John's 2000 Trooper V8 SAS

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Re: Creating Frankenstein's Monster

Postby paulevans76 » Sun Oct 02, 2016 9:02 pm

Mechanical serendipity, gotta love it.
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Re: Creating Frankenstein's Monster

Postby EricJette » Sun Oct 02, 2016 9:23 pm

paulevans76 wrote:Mechanical serendipity, gotta love it.


Indeed! :D
95% mech. restored 2dr. /2 seat / '86 Trooper w/ A/C , New 1mil over-bored 2.3L (2305cc)/ All OEM Johnny5ive-built custom "5zd1", w/ 2.6 valves &"Jerry cam" in the 2.3L head/ custom built 3-core radiator/ Exedy clutch & rebuilt msg-5 tranny/ 30/9.5/15's on snowflakes/superwinch manual hubs/fully rebuilt front end - KYB shocks w/ steering dampener & Calmini torsion bars/ 89RS leaf springs w/90mm shackles/custom wood interior paneling & bedlined flooring w /Calmini tri-Y header w/high-flow cat and muffler on 2.25" stainless pipe.

Desert Trooper;
viewtopic.php?f=15&t=61131

Shaolin school of Isuzu graduation day; "And now little trooper, when you can grab this socket wrench from my hand, it will be time to start your engine."
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Re: Creating Frankenstein's Monster

Postby bradzuzu » Mon Oct 03, 2016 12:20 am

Looking good , it's always a bonus when parts practically interchange , well with a slight adjustment/modification that is...

Make sure your steering colum doesn't have a fish tape up top , if you turn it to far one way or get off center it'll tear it right out , I had to use my spare one when I built my amigo , I didn't know it had broke until I started driving and heard flapbity flapbity everytine I turned lol

Also I think you can final center the wheel on the shaft when it's all said and done ...

Keep up the good work !!
91 amigo sas toy front leaf- traded off :(
2000 amigo sas d44 wagonear 4 link
custom built buggy ffor the dirty stuff

My build up page
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Sometimes trying is all you can do, but when you succeed , that's something to be proud of...
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Re: Creating Frankenstein's Monster

Postby Johnthegoon » Mon Oct 03, 2016 11:38 am

Oh dear... I'm not sure what you're talking about with the fish tape. I've spun the wheel several times for grins when everything was disconnected... did I do a bad thing?

As for centering the wheel, that's the easy part.. The joint where the two shafts sleeve together is currently free-turning. If I set the steering box at the center of its range, and then center the steering wheel too, that should be the correct spot to weld it together, right?

None of the box-type auto parts stores carry the steering slip-shafts boot for ANY vehicle, apparently (at least not locally)... I may swing by various dealers that make Japanese trucks (toyota, Nissan) and peek at their steering set up... if their slip-joint is anything like Isuzu's design, I'll just order one from them, I guess. I gotta look, though... I'm sure that parts-counter guys are good, somewhere in the world, but around here they're all meth heads, so I gotta do the legwork myself on the interchange.
~~John
Current zu: 2000 Trooper, SAS with V8 conversion, dual battery, homemade roof rack, homemade rear storage, DC-AC inverter, Custom hail damage - Bought in Oct 2010 w/ 151k.
Build threads: viewtopic.php?f=1&t=67783 - viewtopic.php?f=22&t=82355

Previous zu: 1992 Rodeo XS, 4x4 TBI V6 5-spd, Shackle lift and T-bar crank, on-board air. Bought Jan 2003 w/ 161k - given to a family @ church, winter 2006
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Re: John's 2000 Trooper V8 SAS

Postby geoffinbc » Mon Oct 03, 2016 11:58 am

Lol "all meth heads" I really hope not and they are just dumb kids. But I agree at least 90% of parts people can only do what you can do right in front of them on your phone. I have literally sat there and fed them numbers I look up on my phone when finding something not listed on their application guide. Those same 90% won't ever pull the catalogs out from under the counter where you can really go after what you need based on pics and measurements. The older the cars get the worse it gets finding the correct part.
1990 Trooper, 3.2L (3.1L .040 over) Pushrod V6, 5 speed manual. 33X10.50X15 BFG M/T KM2's. 3" OME Lift. Cowl Induction Intake. ARB Lockers front and rear. HD Tierods.
Off the road for an overhaul right now.

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Re: John's 2000 Trooper V8 SAS

Postby EricJette » Mon Oct 03, 2016 12:03 pm

John, I think fine tuning where the steering wheel is "centered" ( even after welding shaft @ mid-point of steering travel) will come after alignment. In which case just pull the wheel and center it up on its splines, once you have everything dialed in.

There are, at least on my trooper, and I assume on most vehicles adjustable stops on steering component travel. So that the limit of turn can be adjusted at a "factory" spec. setting, and protecting your steering gear box from over-travel. With all the mods involved, do you have any steering stops limiting the range of travel?
95% mech. restored 2dr. /2 seat / '86 Trooper w/ A/C , New 1mil over-bored 2.3L (2305cc)/ All OEM Johnny5ive-built custom "5zd1", w/ 2.6 valves &"Jerry cam" in the 2.3L head/ custom built 3-core radiator/ Exedy clutch & rebuilt msg-5 tranny/ 30/9.5/15's on snowflakes/superwinch manual hubs/fully rebuilt front end - KYB shocks w/ steering dampener & Calmini torsion bars/ 89RS leaf springs w/90mm shackles/custom wood interior paneling & bedlined flooring w /Calmini tri-Y header w/high-flow cat and muffler on 2.25" stainless pipe.

Desert Trooper;
viewtopic.php?f=15&t=61131

Shaolin school of Isuzu graduation day; "And now little trooper, when you can grab this socket wrench from my hand, it will be time to start your engine."
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Re: John's 2000 Trooper V8 SAS

Postby lorenzo816 » Tue Oct 04, 2016 9:59 am

subscribed.
Not sure how I missed this build thread.
keep on truckin sir.
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Re: John's 2000 Trooper V8 SAS

Postby Johnthegoon » Wed Oct 05, 2016 11:26 am

EricJette wrote: With all the mods involved, do you have any steering stops limiting the range of travel?


There are adjustable stops built in to the steering knuckles on the axle. Glad you brought that up though, because I had to go look for myself to be sure, I hadn't thought of it. I'm always glad when people question what I'm doing.. There's a lot of experience on here and it would be foolish not to listen to it.
~~John
Current zu: 2000 Trooper, SAS with V8 conversion, dual battery, homemade roof rack, homemade rear storage, DC-AC inverter, Custom hail damage - Bought in Oct 2010 w/ 151k.
Build threads: viewtopic.php?f=1&t=67783 - viewtopic.php?f=22&t=82355

Previous zu: 1992 Rodeo XS, 4x4 TBI V6 5-spd, Shackle lift and T-bar crank, on-board air. Bought Jan 2003 w/ 161k - given to a family @ church, winter 2006
2001 Chevy Silverado 2500HD
2013 Audi S5
2013 Honda Odyssey

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Ignition coil and steering snafu

Postby Johnthegoon » Wed Oct 05, 2016 12:12 pm

So, the ignition coil I bought didn't come with any mounting solution. Accel wants you to drill out the rivets on your factory coil and use their little adapter in the factory bolt holes with the factory bracket. I don't have a factory bracket, and I wasn't really sure whether my aftermarket intake would have the correct holes anyway, so I just got some cardboard and the same thin sheet metal I made the dashboard out of. Maybe it'll be less ugly once I paint it.

IMG_3788.JPG

IMG_3789.JPG

I also got the steering one step closer to done by getting the shaft welded up. I was really pleased with the way it turned out until I cycled the steering a few times and realized I'd welded it too short. It fit fine when I set it, but I failed to realize that when the steering angle changes, the tabs stick out farther than they look, and would bind up against the snap ring in the slip joint. Luckily I had some leftover tubing that I cut off the larger Chevy shaft, so I had to fab in another extension. I did it as high up on the shaft as I could manage, to leave room for the shaft to collapse, without getting into the area where the boot would need to seal. It's not quite as beautiful as I'd hoped, but it works well without binding.

IMG_3792.JPG
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~~John
Current zu: 2000 Trooper, SAS with V8 conversion, dual battery, homemade roof rack, homemade rear storage, DC-AC inverter, Custom hail damage - Bought in Oct 2010 w/ 151k.
Build threads: viewtopic.php?f=1&t=67783 - viewtopic.php?f=22&t=82355

Previous zu: 1992 Rodeo XS, 4x4 TBI V6 5-spd, Shackle lift and T-bar crank, on-board air. Bought Jan 2003 w/ 161k - given to a family @ church, winter 2006
2001 Chevy Silverado 2500HD
2013 Audi S5
2013 Honda Odyssey
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Wires, wires, more wires

Postby Johnthegoon » Fri Nov 04, 2016 1:09 pm

Another minor update.. I've been thinking and working a lot on it, but nothing that really looks like much. It's all been little detail stuff. Getting brackets painted, figuring out brake line routing, practicing making double flares so the brakes don't kill me, etc.

I've also been doing a lot of wiring and cleaning up. If "running and reliably driving" is the finish line, I'm about half-way through turn 4, which is when I have to turn to all the little stuff that I said I'd get to "when it's time to."

I sat down with printouts of the wiring diagram and made myself a collage so I could figure out how to make the Isuzu Auto-AC work without the computer and with the Chevy hardware. I obviously haven't been able to test whether the AC or heater will actually cool or heat, but everything turns on, the blower motor runs, the electric mix doors all move appropriately and the AC clutch line gets 12V when I press the button, so I'm hopeful. I ran out of ports on the intake for water temp sensors, so I drilled and tapped the back of my water neck. I'm not 100% convinced this was a good solution, but it's a cheap part to replace if I'm wrong.

IMG_3974.JPG

I remembered that back long ago, I bought an aftermarket universal cruise control for my old Rodeo that I never got around to installing. It was still in its shipping box, I hadn't even cut the tape (the shipping label says I've had it for like 11 years on a shelf in my garage). I pulled it out and it looks like it'll work, it was designed with simple engines and mechanical linkages in mind, which is what I have. I got it all wired in to the brake switch, the VSS, etc. It has a vacuum motor to run the throttle and the TBI throttle arm has a good place to connect it. The control buttons are in a box that looks really ghetto and stick-on - which is about right for a JC Whitney product - so I'm currently in different wiring diagrams to see if I can figure out a way to use the factory cruise control stalk to control it.

Historically when I'm doing stuff like this, I get to a point of "make it work" and it winds up looking bad and being a little shady. I decided to do it right this time, so I spent a long time trying to make the engine and electronic stuff look and act somewhat OEM. To that end, I now have a home-made engine harness for all the electric stuff on the engine (senders, AC clutch, tach signal, etc). It will all go to a single weatherpack 12-pin plug to make the whole thing a 1 or 2 plug affair to disconnect the engine.

IMG_3970.JPG

Then I set about making the wires in the engine compartment comparably pretty. I got everything routed nicely and wire-loomed and looking pretty stock. I'm not going to solder the actual connectors in place until I know how much slack I need with the engine put back in.

IMG_3973.JPG

With all the factory stuff stripped out, my stock fusebox is almost empty.. I'm only using like 4 fuses and 6 relays.. I'd kind of like to down-size the fusebox to make room for my battery isolator, but I'm not sure how to do it yet. Without the ECU and the ABS pump, the fusebox is just sitting there taking up the center of a lot of usable space. I might end up just getting new, smaller, aftermarket fuse/relay blocks.
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~~John
Current zu: 2000 Trooper, SAS with V8 conversion, dual battery, homemade roof rack, homemade rear storage, DC-AC inverter, Custom hail damage - Bought in Oct 2010 w/ 151k.
Build threads: viewtopic.php?f=1&t=67783 - viewtopic.php?f=22&t=82355

Previous zu: 1992 Rodeo XS, 4x4 TBI V6 5-spd, Shackle lift and T-bar crank, on-board air. Bought Jan 2003 w/ 161k - given to a family @ church, winter 2006
2001 Chevy Silverado 2500HD
2013 Audi S5
2013 Honda Odyssey
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Re: John's 2000 Trooper V8 SAS

Postby why3zx » Sun Nov 06, 2016 7:11 am

Blue Sea Marine makes some pretty sweet fuse solutions.
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Re: John's 2000 Trooper V8 SAS

Postby DarthTrooper » Sun Nov 06, 2016 10:17 am

Looking great! keep up the good work. The engine looks awesome, I can't wait to see it in place.
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Re: John's 2000 Trooper V8 SAS

Postby bradzuzu » Sun Nov 20, 2016 2:12 pm

Sometimes it's easier to do your wiring and figuring out once the engines in , well most of the time ... Instead of taking two or three steps to get to an objective you can take one , just a little advice , I also know that everyone has to do things the way they know how and what makes sense in there mind ... Catch twenty two but a suggestion never hurts to help either..

Everything's looking great John !!
91 amigo sas toy front leaf- traded off :(
2000 amigo sas d44 wagonear 4 link
custom built buggy ffor the dirty stuff

My build up page
Four link pics
Intake R&R - port and polish

Sometimes trying is all you can do, but when you succeed , that's something to be proud of...
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Re: John's 2000 Trooper V8 SAS

Postby Johnthegoon » Mon Nov 28, 2016 8:32 pm

bradzuzu wrote:Sometimes it's easier to do your wiring and figuring out once the engines in , well most of the time ... Instead of taking two or three steps to get to an objective you can take one , just a little advice , I also know that everyone has to do things the way they know how and what makes sense in there mind ... Catch twenty two but a suggestion never hurts to help either..


You're absolutely right and I wish I had planned things a little better at the beginning. The engine was out already for these steps, because I had a lot of frame welding left to do, so I took advantage of the extra room to work. I wouldn't have been able to get things as clean if I had tried it while the engine was in place, I just didn't have the room or the reach to do it properly. Even now, we put the engine back in to finish setting things up, but I've got one or two more welding projects (shock towers, brake tabs, bump stops etc) and then we have to pull it out yet one more time to clean and paint everything. I also need to pressure test my brake line unions, if they're not good, I'll have trouble reaching them with the motor in. I was really hoping that this would be the last time I had to stab the drivetrain, but I didn't do it in the right order. If I ever do anything like this again, I've got pages of mental notes on how to be more efficient.
~~John
Current zu: 2000 Trooper, SAS with V8 conversion, dual battery, homemade roof rack, homemade rear storage, DC-AC inverter, Custom hail damage - Bought in Oct 2010 w/ 151k.
Build threads: viewtopic.php?f=1&t=67783 - viewtopic.php?f=22&t=82355

Previous zu: 1992 Rodeo XS, 4x4 TBI V6 5-spd, Shackle lift and T-bar crank, on-board air. Bought Jan 2003 w/ 161k - given to a family @ church, winter 2006
2001 Chevy Silverado 2500HD
2013 Audi S5
2013 Honda Odyssey
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Re: John's 2000 Trooper V8 SAS

Postby Johnthegoon » Mon Nov 28, 2016 8:50 pm

So I've made lots of small progress over the past week or two. I have all but finished the wiring. I got the add-on harness integrated with both the factory harness and my home-made harness. Everything is routed nicely and connected properly. The only thing I can't test is whether or not it actually runs and/or some of the gauges actually work from their senders (which requires the motor to be running) - everything else electrical and electronic works properly, the CEL even comes on.

I was never satisfied with the way my battery isolater was mounted, so I took advantage of the extra space opened up by removing the ECU. I made a cardboard bracket template, cut and shaped it from the same sheet metal I made the dash out of, and it was good. It mounts the isolater up off the fender and allows some harness to pass underneath, and it has mounting spaces for the 3 main circuit breakers, and uses the factory threaded holes in the wheel well.

IMG_4028.JPG

IMG_4029.JPG

IMG_4043.JPG

I also located and installed the vacuum servo for the cruise control.

IMG_4044.JPG

I also finally broke down and did something about the fusebox. I consolidated the leads for the fuses that I was still using, which made the fuseblock small enough to fit in the area that used to have relays that I've deleted, and I consolidated the relays into a single area. Without the main fuses and all the stuff I didn't need, I was able to shrink it down a lot. Some careful carving a with hacksaw and a box cutter made it pretty small, and with some clamps and gorilla glue, I put the other end-cap back on with its mounting tab. I'll have to figure out the lid, but I expect it'll be something like I did for the main part (cut and glue, or maybe heat gun and bend).

IMG_4055.JPG
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~~John
Current zu: 2000 Trooper, SAS with V8 conversion, dual battery, homemade roof rack, homemade rear storage, DC-AC inverter, Custom hail damage - Bought in Oct 2010 w/ 151k.
Build threads: viewtopic.php?f=1&t=67783 - viewtopic.php?f=22&t=82355

Previous zu: 1992 Rodeo XS, 4x4 TBI V6 5-spd, Shackle lift and T-bar crank, on-board air. Bought Jan 2003 w/ 161k - given to a family @ church, winter 2006
2001 Chevy Silverado 2500HD
2013 Audi S5
2013 Honda Odyssey
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Re: John's 2000 Trooper V8 SAS

Postby Johnthegoon » Mon Nov 28, 2016 9:09 pm

I also used this time with the engine out to route and plumb the brakes. I used a set of those bending pliers and re-used some of the stock brake line that I removed. With the way it used to be routed from one end of the engine compartment to the other (with the ABS) pump, I had plenty of length to work with. I also had plenty of tubing to practice my double-flares on, because it definitely takes some practice. Anyway, here's the union to the front brakes -- it's hooked to the F on the proportioning valve on the master cylinder, and there's just a long run of straight tube at the ends (more than I need) so I can mount the flex-union tabs wherever I need to. The line for the rear runs all the way across, then down the passenger side and unions with the factory line right where it meets the frame (the brakes and plumbing aft of the engine haven't been touched).

IMG_4045.JPG

I haven't done brake flares and unions before. They seem to fit pretty tight, but I can't pressure test them until I have the front flex-lines installed and bleed the system.
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~~John
Current zu: 2000 Trooper, SAS with V8 conversion, dual battery, homemade roof rack, homemade rear storage, DC-AC inverter, Custom hail damage - Bought in Oct 2010 w/ 151k.
Build threads: viewtopic.php?f=1&t=67783 - viewtopic.php?f=22&t=82355

Previous zu: 1992 Rodeo XS, 4x4 TBI V6 5-spd, Shackle lift and T-bar crank, on-board air. Bought Jan 2003 w/ 161k - given to a family @ church, winter 2006
2001 Chevy Silverado 2500HD
2013 Audi S5
2013 Honda Odyssey
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Re: John's 2000 Trooper V8 SAS

Postby Johnthegoon » Tue Nov 29, 2016 11:18 am

I've known for a while that when we first tacked the front end together, we messed up on the measurements. Not by much, but by enough to make a difference, so it was time to re-do the front crossmember and the shackle hangers. It was only ever heavy-tacked in, so it wasn't a big deal to cut everything back off again. I guess I put more heat into the frame than I thought when I welded on those reinforcing plates, because when the crossmember popped off, the end of the frame spread out by about an inch.. scared the bejesus out of me too. Just great.

So, in goes the motor again (I know, Brad, I know). We had to make sure the frame was back where it was supposed to be before we did final welding on the crossmember, and that meant bringing the frame back together with a ratchet strap until the motor mounts lined up again. Once that was done, we got really precise about measurements and got everything dead-nuts perfect. I wish we had done that the first time around, but the lift springs don't flatten out as much as the tired stock springs we used to set it up initially, so the shackles were unacceptably vertical. Anyway, got everything welded hard and gusseted on the front crossmember, front shackle hangers and rear spring hangers.

IMG_4057.JPG

IMG_4058.JPG

IMG_4063.JPG

Now that the shackle hangers are further back, the shackles hit the frame long before achieving full droop. Some gentle frame trimming helps, and I've measured and cut out for some boomerang shackles. They will solve my problem, I just need to drill and install them.

Last bit of work for the weekend was re-attaching the front body mount that I had to cut off for the steering box. Unfortunately, the horizontal mounting surface for the bushing runs directly through one of the bolt holes for the steering box, so there was literally no way to trim or reconfigure the body mount to go around that bolt. What I did instead was move the mounting point upwards enough to both clear the bolt, and set it at a point where I could re-use the body bushing without the lift block. I cut a bunch of extraneous stuff off the body mount (the bumper tabs, etc) and boxed it in using 1/8" plate. It means I can't ever "unlift" the body, but it's secure, and it makes the steering box serviceable.

IMG_4064.JPG
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~~John
Current zu: 2000 Trooper, SAS with V8 conversion, dual battery, homemade roof rack, homemade rear storage, DC-AC inverter, Custom hail damage - Bought in Oct 2010 w/ 151k.
Build threads: viewtopic.php?f=1&t=67783 - viewtopic.php?f=22&t=82355

Previous zu: 1992 Rodeo XS, 4x4 TBI V6 5-spd, Shackle lift and T-bar crank, on-board air. Bought Jan 2003 w/ 161k - given to a family @ church, winter 2006
2001 Chevy Silverado 2500HD
2013 Audi S5
2013 Honda Odyssey
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Re: John's 2000 Trooper V8 SAS

Postby bradzuzu » Wed Nov 30, 2016 3:20 pm

Looking good John !!

All the fine details coming to light makes it interesting huh, giving yourself access for future work is a must in my book !!

Engineering is fun !!
91 amigo sas toy front leaf- traded off :(
2000 amigo sas d44 wagonear 4 link
custom built buggy ffor the dirty stuff

My build up page
Four link pics
Intake R&R - port and polish

Sometimes trying is all you can do, but when you succeed , that's something to be proud of...
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Re: John's 2000 Trooper V8 SAS

Postby Johnthegoon » Mon Dec 05, 2016 8:36 pm

Got the boomerang shackles cut and drilled and installed. They definitely solved most of my problem with hitting the frame. I get about 6 inches more droop and will only hit the frame if I get crossed up big time... It should prevent a shackle inversion if I do something stupid.

IMG_4113.JPG
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~~John
Current zu: 2000 Trooper, SAS with V8 conversion, dual battery, homemade roof rack, homemade rear storage, DC-AC inverter, Custom hail damage - Bought in Oct 2010 w/ 151k.
Build threads: viewtopic.php?f=1&t=67783 - viewtopic.php?f=22&t=82355

Previous zu: 1992 Rodeo XS, 4x4 TBI V6 5-spd, Shackle lift and T-bar crank, on-board air. Bought Jan 2003 w/ 161k - given to a family @ church, winter 2006
2001 Chevy Silverado 2500HD
2013 Audi S5
2013 Honda Odyssey
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Re: John's 2000 Trooper V8 SAS

Postby Johnthegoon » Mon Dec 05, 2016 10:52 pm

I spent today buttoning up the interior a little bit.. I had to trim out some of the plastic skeleton behind the dashboard in order to make the new gauges fit (specifically that trans temp gauge was bumping into some of the AC controls... It's now held on with 3 screws instead of 4 since I had to trim out one of the corners. I hadn't gotten into the stereo before, but the previous owner had made a tangled bird's nest of the connections, and cut the connection to the cigarette lighter in the process.. So I rewired it and reconnected the lighter, and extended the hot/ground leads so I can connect the panel-mount USB chargers that UPS is bringing tomorrow.

In the end, it all fits, and feels nice getting things back together again instead of taking them further apart. The fuel gauge has two wires that are required to set it, but I can't set it until I can get it to a gas station and fill the tank to full. So for now, those two wires are sticking out, but I looped a bit of string behind the dash - once I get the gauge set, I can clip the wires short, tape them off, and then use the string to pull them back behind the dash - I left the last two screws out of the dash until then.

IMG_4215.JPG

IMG_4218.JPG

The fuel injection computer came with an OBD port. Just to be cute, I extended all the wires on it and stuck it in the factory location.

IMG_4209.JPG
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~~John
Current zu: 2000 Trooper, SAS with V8 conversion, dual battery, homemade roof rack, homemade rear storage, DC-AC inverter, Custom hail damage - Bought in Oct 2010 w/ 151k.
Build threads: viewtopic.php?f=1&t=67783 - viewtopic.php?f=22&t=82355

Previous zu: 1992 Rodeo XS, 4x4 TBI V6 5-spd, Shackle lift and T-bar crank, on-board air. Bought Jan 2003 w/ 161k - given to a family @ church, winter 2006
2001 Chevy Silverado 2500HD
2013 Audi S5
2013 Honda Odyssey
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Re: John's 2000 Trooper V8 SAS

Postby Johnthegoon » Mon Dec 05, 2016 11:20 pm

While getting some of the console back together, I stumbled upon the factory neutral safety switch. Actually I have no idea if that's what it was intended for, but it's a little micro switch that only closes when you're in park with your finger off the shifter button. It's open in every other condition. Sounds like a good NSS to me. I'll find some 2-conductor wire and run a stretch from that switch out to the little loop I left in the engine bay, and that'll be that.

IMG_4217.JPG
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~~John
Current zu: 2000 Trooper, SAS with V8 conversion, dual battery, homemade roof rack, homemade rear storage, DC-AC inverter, Custom hail damage - Bought in Oct 2010 w/ 151k.
Build threads: viewtopic.php?f=1&t=67783 - viewtopic.php?f=22&t=82355

Previous zu: 1992 Rodeo XS, 4x4 TBI V6 5-spd, Shackle lift and T-bar crank, on-board air. Bought Jan 2003 w/ 161k - given to a family @ church, winter 2006
2001 Chevy Silverado 2500HD
2013 Audi S5
2013 Honda Odyssey
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Johnthegoon
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Posts: 306
Joined: Tue Oct 26, 2010 2:17 pm
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Re: John's 2000 Trooper V8 SAS

Postby EricJette » Tue Dec 06, 2016 1:19 am

You got skills,dude! Nice job on that interior, looks factory done.

question: You got a lot of raw steel, are you going to paint the frame, etc. after you do a shakedown cruise or ..?
95% mech. restored 2dr. /2 seat / '86 Trooper w/ A/C , New 1mil over-bored 2.3L (2305cc)/ All OEM Johnny5ive-built custom "5zd1", w/ 2.6 valves &"Jerry cam" in the 2.3L head/ custom built 3-core radiator/ Exedy clutch & rebuilt msg-5 tranny/ 30/9.5/15's on snowflakes/superwinch manual hubs/fully rebuilt front end - KYB shocks w/ steering dampener & Calmini torsion bars/ 89RS leaf springs w/90mm shackles/custom wood interior paneling & bedlined flooring w /Calmini tri-Y header w/high-flow cat and muffler on 2.25" stainless pipe.

Desert Trooper;
viewtopic.php?f=15&t=61131

Shaolin school of Isuzu graduation day; "And now little trooper, when you can grab this socket wrench from my hand, it will be time to start your engine."
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Re: John's 2000 Trooper V8 SAS

Postby Johnthegoon » Tue Dec 06, 2016 11:42 am

Definitely painting. I need to mock up and then build the mess for mounting the radiator and AC condenser, and probably a transmission cooler too if I can fit it. And then the engine's gotta come back out one more time. There's a few things left that I just can't reach with the engine in, and once I get the shock towers, brake line mounting tabs, and grounding tabs welded on, the whole thing gets wire brushed and generally cleaned up, then primed and painted. Luckily, engine removal is only 4 bolts and about 15 minutes, Lord knows I've done it enough times.
~~John
Current zu: 2000 Trooper, SAS with V8 conversion, dual battery, homemade roof rack, homemade rear storage, DC-AC inverter, Custom hail damage - Bought in Oct 2010 w/ 151k.
Build threads: viewtopic.php?f=1&t=67783 - viewtopic.php?f=22&t=82355

Previous zu: 1992 Rodeo XS, 4x4 TBI V6 5-spd, Shackle lift and T-bar crank, on-board air. Bought Jan 2003 w/ 161k - given to a family @ church, winter 2006
2001 Chevy Silverado 2500HD
2013 Audi S5
2013 Honda Odyssey
User avatar
Johnthegoon
Has a Trail Truck
 
Posts: 306
Joined: Tue Oct 26, 2010 2:17 pm
Location: Lubbock, TX
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Re: John's 2000 Trooper V8 SAS

Postby Johnthegoon » Tue Dec 06, 2016 10:07 pm

So I learned a new skill today. Plastic welding! I needed to shrink and change the shape of the cover to the fuse box now that I've made it so much smaller. Testing with glues and acetone suggested that it was polypropylene plastic that is too inert to take solvent or adhesive glues. Luckily, my soldering gun came with a "smoothing" tip that was perfect for melting the joints, and I had lots of scrap plastic to use as welding filler. It's ugly, but it's solid. I may use the heat gun to soften and smooth the welds, but it's not a high priority. I've managed to shrink the fuse box down to less than half its original size. Go me.

IMG_4220.JPG

IMG_4221.JPG
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~~John
Current zu: 2000 Trooper, SAS with V8 conversion, dual battery, homemade roof rack, homemade rear storage, DC-AC inverter, Custom hail damage - Bought in Oct 2010 w/ 151k.
Build threads: viewtopic.php?f=1&t=67783 - viewtopic.php?f=22&t=82355

Previous zu: 1992 Rodeo XS, 4x4 TBI V6 5-spd, Shackle lift and T-bar crank, on-board air. Bought Jan 2003 w/ 161k - given to a family @ church, winter 2006
2001 Chevy Silverado 2500HD
2013 Audi S5
2013 Honda Odyssey
User avatar
Johnthegoon
Has a Trail Truck
 
Posts: 306
Joined: Tue Oct 26, 2010 2:17 pm
Location: Lubbock, TX
Has thanked: 13 times
Have thanks: 9 times

Re: John's 2000 Trooper V8 SAS

Postby Johnthegoon » Tue Dec 06, 2016 10:13 pm

I also crossed another huge milestone this afternoon when my little package arrived from Parts Mike.. My drag link is finally in, and everything seems to work. It's a giant beefy piece - threaded quarter-wall tubing with 1-ton link ends. Without the power steering, I need to jack it up to cycle it left and right, but it looks good!

IMG_4222.JPG
You do not have the required permissions to view the files attached to this post.
~~John
Current zu: 2000 Trooper, SAS with V8 conversion, dual battery, homemade roof rack, homemade rear storage, DC-AC inverter, Custom hail damage - Bought in Oct 2010 w/ 151k.
Build threads: viewtopic.php?f=1&t=67783 - viewtopic.php?f=22&t=82355

Previous zu: 1992 Rodeo XS, 4x4 TBI V6 5-spd, Shackle lift and T-bar crank, on-board air. Bought Jan 2003 w/ 161k - given to a family @ church, winter 2006
2001 Chevy Silverado 2500HD
2013 Audi S5
2013 Honda Odyssey
User avatar
Johnthegoon
Has a Trail Truck
 
Posts: 306
Joined: Tue Oct 26, 2010 2:17 pm
Location: Lubbock, TX
Has thanked: 13 times
Have thanks: 9 times

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