3.5l V6 Engine Record

Discuss anything related to drivetrain problems here (Engine, Transmission, etc)

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How is your 3.5l V6?

Running Strong, doesn't use any oil
154
25%
Running Strong, uses some oil (<1qt in 1k miles)
305
50%
Running Strong, uses more oil than gas (>1qt in 1k miles)
92
15%
Dead & Replaced (or sold). Used no oil when alive
16
3%
Dead & Replaced (or sold). Used oil when alive
49
8%
 
Total votes : 616

Re: 3.5l V6 Engine Record

Postby Tad » Sun Dec 11, 2016 8:13 am

When I visited Isuzu I asked why they offered a 2wd version. They said that they were selling more of those than the 4wd version. Go figure.
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Re: 3.5l V6 Engine Record

Postby Silver2002Trooper » Sun Dec 11, 2016 9:29 am

Soccer moms?
-2002 Trooper S 4x4 3.5L 4L30e 150,000mi
265/70-16 Pathfinder ATs on 16x8 AR Outlaw IIs
Burns about 1 quart of oil/600 miles yet runs great.
Power everything, especially @ the gas pedal!
Excellent condition in and out bone-stock example.
-2007 Kawi Vulcan 900 Classic LT, red/gold, 24,000mi
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Re: 3.5l V6 Engine Record

Postby Ed Mc. » Wed Dec 14, 2016 7:03 pm

Here's another 2002 Trooper, in the Portland area (Eagle Creek), this one is 4WD for $500. Says the tranny fluid is black (!) and it slips after a while of driving. Gee, that's a surprise!!! :roll:

You'd have to trailer it back or bolt up a spare set of tires/wheels, 'cause he sold the tires off of it. But it's a runner for $500.

162K so the engine may have some life left in it. Who knows, it might even run with a transmission fluid flush!

https://portland.craigslist.org/mlt/cto/5919213530.html
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'89 Troop RS (Exhaust Valve Challenged), now gone to a Good Home!
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Re: 3.5l V6 Engine Record

Postby Silver2002Trooper » Sun Dec 18, 2016 5:33 pm

Okay so a quick update. I ran seafoam for about a hundred twenty five miles then change the oil. Now it was very cold in the garage but I am certain I saw little bits of Amber colored stuff sitting in the catch pan. Last oil change 3000 miles ago I saw amber colored jelly bits, very little but I know what I saw. When I looked it up I found info saying this was old oil gunking up. So now this stuff appears to be the same jelly just Frozen. Anybody familiar with this? I then used engine engine flush and motor oil at 4 to 1 ratio for 5 minutes, drain and refill with oil.

I refilled with 5/ 20 Pennzoil just as sacrificial oil because I added more seafoam and will drain and change again after another 150 miles. At this point all is experimental taking some hints and advice from everybody here on doing this procedure. I hope this helps my oil consumption problem some. But I still need to do an upper piston ring soak with seafoam to really break up carbon buildup in the Rings. On that note seems to me that the carbon buildup in the Rings is starving the Piston sleeves and the cylinder walls of needed oil. Instead that oil is being burned up in the combustion chamber. Would it then make sense to anybody that this condition also lends to the Piston slap condition I am starting to notice and others have noticed when the engine is cold?
-2002 Trooper S 4x4 3.5L 4L30e 150,000mi
265/70-16 Pathfinder ATs on 16x8 AR Outlaw IIs
Burns about 1 quart of oil/600 miles yet runs great.
Power everything, especially @ the gas pedal!
Excellent condition in and out bone-stock example.
-2007 Kawi Vulcan 900 Classic LT, red/gold, 24,000mi
Silver2002Trooper
Drives on Gravel
 
Posts: 38
Joined: Fri Oct 09, 2015 11:10 am
Location: Washington state
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Re: 3.5l V6 Engine Record

Postby Ed Mc. » Sun Dec 18, 2016 6:43 pm

Sounds like the Seafoam is getting a bite on the gunky engine deposits. So continuing that process is a good thing.

The thing about the ring problem is that there may not be enough oil drain holes in the 3rd (bottom) ring set, which are oil control scrapers. So what happens is, the oil "cokes" up, forming carbon deposits on the scraper rings and they can't do their job. In fact more oil is going past the rings and being burnt in the combustion process.

This problem can happen even in the later engines with improved oiling design, if the EGR system was abused or not functioning properly. Exhaust Gas Recirculation does cool the combustion chamber, so if the EGR valve & its control system aren't working right, or the EGR/passages are plugged the pistons are gonna run hotter, and this can lead to oil coking. Also check the PCV valve, if it's clogged it can cause oiling problems too.

The oil control (scraper) rings are suppose to pull down any excess oil on the cylinder walls, on the piston downstroke. So, the cylinder walls should be receiving adequate lubrication, the real problem is the oil is not being "scavenged" back into the crankcase.

Piston slap can be caused by many things but typically it's either mfr's piston-to-cyl tolerances, or extreme wear. Aggravated by the use of longer-throws on the crankshaft and really short "slipper" piston skirts. GM had such a problem with their 60-deg FWD V6's that they had to go with Teflon-coated pistons, running at extremely tight tolerances, to fix the issue.

When I rebuild a 2.8 into a "3.2 Stroker", the aftermarket pistons I used had the Teflon coating on the skirts. And specific instructions for the machine shop about the tight tolerances for boring & finish-honing the cylinder. It was a very tight engine and even after 10+ years it's running very well in the hands of my Nephew.

At any rate, what you're doing may be working, hopefully you'll be seeing an improvement in oil consumption. I would also be using the Gumout Regane fuel additive, to attack the problem from that end as well. You may find that using Gumout along with the Seafoam oil treatment, your oil consumption numbers may improve to where you don't need to do the Seafoam cylinder-soak.

I'd use the Gumout Hi-miles stuff as it has a small amount of top-end lubricant and that can't hurt a bit. Far as the piston slap goes, as long as it's going away when the engine's fully warmed, not as much of a concern. Especially if you start seeing an improvement in oil burning.

You could do a "shock" treatment with 2 bottles of Regane, with a one-bottle followup: https://www.walmart.com/ip/16888905

Geoff did the carbon-cleaning regimen on his Rav4 and noted an improvement in oil useage, so there's some good anecdotal evidence that the process can work.

HTH.........ed
'90 3.4 Troop LS;
'89 Troop RS (Exhaust Valve Challenged), now gone to a Good Home!
Yes, I am a Trooper-Holic!!!
Keep On Troopin' !
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Re: 3.5l V6 Engine Record

Postby Silver2002Trooper » Mon Dec 19, 2016 2:40 am

Yeah I hope something improves. I am really not in the mood to overhaul the engine myself or to pay someone else to do it. I keep up generally with the EGR tube however it's been a little while since I cleaned it out. I'll probably do that tomorrow morning with a pipe cleaner brush. What do you mean about the PCV? What do you suggest I do with that?

On another note I bought a set of discs and pads all around because my rear wear indicators were just beginning to squeal. I wanted drilled rotors and performance pads anyway so I just went ahead and bought the whole shebang. But I think you'll agree seeing the condition of the old rotors that it was time. And just look at those new ones how can I resist?
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-2002 Trooper S 4x4 3.5L 4L30e 150,000mi
265/70-16 Pathfinder ATs on 16x8 AR Outlaw IIs
Burns about 1 quart of oil/600 miles yet runs great.
Power everything, especially @ the gas pedal!
Excellent condition in and out bone-stock example.
-2007 Kawi Vulcan 900 Classic LT, red/gold, 24,000mi
Silver2002Trooper
Drives on Gravel
 
Posts: 38
Joined: Fri Oct 09, 2015 11:10 am
Location: Washington state
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Re: 3.5l V6 Engine Record

Postby Ed Mc. » Mon Dec 19, 2016 3:05 am

On the PCV valve, just a check to make sure it's not plugged. The spring-loaded plunger should rattle when you shake it; also it should pass air freely one way and clamp down on airflow in the other direction. Clean it up with carb cleaner or replace, as necessary.

Didn't see any pics of the old rotors but I concur with the drilled rotors, they do work very well. I installed drilled/slotted rotors up front for my Big Brake Mod, and they have an excellent feel when braking.

2002 3.5 should have a screw-in type PCV valve.
You do not have the required permissions to view the files attached to this post.
'90 3.4 Troop LS;
'89 Troop RS (Exhaust Valve Challenged), now gone to a Good Home!
Yes, I am a Trooper-Holic!!!
Keep On Troopin' !
Ed Mc.
Almost Joe Isuzu
 
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Re: 3.5l V6 Engine Record

Postby Silver2002Trooper » Mon Dec 19, 2016 3:31 am

Cool that should be easy enough with the PCV. I'll probably do that along with scrubbing out the EGR tube. I haven't replaced my front brakes yet because as you know it's a little bit more of a job then the rear. Specifically I don't know where to find the tool that removes the bearing retainer ring. I mean I guess I could fabricate something. Also I thought I should probably get a new set of front end wheel bearings since they will be removed while I'm at it. Even if they don't need replacement doesn't matter to me because their cost is insignificant considering everything else. In addition I have slightly oversized tires and 0 offset rims, which has probably stressed the front end bearings. May as well play it safe right?
-2002 Trooper S 4x4 3.5L 4L30e 150,000mi
265/70-16 Pathfinder ATs on 16x8 AR Outlaw IIs
Burns about 1 quart of oil/600 miles yet runs great.
Power everything, especially @ the gas pedal!
Excellent condition in and out bone-stock example.
-2007 Kawi Vulcan 900 Classic LT, red/gold, 24,000mi
Silver2002Trooper
Drives on Gravel
 
Posts: 38
Joined: Fri Oct 09, 2015 11:10 am
Location: Washington state
Has thanked: 0 time
Have thanks: 2 times

Re: 3.5l V6 Engine Record

Postby SteveSample » Thu Dec 22, 2016 12:39 pm

Dead, I sold it because I couldn't get the transmission and engine codes figured out.
2000 Trooper, 117,000 miles
OME 912 Springs, OME N-65 and N-15 Shocks,
G80 Differential, Aisin Manual Hubs, Yokohama Geolander ATS 245/70/16, Custom Roof Rack, GPS and CB.
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