.

also, the manual hubs do help improve driveline drag and will help save your CV axles with the lift. Id go get some superwinches from amazon. They will also improve your MPGs and lighten the steering abit on the road when unlocked.
 
#13 ·
Are there videos or photos of any 2nd gen rodeos with the independent4x lift on it out there? Would love to see someone review of the lift and products after a few months.

Any help finding this would be great.
 
#14 ·
So before I go and buy the 3' lift from Indy I was wondering if theres anyway to get more than a 3' lift out of the rodeo. Still being my everyday driver I do not want to jeopardize ride quality too much. I know altering the ride with any lift will change the ride in one way or another but are there options to go higher? like maybe 5 inches? I don't see much of a difference in going 3 inches. Especially if the kit will be around 2.2K for the best kit Indy offers. I just feel like I would outgrow that 3 inches real quick.

Would def appreciate any feedback.

Is the 3inches that effective? I see people doing the 3inch Indy and a 3inch body lift. Is that recommended?

Would love to do a 5' suspension lift if possible.

Thanks in advance guys.
 
#15 ·
A 5 inch suspension lift would be way to much trouble up front with the ifs. Keep it simple. Crank the Tbars, get the OME springs, 235/85r16 AT tires and install some manual hubs. Does your truck have the G80 option? If not I'd recommend a rear locker. That setup should get you anywhere you want to go.

I also second the idea to source a rear door with a tire carrier.
 
#16 ·
Thanks Troop! G80 option? How do I find that out?

So you wouldn't recommend buying a 3' lift kit? Just crank, add new springs, new shocks and crank the bars? I need new shocks cause mine suck right now.
 
#17 ·
The G80 code will be printed on the ID plate in the engine bay. It a factory LSD. I'm not to sure what's included in the lift kit or if the brake line extension are necessary. Maybe someone with a second gen rodeo would know more. Rocky road outfitters has the best prices on OME springs and shocks if you buy the kit from them.
 
#18 ·
I'll check that ID plate out tomorrow. Thank you for the info.

I'm all about keeping it simple like you said. But I also would love to swap out anything I can while I'm taking a couple days off to complete the lift.

Just want a solid ride with more clearance. Went out in the snow and was rubbing the bottom on some dirt and rocks under the snow. Only needed the 4WD in a few spots. Had fun but the more I go out the more I want the lift this baby.
 
#19 ·
#20 ·
Once you lift more than about 2" or so, your CV joint boots' life will be measured in months. The manual hubs allow you to disconnect the front hubs so the front CV axles aren't constantly spinning and flexing the boots. Another solution is to lower the front differential, but it's only good for about 1.5" and it's a lot of work.

The lower links help put the rear suspension back into proper geometry. The joints also allow for better flex.
 
#21 ·
Again, thanks Gwana. You're helping me out all over the place lol. Thanks buddy. So out of those two packages the bigger package will help properly lift the vehicle while keeping the geometry as original as possible?

That seems like the better option to me now that I know how all that works.
 
#22 ·
Well, sort of: The rear links seem like overkill to me unless you're going for absolute flex and offroad capability (or your lower link bushings are already shot). And, like egagnon said up above, you can't take advantage of a good lift without getting a bent upper arm to clear the gas tank - which this kit does not include. I'm not sure what your plans are, but personally I wouldn't go that far unless I wanted a fairly dedicated trail truck or just had money to burn. The front torsion bars are stiffer than stock, and cranked stock bars are plenty stiff. I wouldn't change them unless I was putting on a winch or a heavy front bumper. The rest of the parts are available elsewhere a-la-cart, and you can achieve your lift for far less than $2200. I lifted my '98 Amigo - with the same exact suspension - about 2.5" for less than $400 including new rear springs, all 4 shocks, and manual hubs. I did not do links or swaybar bushings. The brake lines didn't need to be replaced, and the only special tool I needed was an angle grinder. IMHO, anything much higher than 2.5" puts the front suspension just about at its limit for downtravel and the ride just gets harsh. It's a limitation of the front suspension design.

And you do realize, that even if you get 3" of suspension lift and manage another 3" of body lift, you still probably won't fit any larger than 32" tires without trimming the front fenders? What are you hoping to end up with? I don't want to discourage you from doing what you want to do, but I don't want to see you drop $2200 and find out you can still only run stock tires.
 
#23 ·
Absolute flex would be great. I just sent Joe a message about the bent upper arm about how to get one from him.

I wouldn't say I have money to burn but once I get a good amount of knowledge about how all these components and see that it does serve a good purpose I wouldn't mind spending the money to have a better than average set up. BUT maybe now I can piece this kit together using this "kit" as a base and ordering all the items separately if the total amount is less than the Indy price like you said. I am really in no hurry to throw my money out the window lol.

After the lift I def want to install a winch on the bumper. So I think the HD torsion bars are a good idea for me. And for the rear was thinking about the OME 919 springs. Add the tire back there and camping gear etc.

I am willing to do some trimming if needed. I am really not sure what size of tire I will go with at the moment. I do like the new BFG AT T/A K02 tires. And maybe some pro comp 51 series wheels.

In the end I would like to achieve a 3" lift over stock suspension. Spare on back tailgate. Winch upfront. Larger tires. No rubbing. And spending a little more on suspension parts/extras to ensure the ride quality isn't that bad.

I am super new to everything but after doing some research you guys have really helped me out with all of this. I appreciate that. I just want to have fun, be able to install most of it myself and diagnose and fix any issues I have along the way.
 
#24 ·
This is on my Rodeo. Check CALMINI.com It's a 3"lift #ip2039 $994.95. They are out of Ca. I've had good luck with it. Been on my Rodeo for12 yrs. Has all you need in kit except manual hubs. Ck out! :D
 
#25 ·
Sorry to be take this topic off topic, but I have auto hubs on my Trooper. I'm going to do a jeep coil swap and T bar crank. Would it be recommended to get manual hubs? And now, why? What is the effect of both manual and auto on the vehicle. And what brand? Aisin has manual hubs. Recommend those? Thanks-Will
 
#26 ·
totten said:
This is on my Rodeo. Check CALMINI.com It's a 3"lift #ip2039 $994.95. They are out of Ca. I've had good luck with it. Been on my Rodeo for12 yrs. Has all you need in kit except manual hubs. Ck out! :D
Yeah man I've seen that lift and liked it too. But I heard lots of horror stories about their customer service and waiting a long time to receive their products. I called a couple months back and they said that kit goes into production when it's paid for. They also said it's a two week turn around time but I've head of preppie waiting a lot longer. Humm I just don't know which way to go lol. I hear nothing but good things about Indy.
 
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