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2001 Trooper Auto 4L30E to Manual AR5 w/TOD swap

74K views 142 replies 23 participants last post by  flydex28 
#1 · (Edited by Moderator)
Well after a couple of years of owning the Trooper the auto transmission has started to go. So instead of having it replaced at a cost of $4,000, (local shop), I decided to swap it to the AR5 attached to the TOD transfer case instead.

I want to make this thread a detailed guide of sorts with links to other threads, videos, and lots of photos so that anyone else that wants to do this swap can reference this and have some of the guesswork taken out or at least get some ideas. Hopefully, it will help someone with their swap. I will keep updating this thread until I'm completely done.

Here is a list of all the parts needed for the swap:
AR5 transmission
OEM clutch kit
OEM Flywheel bolts
OEM Pressure plate bolts
OEM Rear main seal
Clutch pedal assembly (99 Trooper)
OEM flywheel (used/resurfaced)
OEM brake/clutch pedal pads
OEM clutch hard line and softline
Center console
OEM master cylinder
OEM slave cylinder
2002 trooper Manual ECU
New rubber h/p fuel lines (rear lines are too short if using the Manual hard fuel lines)

Various Nuts & Bolts you may need to buy:
Transmission:.....one - 80mm (m12x1.25)
Transmission:.....three - 45mm (m12x1.75)
Dust Shields:......two - 45mm (6mm x 1.0) and one 6mm nut.
Slave Cylinder:...two - 30mm (10mm x 1.5)
Clutch Pedal Bracket:...two - 8mm x 1.25 nuts w/ washers

I also bought a few tools for the job as well. I picked up a clutch alignment tool, 17mm 0* offset wrench, clutch bleeder, and a floor jack because I was always having to borrow one from someone.
I was trying to shoot for around $1,500 dollars but I exceeded that a little bit...closer to $2,000. I can put my costs up later if anyone wants them.
I started working on it last week and have been taking pictures, so hopefully, I can get those posted if Photobucket wants to cooperate with me.

Helpful Links:
VX 5 Speed Swap
https://forum.planetisuzoo.com/viewtopi ... speed+swap
Has anyone put an AR5 in a 3.2 Trooper?
https://forum.planetisuzoo.com/viewtopi ... 22&t=72724
John's Auto to Manual MUA5 Transmission Swap
https://forum.planetisuzoo.com/viewtopi ... 22&t=49934
Hatfield's 2000 Trooper Build
https://forum.planetisuzoo.com/viewtopi ... 1&start=50
Christmas in July! Zaphod's VX Manual Swap Thread
https://www.planetisuzoo.com/viewtopic. ... 7#p5449247
Cruise Contol after Swap
Cruise Control after swap
Car-Part.com
Car-Part.com--Used Auto Parts Market

Videos:
Servicing Quick Connect / Quick Disconnect Pull Type Clutches

Bleeding a clutch by blocking the slave cylinder
 
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#2 ·
I started off by driving up onto my stands I made. They give me an extra 6 1/2 or 7 inches of room to work. Plus I can roll around on a creeper and not be sore as all hell the next day.
 

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#3 ·
Here was the AR5 when I brought it home from the salvage yard. I got both the transmission and transfer case (although I wont be using the regular transfer case) for $300. The transmission has 114,000 miles on it so its pretty close to what I currently have anyway.
I took it outside and hit it with some Superclean and the hose to clean it up a bit,and also removed the bell housing so I could clean and grease the fork. Looks pretty good I think.
 

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#4 ·
I found a flywheel from a 2001 trooper in Idaho. I had it shipped here and then took it in to be resurfaced.
 

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#5 ·
Next I picked up clutch and brake pedal assemblies from a 93 trooper for $65 at a slavage yard nearby and refinished the clutch pedal assembly (I later traded it out for a clutch pedal assembly from a 99 Trooper). It was pretty rusty so I disassembled the whole thing and soaked all the rusty parts in vinegar for a couple days to remove all the rust and then cleaned, painted, and reassembled the whole thing. I found if you pull a zip tie around the spring it squeezes it together and you can get it lined up in the bracket easier and then cut the tie so that it pops into place. It needed new bushings and I accidentally broke the clutch neutral safety switch by over tightening I think, but luckily I was able to get a set of bushings and a replacement switch from Jerry. Thanks.

Oh yeah I was placing an order on amazon and found these new pedals. When I ordered them it just said OES genuine brand or something like that. I think it also said it was for the Amigo, but they were pretty cheap and the reviews looked good so I ordered them. $20 for the pair. When they arrived I was pretty surprised to see genuine OEM Isuzu parts. They fit great.
 

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#6 ·
Next I tackled the brake pedal. I was basically going to just remove the pedal from my Trooper and swap it for the one from the 93... but I ran into a pretty glaring problem; the tab where the brake switch makes contact was in a completely different spot. So what I did was this:
I removed my auto brake pedal (left the bracket in place). I took the manual brake pedal and covered the pedal with masking tape to make a template. I then took that template and stuck it on the auto brake pedal and cut around it to make my own manual brake pedal. Problem solved. A hacksaw definitly wont work here. I had a angle grinder cut off wheel. Pretty proud of myself actually, although I probably could have saved myself a few dollars. Oh well, good learning experience anyway.
 

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#7 ·
This week I drained the transmission pan, removed the transfer case skid plate, removed the front driveline first, and then the rear driveline. For the drivelines you will need an 8mm hex head wrench or socket and 14mm wrench and sockets with a 6inch extension and probably a breaker bar. The front driveline was stuck on there but I was able to finally persuade it free. I then removed the center console and ducting that runs under it. Next I just started unplugging all the connectors that were attached to the shifter assembly, unbolted the assembly itself, and lifted it out.
Today I removed the Range Mode Sensor and finished disconnecting the rest of the harness on the transmission. I think anyway. There are some wires coming off the rear of the TOD unit that wind up above it...not 100% sure where they go yet.
I also sprayed some penetrating fluid on the exhaust bolts because I'm not sure if I will have to remove that "Y" section of pipe that goes underneath where the rear driveline bolts to the transfer case.
Does anyone know if I remove the transfer case before pulling the transmission how far back the transfer case will need to go before I can lower it?
So that's where I'm at right now. Progress is slow because I don't get a lot of time to work on it and I'm doing it all by myself.
 
#8 ·
Looking good.

We have been looking at a 95 with a manual trans for a project in the future. To put in either one of our 99s with autos.

I will be following this thread closely.
 
#9 ·
Nice work so far. Transmission and all parts look great. Good buy for 300 plus extras. Good luck and I don't know how far back transfer case will go,but someone will chime that's know. Tony
 
#10 ·
Thanks.. Hopefully this goes fairly smoothly. I tried to get everything I needed before hand but I still need a couple more things. I found a place in town that rents a transmission jack for 25 bucks a day. I was thinking I could maybe remove the transfer case and transmission without it and then rent it for the install.
Hopefully I can get some more work done on it soon.

Oh yeah.. Question 2...Can I remove the front cross member without supporting anything else?
 
#11 ·
Yes you can remove front crossmember without support. That member strengthen the frame. May be bolted to skid plate too. I would rent that jack so you don't hurt yourself. $25 a day seens high. Check at AUTOZONE for

renter of trans. jack. Can't wait to see it together.

HOPE YOU READ Jwoods auto to manual swap here in Drivetrain Mods. Great information to help you. It's at the top of page.
 
#12 ·
totten said:
HOPE YOU READ Jwoods auto to manual swap here in Drivetrain Mods. Great information to help you. It's at the top of page.
Yeah its actually one of quite a few I now have bookmarked for reference...lol.
No auto zone here.. only a NAPA, Oreillys, and a Knechts, none of which rent one. I actually found the jack for rent at a saw shop of all places here in town.
 
#13 ·
I'm back, and with a bunch of pictures. I got a lot done this weekend, its been a couple weeks since I have been able to really do anything. I ended up renting that transmission jack because I was probably going to be doing it myself and honestly I didn't want to kill myself in the process. I don't think I could have just used a regular jack. That thing is heavy and put up a fight coming out because I couldn't get the drivers side exhaust pipe off. I was able to remove the rear bolts, but the front upper ones would not budge even after soaking them every other day and trying two different impacts... so it is possible, just a bitch.
 

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#14 ·
I got the transmission out the next day. I was out in the garage for 9 hours but got it out in the end. I had to return the jack early the next morning so it pretty much had to be done that day. I am also convinced now that this transmission has been removed in the past on worked on before. I found that when removing the transfer case, one of the bolts was pretty loose, one of the transmission mount bolt holes was stripped, and one of the torque converter bolts was different than the rest. The one that was different was a 13mm flange bolt. That freaked me out at first but luckily it wasn't too tight and I was able to get a regular 13mm end wrench on it and remove it. In fact none of the those bolts were really on there too tight. Really snug but not too bad. My wife actually helped me here by holding the crank pulley for me while I loosened the torque converter bolts. The crank pulley bolt is 24mm btw. Anyway I started off by reattaching the rear cross member and transmission mount, and removing the front cross member. I then removed the access panel under the bell housing to get to the torque converter bolts. It sounds like there are several different ways to get to those bolts but I ordered a 17mm 0 offset wrench and WOW it was perfect. It was like it was specifically designed for this. I would would definitely recommend spending the $25 to get one. I ordered mine from ebay. http://www.ebay.com/itm/Genius-Tools-Ex ... Jd55f8Nysg
 

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#15 ·
Once I got that done I started removing the top bell housing bolts. OMG those top ones SUUUUUUCK! I reached them by using like 2 feet of extension and a 1/2 drive ratchet up through the hole where the shifter goes. One tip is to remove the rear cross member and tip the engine back by lowering the rear of the transmission with a floor jack. But since I apparently like to make things difficult on myself, I chose to not do this. The bellhousing bolts (with the exception of the two bottom ones are 17mm and in my case were apparently tightened down by a very large gorilla. I started with the very top ones using a 17mm socket to a 3/8 universal adapter to the extensions then an adapter to a 1/2 drive ratchet. When this didn't work I added a 2 foot cheater bar and pushed as hard as I could until it busted the 3/8 universal in half. Much swearing ensued. I then replaced the universal with my 1/2 in. drive universal and that barely held up. It actually broke something in it because the pin fell out, but I was able to reassemble it and keep the pin in place by wrapping the whole thing in electrical tape. Plus as a bonus the universal doesn't wobble around as much when you are trying to guide it to the bolt. I also wrapped every joint where the extensions hooked together with tape to keep them from coming apart. But man every time those bolts broke free with that really loud POP, I was scared those bolts were gong to shear with how hard I was having to push. So you have to do that 6 times and then the final two 14mm bolts were easy. There are also 3 or 4 10mm bolts you need to remove on the dust cover either side of the bottom of the bell housing
I left I think 2 or 3 bottom bell housing bolts in place before supporting the transmission with the transmission jack. Once I got the jack in place I removed the last bolts and carefully wiggled the transmission free where it promptly got hung up on that damn exhaust pipe on one side, and the pulley on the front differential on the other side. Long story short and more shaking and adjusting the transmission around I finally got it out, but it almost slipped off the back of the jack a couple times. I had to stop and add a chain around the back of it to keep it on the jack. It is out though.
 

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#16 ·
Also I don't know if anyone noticed, but in that picture of the transmission on the floor and the last picture of the flexplate, you may notice I didn't even bother removing the transmission fluid lines..I just said screw it and took a hacksaw to them. It was getting late in the day and those were just two more hard to remove bolts I just didn't feel like messing with. I will remove the rest of the lines later.
 
#18 ·
Well honestly I didn't go that route because I didn't have a donor vehicle. Finding one, around here anyway, seemed next to impossible. There was a post in the classifieds a few months after I started rounding up everything I needed for the swap for a 2001 manual trooper( Might still be in there, I think it was in classifieds anyway). I believe it had some electrical issues, but it probably would have worked great if I hadn't already bought half of what I needed at that point. Plus it was on my side of the country.

When I found the transmission at a local salvage yard I was excited because I figured I could get everything I needed in one trip. Unfortunately they had already taken the Trooper to the crusher and that was all they had left... not even the ECU, which sucks. I still need a couple more things but I've had good luck so far, and people on here have been awesome helping out. Anyway I read several posts about people combining the two with great results so I figured I would go for it. Plus, I have the regular manual transfer case I can set aside if I ever need it, I would just need to round up some manual hubs and the front driveshaft.
 
#19 ·
I didn't get much work done this last weekend. I removed the flex plate which actually came off pretty easy. I just used a cordless Craftsman impact that I borrowed. There were 8 17mm bolts holding it on. I also finished removing the transmission fluid lines I had cut in half that were still attached to the radiator. In order to plug the lines where they come off the radiator, I decided to just use one of the rubber hoses that connects the transmission lines and make a "U" and plug each end onto the openings.
The only other thing I did was remove the transfer case from the AR5 and remove that threaded stud that was left sticking out. I bought main output and input shaft seals from Rock Auto but the output shaft seal I got is too big. I honestly don't know if I should even bother changing them out. I don't see any signs that it had been leaking. I also don't know what is behind that cover around the shaft on the front of the transmission. Is that seal easy to change or do I just leave it alone?
I'm going to try and get some more work done this weekend and drive over to Eugene to get a clutch line made. Maybe go to NAPA and see if they have the right seals.
 

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#20 ·
So another weekend of not getting a lot done. I removed the auto pilot bushing that was in there. I used a slide hammer that my brother had and after a few minutes of hitting, it finally came out. Here's a really useful tip: I found that the auto bushing actually makes a really good tool to insert the new Manual pilot bearing if you slightly grind away some of the inner part of the bearing. It fits perfectly over the bearing and you can tap it right in with a hammer.

I ended up driving to Eugene also to have a clutch line made although it cost more than I was expecting. The shop custom made a steel fitting with a 180* bend off the master with a 4 foot section of rubber DOT brake tubing to the steel banjo bolt fitting on the end for the slave cylinder. I wanted the braided stainless line but it would have cost like 30% more and the rubber line I had made cost $85. Probably a little high but I didn't have time to search more shops to try and find a better deal. He told me they test those lines to like 3400 PSI or something like that and flexing in the tube shouldn't be an issue as the clutch really comes nowhere close to the PSI of brakes.
***EDIT***DO NOT USE RUBBER BRAKE LINE... USE STAINLESS LINE, OEM HARDLINE, OR MAKE YOU'RE OWN HARDLINE!!!***

The last thing I did this weekend was remove the hollow dowel pins from the back of the engine and relocate them to the outer dowel pin locations instead. If you don't move them you wont be able to install the new bell housing. I just used a pair of channel locks and twisted them out and then used a Dremel to sand down the marks left in the dowel pins from the channel locks. Then tap them into their new locations.
Oh yeah I also located a Manual ECU, so that should be on its way as well.
 

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#21 ·
When I removed the flexplate, there was this thin metal spacer under the bolts. Anybody know if I am supposed to reuse it on the Flywheel?
 

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#22 ·
flydex28 said:
When I removed the flexplate, there was this thin metal spacer under the bolts. Anybody know if I am supposed to reuse it on the Flywheel?

YES PUT THAT SPACER/SHIM BACK ON THE MANUAL FLYWHEEL, , BOTH USE THE SAME PT NO. THAT SIM IS BASICALLY FOR PROTECTING THE SURFACE OF THE FLYWHEEL, SOP THAT THE BOLTS DONT DIG IN , TAKE A LOOK AT THE SHIM AND YOU CAN SEE WHERE THE ORIG BOLTS WERE SCARRING THE SHIM. BETTER THE SHIM THAN THE FLYWHEEL.
 
#23 ·
Thanks Jerry, I'll make sure to re-use it. I noticed there was a picture in the FSM of the spacer but I don't think it specified between auto and manual.

I made a little progress this week. I ordered an ECU from a 2002 Manual Trooper from a salvage yard in Colorado and it came in. I was going to have my current auto ECU re-programmed but figured this would be easier. So I pretty much have everything I need know I think. I also finally got that dang drivers side exhaust off. Took a few weeks of spraying the manifold to downpipe bolts every few days before they would finally come off with an impact wrench. I'm glad those bolts didn't shear (I think they are actually studs), I don't know how I would have gotten them out. Probably would have had to try and remove the exhaust manifold. I'm pretty sure you cant get the AR5 back up in there with the exhaust in place due to the bigger bell housing. I barely got the auto out.

I also got the master cylinder installed but I still need to install the clutch pedal assembly. The clutch line I had made was 48 inches and its a little too long. But for $85 I'm going to have to make it work. I routed it under the master cylinder and made a loop that circles around the front and then back down along the frame where the other hard lines are. It is just hanging there now until I get some hose clamps to hold it in place.

Another issue I have come across now is routing the wire harness around the bellhousing where it comes out from below the starter. The AR5 bellhousing is bigger and the auto harness is thicker so you have to stretch it around the edge and thru the heat shield that bolts to the bell housing. I'm wondering if I can cut off wires that go to connectors I wont need (or remove them), to make the wire bundle thinner. It also looks like I might need to fabricate some sort of heat shield for the slave cylinder like the stock one had. Mine didn't come with one.

You can see how I had to loop the clutch line around to use up some of the length. I might try to route it under that wiring and than get some clamps to hold it in place.
 

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#25 ·
flydex28 said:
Thanks Jerry, I'll make sure to re-use it. I noticed there was a picture in the FSM of the spacer but I don't think it specified between auto and manual.

I made a little progress this week. I ordered an ECU from a 2002 Manual Trooper from a salvage yard in Colorado and it came in. I was going to have my current auto ECU re-programmed but figured this would be easier. So I pretty much have everything I need know I think. I also finally got that dang drivers side exhaust off. Took a few weeks of spraying the manifold to downpipe bolts every few days before they would finally come off with an impact wrench. I'm glad those bolts didn't shear (I think they are actually studs), I don't know how I would have gotten them out. Probably would have had to try and remove the exhaust manifold. I'm pretty sure you cant get the AR5 back up in there with the exhaust in place due to the bigger bell housing. I barely got the auto out.

I also got the master cylinder installed but I still need to install the clutch pedal assembly. The clutch line I had made was 48 inches and its a little too long. But for $85 I'm going to have to make it work. I routed it under the master cylinder and made a loop that circles around the front and then back down along the frame where the other hard lines are. It is just hanging there now until I get some hose clamps to hold it in place.

Another issue I have come across now is routing the wire harness around the bellhousing where it comes out from below the starter. The AR5 bellhousing is bigger and the auto harness is thicker so you have to stretch it around the edge and thru the heat shield that bolts to the bell housing. I'm wondering if I can cut off wires that go to connectors I wont need (or remove them), to make the wire bundle thinner. It also looks like I might need to fabricate some sort of heat shield for the slave cylinder like the stock one had. Mine didn't come with one.
SOME OF THOSE WIRE CAN BE ELIMINATED THAT GO UP TO THE DASH BOARD , . I WILL GET YOU THE COLOR CODES OF THE ONES THAT YOU COULD CUT BACK, ,BUT YOU WILL NEED TO USE PROB 4-5 OF THEM , FOR THE MANUAL TRANS, I WILL TRY AND GET YOUR PLUG ADAPTER DONE THIS WEEK. , YOU WILL HAVE TO BUILD YOUR OWN HEAT SHEILD FOR THE HARNESS AROUND THE STARTER AND THE DUST SEAL FOR THE LOWER EDGES OF THE BELL HOUSING , THEY ARE NO LONGER AVAILABLE .
 
#26 ·
Awesome... I'm looking for some scrap metal to make a heat shield.
I ran into a potential problem today. I got the clutch pedal assembly mounted and the pedal attached to the master cylinder, but when I pushed in the clutch pedal, the clutch switch keeps popping out of its track that it slides in.
 
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