John's 2000 Trooper V8 SAS

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Re: John's 2000 Trooper V8 SAS

Postby Johnthegoon » Mon Dec 19, 2016 6:09 pm

All right, so my shock towers arrived the other day. I have access to a tubing bender and thought for a long time about making some shock hoops, but then I got over myself and just decided to use some pre-made ones. I got these F-250 shock towers for $25 each. After materials, effort, design and fab time, it just makes more sense than derping with hoops. They're formed from 1/4" plate and they're good for a lot more weight than I'll be putting on them. They're also designed to be held in place with just two bolts through the frame. I ditched that plan and welded the snot out of them, using the bolt holes as rosettes.

My buddy had a generic off-road shock with a 10-inch stroke that we used for setting the height, and then burned them. I'm super stoked that I get to use the factory shock mounts on the axle.

IMG_4257.JPG

IMG_4258.JPG

I posted this picture on Facebook earlier, but here it is suspended at full droop. From here I cycled the steering left and right to determine how long a brake line I needed. Russell sells custom length lines, and those got to the house today, but it'll be after the new year before I get back home long enough to install and pressure test them.

IMG_4250.JPG
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~~John
Current zu: 2000 Trooper, SAS with V8 conversion, dual battery, homemade roof rack, homemade rear storage, DC-AC inverter, Custom hail damage - Bought in Oct 2010 w/ 151k.
Build threads: viewtopic.php?f=1&t=67783 - viewtopic.php?f=22&t=82355

Previous zu: 1992 Rodeo XS, 4x4 TBI V6 5-spd, Shackle lift and T-bar crank, on-board air. Bought Jan 2003 w/ 161k - given to a family @ church, winter 2006
2001 Chevy Silverado 2500HD
2013 Audi S5
2013 Honda Odyssey
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Re: John's 2000 Trooper V8 SAS

Postby Johnthegoon » Sat Jan 28, 2017 11:37 am

Ok, so finally got back to it about a week or so ago.. I started by doing a bunch of little junk that doesn't photograph well. I got the fuel tank all buttoned back up and the skid plate reinstalled, got some more wiring tidied up and started running some of the vacuum lines.

I made a little bracket to mount the vacuum canister for the cruise control and got it plumbed.

IMG_4477.JPG

Also on the wiring front, since it seems like the world has (for now) agreed on USB for the power-source of choice, I picked up a multi-USB charger for phones, GPS, my kids video game, etc.

IMG_4475.JPG
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~~John
Current zu: 2000 Trooper, SAS with V8 conversion, dual battery, homemade roof rack, homemade rear storage, DC-AC inverter, Custom hail damage - Bought in Oct 2010 w/ 151k.
Build threads: viewtopic.php?f=1&t=67783 - viewtopic.php?f=22&t=82355

Previous zu: 1992 Rodeo XS, 4x4 TBI V6 5-spd, Shackle lift and T-bar crank, on-board air. Bought Jan 2003 w/ 161k - given to a family @ church, winter 2006
2001 Chevy Silverado 2500HD
2013 Audi S5
2013 Honda Odyssey
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Radiator!

Postby Johnthegoon » Sat Jan 28, 2017 12:06 pm

Next up is the radiator. Completing the water circuit and the transmission fluid circuit are the last steps between here and engine start!

I bought what I thought was going to be cheapo radiator from Summit that was the right dimensions for the opening I had. When it arrived, it was branded Summit, but it had the instructions from Griffin, so I'm calling that a bargain.

I went back and forth and looked in lots of forums for other people's mounting methods and came up with something that works pretty well. The radiator has C-channel running top and bottom to protect the core. I had some 1/8" x 3" strip that I cut down to fit inside the C-channel, and placed it such that the radiator sat down on it for a nice full-length support. It's supported by some 1" sqaure tubing that's cut on the 45 and welded to the front crossmember - the whole cooling system will be supported by the frame without any connection to the body.

IMG_4496.JPG

I also cut and bent some 1/8", and then gouged slots in it, to be the supports for the stock AC condenser bushings and welded them in place in front of the radiator.

I thought hard about electric fans and/or flex fan, but in the end I decided to go with a traditional engine-driven fan with a clutch. There's enough space behind the 2.5-gen grill to make it work. Here's the clearance between the clutch and the radiator. It's tight, but with everything mounted to the frame, I feel OK about it.

IMG_4491.JPG

I made some uprights out of the 1" tubing, and put in some bolt-joints so they could be removable for service, and then used the bench vise and a hammer to shape some brackets to be the top support for the AC condenser.

IMG_4494.JPG

Continuing upwards, everything wraps around to attach to another 1/8" strip in the top C-channel to clamp the radiator in place. There's a 1/4" strip of black rubber bushing material between the radiator and the support strips both top and bottom. I don't love the way the passenger side came out - it was tougher because of the radiator cap - I may wind up re-doing that one, but for now it works.

IMG_4499.JPG

IMG_4501.JPG

I test-fit the grill over it and it's perfect, plenty of space still there for a transmission cooler, the mounts for that is the next fab project. The passenger headlight fits without any restriction. The driver's headlight needs to massaged a bit to get around the new position of the AC dryer but it should be doable.

One step closer!
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~~John
Current zu: 2000 Trooper, SAS with V8 conversion, dual battery, homemade roof rack, homemade rear storage, DC-AC inverter, Custom hail damage - Bought in Oct 2010 w/ 151k.
Build threads: viewtopic.php?f=1&t=67783 - viewtopic.php?f=22&t=82355

Previous zu: 1992 Rodeo XS, 4x4 TBI V6 5-spd, Shackle lift and T-bar crank, on-board air. Bought Jan 2003 w/ 161k - given to a family @ church, winter 2006
2001 Chevy Silverado 2500HD
2013 Audi S5
2013 Honda Odyssey
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Re: John's 2000 Trooper V8 SAS

Postby totten » Sun Jan 29, 2017 9:57 pm

Almost ready to fire up . Nice fab work and pictures.
2004 rodeo 4x4,3.2,auto Calmini 3" lift, Zone 2" Body Lift, 285/75/16 Mastercraft Courser HXT Tires. Cobra 29LTD CB,Transmission cooler,Functional hood scoop,Skyjacker shocks 8000,Swaybars removed.
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Re: John's 2000 Trooper V8 SAS

Postby flydex28 » Mon Jan 30, 2017 8:36 pm

This is awesome! Cant wait to see it done.
-Chris-

2001 Isuzu Trooper LS, 4X4, 3.5L, AR-5 w/TOD swap, OME 919
Transmission swap thread: viewtopic.php?f=22&t=87739
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Re: John's 2000 Trooper V8 SAS

Postby Johnthegoon » Mon Feb 20, 2017 12:37 pm

Have actually made a fair amount of progress lately, and I let this thread get behind, so I'll try and catch us up. The last bit of the radiator install was making sure I could actually fit all the body over everything. There's a ton of room behind the stock grille, but when I moved the AC radiator forward, now the canister is in the way. The stock headlight bracket has a support for the plastic grill, and that support bends right through where the canister now lives. I cut and bent some strips of 1/8" and welded them on in such a way that they would clear the canister, then I cut away the piece that would interfere. By welding first and cutting second, I was sure that the original bracket would still end up in the right place for the grille.
In the pic below, the passenger side is stock and the driver's side should mirror that, but I had to go around that piping.

IMG_4654.JPG

It works!

IMG_4505.JPG

Next is the bracket for the transfer case shifter. I used the shifter out of the stock TOD unit, which is nice because it has its own mounting plate and pivot built in. It also holds itself in just about the right height and orientation when you stick it through the boot in the console. I cut and drilled a plate to mount the shifter through, then made some tabs to mount to the transmission/tcase, then put everything in the right place and bridged the gap with some more plate and tacked everything together.
Here's how it fits in the truck.

IMG_4511.JPG

And here it is with another strengthening gusset and a few coats of paint.

IMG_4576.JPG

I can't do anything about making a linkage to the transfer case until I get it installed and see what I need.
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~~John
Current zu: 2000 Trooper, SAS with V8 conversion, dual battery, homemade roof rack, homemade rear storage, DC-AC inverter, Custom hail damage - Bought in Oct 2010 w/ 151k.
Build threads: viewtopic.php?f=1&t=67783 - viewtopic.php?f=22&t=82355

Previous zu: 1992 Rodeo XS, 4x4 TBI V6 5-spd, Shackle lift and T-bar crank, on-board air. Bought Jan 2003 w/ 161k - given to a family @ church, winter 2006
2001 Chevy Silverado 2500HD
2013 Audi S5
2013 Honda Odyssey
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Re: John's 2000 Trooper V8 SAS

Postby Johnthegoon » Mon Feb 20, 2017 12:54 pm

Anyway, once that stuff was fit and done, that was really the end of mock-up, so it's time to build it for real. The engine came out again, and I spent like all stinking day with a wire wheel and flap disc, cleaning, prepping, priming and painting the frame and all the other raw parts I'd made.

IMG_4514.JPG

I didn't show where I made the mounts for the bump stops, but this pic shows the bump-stops and the brake flex lines installed. It took a long time to bleed the master cylinder and then all the brakes, but they're bled with no leaks (which frankly is shocking to me, as I'd never made double-flares before this project).

IMG_4539.JPG

I went to the junk-yard and found a trooper with an intact steering boot, pulled its steering shaft for $10 and salvaged the boot to use on mine, and then got all the steering stuff re-installed for (hopefully) the final time.
Then it was time to prime the oil pump and put the engine back in for the last time.

IMG_4541.JPG

IMG_4542.JPG


We got it put in, got the actual transfer case installed (we'd previously been using an empty case for mockup), and I took measurements and dropped off my stock rear driveshaft for modification and balancing. I got the distributor set roughly correct and plugged in the wires. This engine was previously setup with a coil-on-cap HEI, so I was missing a coil wire for my remote ignition coil. None of the local box stores sell single coil wires in 8mm, so I had to order Accel's "single wire repair kit" and make one for it.

Then came a ton of wires, water hoses, vacuum hoses, fuel lines, evap lines, etc.

IMG_4543.JPG
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~~John
Current zu: 2000 Trooper, SAS with V8 conversion, dual battery, homemade roof rack, homemade rear storage, DC-AC inverter, Custom hail damage - Bought in Oct 2010 w/ 151k.
Build threads: viewtopic.php?f=1&t=67783 - viewtopic.php?f=22&t=82355

Previous zu: 1992 Rodeo XS, 4x4 TBI V6 5-spd, Shackle lift and T-bar crank, on-board air. Bought Jan 2003 w/ 161k - given to a family @ church, winter 2006
2001 Chevy Silverado 2500HD
2013 Audi S5
2013 Honda Odyssey
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Re: John's 2000 Trooper V8 SAS

Postby Johnthegoon » Mon Feb 20, 2017 1:05 pm

Here's the plug wires clipped to the block... I just like this picture.

IMG_4558.JPG

I bought a new starter battery, then installed and hooked up both of the batteries in the dual battery system.

I re-used the hard lines for the transmission cooler, as they were pre-bent really clean around the starter and block, etc by the previous owner, but naturally they weren't the right shape or length to hook up to the cooler ports on my radiator, and I'm running an external cooler anyway, so I whipped up a quick little bracket, bent them out to clear everything and cut em off short, and used the brake flare tool to put a little bulb on the end.

IMG_4645.JPG

I filled the transmission and just put a loop of hose on the cooler lines temporarily, and it was ready to try for the first start.

There's a video on facebook, and if I figure out how to post it here, I'll come back and edit the post,

Edit* http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=xV2BCbs7ePU --but the short story is that it started right up on the first crank. It died immediately (probably purging the fuel lines). On the second crank, it started and stayed running! I only let it run about 30 seconds - it had no exhaust so it was obnoxious (but also pretty boss), had no radiator or coolant and the serpentine belt wasn't hooked up, but it ran!

I put the shocks (Bilstein) and wheels on quickly and flat-towed it out to get the exhaust put on. It towed like a dream, I guess I got the caster right.

IMG_4602.JPG
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~~John
Current zu: 2000 Trooper, SAS with V8 conversion, dual battery, homemade roof rack, homemade rear storage, DC-AC inverter, Custom hail damage - Bought in Oct 2010 w/ 151k.
Build threads: viewtopic.php?f=1&t=67783 - viewtopic.php?f=22&t=82355

Previous zu: 1992 Rodeo XS, 4x4 TBI V6 5-spd, Shackle lift and T-bar crank, on-board air. Bought Jan 2003 w/ 161k - given to a family @ church, winter 2006
2001 Chevy Silverado 2500HD
2013 Audi S5
2013 Honda Odyssey
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Re: John's 2000 Trooper V8 SAS

Postby Johnthegoon » Mon Feb 20, 2017 4:44 pm

I got to the exhaust shop around 4pm - they do a lot of custom stuff for hot rods and 4x4s, but the V8 isuzu got a lot of respect from the guys there, felt kinda cool. It wasn't ready until the next morning, but he managed to do a really clean routing, pretty close to the frame with lots of clearance on all the tricky bits. I had him put a catalytic converter on there, but that may have been a mistake. My county doesn't require it for inspection, but my conscience felt it was the right thing to do - I don't need every single ounce of power the motor can create, and I can financially afford the extra $$ for the cat, so why not be nice to the spotted owls? Well, one good reason that I had totally forgotten about is that this is a flat-tappet engine and needs high ZDDP motor oil to keep itself alive. High ZDDP motor oil poisons catalytic converters, so something's gotta give, and it sure as heck isn't going to be the engine -- sooooooo, the cat may be dead in 10k-20k miles and may have been a waste of money.. oh well.
~~John
Current zu: 2000 Trooper, SAS with V8 conversion, dual battery, homemade roof rack, homemade rear storage, DC-AC inverter, Custom hail damage - Bought in Oct 2010 w/ 151k.
Build threads: viewtopic.php?f=1&t=67783 - viewtopic.php?f=22&t=82355

Previous zu: 1992 Rodeo XS, 4x4 TBI V6 5-spd, Shackle lift and T-bar crank, on-board air. Bought Jan 2003 w/ 161k - given to a family @ church, winter 2006
2001 Chevy Silverado 2500HD
2013 Audi S5
2013 Honda Odyssey
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Re: John's 2000 Trooper V8 SAS

Postby Johnthegoon » Mon Feb 20, 2017 4:51 pm

I got it back home via the tow-bar, but it's freaking impossible to back up a towed car, even with someone steering it, so I couldn't put it back in the shop. Instead, I got busy on putting it all back together.

The power steering was next - it was tricky because I had an old-style 5/8" steering pump and a new-style metric steering box. No vehicle ever came from the factory with those two different fitting styles at the same time, so there was no factory line I could buy and adapt, so I bit the bullet and bought the fittings to convert the whole thing to AN-6.

IMG_4644.JPG

I got the transmission cooler lines run, and installed and plumbed the radiator. I had to use flex hose, I couldn't find anything with the right combination of bends in the preformed stuff, but the flex seems to work ok. I then put on the AC condenser and the transmission cooler and plumbed it, too.

IMG_4646.JPG

I filled everything and fired it up, and idled it into the shop. It was only 20 feet or so, but it was the first movement under its own power in like 20 months, and first ever movement with this powertrain. Felt good.

IMG_4647.JPG
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~~John
Current zu: 2000 Trooper, SAS with V8 conversion, dual battery, homemade roof rack, homemade rear storage, DC-AC inverter, Custom hail damage - Bought in Oct 2010 w/ 151k.
Build threads: viewtopic.php?f=1&t=67783 - viewtopic.php?f=22&t=82355

Previous zu: 1992 Rodeo XS, 4x4 TBI V6 5-spd, Shackle lift and T-bar crank, on-board air. Bought Jan 2003 w/ 161k - given to a family @ church, winter 2006
2001 Chevy Silverado 2500HD
2013 Audi S5
2013 Honda Odyssey
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Re: John's 2000 Trooper V8 SAS

Postby geoffinbc » Mon Feb 20, 2017 5:06 pm

Don't worry about high ZDDP oil after you break in your cam unless it is a very agressive cam with high ramp rates and spring loads. Any streetable cam should work just fine without special zinc oil. If in doubt call the cam manufacturer. Also unless your engine is burning oil it wont matter to the cat which oil you have in there.
1990 Trooper, 3.2L (3.1L .040 over) Pushrod V6, 5 speed manual. 33X10.50X15 BFG M/T KM2's. 3" OME Lift. Cowl Induction Intake. ARB Lockers front and rear. HD Tierods.
Off the road for an overhaul right now.

Big Bore Intake Kits & Greasable Shackles Here
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Re: John's 2000 Trooper V8 SAS

Postby Johnthegoon » Mon Feb 20, 2017 5:16 pm

I hacked into the wire I used for the neutral safety switch and added two more circuits. One runs in parallel with the circuit, so I can put in a switch to override the NSS if I need to, for some eventual reason. The other is in series with the NSS, so if I switch that circuit open, it can't be started, even with a hotwire, without physically jumping the starter at the solenoid. For now, these leads are just taped up and tucked under the passenger side carpet, not in use. I will eventually extend them up to my overhead switch panel (along with that tap to override the backup lights).

IMG_4599.JPG
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~~John
Current zu: 2000 Trooper, SAS with V8 conversion, dual battery, homemade roof rack, homemade rear storage, DC-AC inverter, Custom hail damage - Bought in Oct 2010 w/ 151k.
Build threads: viewtopic.php?f=1&t=67783 - viewtopic.php?f=22&t=82355

Previous zu: 1992 Rodeo XS, 4x4 TBI V6 5-spd, Shackle lift and T-bar crank, on-board air. Bought Jan 2003 w/ 161k - given to a family @ church, winter 2006
2001 Chevy Silverado 2500HD
2013 Audi S5
2013 Honda Odyssey
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Re: John's 2000 Trooper V8 SAS

Postby Johnthegoon » Mon Feb 20, 2017 5:30 pm

I spent last saturday afternoon getting it ready for an actual drive. I burped the cooling system, purged the steering fluid, topped off the transmission, filled the transfer case and both axles. I put the driver's seat in and we all went for a drive around the neighborhood. The alignment is scary, but the brakes work great and man it had good power, despite not really even being tuned. After it warmed up, we broke out the timing light and set the advance, and it ran even better (as I would hope). Going around a few corners tells me that I'm going to be fabbing some way to mount a sway bar... a little too tippy.

I noticed while it was running that the alternator isn't charging.. I did some googling and learned that I've got a Delco CS130 style alternator and I don't have it hooked up properly. I know what I did wrong but it'll be 3 or 4 more days until I have a day off to fix it. Likewise, a few of the gauges were screwy. Oil pressure and water temp were both reading pegged high - Autometer's website has a troubleshooting FAQ and I think I know the problem. Somewhere along the way, I did something that broke my voltage gauges - it's acting like a fuse but I need to check that out too. And by the sound of it, my junk-yard AC clutch isn't going to last very long, even freewheeling.

My current biggest annoyance is that I can't get to full throttle with what I've got. The isuzu pedal doesn't pull the cable far enough to get the GM TBI to WOT. I can solve this by drilling and mounting the cable lower down on the throttle arm, but I'm not looking forward to that job because I'd like to do it without removing the throttle body... we'll see. I can drive it as-is, and I still get enough movement to get to the kick-down on the transmission.
~~John
Current zu: 2000 Trooper, SAS with V8 conversion, dual battery, homemade roof rack, homemade rear storage, DC-AC inverter, Custom hail damage - Bought in Oct 2010 w/ 151k.
Build threads: viewtopic.php?f=1&t=67783 - viewtopic.php?f=22&t=82355

Previous zu: 1992 Rodeo XS, 4x4 TBI V6 5-spd, Shackle lift and T-bar crank, on-board air. Bought Jan 2003 w/ 161k - given to a family @ church, winter 2006
2001 Chevy Silverado 2500HD
2013 Audi S5
2013 Honda Odyssey
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Re: John's 2000 Trooper V8 SAS

Postby Johnthegoon » Mon Feb 20, 2017 5:56 pm

geoffinbc wrote:Don't worry about high ZDDP oil after you break in your cam unless it is a very agressive cam with high ramp rates and spring loads. Any streetable cam should work just fine without special zinc oil. If in doubt call the cam manufacturer. Also unless your engine is burning oil it wont matter to the cat which oil you have in there.


I'm glad to hear you say that.. that pretty much jives with what the general internet consensus seems to be. The people who are really having problems with low-zinc oil are the ones with crazy cam profiles and ridiculously tight springs and high-RPM high-output race motors. I did read that it can still poison the cat without oil burning or blowby -- the phosphorous volatilizes and gets into the exhaust through the PCV. I don't know if that's true, but I've decided not to worry about it. Looking at various oils, there's a Valvoline VR1 10w30 that still has elevated (more than current standards, without being crazy) ZDDP content, so I won't need to dump two tons of oil additive into it. The way I see it, refiners didn't start lowering the ZDDP content of oil until the mid-to-late 80's, and cars had cats long before that, and there wasn't a giant epidemic of exploding cats with that oil. Seems to be driven by a government mandate for 100,000 mile warranties on emissions equipment and the fact that roller-style cams didn't need the ZDDP.

I'm not losing sleep over it. My bet is that it'll be totally fine. If it's not, I'll ignore it, unless it restricts flow and power, and if it does, I'll spend $40 and have the exhaust guy cut it off.
~~John
Current zu: 2000 Trooper, SAS with V8 conversion, dual battery, homemade roof rack, homemade rear storage, DC-AC inverter, Custom hail damage - Bought in Oct 2010 w/ 151k.
Build threads: viewtopic.php?f=1&t=67783 - viewtopic.php?f=22&t=82355

Previous zu: 1992 Rodeo XS, 4x4 TBI V6 5-spd, Shackle lift and T-bar crank, on-board air. Bought Jan 2003 w/ 161k - given to a family @ church, winter 2006
2001 Chevy Silverado 2500HD
2013 Audi S5
2013 Honda Odyssey
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Re: John's 2000 Trooper V8 SAS

Postby itsmehb » Mon Feb 20, 2017 6:49 pm

Really was nice reading through your latest posts. And the sound of that v8 sounds great. What exhaust did you put on. You only mentioned one cat so did you put on a single or dual exhaust set up?
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1989 Trooper RS 2.6 5 spd. Red

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Re: John's 2000 Trooper V8 SAS

Postby geoffinbc » Mon Feb 20, 2017 8:34 pm

To fix your TBI opening problem simply install a 2.8L style throttle arm and bracket.
1990 Trooper, 3.2L (3.1L .040 over) Pushrod V6, 5 speed manual. 33X10.50X15 BFG M/T KM2's. 3" OME Lift. Cowl Induction Intake. ARB Lockers front and rear. HD Tierods.
Off the road for an overhaul right now.

Big Bore Intake Kits & Greasable Shackles Here
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Re: John's 2000 Trooper V8 SAS

Postby Johnthegoon » Mon Feb 20, 2017 9:29 pm

itsmehb wrote:Really was nice reading through your latest posts. And the sound of that v8 sounds great. What exhaust did you put on. You only mentioned one cat so did you put on a single or dual exhaust set up?


Single exhaust. Old-school ramhorn exhaust manifolds into 2" pipes that merge behind the transfer case (right side crosses over) into a dual-inlet/single-outlet cat, with 2.5" pipe out to a single flowmaster 50 series. It's a nice burble without being a chopper..
~~John
Current zu: 2000 Trooper, SAS with V8 conversion, dual battery, homemade roof rack, homemade rear storage, DC-AC inverter, Custom hail damage - Bought in Oct 2010 w/ 151k.
Build threads: viewtopic.php?f=1&t=67783 - viewtopic.php?f=22&t=82355

Previous zu: 1992 Rodeo XS, 4x4 TBI V6 5-spd, Shackle lift and T-bar crank, on-board air. Bought Jan 2003 w/ 161k - given to a family @ church, winter 2006
2001 Chevy Silverado 2500HD
2013 Audi S5
2013 Honda Odyssey
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Re: John's 2000 Trooper V8 SAS

Postby Johnthegoon » Mon Feb 20, 2017 9:32 pm

geoffinbc wrote:To fix your TBI opening problem simply install a 2.8L style throttle arm and bracket.


I'll need to look into that, thanks. It's actually a Holley TBI throttle body, but if I can make something work, I'm all for it.
~~John
Current zu: 2000 Trooper, SAS with V8 conversion, dual battery, homemade roof rack, homemade rear storage, DC-AC inverter, Custom hail damage - Bought in Oct 2010 w/ 151k.
Build threads: viewtopic.php?f=1&t=67783 - viewtopic.php?f=22&t=82355

Previous zu: 1992 Rodeo XS, 4x4 TBI V6 5-spd, Shackle lift and T-bar crank, on-board air. Bought Jan 2003 w/ 161k - given to a family @ church, winter 2006
2001 Chevy Silverado 2500HD
2013 Audi S5
2013 Honda Odyssey
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Re: John's 2000 Trooper V8 SAS

Postby totten » Mon Feb 20, 2017 10:48 pm

Great update with pics. and sound!! looken great.
2004 rodeo 4x4,3.2,auto Calmini 3" lift, Zone 2" Body Lift, 285/75/16 Mastercraft Courser HXT Tires. Cobra 29LTD CB,Transmission cooler,Functional hood scoop,Skyjacker shocks 8000,Swaybars removed.
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Re: John's 2000 Trooper V8 SAS

Postby bradzuzu » Sat Feb 25, 2017 8:32 pm

Might even be able to bend the pedal up a bit more so it'll travel further ...

So happy for you buddy , it's come a long way !!
91 amigo sas toy front leaf- traded off :(
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Sometimes trying is all you can do, but when you succeed , that's something to be proud of...
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Re: John's 2000 Trooper V8 SAS

Postby Johnthegoon » Mon Feb 27, 2017 12:18 pm

I've had 1 day off in the last 10, and most of that was spent on yard-work, but I did manage to get out to the shop a bit. I turns out my bad gauges was just a grounding problem that was a simple fix. I had to take the dash back off, but it wasn't a re-wiring project, so I'm calling that a win. With that problem fixed, the gauges read right where they're supposed to. Previously, the oil pressure would peg high as soon as I started the engine and the water temp would be pegged high within 5 minutes of starting the motor. I knew they weren't correct, but I wasn't comfortable just assuming it was all fine, so I didn't want to run it very long in case it actually WAS overheating. Now I've got the confidence to run it longer and harder.

I also got some wiring diagrams and ordered a pigtail, and got the alternator hooked up to charge properly. Everybody's complaint about the passive battery isolators in the dual-battery system is that they induce just enough resistance to lower the voltage from that typical 14.x to about 13.2.. the CS series alternators feature remote voltage sensing on the internal voltage regulator. By sensing the voltage downstream from the isolator, it will provide 14 volts to the truck regardless of the voltage drop from the isolator. It means it's giving the isolator about 15 volts, but it doesn't care and the rest of the truck never sees that voltage. This actually works better than the original setup I had with the isuzu running gear.

It seems to run a bit better at 14v too, compared to when I was running it just on the 12v from the batteries, but I'm still getting the surging idle when it goes to closed-loop... Maybe I'll buy a cigar and smoke-test it tomorrow.
~~John
Current zu: 2000 Trooper, SAS with V8 conversion, dual battery, homemade roof rack, homemade rear storage, DC-AC inverter, Custom hail damage - Bought in Oct 2010 w/ 151k.
Build threads: viewtopic.php?f=1&t=67783 - viewtopic.php?f=22&t=82355

Previous zu: 1992 Rodeo XS, 4x4 TBI V6 5-spd, Shackle lift and T-bar crank, on-board air. Bought Jan 2003 w/ 161k - given to a family @ church, winter 2006
2001 Chevy Silverado 2500HD
2013 Audi S5
2013 Honda Odyssey
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Re: John's 2000 Trooper V8 SAS

Postby Johnthegoon » Sun Mar 12, 2017 11:04 am

So I spent about 2 weeks just kinda driving it around a bit, getting a feel for everything. The ride is actually pretty good, and the engine pulls well even though it still surges at idle - only in neutral or park, when it's under load in drive (on the brake) it settles out nicely again. I put the body on, including hood pins(!!) and got some beauty shots in my driveway - still need bumpers, obviously, but I like the way it sits.

IMG_4736.JPG

IMG_4737.JPG

IMG_4738.JPG


http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=6BII6kyE5oA

I took it in for an alignment and I had about 0.7 degrees of positive caster on both sides, that may contribute to the tippy feeling around corners, and the caster was 2.3 degrees, which is well below the 4.5-5.5 spec I was able to find for the axle - I'm pretty sure this is the twitchy feeling to the steering. They fixed the toe, and I continued driving it around a bit -- it's got a few issues but not actually terrible as a driver.
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~~John
Current zu: 2000 Trooper, SAS with V8 conversion, dual battery, homemade roof rack, homemade rear storage, DC-AC inverter, Custom hail damage - Bought in Oct 2010 w/ 151k.
Build threads: viewtopic.php?f=1&t=67783 - viewtopic.php?f=22&t=82355

Previous zu: 1992 Rodeo XS, 4x4 TBI V6 5-spd, Shackle lift and T-bar crank, on-board air. Bought Jan 2003 w/ 161k - given to a family @ church, winter 2006
2001 Chevy Silverado 2500HD
2013 Audi S5
2013 Honda Odyssey
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Wheel studs

Postby Johnthegoon » Sun Mar 12, 2017 11:17 am

I knew the wheel studs were going to be an issue, they're smaller than I would like and too short to get excellent thread engagement with the lug nuts. The front is worse than the back, as the axle was built for thin steel wheels. It was on my list of things to do but I was stalling a bit on it. Anyway, my 10-year-old and I were idling slowly through a park with the windows down while he looked for pokemon on my phone and I started hearing a faint, strange, squeaking/scrubbing noise from the front corner that corresponded to wheel rotation. It took me a couple tries stopping and investigating, but I eventually noticed that 4 out of 6 lug nuts on each front wheel were finger-loose. This is after torquing them well (twice) about 2 weeks prior. Naturally ALL my tools were somewhere besides the back of the truck, so I got the rest of the lug nuts finger-tight (when's the last time you heard of being satisfied with "finger tight" lug nuts?). Luckily we were about 2 blocks from Harbor Freight so I crept over there with "poo coming out" and spent a few bucks on tools to tighten them again.

We got it back home and I haven't driven it more than a few feet since then - the wheels studs just became the next priority.
~~John
Current zu: 2000 Trooper, SAS with V8 conversion, dual battery, homemade roof rack, homemade rear storage, DC-AC inverter, Custom hail damage - Bought in Oct 2010 w/ 151k.
Build threads: viewtopic.php?f=1&t=67783 - viewtopic.php?f=22&t=82355

Previous zu: 1992 Rodeo XS, 4x4 TBI V6 5-spd, Shackle lift and T-bar crank, on-board air. Bought Jan 2003 w/ 161k - given to a family @ church, winter 2006
2001 Chevy Silverado 2500HD
2013 Audi S5
2013 Honda Odyssey
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Wheel studs part 2

Postby Johnthegoon » Sun Mar 12, 2017 11:38 am

I have a buddy who replaced the axles in his CJ5 with Dana 44's (he used the rear out of a Rodeo) and ran into the same problem with the wheel studs. Thankfully, he did the research 6 months ago that I would need now. He found 1/2" studs to replace the stock 7/16" with good length and the correct knurl, so I went up to the box store and bought 12 of them.

before and after
IMG_4825.JPG

These were easy to find since I already had the part number I needed. Studs for the rear were a lot harder to find. The guy at the counter did his best, and it was better than most of them can do. In the end, he wound up calling their central support line and we spent about 45 minutes with the calipers, my old isuzu stud, and online specs and they found something they thought would work. It was metric thread (which kind of annoyed me because I'm trying to get all my lugs in the same thread, oh well). He had to order it and we made plans that I'd come back tomorrow and we could measure it all out and see if it would work - he didn't charge me.

I went home and got on Dorman's website with my isuzu stud and my own set of calipers. I looked up the part number that they came up with, and it wasn't going to work at all. The dorman search engine is pretty good, so I just took measurements and went looking on my own and found one that really seemed like it would work, and it was even the same size and thread as the ones I bought for up front!

It wasn't until I went back to the store the next day that I noticed that the part number I was able to find in my searching was the exact same part number my buddy had found for the front axle. I would never have predicted that a 1977 american pickup and a 2000 japanese SUV would be able to use the exact same wheel stud, but there it is.
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~~John
Current zu: 2000 Trooper, SAS with V8 conversion, dual battery, homemade roof rack, homemade rear storage, DC-AC inverter, Custom hail damage - Bought in Oct 2010 w/ 151k.
Build threads: viewtopic.php?f=1&t=67783 - viewtopic.php?f=22&t=82355

Previous zu: 1992 Rodeo XS, 4x4 TBI V6 5-spd, Shackle lift and T-bar crank, on-board air. Bought Jan 2003 w/ 161k - given to a family @ church, winter 2006
2001 Chevy Silverado 2500HD
2013 Audi S5
2013 Honda Odyssey
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Wheels studs part 3

Postby Johnthegoon » Sun Mar 12, 2017 12:07 pm

The front wheel studs were pure Dana 44, just hammered out with a BFH and then hammered back in with a BFH and a big drift, that's blogged elsewhere on the web.

The rears were pretty easy too: I took off the brake caliper and the rotor, then knocked out the old studs with the BFH. It's smart to turn the hub so that there's space for the stud to go into without damaging the parking brake. There's plenty of space to get them out once they're loose.

IMG_4797.JPG

For the replacement, there was still enough space behind the hub to get the longer stud in. I used a lug nut and an air impact gun to pull the stud through the hub. The knurling extends WAY beyond the surface of the hub, so I needed to use a spacer - an old U-bolt nut was the correct size and length to allow this. I put the lug nut on backwards, so the taper wouldn't dig in. I put a thin layer of grease on the threads and all the faces of the nut and spacer so the gun could deliver maximum torque without fighting friction. The knurling on the new studs is about 5 thousandths bigger than the factory isuzu studs. My air gun wasn't up to the task, but I borrowed one with a working torque of 350 and max torque of 550 and it was pretty easy.

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=mNeNAwWaEkw

So the new studs seated great - I accidentally didn't get it quite seated on that video, but I went back and fixed it easily - the struggle of doing it one-handed while paying attention to my phone. The brake rotor didn't fit over the knurling on the new studs, but it didn't lack much so I just drilled them out. 9/16" bit was a perfect fit and it didn't have to cut much out, it doesn't even knock out all the chamfer.

drilled hole at 11:00, original at 1:00
IMG_4856.JPG

So, now I've got thick beefy wheel studs with matching threads, long enough to engage 100% of the lug nut. Definitely worth the effort.

IMG_4860.JPG

IMG_4859.JPG


The part number for the studs is Dorman 610-073, for my own reference later.
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~~John
Current zu: 2000 Trooper, SAS with V8 conversion, dual battery, homemade roof rack, homemade rear storage, DC-AC inverter, Custom hail damage - Bought in Oct 2010 w/ 151k.
Build threads: viewtopic.php?f=1&t=67783 - viewtopic.php?f=22&t=82355

Previous zu: 1992 Rodeo XS, 4x4 TBI V6 5-spd, Shackle lift and T-bar crank, on-board air. Bought Jan 2003 w/ 161k - given to a family @ church, winter 2006
2001 Chevy Silverado 2500HD
2013 Audi S5
2013 Honda Odyssey
User avatar
Johnthegoon
Has a Trail Truck
 
Posts: 306
Joined: Tue Oct 26, 2010 2:17 pm
Location: Lubbock, TX
Has thanked: 13 times
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