springs with shocks 1998 passport

Discuss anything related to drivetrain mods here (Engine &Transmission Swaps, lift, gearing, exhaust, etc)

Moderator: Staff

springs with shocks 1998 passport

Postby Det0x » Sun Apr 23, 2017 12:47 am

Hi,

I have a 98 Passport with bad wheel bearings in the front, ripped cv boots, and worn rotors and shocks. It just has a lot of body roll. I've got the wheel bearings and CV half shaft assembly for the front, rotors & pads all around, and I have moog upper and lower ball joints and stabilizer bar links. All I think I need now is springs, shocks, and an extended brake line...key there I think...

I'm wanting roughly 2" of lift or a enough that I don't have to worry about bent upper links or damaging the steering in the front. I don't know a lot just what I've tried to read, mainly through this forum. Really just trying to avoid spending a lot of $$. It'll be a daily driver but I want to have solid offroad capability. After she runs and drives good Ill put some lights on it and do whatever trailing she can handle.

I'm looking at the moog springs, but not sure if I need the CC782, CC784, or CC247. Looking at Rancho shocks but not sure if I need the RS5214 or RS5136 for the front and RS5179 for the rear. Do these work together with minor modification? Shocks too big? What would work if not? Any help, suggestions, or ideas is appreciated...
Det0x
Drives on Pavement
 
Posts: 7
Joined: Wed Nov 30, 2016 1:56 pm
Has thanked: 0 time
Have thanks: 0 time

Sponsor
 

Re: springs with shocks 1998 passport

Postby lorenzo816 » Sun Apr 23, 2017 9:58 am

Wish I could help you here. 98 is the break year and I can't offer much advice except up front.
The 2" lift is a solid plan.
Crank the torsion bars and you should be good.
You don't need longer shock in the front but you do in the rear if you get taller coils or if you plan on putting a spacer in the coils in the rear and keeping the springs you have.
The CV boots, rotors/brakes, Ball joints and and shocks are a good plan - you'll be happy after that's done.
1997 Solid Axle Rodeo :: Ar5 swap :: Revo 4Lo :: 5.29/5.36 :: Front OX :: Rear ARB :: Full Float
MY Pictures and Videos and Build: 3-link coilover front 44 & rear FZJ80 on 37's
Uwharrie was my backyard - PM me if you need anything
User avatar
lorenzo816
I am the Stig
 
Posts: 3033
Joined: Wed Jul 19, 2006 2:36 pm
Location: North Carolina
Has thanked: 82 times
Have thanks: 55 times

Re: springs with shocks 1998 passport

Postby Det0x » Sun Apr 23, 2017 8:09 pm

What do you mean break year? Not completely compatible with 2nd gen? I only started looking at springs because I thought it would be an easy swap to get a couple inches of lift. Also read that improved springs can help with body roll. Which rancho shocks fit the stock height?
Det0x
Drives on Pavement
 
Posts: 7
Joined: Wed Nov 30, 2016 1:56 pm
Has thanked: 0 time
Have thanks: 0 time

Re: springs with shocks 1998 passport

Postby lorenzo816 » Mon Apr 24, 2017 9:37 am

not being an a-- here but a little search will help.
97 was the last year the rodeo/passports had leave sprung suspensions in the rear.
The front was not changed really.

98 and up have coil sprung rears.

Try these links for a little help on springs or spacers.
I even hear some cherokee springs lift a second gen too.

viewtopic.php?f=22&t=39374

viewtopic.php?f=2&t=90049&p=790993

viewtopic.php?f=22&t=86412

Body roll is caused by hard turning which can be counteracted with the sway bar.
The sway bar is made of spring steel and is meant to bend. You can replace the bushings on the bar and grease them up to help the bar bend/move as it twists.
There are no "HD" replacements for it unless you buy new and then I don't see a purpose or gain from that.

nothing here you can't do.
Just bust some knuckles, get some elbow grease and hop to it.

good luck
1997 Solid Axle Rodeo :: Ar5 swap :: Revo 4Lo :: 5.29/5.36 :: Front OX :: Rear ARB :: Full Float
MY Pictures and Videos and Build: 3-link coilover front 44 & rear FZJ80 on 37's
Uwharrie was my backyard - PM me if you need anything
User avatar
lorenzo816
I am the Stig
 
Posts: 3033
Joined: Wed Jul 19, 2006 2:36 pm
Location: North Carolina
Has thanked: 82 times
Have thanks: 55 times

Re: springs with shocks 1998 passport

Postby Det0x » Tue May 09, 2017 7:07 pm

Appreciate the help and info lorenzo

An update with similar questions...

I got the ball joints, stabilizer bar links, axles, wheel bearings, and brakes changed in the front. A couple of the ball joints looked pretty worn out and the driver stabilizer bar link was only attached at the bottom. I found my driver side tie rod looking tore up. Extremely happy with the cornering and handling now. No more unsettling sounds when turning lol. Went to get it aligned and they said the front left wheel was still loose.

Cranked the torsion bar 4 full turns just to see the results and it definitely removed the rake. Measures from 34 1/8"- 34 1/4" from all 4 wheel wells to the ground

Do I just need to tighten it down more or is the bad tie rod going to prevent a good alignment?
Still haven't got shocks or springs because I'm not 100% on compatibility... Looking at the Moog CC247 springs for around 2" of lift and I need stock shock lengths front and rear, leaning towards Rancho 5000. What is the part # for Rancho shocks that are stock length? I'm not against other brands like bilstien or skyjacker, but Rancho has a rebate on Rockauto right now and equal pricing.

To sum up, will stock length shocks work with CC247 Moog coil springs(and which Ranchos??)? Do I need a brake extension with it?
And is my bad tie rod affecting my alignment or did I do something wrong?

Appreciate the help!
Det0x
Drives on Pavement
 
Posts: 7
Joined: Wed Nov 30, 2016 1:56 pm
Has thanked: 0 time
Have thanks: 0 time

Re: springs with shocks 1998 passport

Postby lorenzo816 » Tue May 09, 2017 11:34 pm

So they said the front left wheel was still loose?
What do they mean?
have you checked the wheel bearings?

Or do they mean 'loose' like handling loose?
If so, yea if the tie rod ends are bad, they need to be swapped.
I never had the rack and pinion style steering. The 97 and back rodeos had the old style pitman and idler arm setup off the steering box.
The second gens, you can replace the inner and the outer tie rod. The inner is a bitch to get loose on any R+P style steering. You'll need to rent a tool that fits around the ball-nut and lets the rod poke through and then you put a huge socket on the tool to crank loose.
The tie rod end could be bad. The inners do go bad but hard to say without seeing yours.
Its really hard to tell when they're worn other than by driving and feeling/listening because unless its a catastrophic failure, you can't possibly shake it with your bare hands like a 4000 lb vehicle can to see if its bad.

If you don't have a book, I can send you a diagram if you need help tearing it apart.
Most likely check your ball joint torque specs and ensure they're good.

as for alignment specs, this from the 99 manual:
Caster 230’ ± 1
Camber 0 ± 30’
King pin inclination 1230’ ± 30’
Toe-in 0 ± 2 mm (0 ± 0.08 in)
Max. steering angle:
inside 32.6 (+030’ to –230’ )
outside 31.8


Can't help you with shocks but when I went through the same thing lifting my truck years ago, you only need to put longer shocks where you are increasing travel.
So pretty much just the rear needs longer shocks if you put in longer coils/springs.
The front you're simply just increasing up travel by taking away down travel. Same distance is being covered by the shock. So need for a different shock part #.
I do recall you can google the rancho shocks part numbers and even eyelets or rod styles and figure out which one you need by mount style at either end and compressed length/extended length.
start on page .52 and read the shock mounting codes to determine what you have.
(Keep in mind you can always grind down a bushing a little bit if its too thick if you want a different shock that uses a slightly larger bushing.)
http://www.gorancho.com/downloads/produ ... secure.pdf
Then scroll down to figure out which shock you need.
My opinion is almost all white shocks are the same. Rancho, Skyjacker, monroe... etc. Until you get into coilovers, struts, or bypass shocks thats when it matters more to do some serious research.
Don't beat yourself over which brand. Any new shock is going to feel better than what you had before.
1997 Solid Axle Rodeo :: Ar5 swap :: Revo 4Lo :: 5.29/5.36 :: Front OX :: Rear ARB :: Full Float
MY Pictures and Videos and Build: 3-link coilover front 44 & rear FZJ80 on 37's
Uwharrie was my backyard - PM me if you need anything
User avatar
lorenzo816
I am the Stig
 
Posts: 3033
Joined: Wed Jul 19, 2006 2:36 pm
Location: North Carolina
Has thanked: 82 times
Have thanks: 55 times


Return to Drivetrain Mods

Who is online

Users browsing this forum: No registered users and 2 guests

cron