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PPCLI Jims Isuzu ramblings

24K views 154 replies 11 participants last post by  PPCLI-JIM 
#1 · (Edited by Moderator)
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I've named my Trooper Christine because when I purchased it I knew it had problems. Some easy some more difficult to figure out. I thought I had electrical issues to the WW front and rear but after a few days both are working ! :shock: same with the rear defrost ? well that was easy theres another few issues that I have to tackle some underlying problems before i attack others . MY exhaust is toast , and theres some motor issues that could be related to it. One thing then another all in a logical order :wink: . But when I got it i knew it needed tires so over to the wrecking yard and found a set of 30 x 10 x 15 for the thing for 150 $ studded no less ! :blackeye: . with that immediate problem solved i thought I could slide on some other things I wanted to do . well that was a mistake.

well after that debacle I decided I need a WINCH 8 k at least .. being on a pension i decided to check the craigslists used loops kijiji etc and found one NIB for 200$Champion brand .
 

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#27 ·
No need for the blower i had thrown my back out, so i was only working in 15 minute bites . While the trooper is nice i really want to get the samurai done. Even though it will not be as comfy as Christine it will be way more fun off road.
 
#28 ·
Took her out and got her dirty. now to convert my go pro video right side up
 

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#29 ·
#30 · (Edited by Moderator)
well I warped a rotor while jack a$$ing around I had it figured out as to what one it was due to the thud of it when i drug the brakes a little . So heres how you change a front rotor on a gen 1 trooper 1988 version . loosen lug nuts Jack it up and put stand under it !!!!! never work on a vehicle without doing this for this sort of job they tend to get heavy on your foot :shock: . then take the wheel off. using a marker of some sort mark the position of the cover to the hub and spacer part. make sure your locking hub is in the FREE position or you will not be able to do this. using a 10 mm socket remove the outer cover bolts and pull straight out . once the internals are exposed you will be able to see the axle stub and retaining circlip. remove the circlip . with the circlip removed . remove outer spacer
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bolts with a 8 mm allen key
 

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#31 · (Edited by Moderator)
once that is off there is a retainer held in place by phillips screws remove them and the retainer.

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revealing the bearings
next is the 17 mm bolts that hold the hub to the rotor. its easiest if you have a friend / trained monkey step on the brake while you break these loose :idea:
the brake caliper comes off with the removal of the lower bolt which is a 14 mm. the caliper can now rotate up and then off the pin that holds the top of it in location. secure the caliper so you dont kink or break the hose
 

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#32 ·
remove the 2 bolts on the back that help retain the caliper and pads the remove that . under the cover you removed precviously there is a large nut that retains the bearings at a certain pressure not to tight or too loose . now you can remove the hub and rotor . exchange the rotor check your grease for the bearings install the rotor hub combo and start to reassemble . more grease for bearings as required , tension the hub again replace holder and retaining plate screws. . then comes the hub spacer and thats held in by the bolts and the circlip ensure that its all lined up according to your marks. then the cover torque too spec and replace tire done :p
 

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#33 ·
Well life has been 6 sorts of messed up and tomorrow i take my sami off to the brother in law for him to keep . Long story. Any way today i tucked into some reloading got 100 more .40 S&W done along with 45 30.06 before i called it a day . I still have some 300 Savage to do long with some more 30.06. I also have about 100 .308 win to convert to .300 Savage.. but My friend ho I shoot with is coming up from the coast this week so Ill be spending more time in the Room of Boom .

And onto other news did you know the stock lugnuts for the mags are priced at 10,00$ EACH ? wow went to CDN TIRE found 4 packs at 5 $ for the set. the reason I know this is I apparently failed to recheck the torque on them after replacing a rotor :drunken:
 
#34 ·
Well looks like i will have to create another thread as I just bought a 98 Isuzu rodeo . :roll: i will have to do a dvr side CV and replace windscreen. not to bad for 500$. ..man just when i was getting my 88 figured out :idea:

Man have I ever taken a lot onto my plate all of a sudden.
The Rodeo needs front CV's and a general tune up.
The Trooper I want to get rid of the EFI as its acting up on me all the time , and probably a fuel pump too.
Jetta full motor swap gonna get rid of the TDI due to the motor drinking more oil then fuel .
 
#35 ·
Well as stated in my Christine Build up thread i bought yet another Isuzu :roll: this one is a 97 Rodeo, it does have a few small issues , the front windscreen Will have to be replaced as I dont like the cracks running from one side to another :idea: , driver side front CV also is another Must be replaced item . I do want to drop the tank or saw a hole through the top so I can access the fuel pump easy, as I had to replace the filler neck as it had literally rusted out. Well for 500 $ Cdn i cannot complain . :shock:
 

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#36 ·
Heres a portion of the filler neck This was the half that was still attached to the body the other portion was hanging in the hoses.. . I should be happy once i get the few issues sorted CV joint is the first thing then Window. :|

next will be seeing about a mild lift to give more ground clearance maybe a 2 " . i will be seeing how the torsion bars are , and if i can gain the lift i want by that . 8)

Winch addition, I will also see about my winch on Christine being fitted on the Rodeo . then comes the other stuff :bigsmurf:
 
#37 ·
Holey smchmoley , is that thing rigged soft . I definitely have to improve that ride! well frankly im not impressed by the stock suspension setup as it is . :cry: The fronts relatively easy to solve try the free T-Bar crank then if that dont work the Sway Away T-Bar replacement . The back though has me scratching my head ,,, Me im a pensioned off military guy that definitely has a budget, what are the ways of getting a decent lift to match the front and make it more capable off road . i know it sounds kinda vague :roll: ... like whats the best car for me .. lol no im looking for about 2-3 " of lift and getting rid of the pavement princess soft suspension and basically tightening it up for travelling off the main roads and into the area like FSR's and none extreme dirt road any help lead ideas?
 
#38 ·
I too wanted a 3" lift, but when I talked to Independent4x they didnt recommend beyond 1.5" lift for my Rodeo because of cv joint angle. I did all the ball joint flip, etc, so I don't know if that still applies. But I would give them a call and ask their advice.

I was able to fit 33" tires, so I am happy with my smaller lift. I just added the new OME leafs which gave me approx 1.5" lift, then raised the front to bring it up level.
Adding a leaf in the back would give you a lift, as well as longer shackles. I just read a posting that talked about inexpensive options for adding a leaf; more junkyard options than the OME add-a-lift. I will try and find it again.
And indy4x didn't recommend the longer shackles, so I followed their recommendations and just added HD standard length ones. I think the factory ones are fine, but since I had it all apart to replace the leaf springs, I did the shackles as well.
If I had it to do again I would have just added a junkyard leaf, and called it good. I would have skipped the HD torsion bars as well. I think the ball joint flip is a good idea to reduce the angle on the cv joints though. If really ambitious you could do the differential drop brackets to further improve your cv angle. I thought about it when I had my front differential out, but decided to run it this way as I don't intend to be on really challenging trails.
 
#39 ·
#40 ·
Thanks for your insite .. I really appreciate it. looks like a mild lift it is. well I guess as it will either be a true pavement princess or eventually sold i wont get to financially invested in it
 
#41 ·
so I went to check my intank Fuel pump and screen. . Well it appears that im not the first to do this . I got out the grinder and thin Zip disc to do the Johnny%ive mod so I can get access from the top without dropping the tank. I had found the video and psyched myself for cutting good metal for once on a body. after fighting the hold down points Bolts and broken loose nuts I decided on well hey the grinder is already here , So off came the heads. a small tap tap with my trusty hammer Mjolnir ,they dropped down to the ground. Once the carpet and padding were rolled back a mystery occurred, I discovered that it( the patch panel above the pump) has already been done and the patch was fiberglassed in :?: . well after some exploring around i have seen that the fuel pump assy is held on by 4 of 8 bolts ... great :roll: . after making my way into the tank its actually clean :alien: BUT The pump is covered in Surface rust ... I find that indicative it was either stored in a moist climate with a nearly empty tank or it had gone for a swim an.... but it looks like i should try a fuel pump replacement Before i start in on the Carb conversion . as Id have to do it anyway :|
 
#42 ·
120 $ after taxes !!!!!!! for the pump CAAAARRRRPPPP.
 
#43 ·
after having it for about a month now i decided i should check the tire pressures. WELLL NOW >>> all of them were at 40 psi . that explains somethings im now down to 30 , the factory recommends 25 though . if im stayin on the hard pack im good , but off road its stiff real stiff i think that may be an issue for my ride issues... i took it n a small FSR route and its better still stiff but im still over pressure for real rough/ off roads . but it still rides great on the highways .
 
#44 ·
http://alltrails.com/tracks/lily-lake-to-kvr
I took the Pavement Princess ROWDAYO out and about The last few days as I am still testing systems on it in various terrains. So it was up steep inclines Mud dry smooth rutted rough. Yea this track has a little of everything , including scenery, I also got to try out my 20 $ Canadian Tire Special, A discontinued retturned but still working camera for 20 $ Wow thats a deal i can shoot till it dies and it wont owe me anything :p
 

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#45 ·
On the whole it really Just needs Maint done to it. After having it out and about I'm pretty sure if i did a CV rebuild i can use these ones it seems they are in good shape. So it comes down to a window and a WW pump are the only things I will have to go out of my way to purchase to make this thing worth something. :D
 

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#46 ·
While i was flopping around decided to check the options and in amongst the Pavementy Princess options HEY !!! Not only do I have a 70 A alternator. I have a L.S.D. thats a score!
 
#48 ·
Great pics
 
#49 ·
Well i started in on the ITECH minimizing and came across this oddity :shock: :?: ... the pull cable has a bolt and nut to act as a keeper but I have no idea as to what the heck its for. I have enough of the Itech crap loosened and there are hoses I want/ have to replace. Its all having to come off to replace them ... :x Man now i understand why Johnny 5ive hates this setup. I do too its overly complicated and too much stuff is hidden in such a way its almost easier to pull the head to get anything. :| :evil: if i came across the guy that decided to hide this much stuff I'd kick him in the soft bits. :mrgreen:
 

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#50 ·
I took the Princess up to a local lake that has been snowed in , but as we have had a few wet days i decided to poke around and have a look . its open Time to go FISHING :D
 

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#51 ·
PPCLI-JIM said:
Well i started in on the ITECH minimizing and came across this oddity :shock: :?: ... the pull cable has a bolt and nut to act as a keeper but I have no idea as to what the heck its for.
Perhaps it's a cable for a cruise control that was removed...? Where does the other end go?

Shaggy
 
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