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2001 Trooper Auto 4L30E to Manual AR5 w/TOD swap

74K views 142 replies 23 participants last post by  flydex28 
#1 · (Edited by Moderator)
Well after a couple of years of owning the Trooper the auto transmission has started to go. So instead of having it replaced at a cost of $4,000, (local shop), I decided to swap it to the AR5 attached to the TOD transfer case instead.

I want to make this thread a detailed guide of sorts with links to other threads, videos, and lots of photos so that anyone else that wants to do this swap can reference this and have some of the guesswork taken out or at least get some ideas. Hopefully, it will help someone with their swap. I will keep updating this thread until I'm completely done.

Here is a list of all the parts needed for the swap:
AR5 transmission
OEM clutch kit
OEM Flywheel bolts
OEM Pressure plate bolts
OEM Rear main seal
Clutch pedal assembly (99 Trooper)
OEM flywheel (used/resurfaced)
OEM brake/clutch pedal pads
OEM clutch hard line and softline
Center console
OEM master cylinder
OEM slave cylinder
2002 trooper Manual ECU
New rubber h/p fuel lines (rear lines are too short if using the Manual hard fuel lines)

Various Nuts & Bolts you may need to buy:
Transmission:.....one - 80mm (m12x1.25)
Transmission:.....three - 45mm (m12x1.75)
Dust Shields:......two - 45mm (6mm x 1.0) and one 6mm nut.
Slave Cylinder:...two - 30mm (10mm x 1.5)
Clutch Pedal Bracket:...two - 8mm x 1.25 nuts w/ washers

I also bought a few tools for the job as well. I picked up a clutch alignment tool, 17mm 0* offset wrench, clutch bleeder, and a floor jack because I was always having to borrow one from someone.
I was trying to shoot for around $1,500 dollars but I exceeded that a little bit...closer to $2,000. I can put my costs up later if anyone wants them.
I started working on it last week and have been taking pictures, so hopefully, I can get those posted if Photobucket wants to cooperate with me.

Helpful Links:
VX 5 Speed Swap
https://forum.planetisuzoo.com/viewtopi ... speed+swap
Has anyone put an AR5 in a 3.2 Trooper?
https://forum.planetisuzoo.com/viewtopi ... 22&t=72724
John's Auto to Manual MUA5 Transmission Swap
https://forum.planetisuzoo.com/viewtopi ... 22&t=49934
Hatfield's 2000 Trooper Build
https://forum.planetisuzoo.com/viewtopi ... 1&start=50
Christmas in July! Zaphod's VX Manual Swap Thread
https://www.planetisuzoo.com/viewtopic. ... 7#p5449247
Cruise Contol after Swap
Cruise Control after swap
Car-Part.com
Car-Part.com--Used Auto Parts Market

Videos:
Servicing Quick Connect / Quick Disconnect Pull Type Clutches

Bleeding a clutch by blocking the slave cylinder
 
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#52 ·
Sweet, thanks for posting that. I ended up making a rough drawing on notebook paper of both the auto and manual bolt patterns to compare side by side before I bought the New bolts and installed the transmission.
 
#54 ·
After reattaching the shifter and installing the rear drive line I swapped out the ECU. Pretty easy process, just unscrew the two 7mm bolts holding the wire connectors to it and swap the ECU's. Make sure you also put the rubber gaskets back onto the red and blue connectors if they come out with the ECU. Don't try to install them to the ECU itself because that is pretty much impossible... which I figured out after like 10 minutes of trying to fit them on there. Instead use a screw driver and gently slip them around the connectors until they bottom out. Then attach the connectors to the ECU...should be labeled "RED" and "BLUE" and tighten the nut down to 70 inch pounds.

Pull the rubber gasket off the old Auto ECU and reinstall on the ECU connectors:
 

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#55 ·
Next I took care off the 3 transmission dust shields. I just reused all three dust shields from the auto. For the bottom dust shield (access panel), I just cut the old auto access panel cover and flattened it to use on the AR5 and hit it with some black spray paint. It fit almost perfect, but there were a couple small gaps so I used some Permatex Ultra Black to make a gasket and seal it up and reused the old access panel bolts. For the driver side dust shield that covers the opening behind the starter you have to drill a hole in the old dust shield so that it matches up to the AR5. Just install it temporarily, mark it, then drill the hole and install. You will need to buy two 40 or 45mm bolts and a 6mm nut, one for the driver side and one for the passenger side dust shields. The bolt size is 6mm x 1.0. The passenger side dust shield doesn't need to be modified at all; the bolt hole and nut is already there for you.
 

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#56 ·
Next I installed my new rubber fuel lines (HP fuel injection line) and the front suspension crossmember. I then snapped the throwout bearing into place. Just pull the fork backward until you hear it click into place... doesn't take much. I also installed the slave cylinder. Make sure you grease the tip of the push rod before installing it. For the slave cylinder you will need to either cut and reuse the two smaller 14mm transmission bolts off the auto that weren't reused on the AR5, or go buy 2 new bolts. I went and bought two new bolts... they are 10mm x 1.5 (30mm long). Then after that I installed the front drive line. I used a little loctite and all the driveline bolts front and rear, and they all get torqued to 46 ft lb.
Here is a really good video that talks about Isuzu pull style clutches and how to install the throwout bearing correctly:
 
#57 ·
Can anyone tell me if you are supposed to remove the old gasket that is pressed into the exhaust manifold. I don't see how you would get it out. The one on the downpipe has a snap ring type spring holding it in place.
 
#60 · (Edited by Moderator)
Its been awhile but I pretty much got everything finished. I reconnected the wire harness, using the old brackets and connectors when I could and several zip ties. There is also the cable that comes off the ignition switch that needs to be zip tied as well. I used two zip ties on this...one around the cable between the two nuts, and then the other goes thru the first zip tie and then thru the hole in the plastic connector at the end of the cable pulled tight enough to keep the cable from pushing out. I also didn't think to attach the vent line coming off the transfer case before I installed the transmission so I just attached the hose and looped it around the shifters and then zip tied it behind the shifter under the shift boot. I can get to it really easy later if I want to extend it.

I then reinstalled the drivers side exhaust. I used the Fel-Pro gasket with some copper exhaust sealant around it to hold it in place while I installed it. Little tip... do this before installing the crossmember if you can. I ended up having to remove the rear crossmember again and because you can't get the exhaust pipe in place with it there. I also had to remove the two 12mm muffler hanger bolts and push that slightly back as well. I bought two new gaskets for the rear flanges as well. One of them fit good but the other side was two big and the bolt hole were in the wrong spot so I just notched out the un-needed material without cutting into the crush part of it. I tried to find the right gasket but none of the parts store here could help me. Not even the muffler shop had it. Whatever..it works.

Next I attached the reverse lights with a connector I made using a two prong connector salvaged from the old auto shifter assembly. The two black wires coming off the transmission, tie into the wires from the old RMS connector and it does not matter which wire you connect to the other.

I filled the transmission with Valvoline 5w-30 and the TOD unit with Castrol Transmax Import Multi-Vehicle ATF fluid, and while I was at it changed the engine oil and filter as well.

Last I installed the front heat shield around the wire harness and then installed the new heat shield I made for the slave cylinder. The slave cylinder shield will need to be installed after you bleed the clutch.

Ignition cable zip tied:
0927161648-640x480.jpg


Here is the exhaust gasket I had to modify to make fit:
0923161331a-640x480.jpg


Front heat shield. You have to make a little bracket like this to make it fit:
1005161511-640x480.jpg


Front heat shield installed:
1005161537~2~2-640x479.jpg


Slave cylinder heat shield I made. I ended up rounding those corners off afterwards:
1009161458-640x480.jpg
 

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#61 ·
So I got the truck fired up and noticed a few things. 1: All the TOD lights were on...Took me a second to realize why. I had the TOD shifter in the Low position so that was an easy fix. 2: the ABS light was on. But that is normal.. I need to replace or get the module fixed. 3: This is the one I'm really wondering about...the Winter Drive light is on. I cant figure out how to turn it off. Now whenever I start the truck, it is off but then slowly starts getting brighter as the truck warms up until it is fully on. What in the heck would cause that? The "L" is also illuminated, but I think that is normal.
 

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#62 ·
OK so I'm starting to get really frustrated... On top of not being able to get the clutch bled...I was trying to figure out why the Winter Drive light keeps slowly coming on and now the gauge cluster lights don't work. I had cut off the connector that went to the little green light that used to be in the A/T shift lever to use for my reverse lights. Well in my attempt to figure out why the winter light was on I tried hooking the light back up to those two wires..G/R and R/G, and when that didn't work, my dumbass touched the two wires together which caused the lights to flicker and then turn off completely. I can't figure out if I toasted something. I tested all the little fuses for continuity that I could find. I am looking at the wiring diagram but I guess I don't understand what I'm looking at. It looks like most of the wires on the diagram say G/R or R/G. Can someone steer me to the likely culprit? (fuse or relay???) It looks like basically its all the lights in the buttons on the dash and console and Speedo and tach that you can adjust with the brightness dial.
 
#63 ·
The Winter Drive lamp is controlled by the PCM, since you installed a manual trans version it must be controlling the lamp somehow. If you clip the lamp control wire at the PCM that will disable it. Be absolutely sure you clip the correct wire. Also check the "Meter" fuse.
Click on image to expand
 

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#64 ·
Thanks Buster, I'll check it out. I also got the dash and console lights figured out. I killed the dimmer switch when I touched the wires together. I found a replacement dimmer switch at the salvage yard and also re-hooked up the little light I had clipped off. Lights are working again. I'll figure out the Winter drive light after I get the clutch bled.
 
#65 ·
Well still no luck on getting the clutch bled. We bled the crap out of it the other day but it was still really rough especially in 1st and reverse gears and even grinding a little when shifting into 4lo. I figured there was air trapped in the line still, so today I re routed my clutch line so that it doesn't loop around any more. The line now goes toward the front of the truck and then turns around to follow the stock path. Basically it is all downhill now. Bled it a bunch more using a few different methods.. gravity method, pumping the pedal, removing the slave cylinder and pumping the slave push rod. After that it was still rough going into gear so I adjusted the clutch pedal out almost all the way which seemed to help a little but still rough.

Is the AR5 just really rough to go into gear? Also...the clutch pedal bracket I'm using is from a '93..does anyone know if that would make a difference...it shouldn't, I'm just guessing now. It bolted right up but would the pedal swing be different; maybe I just cant adjust it out enough?
 
#66 ·
I wish I could get this clutch bled. We tried again the last two days and still cannot get it. We did get more air out by removing the slave cylinder and pushing the piston all the way in and then holding it there with a c-clamp while we bled it numerous times (blocking the slave). We checked the pedal while the slave cylinder was "blocked" and could still move it a couple inches which leads me to believe there is still air trapped in the master cylinder. However I cannot figure out how to get it out of there. I borrowed a Motive pressure bleeder but the universal cap is way too big to attach to the master cylinder reservoir. I tried unbolting the master thinking I could maybe wiggle it out of there but you cant get it out because the brakes hard lines are in the way. We also went down and bought a Mityvac... that didn't work because it couldn't get a good seal on the bleeder valve with the hoses that come with it. I tried using fish tank tubing instead but that collapsed with the suction and also leaked. So I either need to figure out how to get a better seal on the clear hose at the bleeder valve for the Mityvac or how to make some kind of smaller cap for the power bleeder and a way to hold it in place.
I also tried reverse bleeding through the bleeder valve, but the syringe I was using was a piece of junk and leaked pretty bad. Anybody have any ideas???

Here is a link to the video discussing blocking the slave cylinder:
 
#67 ·
OK SUCCESS!!!...I think. I was able to acquire the clutch hard line with the soft line, clutch pedal assembly, slave heat shield, slave, and master from a 99 Trooper.
I previously installed the pedal assembly from the 93 Trooper, but to eliminate all possibilities I removed that one and installed the one from the 99. I'm pretty sure I didn't need to since they looked identical.. but hey this project has gone on long enough.

The 4 foot long flexible clutch line made from dot rubber brake line I had made seems to have been the problem. The very same line that the hydraulic shop swore would not be an issue and would work just as good as the stainless line would. Anyway we removed the flexible line and installed the OEM hard line and bled it the traditional way and guess what...half way thru the process we had twice the pedal pressure as before. What do you know. We bled some more until we didn't see anymore air and tightened it up. I should also mention that before I cracked the bleeder open I spread a little thread sealer around the outside of the bleeder valve to prevent air from working its way in past the threads, worked good.

After that I finally installed the center console and replaced my homemade slave cylinder heat shield with the OEM one. The wire harness for the Cruise Control Switch and the Neutral Safety Switch are already installed in my Trooper (they are bundled together and hanging below the dash) so all that is needed is to plug them in to the switches on the pedal. On mine though the neutral safety switch was bypassed at the old RMS connector but the cruise switch still gets plugged in.
 

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#68 ·
The clutch pedal pressure has a good firm feel now but it still is a little rough going into first gear. I have read this is normal with the AR-5 though and that switching to 5w-30 Mobile 1 or even possibly Redline really smoothens it out. I have the Valvoline 5w-30 in it right now, so maybe I will drive around with that for awhile to clean any old oil out of it and then at least switch to the Mobile 1. Redline is expensive!!
 
#69 · (Edited by Moderator)
I figured since I had them I would post these pictures from the FSM for hooking up the clutch neutral safety switch and the cruise control switch on the clutch pedal.

Cruise Contol wires: Blue wires.
1203161529-468x624.jpg

1228161635a-468x624.jpg


Clutch neutral switch: Black/White & Red/White wire.
1203161525-468x624.jpg
 

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#70 ·
Really nice work and pics. Trooper will be great when finished. I like the way Trooper sits with ome 919 and t-bar crank up. Super,wouldn't change it. :idea:
 
#71 ·
Thanks, I still need to test the cruise control out but it should work. I have been driving it for a couple weeks now and even got to use TOD as we got some snow here last week. Worked great.
 
#73 ·
superman27344 said:
Awesome work! Subscribed.
Thanks.
Well I tried out the cruise control this week and its a no go. When I press the cruise control button, the cruise main light comes on but when i press the cruise set button I get nothing. Not sure what that is all about. I'll have to try to figure it out.
Does anybody know if cruise control was standard on manual transmission Troopers? Maybe its a computer thing.
 
#75 ·
superman27344 said:
Mine is a 2000 5spd model and it has cruise.
Hey I hate to ask but can you see on yours if it is plugged in at the clutch pedal the same way. It should be, those plugs are different from each other and are not interchangeable. I have it the way the FSM shows it as well.
I'm starting to wonder if it has something to do with the fact that the neutral safety switch was bypassed. I wonder if that needs to be functioning for the cruise to work.
 
#76 ·
flydex28 said:
superman27344 said:
Mine is a 2000 5spd model and it has cruise.
Hey I hate to ask but can you see on yours if it is plugged in at the clutch pedal the same way. It should be, those plugs are different from each other and are not interchangeable. I have it the way the FSM shows it as well.
I'm starting to wonder if it has something to do with the fact that the neutral safety switch was bypassed. I wonder if that needs to be functioning for the cruise to work.
HI CHRIS, YES THE CLUTCH SW HAS TO BE OPEN CIRCUIT ONE THE ENG IS RUNNING , ON THE D RIVE BY WIRE SYSTEM, OTHER WISE THE CRUISE WILL SEE IT AS THE CLUTCH PEDAL DOWN AND WILL DISSENGAGE THAT CIRCUIT , IN OTHER WORDS IF THE CRUISE WERE SET AT SAY 60 MPH AND YOU PUSHED THE CLUTCH IN AND THE SW DID NOT SIGNAL THE CRUISE, THE ENG WOULD GO FULL THROTTLE , BUT ONLY FOR A FEW SEC,S THEN IT WOULD SHUT DOWN AS AN OVER SPEED ,
 
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