2002 rodeo transmission problem

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2002 rodeo transmission problem

Postby Tg16 » Sun Apr 23, 2017 1:01 am

I have had a ongoing problem with my trans since rebuilt a few years ago.

Today i took both trans pans off.


I found that the front aux valve body has the pre 2000 tcc solenoid.

How does it even work?

Should i replace the whole valve body with the correct one?

Or can i just install the proper solenoid and wire harness.
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Re: 2002 rodeo transmission problem

Postby Buster28 » Sun Apr 23, 2017 4:40 am

The 4L30e transmission used in a 2002 Rodeo does not have a PWM TCC, only 00-02 Trooper and 02-03 Axiom 4L30e transmissions have a PWM TCC.
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Re: 2002 rodeo transmission problem

Postby Tg16 » Sun Apr 23, 2017 11:25 am

Ok thats weird and good to
Know.


Does anyone know the proper part number for the shift shaft seal.

Its leaking badly.

All parts places told me i have wtong trans
1998 SLX
2000 Trooper
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Re: 2002 rodeo transmission problem

Postby Buster28 » Sun Apr 23, 2017 2:13 pm

Tg16 wrote:Does anyone know the proper part number for the shift shaft seal

The Honda/Isuzu part number is 8-08644-709-0
http://parts.sonshonda.com/products/GAS ... 709-0.html
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Re: 2002 rodeo transmission problem

Postby diychw » Tue May 02, 2017 8:54 am

I am new to site, just bought a 02 rodeo 3.2l made in 12/01, has a rebuilt 4L30E. Two problems found driving home. First is P0502 Vehicle Speed Sensor A circuit low input. I know this is true as the odometer and speedometer will not work. I knew I would need to check the vss on the rear of the tranny. I just want to know the correct part as I believe I will need a new one if it is not the wires shorted to the plug or the connection corroded. Can I use aftermarket Transmission speed sensor and is this a three or two wire version?
Second the fluid smells just slightly off for an 18 mo rebuild and P0757 A/T Shift solenoid B performance (stuck on) code shows now. I believe with the hesitation to shift from 2-3 or even have to let off accelerator to shift if rpms run up before shift would indicate the code is correct. Can I just drop pan and disconnect valve body to replace solenoid b? Of course I will drain and clean fluid as it is probably a filter clogged on solenoid or should I look at other issues that would cause these actions with the two codes?
And if so any one have proceedure manual hint as I have desire to do this my self since I knew this would be a project when I bought it. Thanks in advance from first time isuzu owner.
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Re: 2002 rodeo transmission problem

Postby Buster28 » Tue May 02, 2017 3:11 pm

diychw wrote:I am new to site, just bought a 02 rodeo 3.2l made in 12/01, has a rebuilt 4L30E. Two problems found driving home. First is P0502 Vehicle Speed Sensor A circuit low input. I know this is true as the odometer and speedometer will not work. I knew I would need to check the vss on the rear of the tranny. I just want to know the correct part as I believe I will need a new one if it is not the wires shorted to the plug or the connection corroded. Can I use aftermarket Transmission speed sensor and is this a three or two wire version?
Second the fluid smells just slightly off for an 18 mo rebuild and P0757 A/T Shift solenoid B performance (stuck on) code shows now. I believe with the hesitation to shift from 2-3 or even have to let off accelerator to shift if rpms run up before shift would indicate the code is correct. Can I just drop pan and disconnect valve body to replace solenoid b? Of course I will drain and clean fluid as it is probably a filter clogged on solenoid or should I look at other issues that would cause these actions with the two codes?
And if so any one have proceedure manual hint as I have desire to do this my self since I knew this would be a project when I bought it. Thanks in advance from first time isuzu owner.


The Transmission Speed Sensor (TSS) and the Vehicle Speed Sensor (VSS) are not the same component. DTC P0502 involves a problem with the VSS which is a 3 wire device. The parts store price is about 200 bucks, but I seen them on ebay for as little as 9 bucks. This thread discusses a VSS problem on a 01 Rodeo Sport which has the same VSS as your 02 : viewtopic.php?f=1&t=108393

This thread discusses replacement of the shift solenoids: viewtopic.php?f=4&t=107985
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Re: 2002 rodeo transmission problem

Postby diychw » Wed May 03, 2017 12:16 am

Thanks Buster28 I have read both the the other threads. VSS was spot on. I now have more questions after reading the solenoid thread for shifting issues. My 4L30e on the 02 Rodeo will drive great while cold when "D" selection on shifter and both POWER and WINTER off, When it heats up It will start out normal L to 2 then 2-3 hesitates or revs with no transmission until I let off throttle then press accelerator and it bumps to 3rd and then goes to 4th with no issues until I drop speed back down. If I manually select L 2 3 D nothing changes when warm, still seems not to want to shift to third until let off accelerator then press it hard. I know this symptom is why I have the P0757 A/T Shift solenoid B performance (stuck on) code . Could it be anything other than the b solenoid? I will want to check the wiring harness when I open it. And Is there a thread on the removal, teardown and rebuild of this transmission on this website?
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Re: 2002 rodeo transmission problem

Postby Buster28 » Wed May 03, 2017 12:09 pm

DTC P0757 is set when the PCM detects a 1221 shift pattern as opposed to the normal 1234. However, you indicate the transmission will shift into 4th gear so the B solenoid cannot be stuck "On" (hydraulic fluid port shut). The state of the B shift solenoid and the associated B shift valve is the same for 3rd gear and 4th gear. Before you tear anything apart drain the ATF sump and refill to the correct level with fresh fluid. If the fluid is really dirty change the fluid again after 25 miles more or less.

There is no step by step tutorial on rebuilding the transmission that I am aware of. There are some reference documents available on the web.
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Re: 2002 rodeo transmission problem

Postby diychw » Mon May 08, 2017 10:03 pm

Okay. I am reporting how the repair went to fix the P0757 code on my 02 Rodeo with 3.2l 2wd for anyone else that is reading as with this thread I was able to solve my DTC that reported Solenoid B on the 4L30e stuck open. I did drain as Buster28 suggested before throwing parts at it, to see if it would solve the hesitation shifting to 3rd. It did not so I drained again and was able to do the following to get the transmission to shift normal and not throw the DTC P0757 again. I removed both front and rear pans all the 10 mm bolts and found a lot of black grit (clutch material) and black Fluid that smelled slightly burned. There was very little metal on the magnet (Thank goodness).

BTW: My transmission is equipped with different fill plug and drain plug than described in all the literature and posts I have read. I have none on the passenger side above the pan,and did not want to use oil cooler lines like the last transmission shop I took this to said to do. Both my drain (floor of pan) and fill (Step up in lower part of rear pan) used allen wrench to torque off. It required 150 ft/pd to remove, like they were never used before after painting (hence the blackish fluid after 191k Miles).

After I removed the 10 mm bolts for the pans, pans came free easily with slight tap rubber mallet. Big drain pan under to catch pans gasket and fluid as I only lifted vehicle 8 inches from normal to get plenty of clearance. Three more bolts hold the filter in place to the valve body, I believe they are 13 mm on mine. Then I removed one more of the 13 mm valve body bolts by the Shift solenoid A to access the two roll pins for A and B solenoids. I unclipped the wiring harness from solenoids. Very careful here as they are extremely brittle now after so much time with the heat.

Roll pins were the most difficult due to being upside down on vehicle, so I ended up using side cutting wire pliers (brand new and large) and slowly and very small increments levered them out with very little surface change or marring. Then the solenoids were in tight with those o-rings and they pop out toward the front of the transmission. Note the tabs on each as they are different and will only go back in the tab from A points toward B and the tab from B points toward A with the wiring connectors facing down as the o-ring and strainer side pops snug back in. I used a little pressure and they seated well after lubricating with transmission fluid. Tap the roll pins back in the valve body to the same depth as before they were removed. Do not hit the new solenoids, I avoided this by placing a 1/4 inch section of metal strip over the roll pins after initially seating and used a very small mallet. Clip wiring harness back on make sure it is routed back in the valve body correctly where the channels are and place the filter in with the three valve body bolts and do not forget that 4th bolt by A solenoid.

To avoid a lot of pumping I placed two quarts in rear pan and one quart in front pan when placing back up. Make sure gasket in place and both transmission case and pan seal areas are very clean. Tighten in cross pattern from the middle out seat the new gasket and avoid warping pan surface. I found a torque spec and think it showed 70 inch pounds for the pan bolts. I placed Thread sealant on them as I reused the bolts even though In one place I saw it recommended to use new washers and bolts, as I had to drain both pans twice to clean out all the black fluid. I used the pan fill hole located in the step of the bottom pan, to pump fluid in with the same pump I bought at boat shop to fill lower boat units with gear oil. The $3 fluid pump screws into the quart of transmission fluid and I placed a section of tubing on the out flow into the pan fill hole after removing the plug, and I had to do this twice, The first time it flowed out, I had not yet pumped the fluid into the torque converter and so I had to run the vehicle for a bit and get the transmission at body temperature, cycled all the gears then left on and in neutral on flat ground and opened fill hole with allen wrench kept close by and pumped again until it flowed out again and quickly placed the plug with the allen wrench.

I am happy to say after all the help from Buster28 and others I have a smooth shifting vehicle and did not have to rebuild the whole transmission. The DTC P0757 Solenoid B stuck open, has not come back in the past week. I hope this follow up helps someone else in the future as I definitely appreciate the helpful hints others have shared with me. Please feel free to correct anything I did wrong, as this is the first auto transmission valve body work I have done.

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