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indy4x swayaway torsion bars

74K views 46 replies 23 participants last post by  egagnon086 
#1 ·
i will soon be installing indy4x swayaway torsion bars,i know how to adjust them.how do you change them.very little info here on changing them 8) recon
 
#27 ·
i finally installed my sway a way torsion bars yesterday,i bought them in august of 2010 lol 8) recon
 
#29 ·
GoodyMOBB said:
Lol you sound as bad as me. I started replacing the suspension last September... So far I'm one upper ball joint down. Good thing it's just a project.
yeah but i also did an aussie locker installation and a 1.5 inch diff/cross member drop at the same time 8) recon
 
#30 ·
EricJette said:
Ok, I'm going to ask what may be a really, really dumb question here, but why would you need to replace the torsion bars in the first place?
This is something I often wonder. To me the main purpose is to compensate for a bumper and a winch. I would think that stiffer bars would lead to less front end flex but I'm not using them so honestly I don't know for sure.
 
#31 ·
I suppose if you add 200 + lbs to the front end with a bumper, brushbar and winch you'd need to compensate for sag and go with stiffer T-bars if cranking them wouldn't keep the front end from bottoming out in the rough stuff more than it would otherwise.

Thanks, that actually make logical sense. I was thinking more along the lines of age and metal fatigue possibly being the primary reason (given a quarter century of loading and vibration imposed on them).
 
#32 ·
recon said:
i finally installed my sway a way torsion bars yesterday,i bought them in august of 2010 lol 8) recon
i forgot to post a pic lol 8) recon

 
#33 ·
jwood1016 said:
EricJette said:
Ok, I'm going to ask what may be a really, really dumb question here, but why would you need to replace the torsion bars in the first place?
This is something I often wonder. To me the main purpose is to compensate for a bumper and a winch. I would think that stiffer bars would lead to less front end flex but I'm not using them so honestly I don't know for sure.
Coming from a performance autocrossing Porsche 911 background, I went with the stiffer bigger Sway-a-Way T-bars simply for less body-roll while cornering hard at speed. Especially if you're lifting the rig even a minor 1-1.5 with OME Old Man Emu rear springs.

Yes stiffer t-bars will help with winch/bumpers and additional weight, but I did it soley for performance and handling. Plus the 1.5" lift looks beechin good.



 
#34 ·
The stiffer bars actually ride better! Less body roll and Brake dive disappears. All Isuzu's have way too soft front springs for my taste. I've replaced the TB's in all 3 of my Troopers. Add some good shocks and HD sway bars and it's a whole different vehicle on the road. I don't loose flex off road and the tires stay planted.
 
#35 ·
Thanks, I'll take this into consideration though my body roll in minimal as is brake dive with the KYB's and a tight front end...T-bars have been tweeked and ride hight is to stock spec.
 
#36 ·
for most people heavy duty torsion bars are not necessary.for me they were.my truck rides and handles much better now 8) recon
 
#37 ·
What kind of grease did you use on the splines?
 
#39 ·
Major thanks to Independent 4x4 / my Sway-a-way T-bars per my above post.

I'd had them on my rig about 4-5 years (check my previous photo post date)

Independent 4x stepped up to the plate and replaced a t-bar that I somehow managed to crack in half, and I don't do off-roading my my 2004 3.5 DI rodeo.

Looked like a casting flaw in the iron due to a rusty pattern internal to the forged t-bar that propagated from a crack. after a couple of short phone calls and me sending them pictures, they warrantied and even sent me 2 new t-bar units free of charge including shipping.

THAT is good customer service. Thank you Indy 4x
 
#42 ·
hello there!

there was a half inch difference in height between the left and right side of my truck (TFR 54)....adjusted the left side torsion bar (about 2 turns) and now it is level.

but there is a 10 mm difference on the protruding length between the (left & right) adjuster bolts. do i need to reindex the torsion bars? or should i let it be that way? take note that the truck is now level.

i bought this truck used and probably repairs were done on the suspension and the torsion bars were not indexed properly.
 
#43 ·
Best to start a new topic for this kind of question. I wouldn't reindex for a 10mm difference, so long as the adjuster isn't maxed out it shouldn't be a problem.
 
#44 ·
mudoilngears said:
I wouldn't reindex for a 10mm difference, so long as the adjuster isn't maxed out it shouldn't be a problem.
Yup, just don't bottom out the big adjustment bolt, but if you need to re-index (I've had to before, after the initial guess-mate install positioning) It's fast if you choose to re-index the front splines. To fix your mis-matched positioning, just mark a line across the T-bar and receiving frame mount with a sharpy pen, then just reclock from this index point up/down 2-3 splines. Very quick and easy to do once you have the t-bar installed and in-place.
 
#47 ·
So now that Indy4x is almost out of the torsion bar market, If anyone is interested in a set of quality increase rate Torsion bars for their Zu give me a shout.

Eric
-Classic City Overland
 
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