Definitely not a waste of time, and yes, wire gauge does matter. If you want an easy calculation, just take how many amps your alternator is capable of producing and then go from there. Make sure you overkill it a little bit to account for an underrated alternator and long term cable deterioration. For electrical components to work (in this example the alternator and battery) they must have both a proper positive and ground. If you have 2 gauge power wires, but a tiny little 14g ground from the battery to chassis, you have limited the current for the entire system down to that 14g wire. I personally used 2g when I did mine, because the price difference was pretty nil. I paid slightly more for the wire, but the connectors were cheaper for some reason so I came out about the same. I have a upgraded alternator and wanted to make sure my electrical system was really able to use it for the benefit of my sound system and one day a winch and on board compressor. Just search amazon for welding cable, crimp on terminal lugs, and a hammer crimper. For less than 100 bucks you should be able to get everything you need plus more. Definitely go with the welding cable though, it's all oxygen free copper. A lot of the battery cables on the market nowadays geared towards car audio are copper clad aluminum and will go to crap in moist environments in a jiffy. What your looking to upgrade is your alternator pos to battery pos, chassis to battery neg, and engine block to chassis. In doing these three you give your alternator free flow in both positive and negative, as well as everything else attached to the battery or chassis. Make sure that positive cable is crimped tight, insulated, and bolted down correctly, a loose wire can lead to a vehicle fire if it pops lose from one end, fyi.
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