Turbo questions.

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Turbo questions.

Postby Razer436 » Wed Apr 12, 2017 3:49 am

Okay, well im just gonna jump into it. I have a 1996 honda passport 3.2v6, well i wanna install a ct26 turbo and push maybe about 5lbs boost after rebuilding the lower end of the motor. Now my question is what will i need to do this mod, such as making a turbo manifold, and whatever other turbo related parts.

Question #2.
Anybody know what type of coulc overs will fit on the 1st gen rodeos/passports?? Wanna install 3" lift coilovers eventually. Thanks in advance.
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Re: Turbo questions.

Postby nasty610 » Wed Apr 12, 2017 6:13 am

viewtopic.php?f=17&t=61333
This is Brad's thread from when he built his turbo Amigo. It's newer but the process will be exactly the same.

As far as coil overs there are none. Your Rodeo uses leaf springs in the rear and torsion bars in the front. If you want coil overs it will be a custom install. Someone did it a few years back and there's a thread detailing it. You'll need to search for it though.
1996 Isuzu Trooper Base model
Front t-bar crank, Rear lifted with 1st gen Grand Cherokee Coils, Cooper Discovery AT3 265/75R16
1991 Trooper Base Model
HD Sway-a-Way torsion bars, Sweet Camo Paint(adds 50 hp), Snowflakes w/ Firestone Destination LE2 265/75r16
Lift Coil Spring Options
Add-a-Leaf kits and Part Numbers
Longer Shocks for your Lifted Isuzu
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Re: Turbo questions.

Postby Johnny V » Tue Apr 18, 2017 1:28 am

If you could find a newer Rodeo to snatch the rear out of you could go with coils, and subsequently coil overs if you have a welder and some fab skills. I'm working on getting a set of Jeep coils under my 01 2wd now. I just bought an Aussie locker and may as well go through the diff. It's solid and doesn't whine but no reason not to spend 80 bucks on seals and bearings after dropping 2k+ on the LS swap. If you cruise Craigslist you'll find about a million ads for new take off Jeep shocks, springs and other suspension bits. I paid 50 bucks for 4 shocks, springs, pitman(useless for us) and sway bars. If I can get it to work easily I'll post about it.

As far as a turbo goes, its easy to bolt it on. Just loop a pipe from the left bank under the motor to the right bank, weld a flange on it and stick the turbo in the gap. At that low of an intake pressure all of the standard gaskets should hold up fine. Getting it to work isn't as easy. With an increase of intake pressure, you need at least that much of an increase in fuel pressure. You're injectors aren't pushing into atmospheric pressure anymore. That means a 40lb fuel pressure is effectively going to turn into 35lbs. This is exactly the opposite of what you need. Your ECM can increase the PWM length to help, but it can't increase the pressure.

All that said, 5psi shouldn't need much, if any, recalibration. And a supercharger would be easier to plumb than a turbo. A small one off of something like a Mercedes Kompressor or a VW G-Lader would be the easiest. A set of brackets, a double crank pulley and a new air filter should just about do it.
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Re: Turbo questions.

Postby Razer436 » Tue Apr 18, 2017 2:52 am

Sounds like fun tbh i appreciate all the input and i can get a second gen rear pretty easily. I was told a ct26 turbo should do the job just fine even a ko3 or ko4 out of a vw could too, buulding a manifold hopefully isnt too costly and i was hoping to find a set that bolt on exactly how the standard shocks do
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Re: Turbo questions.

Postby Richey » Sun Apr 23, 2017 9:30 pm

What kind of MPG difference would you see from a Turbo mod? Im looking at a 3.2 Amigo/Rodeo as a cummuter, but the 19mpg is a bit frightening, I'd prefer more like 24.
-2000 Rodeo 4x4 3.2 Build
-1990 Spacecab 4x4 4 speed 2.2L Diesel Complete Veggie oil conversion Build
-1989 2.6L Amigo 4x4
-1984 2.2L Diesel P'up
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Re: Turbo questions.

Postby Johnny V » Sun Apr 23, 2017 10:07 pm

The simple answer is about 10% less mpg if you drive at the same speed and acceleration as you do now. But if you're not planning on going faster or needing the power, there is no reason to do it at all. You can't make more power without using more fuel. It's just the name of the game. One part fuel can only produce X amount of energy. If you want more energy, add more air and fuel. The one place that things can get a little cloudy is catalytic converters. A cat's job is to overheat any raw fuel in the exhaust system to burn it before it leaves the tail pipe. A turbo can do just about the same thing and has just about the same exhaust restriction. Under boost, a turbo gets hot enough to eliminate the need of a cat. If you eliminate the cat, you decrease the exhaust restriction and can make more power on the same amount of fuel. If you add a turbo, you drop back to the same mpg you had with a cat but have the ability to make more power if you need it. One of my old Dodge Spirit R/T's passed Texas emissions with a gutted cat on pump gas. I made sure to run it hard before I brought it in for testing to get the big turbo as hot as I could.
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