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'97 Trooper: intake+VC gaskets, maybe HLAs and rocker arms

12K views 83 replies 7 participants last post by  5009TWI 
#1 ·
***JAN 25TH UPDATE***
Since the plan for repairing my engine has greatly changed since this thread was started, I won't be logging my work here; I'll start a fresh thread for that.

To summarize, this thread has effectively become "QA/setup" for the plan, which is swapping in DOHC cylinder heads from the 1992-1995 engine instead of replacing numerous valvetrain components which are known to be trouble-prone. Read on if you want to find out how this plan came to be; otherwise, stay tuned for my work log which should be starting within a few weeks.
***END JAN 25th UPDATE***

***FEB 15TH UPDATE***
Major revision to the plan. This entire time, a feeling has been building in the back of my mind. A general uneasiness about the fact that I'm putting so much money and time into the engine's top end but am leaving the bottom end alone (without having a clue as to the condition/remaining life of the bearings, oil pan, journals, and various other components). So I made the decision last week to rebuild the bottom end as well. Will hopefully be starting a month from now. Again, read on to learn the ins-and-outs.

Also, for anybody impatient for progress: Nasty610 is much further along with his identical project. See his thread here: http://forum.planetisuzoo.com/viewtopic.php?f=22&t=81719
***END FEB 15TH UPDATE***

This will be a pictorial log detailing work on my 1997 Trooper (192000 miles) 6VD1 SOHC to remedy:
-A CEL (P0304, cylinder #4 misfire)
-Oil leaking out of my engine from somewhere
-A possible vacuum problem (high idle; when shifting, RPM hangs for a moment before nosediving then bouncing back up)
-High oil usage
-Lifter ticking
-Failed valve cover gaskets and/or spark plug tube seals

This thread is effectively a sequel to one (link: viewtopic.php?f=4&p=752719#p752719) detailing my initial attempts to figure out what was causing the CEL. In that thread, gwana66, geoffinbc, and jeff97r all contributed to my decision to tackle the problem properly: full gasket replacement, intake cleaning, and hopefully hunting down the exact lifters ticking.

I have not yet begun the work, as I am first going to come up with a full parts list based on my understanding from these threads...
viewtopic.php?f=17&t=81334
viewtopic.php?f=17&t=6640&start=25
...and any suggestions/corrections you lovely people provide.

Parts list so far:
1) GASKETS/SEALS/O-RINGS (1a thru 1n I believe are included [along with head gaskets and a few other bits] in Fel-Pro's gasket set "HS 9174 PT-2")
1a) 3pc upper & lower intake gasket set
1b) 3pc EGR valve gasket set
1c) 2pc valve cover gasket set
1d) 6X spark plug tube seal
1e) thermostat gasket
1f) throttle body gasket
1g) water pump gasket
1h) 2pc camshaft rear seal set (each piece is for each camshaft)
1i) 2pc camshaft front seal set (each piece is for each camshaft)
1j) 24pc valve stem seal set (1 for each intake valve, 1 for each exhaust valve)
1k) 12pc fuel injector o-ring set (2 pieces for each injector)
1l) 2X water manifold gasket
1m) coolant housing gasket
1n) 2pc o-ring pair for the crossover pipes underneath the intake
2) WHILE WE'RE HERE, WE MAY AS WELL DIVE HEADFIRST INTO THE RABBIT HOLE
2a) timing belt
2b) timing belt tensioner
2c) timing belt idler
2d) PCV valve (cleaned it already but it's cheap, so why not)
2e) 2pc thermostat set (temp. switch and temp. sensor)
2f) water pump
2g) EGR (if for some reason I can't clean it)
2h) IAC valve (if for some reason I can't clean it)
2i) 6X ignition coil power supply connectors (1 for each coil)
3) HOPEFULLY NOT NECESSARY, BUT MAY BE NEEDED TO RESOLVE THE TICKER AND UNDO ANY ASSOCIATED DAMAGE
3a) unknown number of intake valves (total of 2 on each cylinder)
3b) unknown number of exhaust valves (total of 2 on each cylinder)
3c) unknown number of lifters (total of 4 on each cylinder)
3d) unknown number of intake rocker arms (total of 2 on each cylinder)
3e) unknown number of exhaust rocker arms (total of 2 on each cylinder)
3f) unknown number of intake valve guides (1 for every intake valve)
3g) unknown number of exhaust valve guides (1 for every exhaust valve)
3h) unknown number of valve springs (1 for each intake valve; 1 for each exhaust valve; both springs are identical)
3i) unknown number of intake valve seats (1 for each intake valve)
3j) unknown number of exhaust valve seats (1 for each exhaust valve)
3k) unknown number of intake rocker shafts (total of 2)
3l) unknown number of exhaust rocker shafts (total of 2)
4) HOSES/TUBING/PIPING
4a) PCV valve hose (upstream of TB butterfly valve)
4b) PCV valve hose (downstream of TB butterfly valve)
4c) coolant hoses (should be 4 of them, according to the first thread link I posted)
4d) any heater hoses (should be 2 of them, according to the first link I posted)

I heavily suspect there are some hoses and/or vacuum tubes (and maybe a gasket or o-ring) not on this list because I don't know about them or forgot. If this is the case, could anybody clue me in? Please don't be afraid to tell me if there are some parts that I shouldn't bother replacing. Spark plugs were all replaced during the prequel thread.

Note that for gaskets, I'm leaning towards Fel-Pro. For the water pump and timing built, I've seen some kits on Amazon produced by Evergreen; anybody have any experience with their products?

Obviously, after we finalize the parts list, I'll have to wait a few days for them to arrive before work can progress beyond the teardown.

A big ol' thanks to anybody who can contribute!
 
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#2 ·
I have zero personal experience with the 3.2, but from reading on here my understanding is that a lot of the tick noise is not due to the rocker arms themselves, but rather the shafts they ride on develop wear and the rockers get sloppy. Maybe one of the 3.2 guys will chime in.
 
#3 ·
Hey gwana66, thanks for contributing again! I've read the same thing as well, but I've also read that if the ticking is allowed to occur long enough, the rocker arms could bend and/or the lifters could become deformed; that's why I allowed for the possibility of replacing them and their associated valvetrain parts.

Since nobody at this point has flatout told me to not bother with certain things on my list, I'll be ordering the gasket set, a PCV valve, a timing belt/water pump kit, a thermostat set, and all hoses.
 
#4 ·
Do a compression test before you dive into it. If the readings are good I wouldn't mess with the valves if I was you. Unless you have to pull the heads for other reasons.

It looks like you have a pretty we'll thought out list otherwise. The only thing I would add is a fuel injector cleaning/replacing. I would pay particular attention to the injector on #4. If your not going to do anything to them at least move it to another cylinder to see if the misfire moves.

Sorry if this has already been mentioned in your other thread I haven't had a chance to go through it.
 
#5 ·
Yep, compression test was already done and discussed in the previous thread; but no worries, input is always appreciated. 3 of the cylinders were right on the money, at 170 psi; other 3 (which include #4) were around 150.

Is fuel injector cleaning something I can do myself?
 
#6 ·
To a certain extent yes you can clean them yourself. But if you are tearing into it like you are planning on it probably wouldn't hurt to get them flow tested/cleaned professionally.

Balance across all the injectors is paramount in the 3.2 (At least it is in the older 3.2's with only one 02 sensor). Yours is quite a bit newer than mine, I am not sure if it is advanced enough to adjust individual cylinder banks fuel ratio or not.

Anyways don't over look the fuel system when chasing for a miss.
 
#7 ·
I'll be sure to look into that. Can you recommend a good company that performs testing/cleaning?
 
#9 ·
Before you dive into this project you may want to consider a set of remanufactured heads. I have a 96 Trooper that I'm rebuilding an engine for and the cost of valve train parts is quite staggering. I was going to have more wrapped up in rocker arms and rocker shafts than for all the machine work.

Gwana is correct that the lifters aren't generally the cause of the ticking problem. The problem arises from lack of lubrication on the intake rocker shaft. When I tore my heads apart I found the shaft itself had steps worn into it and each intake rocker arm and exhaust sub rocker arm were worn beyond useable limits.

There is no cheap source for rocker arms or rocker shafts. You may have better luck but with amount of miles your truck has I wouldn't count on it. In the end I decided to attempt a DOHC head conversion because it was cheaper to order another set of heads+machine work than to order parts for the SOHC heads.

As far as your gasket set goes Felpro is a good brand. I bought a kit off eBay for a lot less. Quality seems to be on par with Felpro as well. If you find a source, other than Jerry, for all the coolant hose please post it. As far as I could find no one sells them so I was going to buy the correct sizes in bulk then cut to fit.
 
#10 ·
A truly giant thank you to all of you; because of your input, my Trooper is on the road to recovery. After talking to Jerry a LOT across these past few days, the plan is now to go with nasty610's idea to perform a DOHC head conversion from a 1992-1995 3.2. So far, here are the parts list changes (to be fully written in soon):

-Section 3 contents will be replaced with the DOHC heads. By the way, nasty610: Did you mean that you went and grabbed some old heads then had them remanufactured? If so, where did you send them to for the work?
-Also in "new" Section 3 are DOHC exhaust parts that will also need to be swapped: headers + down pipes.
-Different gasket set (waiting for Jerry to clarify whether it needs to be for the 1992-1995 SOHC or the 1996-1997 SOHC).
-MAYBE a different water pump + timing belt kit than the one I've already ordered (forgot to mention that earlier; it's Gates). I think I'll need a different kit but not 100% sure yet.

Work won't be able to fully begin for a while due to the cost (have to wait for a few more paychecks). Also waiting to hear back from Jerry about the hoses.

Somewhere in the Zoo I saw somebody mention that their time here has taught them more about engines than years of school + traditional sources. That is unquestionably true for me as well. So far I've learned about:
-Hydraulic lifters, rocker arms, the general theory of SOHC valvetrains, and how much work goes into designing an engine that stands up to poor maintenance.
-What makes DOHC so lovely beyond the performance benefits.
-Plastic is NOT the future.
-If I ever start a car company, I'm just going to license a ubiquitous, reliable engine rather than significantly redesign mine every few years. Even if my company eventually fails, at least my conscience will be clear for when my buyers need to start performing major engine work years later.
-Screw Consumer Reports; these trucks are awesome. You wouldn't be surprised if a loaded gun went off when you threw it in a clothes dryer; don't be surprised if an SUV rolls over when you go crazy with the cheese whiz.
 
#11 ·
I found my heads on car-part.com at a junk yard in GA. You need the heads and valve covers. The timing pulleys on the DOHC heads are metal and useless on the OBD2 engine. Use the pulleys from the SOHC head. They are plastic and have the magnet for the cam position sensor. The only part of the timing assembly that's different between the 2 engines is the belt. This is because the DOHC heads a shorter than the SOHC heads so the belt itself is a few teeth shorter. Use must use the timing belt covers from the SOHC engine to retain the location hole for the cam sensor.

I haven't had time to finish my engine yet but as far as I can tell everything lines up. Probably going to be another month or two before I get the time to finish my engine and get it installed. The shop I used for all the machine work sucked. They couldn't keep a deadline and the work I had them do on my 2.8 manifold had to be fixed. I would suggest you call around to the various machine shops in your area and get quotes. If the are cheap there's a reason.

As for the benefits of the DOHC heads aside from performance. The biggest advantage is the lack of rocker arms and shafts. The cams in these heads sits directly over the valve so the lobe pushes directly on the valve. This also makes the lubrication system better because it doesn't have to push oil through the rocker shafts. The performance side is a nice benefit but I think most of it comes from the increase in compression, up to 9.8:1 from 9:1, and less from additional flow.
 
#12 ·
I've used car-part before; loved it. When you called around, were most places including the valve covers + all valvetrain parts in the price?

And yep, having learned about DOHC now I'm in awe of how much better it is from a durability/reliability/simplicity standpoint.

UPDATED Parts list so far:

1) PARTS FOR THE CYLINDER HEAD CONVERSION TO 1992-1995 DOHC
1a) complete heads (including valvetrain + valve covers) for DOHC
1b) plastic SOHC timing pulleys (metal DOHC ones don't have the cam position sensor magnet required for my OBD2 system)
1c) upper (left + right) timing belt covers for SOHC (needed to maintain location hole for cam position sensor)
1d) exhaust headers + runners for DOHC (my current headers connect to cylinder heads with 3 bolts; the DOHC ones use 2 bolts)
1e) timing belt (DOHC)
1f) valve cover gaskets + tube seals for DOHC
1g) exhaust manifold gaskets for DOHC
1h) timing belt tensioner !!!SEE QUESTIONS AT END!!!
1i) 3pc set of accessory belts (one for power steering, one for alternator, one for A/C compressor) !!!SEE QUESTIONS AT END!!!

2) WHILE WE'RE HERE, WE MAY AS WELL DIVE HEADFIRST INTO THE RABBIT HOLE
2a) water pump (either 1992-1995 SOHC, 1992-1995 DOHC, or 1996-1997; doesn't matter)
2b) 6X ignition coil power supply connectors (1 for each coil)
2c) IAC valve (if for some reason I can't clean it)
2d) PCV valve (cleaned it already but it's cheap, so why not)
2e) temperature switch
2f) temperature sensor
2g) EGR valve (if for some reason I can't clean it)

3) GASKETS/SEALS/O-RINGS THAT ARE SAME AS IN MY CURRENT ENGINE
3a) 2pc o-ring pair for the crossover pipes underneath the intake
3b) EGR valve gasket set
3c) throttle body gasket
3d) temperature switch gasket
3e) temperature sensor gasket
3f) water pump gasket
3g) 12pc fuel injector o-ring set (2 pieces for each injector)
3h) 2X water manifold gasket
3i) coolant housing gasket
3j) complete intake manifold gasket set for SOHC (either 1992-1995 or 1996-1997; doesn't matter as long as it's for SOHC)
3k) head gaskets (either 1992-1995 SOHC, 1992-1995 DOHC, or 1996-1997; doesn't matter)

4) HOSES/TUBING/PIPING
4a) PCV valve hose (upstream of TB butterfly valve)
4b) PCV valve hose (downstream of TB butterfly valve)
4c) coolant hoses (should be 4 of them, according to the first thread link I posted)
4d) any heater hoses (should be 2 of them, according to the first link I posted)

5) SERVICES
5a) fuel injector refurbishment
5b) DOHC cylinder head remanufacturing (this is why I removed the plugs/o-rings/seals for the valves + cams from section 3)

QUESTIONS:
-Will I be using the 3 accessory belts (power steering, A/C compressor, alternator) meant for my engine?
-Will I be using the timing belt tensioner meant for my engine?
 
#13 ·
Note: any notes in my updated list that aren't from this thread are from my conversation with Jerry.

Seems like he and I had a miscommunication about the hoses; gonna ask again.
 
#14 ·
When I ordered my heads they came complete with pulleys and covers. I'm pretty sure the exhaust manifolds from the SOHC will bolt on to the DOHC heads. After that just order a timing belt/water pump kit off a 95 Trooper DOHC on Rockauto.com. It will come with the tensioner, belt, idled and water pump. There's several vendors on eBay that sell top end gasket set for cheap as well. You will have to buy the intake gaskets separate though if you use the SOHC intake which is recommended.
 
#15 ·
You mean you got the yard to go to two different trucks, and take DOHC cylinder heads from one and SOHC upper timing belt covers + SOHC plastic pulleys from the other?

Made a typo in my list regarding the exhaust header bolts. Jerry had said that there are 2 bolts vs. 3 where the exhaust headers connect to the down pipes, NOT where the exhaust headers connect to the cylinder head.

I just double-checked the gasket set (well, Fel-Pro's at least) and 1992-1995...
http://www.fmmotorparts.com/fmstore...1995&make=Isuzu&models=Trooper#horizontalTab1
...seems to be a different bolting pattern than 1996-1997...
http://www.fmmotorparts.com/fmstore...RMS90725?years=1997&make=Isuzu&models=Trooper
...or maybe I'm misinterpreting what you meant by "SOHC" in that part of your response. At first I thought you were suggesting I could reuse my current exhaust headers, but I think you might've been saying I can use exhaust headers from either the 1992-1995 DOHC or 1992-1995 SOHC engines even though my updated list specified DOHC ones.

Awesome news for the timing belt kit. Obviously, I'm having to Frankenstein-together a gasket set; didn't want to have to do that with the water pump + timing belt kit as well.
 
#16 ·
The yard I ordered my heads from sent me complete ready to bolt on DOHC heads which included the DOHC pulleys and valve covers. I'm reusing the cam pulleys and timing covers that are already in my truck. They are a direct bolt on to the DOHC head.

I'll have to check the exhaust manifolds when I get a chance. Could have sworn the SOHC ones would bolt to the DOHC. If not I guess I'll be ordering some DOHC manifolds or building some headers.

I think you're reading to far into this swap. All you're doing is removing your SOHC head then bolting the DOHC heads in their place. The only other DOHC specific part you need is the timing belt.
 
#17 ·
I believe the cam timing pulleys on the 92-95 DOHC have a different tooth count than the SOHC, they are not 2:1 ratio with the crank. That was one of the difficulties I had spotted in getting those DOHC heads on the OBD2 96-97 SOHC engine. No cam sensor. Bigger DOHC cam pulley won't fit under the SOHC timing covers.
 
#18 ·
And I think the exhaust manifolds changed in 96 as well, slightly different bolt pattern to the engine but otherwise the same. SOHC and DOHC 92-95 are the same but the down pipes are a smidge different between Trooper and Rodeo.
 
#19 ·
800XL said:
I believe the cam timing pulleys on the 92-95 DOHC have a different tooth count than the SOHC, they are not 2:1 ratio with the crank. That was one of the difficulties I had spotted in getting those DOHC heads on the OBD2 96-97 SOHC engine. No cam sensor. Bigger DOHC cam pulley won't fit under the SOHC timing covers.
Pulleys are exactly the same size and tooth count. DOHC pulleys are made of metal while the SOHC pulleys are a type of plastic with the magnet for the sensor glued in place. I've already confirmed that the pulleys are interchangeable between the 2 heads.

800XL said:
And I think the exhaust manifolds changed in 96 as well, slightly different bolt pattern to the engine but otherwise the same. SOHC and DOHC 92-95 are the same but the down pipes are a smidge different between Trooper and Rodeo.
I've had a set of 96-97 SOHC heads sitting next to a set of 92-95 DOHC heads for months and never thought to look at the manifold bolt pattern. I'm really glad the OP brought it up because I would have dropped everything off with my mechanic to be installed never realizing they were different.
 
#20 ·
I'll double check my 95 factory manual but I would have bet you the DOHC pulleys were different. It's been a few years since we swapped the DOHC engine into DutchBro's Rodeo but I am remembering a fairly different size cam pulley. My 95 SOHC does have the same size pulleys exactly as the plastic coated ones on the 96-97. I've got one of each of those out right now and I am sure they are the same.
 
#21 ·
On the 92-95 DOHC heads the cam pulley drives the intake camshaft directly. As in its bolted on the end of the intake camshaft. The intake cam drives the exhaust cam though a chain at a 1:1 ratio.

When I first got the DOHC heads I thought I was going to be forced to adapted the metal cam pulleys to work with the cam sensor. I was pretty surprised when I laid the SOHC pulley on top of the DOHC pulley and all the teeth lined up perfectly and they were the same diameter.
 
#22 ·
Nasty610 (from your oldest to newest posts): Yeah, sorry all the setup was getting so detailed; I don't have a ton of expendable budget, so I have to be positive that I'm not ordering incompatible parts. You'd have a great time with my college professors; they always said I seem to enjoy making things way more complicated than they are.

Most of my confusion was keeping my understanding straight of whether you meant 1992-1995 SOHC or 1996-1997 SOHC whenever you said "SOHC." So just to make sure we're on the same page: I will be reusing the cam pulleys + the upper timing belt covers (both of which you have confirmed will fit) from my current engine, correct? The reason I said "Most of my confusion" is because Jerry had also said that I'd need new covers:

DONT FORGET YOU WILL ALLSO NEED THE TOP LEFT AND RT SIDE TIMING BELT COVERS , THE LOWERE ONE IS THE SAME
Regarding my bringing up the headers: I can't take any credit for that. Jerry mentioned it to me after I decided to go with the head conversion; I wouldn't have had a clue otherwise. You guys and him have really brought me up to my current knowledge level; I barely knew anything about any of these engines before I started this thread.

Also, I think 800XL was talking about the ratio between (each camshaft pair as a collective unit) & (the crankshaft), not the ratio between (each intake camshaft) & (its neighboring exhaust camshaft).

800XL: A few days ago I found this thread (viewtopic.php?t=17702) where Jerry seemed to define the 92-95 Rodeo's SOHC 3.2 as being different from the 92-95 Trooper's SOHC 3.2...

92-95 TROOPER 3.2. SOHC ENG 175 HP

92-95 TROOPER 3.2 DOHC ENG 190 HP

93-95 RODEO 3.2 SOHC ENG 175 HP

ALL THESE ENGS USE WHATS CALLED A BATCH FIRE FUEL INJ SYSTEM. ALONG WITH THE 3 COIL PACKS WHICH IS CALLED A WASTED SPARK SYSTEM MEANING WHEN ONE CYL IS FIRING ON COMP ONE COMPANION CYL IS FIRING ON THE EX ..

ALL THESE ENGS ARE COMPLETELY INTERCHANGABLE WITH EACH OTHER WITHA FEW MINOR CHANGES WITH THE INTAKE SYSTEM AND RELOCATING THE COILS.
...though I never tried to find out what they difference was. Maybe it was the different sized pulley you observed during the swap?

Totally new question: Should I get a brand new set of head bolts? I've heard some manufacturers used bolts that were designed to stretch, and couldn't be reused after they were removed.

Off-topic: I've been to Wikipedia's page for the Trooper so many times since I got this truck. I've noticed at the bottom that there's a few summaries of the Trooper's performance in various rallies. Eventually I tried to find some footage of the 2nd gen and last night I was finally successful:

[BBvideo 560,340:3g1604e7]https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=KWo3QnYOQtI[/BBvideo]

Just thought y'all may enjoy that. Those high speed shots are breathtaking.
 
#23 ·
The SOHC heads are the same basic heads. The 96-97 uses a hotter cam which can be used in the 92-95 as a performance upgrade. I have a 96 Trooper that I'm swapping 95 DOHC heads into.

The timing covers from my 96 will bolt onto the DOHC heads. I haven't installed the heads onto the engine yet so I'm not sure if there will be any clearance issues. Even if there is you MUST use the 96-97 upper timing cover and pulleys. Those parts are where the cam position sensor is located.

Camshafts are ALWAYS driven at half the speed of the crankshaft. On the 92-95 DOHC engine the ratio is done through the cam pulleys and the crankshaft pulley with the intake cam driving the exhaust cam at 1:1 through a chain system.

On the 98+ engines the cam pulley is mount between and below centerline of the camshafts. The pulley in this case mounts to a stub shaft which has a gear on the end that spins the camshafts. Because there isn't room inside the heads the gear system CANNOT spin the cams at a 1:1 ratio. So in these heads there ratio for the belt/pulleys and a gear ratio inside the head. When these two ratios are put together you end up with the 2:1 camshaft drive ratio.

The Rodeo had a GM 3.1L v6 in 1992 then in 1993 they installed the Isuzu 3.2 SOHC engine from the Trooper. Same engine just usage started a year later.

Yes you need new head bolts. The factory boots are torque to yield and not reusable. This only applies to the large bolts. There are 3 small bolts at the front of the head that do get reused. Unless like me you drill one out then throw the rest away before verifying you have new ones in your head bolt kit.

I'm going to try to get the engine completely assembled either tomorrow or next week. So if you don't mind waiting a bit to order parts I can hopefully provide some insight and pictures to help.

That's a pretty awesome video. It's beyond cool to see these trucks competing and being competitive.
 
#24 ·
I've got the 95 SOHC, and just need to reassemble after upgrading the intake cam to the 96-97. The exhaust cams are the same.

I have had it in my head that the cams on the 92-95 DOHC were driven just like the 98+, off a shaft that is geared to the cams. The timing pulley being different sized to make it up and make the cams turn 2 to 1 with the crank. If that is wrong it's probably from confusing a conversion with Jerry about DOHC and mixing up the 98+ with the 92-95.

I've long had the idea in my head that a DOHC head swap onto a 96-97 block would be a pretty sweet setup. 200+HP seems pretty likely. Doesn't help me much with my 95, but it would make a 96-97 nice. I was hoping to one day build a Rodeo based on this. Now there will be at least one build I can follow.
 
#25 ·
800XL: I'll do my best to document it for your future benefit. A relative is letting me use their garage for this whole job, but only for a week. So I don't want to begin until I have all the parts, which I'm still buying; that's why I haven't replied lately.

Nasty610: What weight of oil will you be using once the job is done? I've been running 5W-30 but I remember my shop manual specifying a ridiculously high weight, like 15W-40 or somewhere in that range. Pretty sure I saw at least two Zoo members say they basically run diesel oil (Rotella, if I recall).

Also Jerry is selling the complete hose set for around $85
 
#26 ·
I'll be running a quality synthetic 5w30 or 10w30. I've run Rotella 15w40 in both my Troopers to "cure" some tapping noises. Its very good oil but lighter oils will give better fuel mileage.
 
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