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FWC build

10K views 50 replies 9 participants last post by  squatch 
#1 ·
See what you've done Shaggy! :lol:

Anyway if you've been paying attention you know a while back I bought a Four Wheel Camper slide in pop up for my Spacecab.
viewtopic.php?f=21&t=81534

You probably also know that the multi year Spacecab project is still not finished. Though it's getting close.
viewtopic.php?f=15&t=56442

So in the meantime we've used the camper ala Jed Clampett on the boat trailer a few times as a travel trailer. Including a trip to URE. Once again the annual beach trip to OBX is coming up and we have decided to do the trailer thing again.
viewtopic.php?f=21&t=84064

Hopefully this will allow me the time to get some solar charging set up to run the refrigerator and such entirely on solar panels. And do some other mods to the camper for back country self supported use.

Before I get too far into this here is a link on RV solar for anyone that is interested in this stuff. It's a great read.
https://handybobsolar.wordpress.com/

If you've been reading the camping toys thread you know I've spent some money lately.
Things like a new solar Road Shower for the roof rack.


 
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#2 ·
And a Truck Fridge compressor fridge.








The camper is prewired for solar to the roof. It also has space for a battery or 2 and a system to charge that off the truck while driving along with a few interior lights.

I recently ordered the stuff to set up a self contained solar system to run this stuff. Long term plans for the truck and camper don't have much to do with campgrounds that have shore power. The campground at the beach doesn't either but has plenty of sun. I'm going to fill in the rest for now with a cut and past from my build on the camper forum.
 
#3 ·
Time for an update. Last night we made an important decision. Our annual beach trip is coming soon and the Black Beans truck project is lagging some as usual. Several other things have come up as they always do. So to avoid the bums rush we have decided to put the camper back on the boat trailer and once again go Jed Clamplett. It actually works quite well that way. Especially when it will be parked for a couple of weeks. This will allow me to concentrate on getting the solar electric set up for the camper.

Some nice things came in today. Like 3 solar panels.

2) of these 60 watt panels which will likely be made into a portable charge unit.



1) 160 watt mono panel



Add to that the entire Bogart Trimetric and SC2030 package with 500 amp shunt and battery temp sensor.



http://www.bogartengineering.com/
 
#4 ·
My Eagle shell does not have the Yakima tracks. Being a cyclist I'm already heavily invested in rack stuff. Most of it the older rain gutter style. I also have 8 of the Yakima roof mount artificial rain gutters. I've talked with a couple of folks who have used these on their camper with no issues.

I've ID'ed 6 places along the 2 heavy beams in the roof where they intersect with like sized cross beams. About a foot from each end and in the center. This will allow me to mount 6 feet for 3 crossbars in the strongest spots on the roof. The roof rack will hold the 160 watt solar panel down the passenger side front 2 bars. and the solar shower down the outside of the drivers side forward. This should prevent the vents from shading the panel. It should also allow room to occasionally carry my solo canoe. It also keeps the shower tent forward away from the furnace vent in the rear.

This is the mount style I'll use. The cross bars I have for Yakima are too short so I'll probably get 3 aluminum longer bars to save some weight. I've used these style mounts on quite a few truck caps with no issues over the years. I don't intend to get stupid with weight up there for sure. They will be bolted through the roof and sealed with a Sikaflex type sealant.



I need to order some marine grade cabling, connectors, and other small parts for the wiring. Then make decisions on just where to mount the electrical stuff. I also intend to mount an outboard electrical connector on the drivers side rear under the edge of the camper. This will give me a place to plug in the portable panels either in addition to the main panel or instead of. The roof stuff will be easily removable with these mount should the need arise. But also lockable.
 
#7 ·
Well I'm sorta getting started on the build. I got the camper up from the back yard and in the drive. Washed it good yesterday/ The roof was filthy after being down under the trees.

I pulled all the loose stuff out of the interior to make room for moving stuff around and working.

I found the junction box in the ceiling for the solar stuff and everything else.

1st I had to pop loose the inside lifting struts. Then remove 6 screws to drop the front lifting board.




Inside is a ground buss bar. This verifies they use the frame for ground like most cars. Looks like FWC forgot to tighten one of the mounting screws. I hope that's all they missed. The 2 yellow crimp connectors are for the solar panel back to the electrical area under the side ledge.


I think I've figured out where to mount the rack pads on the roof. Blue tape in 2nd pic marks the center bar location. Front and rear roof rack bars will be about 45" either way from this. Roof vents will be between the bars. The bars should be pretty much centered with the windows in the canvas. Which will offset the entire rack system rearward just a bit.


I had to order a few more small parts for the wiring. But they should be here Wed. In the meantime I'll work on mounting the rack feet on the roof and the solar panel.

Now if we could just get the heat out of the stupid range. Temps high 90's and humidity over 75%. Not much fun for working outside.
 
#8 ·
I made some real progress. The Yakima top loaders have been installed. Trying to get the spacing right for these was quite trying. Too many things in the way like interior lights and roof vents and maintaining clearance on the inside for for the folded up end walls when the roof is closed. I ended up with a wider spacing between the front and center racks than between the center and rear racks. But that's fine. It'll just look a little asymmetrical.

So once I figured out where all the brackets were going to mount I marked the locations on the inside so I could use the ceiling strips as a drill guide.


I drilled pilot holes and then rechecked the spacing on the outside.


Once that was done I used the proper bit and opened up the holes. Then I loosely bolted all the brackets in place for yet another check.


Regular nuts for the test fit. I cut 1/4" off the bolts with a cutoff wheel in a Dremel. Then used Nylock nuts for the final install. Tightened to just snug. I didn't want to crush or damage the beam in the roof.


I then masked around the brackets and removed them.


The area was wiped down with solvent as was the brackets. I want the caulk to stick and I don't want leaks or to do this job again. I'm using a urethane caulk that is similar to Sikaflex. Not only will it seal but it will glue the brackets to the roof. All the brackets were bolted in place with Marine grade stainless steel hardware. The bolts are not a high grade bolt. Probably around grade 2 or 3. But I figure that's enough considering I'm bolting to a roof beam that not much more than a beer can covered in tin foil. Other than the solar shower and the solar panel I don't plan to carry much more than a light canoe occasionally. That's another reason for using 3 bars. To spread the weight over the roof. The bars will also give me a place to lash a tarp for an awning of needed.

Tan caulk because like so much else I'm trying to make use of stuff I already have on hand.


Just to be sure about leaks.


Installed.


 
#9 ·
I found this when I brought the camper up from the backyard. Some critter has been gnawing on it. This part of the camper will get a couple of coats of bedliner soon anyway.


The electrical stuff is hidden underneath this bench in the shell models.


Fuse box, battery separator, loose wiring for the solar panel, and the long wire goes forward to connect to the truck battery. I figure I'll probably mount the solar charger controller here as well.


I'll let the caulk on the roof mounts cure for a couple of days before attaching racks. Then on to the solar stuff. I think I'm going to run up and pick up my group 31 deep cycle storage battery in a while.
 
#10 ·
Now that's a Battery!


Compared to the box the old group 24 used to sit in.


110 amp hours which is about the same as both of my group 34 Optima Blue Tops combined. But about 1/3 less weight than both of them. This battery is a Group 31 Sealed Lead Acid. It's a true Deep cycle storage battery. Not a hybrid like the Optima AGMs. It should be perfect for a solar system.
 
#11 ·
Hey I've got a great idea. How about taking a 1/2" drill and a hole saw to the nice new 1 piece roof of the camper! :shock:


So I did! to make a penetration for the solar panel cables.


I haven't been impressed with most of the options for capping or sealing these holes. Nor did I like the idea of a cheesy 2 pin SAE connector up there. So I decided to use a Marine bilge pump thru hull fitting. I test fit the cable through the fitting 1st to be sure it would work. I also have a couple of spares should it break.


Like the Yakima top loaders it was sealed with urethane caulk.




Now I'm done drilling holes in the roof and can vacuum out the metal shavings from inside the camper. Then on to setting up the battery mounting and solar charging stuff. Along with wiring upgrades.
 
#12 ·
Yours and Shaggy's attention to detail is impressive.

I like the bilge pump fitting.
 
#13 ·
Thanks Von. I'm not doing anything near as extensive as Shaggy. Just some Glamping upgrades! :lol:

Today was a research day. Trying to get access to existing wiring. The camper is wired in typical RV fashion which is OK. But I want optimum performance from my charging stuff. So I'll upgrade some of the wiring to larger gauges to reduce voltage loss, add some circuit protection, and make it easier to service in the future if needed.

1st the stuff in the electronics box under the bench was installed before the faces were put on the cabinets. So I had to remove the cabinet face to be able to get to it.
A few screws and off it came.


Much better access. The loose wire is the solar cable from the roof and to the battery box. I checked the model and serial# on the battery separator. It appears mine is NOT part of the recall. :D


This is the cable that goes to the truck for battery charging while driving. it will be upgraded to 6 gauge.
And I'll add a pair of 8 gauge cables to run camper power to the truck cab to run the fridge in the truck off the camper battery.


I think I can get to most of the wiring between the bench box and battery box through the furnace vent. I'll remove the face of that cabinet if I have to but would prefer not. But some of the wiring goes through the propane box. I removed the face of the lower cabinet to access it.




Of course I'll need materials for this upgrade. 6/2 marine cable from truck battery to camper battery. 8/2 marine cable for fridge wiring to truck and for building a portable solar suitcase from my 2 60 watt panels. 16/2 cable just to have on hand for station wiring if needed. Fuse holders in 8 +12 gauge for solar panel wiring.


Lot's of different Anderson Powerpole SB50 connectors. Red for truck power cable. Orange for portable solar. Blue for fridge wiring to truck and into the camper compartment. I intend to get rid of the flaky lighter plug connection.
Plus 2 Marine 50 amp switchable circuit breakers. To be mounted at each battery. These will serve as battery switches and breakers. Also dust boots and covers for any exposed Powerpole connectors.


10' 10 gauge MC4 extension cables for the roof mounted solar panel. I have the MC$ wrenches as well.


Next is to inventory ring terminals and pick up any I don't have along with some more heat shrink tubing and Liquid Electrical Tape. And then lay out the locations of the components and start wiring and terminating.
 
#14 ·
This thread has been a little neglected. I kinda got interrupted by blowing up my truck and having to buy a new/used one. But I've been working on the camper when I can. I've upgraded wiring gauges where I could without ripping out all the factory stuff. I wish the factory solar panel cabling to the roof was bigger but too much work to upgrade that right now. I did manage to cut 2 or 3 feet in length of that cable by putting the charge controller in the battery cabinet rather than under the bench. This also gets the charger controller very close to the battery.

I had to remove the faces off all cabinets on the drivers side. And remove the furnace to get to the wiring runs.


All holes like this had to be doubled for the new wiring. I had to get a little creative here and there. Not much room to work.
This is the hole the truck battery wiring goes through.


When I removed the old truck charging cable I found this. A spliced cable with + to - and - to +. Scary stuff!


I upgraded that cable to 6 gauge marine wire and installed an Anderson SB50 connector with boot and cover.


In addition to that I also ran 2 8 gauge wires back forward through a circuit breaker. One inside the camper and one towards the truck. To provide power to run the fridge in either place off the camper battery. I have an extra 12 volt power cord for the fridge that has a matching connector.


I added marine common posts for both the + and - cables to meet at. Safe way to join several cables.


I used some spare cedar 1"x1" to make a frame for the battery to sit in and adapted the hold down strap that came with the camper.


We often set a small led flashlight in the corner behind the stove. It's usually enough light to do what we need to do. I had a small led light left from my boat project so I decided to place that there. I had been thinking about this for a while.
Soldered and heat shrunk.




Finished product. The switch will be just inside the battery compartment door frame.
 
#15 ·
Important stuff to install in the battery compartment. Switchable 50 amp circuit breaker for the battery. There will be a matching one at the truck battery as well. 500 amp shunt. 30 amp circuit breaker for solar cables to controller. And the Bogart SC2030 charge controller for the solar panels.


Terminating a cable. I bought lots of different terminals for both 6 +8 gauge cable. Different sized holes for the various devices.

Heat shrink on trimmed cable.


Insulation trimmed to the correct length.


Terminal crimped on. I don't have enough hands to show the crimping process.


And heat shrink. I made a bunch of these in the last few days.


New cables routed and dressed in around the furnace compartment.


Nearly complete battery compartment. Still need to dress cables a little and add the battery cables and hook up the Bogart Trimetric battery monitor.


Battery goes direct to the 50 amp circuit breaker. The charge controller is hooked up to the un-protected side but has a fuse in line. All other loads on downstream side of breaker. 6 gauge from battery though breaker to common post under the bench. To separator then on to truck battery end. Same on Neg side but through the shunt for the Trimetric. No loads on battery side of shunt.

I ran the 12 gauge from the roof panel and an 8 gauge for portable panels to a 30 amp breaker then on to the charge controller. 8 gauge from controller to battery.


I hope to have the wiring done and the solar up and charging in a day or 2. Then on to mounting in the truck.
 
#16 ·
Nice. I should have gotten you to wire my truck. It works but it's a mess. You know how you start a job keeping everything neat and tidy and by the time you finish you're just stuffing wires wherever they'll fit? ... well, maybe you don't know.

Can't tell for sure in the pic, did you use one of those whack a mole crimpers where you whack the snot out of it with a BFH? I may rerun my batt cables and move solenoids around when I install the winch... might get one of these:
https://www.amazon.com/Hydraulic-Termin ... al+Crimper
 
#17 ·
#18 ·
Very nice attention to detail.
 
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#19 ·
Thanks HB.

Getting there. Nearly done with this part. I added a piece of scrap lumber as a divider. Now I can use part of this space for storage without interfering with wiring. I then notched the cabinet face for the fridge cable and reinstalled it. I'll put the access doors back on after the camper is mounted in the truck.





I added an 8 gauge cable for a portable solar panel.





Done in here for now and closed back up.



Box mounted for the Trimetric charge monitor and access holes drilled. This location is out of harms way and can be read and accessed from inside or out of the camper.







I still have to hook up the Trimetrc wiring and mount the solar panel on the roof. I hope to get that done today.
 
#20 ·
Looks like you are getting there. Are you going to be ready for the Outer Banks?
 
#21 ·
Of course! I reread some instructions yesterday and had to redo some of what I had done. (As usual). The charge controller is supposed to be mounted with the fin vertical for cooling. So I had to remount that and make up a couple of new cables. It actually ended up being a cleaner installation. Pics to come. Everything inside is now complete and I'll be mounting the panel shortly.
 
#22 ·
I had missed this thread completely! Nicely done!
 
#23 ·
Thanks!

As said earlier I had to relocate the charge controller to a vertical position for cooling. Of course I had to remake a couple of cables. The cabling dressed better after the change.








While I was closing up cabinets it was time to add a custom touch. Real deal antique appears to have never been used. Now easy to use from inside or out.


Roof racks mounted up.


I bolted a thin aluminum angle to each side of my 160 watt panel.


Then that was fastened to the roof racks with homemade U bolts.


Then the cabling was run.


I plugged in the fridge this am.


Last evening I moved the camper outside and raised the roof. Let's just say that was no fun without the internal gas springs installed. I needed the roof down to work in the garage. I needed that piece of wood that mounts the struts out of the way to access the junction box in the ceiling. No way to reattach the gas struts with the roof down. Some weight up there now. But all is back together now.

As of about 9am today all is working well. Early am the panel was putting out over 19 volts. Once I set the charge parameters on the battery the controller was feeding around 6 amps to the battery for a few minutes. I went to the L3 level and set the battery profiles in the Trimetric for charging. Then went back to L1 for just watching. Once the battery was charged flow slowed to float charge. Unless the fridge kicks on. Then you can watch the amp draw slowly change from a draw to a + number as the charger lets through enough solar power to cover the usage plus maintain the float charge. Highest draw I've seen from the Truck Fridge when kicking on was around 5 amps.
 
#24 ·
Nice work. It looks like you are getting there.
 
#25 ·
Just a little solar update. Where the camper is parked we lose solar charging about 4:30 pm as the sun hides behind the trees. The fridge is in the camper set at 34* on MAX setting. By 8am yesterday morning when I checked the charge had dropped to 88% and was already charging back up. By noon the battery was back to 100%. It was sunny all day. I saw a max charge of around 5+ amps.

This am is cloudy but I'm getting some charging. It will be interesting how long it takes to recover today.
 
#26 ·
Since I last posted we took our beach trip and I haven't been online much since. I have more stuff on backlog to write up. But at this point I'll just say the new truck carried the camper fine for almost 1,000 miles. I never touched a turnbuckle other than checking them.

We love the solar and the fridge. So nice to keep a lot of meat and such in the fridge and not have to fish anything out of water a week later. Mama Squatch is sold. Enough said?

Until a few days ago the fridge has been in the camper and running with food or drinks in it. I took it out to clean it a couple of days ago. Over almost a month we had maybe 3 days that were rainy and cloudy enough that we didn't get a full charge during the day. But we never got low enough on the battery to cause any issues. Never below 83% charge. Most days the battery is fully charged by mid day. I think we have the system sized well for our needs. I always have the option of adding on portable panels just by plugging into the camper. I have the panels but haven't built them into a portable unit yet. Haven't needed them so far.

At this point the Camper is self contained and runs on solar only. I haven't hooked up the truck wiring yet.

The bed cushion have to be addressed. These have to be replaced soon. Way too hard!

I'll post up some more pics and some mods as soon as I get a chance to deal with the pics.
 
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