i will soon be installing indy4x swayaway torsion bars,i know how to adjust them.how do you change them.very little info here on changing them 8) recon
This is something I often wonder. To me the main purpose is to compensate for a bumper and a winch. I would think that stiffer bars would lead to less front end flex but I'm not using them so honestly I don't know for sure.
I suppose if you add 200 + lbs to the front end with a bumper, brushbar and winch you'd need to compensate for sag and go with stiffer T-bars if cranking them wouldn't keep the front end from bottoming out in the rough stuff more than it would otherwise.
Thanks, that actually make logical sense. I was thinking more along the lines of age and metal fatigue possibly being the primary reason (given a quarter century of loading and vibration imposed on them).
This is something I often wonder. To me the main purpose is to compensate for a bumper and a winch. I would think that stiffer bars would lead to less front end flex but I'm not using them so honestly I don't know for sure.
Coming from a performance autocrossing Porsche 911 background, I went with the stiffer bigger Sway-a-Way T-bars simply for less body-roll while cornering hard at speed. Especially if you're lifting the rig even a minor 1-1.5 with OME Old Man Emu rear springs.
Yes stiffer t-bars will help with winch/bumpers and additional weight, but I did it soley for performance and handling. Plus the 1.5" lift looks beechin good.
The stiffer bars actually ride better! Less body roll and Brake dive disappears. All Isuzu's have way too soft front springs for my taste. I've replaced the TB's in all 3 of my Troopers. Add some good shocks and HD sway bars and it's a whole different vehicle on the road. I don't loose flex off road and the tires stay planted.
Thanks, I'll take this into consideration though my body roll in minimal as is brake dive with the KYB's and a tight front end...T-bars have been tweeked and ride hight is to stock spec.
Major thanks to Independent 4x4 / my Sway-a-way T-bars per my above post.
I'd had them on my rig about 4-5 years (check my previous photo post date)
Independent 4x stepped up to the plate and replaced a t-bar that I somehow managed to crack in half, and I don't do off-roading my my 2004 3.5 DI rodeo.
Looked like a casting flaw in the iron due to a rusty pattern internal to the forged t-bar that propagated from a crack. after a couple of short phone calls and me sending them pictures, they warrantied and even sent me 2 new t-bar units free of charge including shipping.
Wife is tired of the Heffalump's nose rolling and diving. Since the upcoming project list includes bumpers and a winch, I just ordered a set of bars from Indy4X. Very excited!
there was a half inch difference in height between the left and right side of my truck (TFR 54)....adjusted the left side torsion bar (about 2 turns) and now it is level.
but there is a 10 mm difference on the protruding length between the (left & right) adjuster bolts. do i need to reindex the torsion bars? or should i let it be that way? take note that the truck is now level.
i bought this truck used and probably repairs were done on the suspension and the torsion bars were not indexed properly.
Best to start a new topic for this kind of question. I wouldn't reindex for a 10mm difference, so long as the adjuster isn't maxed out it shouldn't be a problem.
Yup, just don't bottom out the big adjustment bolt, but if you need to re-index (I've had to before, after the initial guess-mate install positioning) It's fast if you choose to re-index the front splines. To fix your mis-matched positioning, just mark a line across the T-bar and receiving frame mount with a sharpy pen, then just reclock from this index point up/down 2-3 splines. Very quick and easy to do once you have the t-bar installed and in-place.
So now that Indy4x is almost out of the torsion bar market, If anyone is interested in a set of quality increase rate Torsion bars for their Zu give me a shout.
Eric
-Classic City Overland
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