auto to manual hubs

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auto to manual hubs

Postby harrisong » Thu Mar 30, 2017 10:25 am

I know there are a few topics out there but I still seem to be a bit stuck. I want to switch my auto hubs to manual.

I have a 94 3.1TD bighorn, auto locking hubs, not SOTF. I know the aisin hubs are available, but if I am going to go for superwinch or warn does anyone know which part numbers. just want to make sure I am ordering the right ones. whether you have sotf or not do the same manual hubs fit? thanks.
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Re: auto to manual hubs

Postby Hack » Fri Mar 31, 2017 10:42 am

It is one of the easiest mods you can do.

Jack up a side.
Remove front wheel
Remove outer cover to auto hub by taking out bolts
Remove snap ring holding hub to axles
Remove bolts holding hub to assembly

The install of the manual hub is the reverse.
Bolt hub to assembly
Install snap ring to hold hub to axle (Note manual hubs use a different groove on the axle than autos)
Bolt on cover

Then test the manual hub. With the hub unlocked you should be able to spin it and not turn the axle. With the hub locked, the axle should spin when you spin the hub.

Bolt on the wheel and lower the truck.

There are several brands of manual hubs available. I have had good luck with Superwinch hubs. They are available on Amazon for around $120. Some prefer the Warns, others rebuilt Asins.

One other thing: while you are in there it is a good time to repack the front bearings. So you should check the bearings before you start. With the wheel off the ground, hold the wheel in the 2 and 10 oclock positions. If there is play in the wheel, the bearings need repacking. With the hub off you will see 3 screws that hold in the lock plate. Remove them, take off the plate and spin off the nut holding in the bearings.
Mario

Daily Driver: 1995 Trooper Limited, Auto, 3.2L DOHC, Rear LSD, HD Torsion Bars, Moog Cc812s, Cooper Discoverer A/T3 245/70-16
Trail Truck: 2001 Amigo, Auto, 3.2L, Rear LSD, Front Aussie Locker, DOR Drop Dif, HD Torsion Bars, OME 912s, BFG M/T KA2 33x10.5R15
RIP: 1988 Troop 2.6L 5spd. Burnt valve(s). Damaged frame. Parted out. Sent to crusher.
RIP: 1998 4WD Rodeo, Auto, 3.2L -- Ruined by Daughter #1 with Russian assistance. Parted out. Sent to crusher.
RIP: 1989 Troop 2.6L 5spd --- Stripped of all good parts. Body and rotted frame sent to the crusher.
RIP: 1999 2WD Amigo, Auto, 3.2L -- Engine blown and body damaged by Daughter #2. Parted out. Sent to crusher.
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Re: auto to manual hubs

Postby oldestisuzuist » Fri Mar 31, 2017 12:17 pm

"Install snap ring to hold hub to axle (Note manual hubs use a different groove on the axle than autos)"
Note also that the auto hub snap ring is the wrong size and the new manual hubs won't come with a new proper sized snap ring.
I think the proper size is 26mm but 27mm/1-1/16" will work.
'78 LUV, 1.9, headers, 4-spd, SAS Dana 30 front, Dana 20, SOA rear w/Aussie Locker, 31's, serious body cancer, bought new 12/4/78.
'87 Trooper, 2.3, headers, 5-spd, 31's, ball joint flip, Aussie Locker rear, Superwinch hubs, brush guard w/5.5K winch, needs motor, work in progress.
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Re: auto to manual hubs

Postby harrisong » Sat Apr 01, 2017 10:12 pm

Great guys, thanks a lot, that was my next question, about the snap rings coming with the manual hubs or not, and where to source a snap ring, it seems that a standard 26mm snap ring will do, any thoughts? thanks again.
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Re: auto to manual hubs

Postby harrisong » Sun Apr 02, 2017 6:05 pm

oldestisuzuist wrote:"Install snap ring to hold hub to axle (Note manual hubs use a different groove on the axle than autos)"
Note also that the auto hub snap ring is the wrong size and the new manual hubs won't come with a new proper sized snap ring.
I think the proper size is 26mm but 27mm/1-1/16" will work.


another thought, I have read there is a need for a shim when installing the manual hubs, have you had any experience with this, or does it depend on the thickness of the snap ring
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Re: auto to manual hubs

Postby oldestisuzuist » Sun Apr 02, 2017 7:27 pm

It depends on how far the axle sticks through the hub, there needs to be a little movement in & out but not so much the axle can pull back enough to break the inner hub seal & allow bearing contamination. The snap ring can't be any thicker than the groove it fits in.
'78 LUV, 1.9, headers, 4-spd, SAS Dana 30 front, Dana 20, SOA rear w/Aussie Locker, 31's, serious body cancer, bought new 12/4/78.
'87 Trooper, 2.3, headers, 5-spd, 31's, ball joint flip, Aussie Locker rear, Superwinch hubs, brush guard w/5.5K winch, needs motor, work in progress.
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Re: auto to manual hubs

Postby Hack » Sun Apr 02, 2017 9:49 pm

I have never had to use shims.
Mario

Daily Driver: 1995 Trooper Limited, Auto, 3.2L DOHC, Rear LSD, HD Torsion Bars, Moog Cc812s, Cooper Discoverer A/T3 245/70-16
Trail Truck: 2001 Amigo, Auto, 3.2L, Rear LSD, Front Aussie Locker, DOR Drop Dif, HD Torsion Bars, OME 912s, BFG M/T KA2 33x10.5R15
RIP: 1988 Troop 2.6L 5spd. Burnt valve(s). Damaged frame. Parted out. Sent to crusher.
RIP: 1998 4WD Rodeo, Auto, 3.2L -- Ruined by Daughter #1 with Russian assistance. Parted out. Sent to crusher.
RIP: 1989 Troop 2.6L 5spd --- Stripped of all good parts. Body and rotted frame sent to the crusher.
RIP: 1999 2WD Amigo, Auto, 3.2L -- Engine blown and body damaged by Daughter #2. Parted out. Sent to crusher.
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Re: auto to manual hubs

Postby harrisong » Tue Apr 04, 2017 9:19 pm

fantastic, I have found some 26mm snap rings, did not think they would be that hard to find haha, guess we haven't fully gone to metric yet. expensive but I guess that's the way she goes, cant wait to install, thanks again for the info everyone.
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Re: auto to manual hubs

Postby Oregon RS » Tue May 02, 2017 4:38 pm

Ive done this swap on both of my Troopers.
The first truck needed a couple of shims on the driver's side axle, but the current truck didn't need any.
It's super easy as long as you match the spline count to your axles and the old hubs haven't chewed them off entirely.

Here's another tip...
There is a threaded hole in the center of the axle with the same thread as those #10 bolts that seem to hold most of these trucks together.
If you thread the bolt in there and grab onto the head with a pair of vice grips, it makes it a LOT easier pull the axle out far enough to seat the inner hub seal and get the shim and snap ring installed...otherwise, it can be a bit of a circus act with you standing on your head while trying to pull the axle forward while fitting the snap ring, at which point you hear the pinging sound of the ring bouncing off across the shop somewhere when your greasy hand slips....

Also, pick up one of these next time you're at teh hardware store:
https://www.grainger.com/product/22FL05&AL!2966!3!166588805278!!!s!82128169437!?gclid=CPaRuOqE0tMCFYGHfgodW5YOtA&s_kwcid=AL!2966!3!166588805278!!!s!82128169437!&ef_id=WQjqkgAABRl82CFC:20170502202242:s

Cut a 1/4"-3/8" notch in both sides of the perpendicular part of the 'T' to make a cheap little "hub wrench" you can store in your door pocket. Works a lot better than your cold, wet, slippery hands, or worse...a pair of pliers... :shock:

Good luck, and enjoy your new hubs
White 1989 RS
Aisin Hubs • BFG All Terrain TA's • Delta 272 Cam • Magnaflow Cat and Muffler with 2-1/4" Pipes • 2nd Gen Rodeo Side View Mirrors • Yakima Bars • and [•]||||||||[•]

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