Valve Cover Gasket Replacement Instructions

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Valve Cover Gasket Replacement Instructions

Postby crs95 » Sat Feb 28, 2015 6:54 pm

OK. I decided to put together a pictoral tutorial for changing out the valve cover gaskets on 2nd gen. Troopers, 6VD1 SOHC, specifically my 1995 Trooper.
I know that many, if not most, Trooper owners on this site have done this before...but most folks just get it done, not really worrying about taking pictures. This is mainly for those new to the truck, or to this site. Hopefully it will help.

If you have any additional requests for photos, let me know.

Legal-ese first...I make no warranty, expressed or implied, as to the veracity or accuracy of the pictures or instructions contained herein. You undertake these procedures at your own risk. Blah, blah, blah. You'll notice that I have edited these posts several times in order to insert new information or to clarify the post due to questions that others asked.

The first thing I did was to gather my supplies. I recommend replacement with genuine OEM parts. Mine lasted for 240,000 miles and I see no reason that factory parts can't take me another 240,000 miles.
1. Valve cover gasket set - $15
2. Intake manifold gasket set This may come with 3 pieces. One for the plenum and two for the intake runners below the plenum. If not, you need to order a plenum gasket - $20 for the 3-piece kit
3. Throttle body gasket - $6
4. Coolant temp. sensor (I started all this because I wanted to replace this sensor) - $10
5. Coolant temp. switch (Mine was good, but these two are right next to each other and while I"m at it....) - $7
6. Fuel injector o-ring replacements (if you want to do this at this time). This is not usually a hassle to do on its own. - $12/set
7. EGR gaskets, both ends - $7 for both gaskets
8. Metric socket set, to include a 5mm hex head socket (for the valve covers themselves). I used nothing smaller than a 10mm and nothing larger than a 15mm. Mostly 12mm.
9. 3 cans of Brake cleaner - $3 for two cans.
10. nitrile gloves or mechanics gloves - $4
11. new coolant hoses for the pipe-to-heater core. Gates #18957 & 18958. You will want to replace EVERY coolant hose behind this intake while you have it off. There are two others (one large and one smaller one) - $8/ea.
12. new o-rings for the crossover pipes under the plenum. The Honda part #s and quantities needed are as follows: 1 @ 9-09561-338-0; 1@ 1-09623-130-0 You can still order these at Honda, online or at a dealer. The best place is, of course, JLEMOND here at the planet. He has them in stock and at a decent price. I got them for a whopping $2.20 total.

I recommend proceeding in th following order: Removal of throttle body, removal of intake, removal of lower plenum with injectors attached, clean area, removal of coolant pipes, R & R coolant gaskets, replacement of lower plenum w/gasket, removal of valve covers, replacement of valve covers w/ gasket, replacement of intake w/gasket. The reason for this is in Round 3.

Getting started:
First, pull the fuse for your fuel pump. Crank the car to relieve any residual fuel pressure and then take off your gas cap. This will be necessary when we remove the fuel rails ahead of the lower plenum.

Then, open the coolant drain at the bottom of the radiator. You need to remove about 1 gallon of coolant. If you don't, every time you open a coolant hose or line, you dump coolant in the valley under the intake and you have to get it all out with rags or towels. Why make work for yourself?

Next, I got my floor jack out and placed it under the transmission housing. I removed the two 15mm nuts holding the transmission mount to the crossmember. I then jacked up the transmission about 5 inches. This will not hurt anything as long as you do not start the motor while it is jacked up. If you do, you introduce a radiator hose to your engine fan. No es bueno.
The reason for this will be made apparent when we go to take off the valve cover gaskets.
Last edited by crs95 on Wed Mar 11, 2015 5:02 pm, edited 8 times in total.

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Re: Valve cover gasket replacement-1995 Trooper LS SOHC

Postby crs95 » Sat Feb 28, 2015 11:41 pm

At this point, I got to work taking off the intake manifold. Before you start unbolting and removing, take 4 or 5 pictures of everything in its original state. When in doubt, refer back to your pictures. Here are mine:
024.JPG

025.JPG

026.JPG
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Re: Valve cover gasket replacement-1995 Trooper LS SOHC

Postby crs95 » Sat Feb 28, 2015 11:57 pm

Round Two

I began by removing the coil pack and plug wires from its mounting point.
028.JPG


I pulled the throttle cable from its clips on top of the intake, and began removing the vacuum hoses from the intake.
029.JPG


I then took the intake hose loose from the throttle body. This was followed by removing the throttle body from the manifold. Most of the bolts are of the 12mm variety.
031.JPG


This is a view of the backside of the throttle body upon removal. Not as caked up as I thought it would be, but still needing a lot of cleaning. Enter brake cleaner, can #1.
032.JPG


Here is what you will see once all this is out of the way. Lots of room to pull that valve cover off.
033.JPG


Let's not get in a hurry here, though. There's more.
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Re: Valve cover gasket replacement-1995 Trooper LS SOHC

Postby crs95 » Sun Mar 01, 2015 12:21 am

Round three!

At this point, please do as I advise and not as I actually did. I went ahead and removed the valve covers. Not the best idea at this point. If you do this, when you go to clean everything in the valley, you run the risk of introducing TONS of contamination into your valvetrain. Go ahead and do all of the work in the valley, then pull your valve covers before you reinstall the intake manifold. I just covered the exposed valves with clean, lint-free towels as I cleaned everything up. Do NOT cover them with plastic. Water will condense under the plastic and will create a thin veneer of rust on the cam lobes. It will come off after about 3 minutes of running the engine, but no reason to let any get on there in the first place.

OK. I said "there's more," and I wouldn't lie. :D On each valve cover, there are 10 bolts (12mm). 4 across the top (long), 4 across the bottom (short), and 1 on each side (long).
At issue, though, is that on the driver's side cover at the firewall, the EGR tube prevents you from easily accessing one of the bolts on the valve cover. The EGR tube is fairly easy to remove at this point, so go ahead and unfasten it at the pipe fitting on the valve itself, and at the 12mm bolt, and 13mm nut at the exhaust manifold. This will allow you to clean the tube and install new gaskets.

So, with that in mind...
Take out the 12mm bolts holding the intake to the plenum. There are two bolts that you must remove that have a nut on them, but are topped with a Torx-looking tip. I just grabbed vise-grips and unbolted them. The second picture shows the one in the back of the intake; it is square in the middle of the picture.
035.JPG

040.JPG



At this point, you should be able to take your intake manifold off of the plenum. You will see something like this. If you don't, you aren't working on a Trooper anyway, and I can't help you.
042.JPG
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Re: Valve cover gasket replacement-1995 Trooper LS SOHC

Postby crs95 » Sun Mar 01, 2015 12:41 am

Round four!

The fuel injector harness has to come off. Pinch the clips on the individual injectors and pull straight off. Once all of the plugs are off the injectors, the whole harness can be lifted up and to the right of the engine.
Then you have this.
049.JPG


You do not have to remove the fuel rail and injectors. They can be removed with the lower plenum and removed individually. There are 2 bolts and 4 nuts (12mm) holding the lower plenum to the top of the engine. Below this is the "Valley of Doom" If you are having mysterious coolant leaks that you just can't seem to track down, this might be the source. There are 2 o-ring/gaskets here that likely have gone bad and need to be replaced. Here is the view with the plenum taken off:
048.JPG


If you listened to me earlier, your valve covers are still on the car. You can now stuff the intake ports with some CLEAN rags, newspaper, pretty much anything that will not leave residue behind. I like rags because they can get wet and not fall apart. Get everything covered up and protected. Then proceed to clean everything you can get to. Brake cleaner, rags, shop vac, use 'em all. Get it as clean as possible, then you can remove the rags and use them to clean the mating surfaces where your new plenum gasket will go.
Next will be to replace the o-rings/gaskets in the "Valley of Doom." That's for the next installment in a couple of days. Anything you want to add, go for it.
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Re: Valve cover gasket replacement-1995 Trooper LS SOHC

Postby crs95 » Wed Mar 04, 2015 10:42 pm

Round five!!

OK, today I pulled the coolant pipes found under the lower plenum. If you look closely, you can see lots of muck and dirt and grime under that plenum. In getting those pipes out, you will have to pull a lot of the smaller pipes and hoses at the front of the engine.
First is the large top pipe that runs from the top of the radiator to the crossover at the back of the head.
009.JPG


This is the o-ring that needed to be replaced. It had lost all of its girth and was flattened out. Brittle (broke when I tried to pull it off), but was still holding coolant pressure. Not bad for a 20 year-old, 245,000 mile o-ring.
004.JPG


While you have the large pipe out, go ahead and change out all of the small hoses attached to the front end. I was able to get that 90 degree small hose from Advance for around $4. Dayco #71692 Fits perfectly. Everything else is standart coolant hose, cut to length.
005.JPG


Next was the smaller pipe below. This one goes from a tunnel at the front of the valley, up and left at the back of the engine. Same deal with this o-ring. Flattened and brittle, but still holding pressure.
007.JPG


Here it is with the replacement o-ring. Interestingly enough, in all of the parts diagrams, this pipe shows 2 o-rings needed. I put both o-rings on the pipe, but it would NOT go back into the tunnel at the front of the valley. I took off one o-ring and it went back in very tightly. I'm satisfied that it will hold pressure.
008.JPG
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Re: Valve cover gasket replacement-1995 Trooper LS SOHC

Postby crs95 » Wed Mar 04, 2015 10:53 pm

Since I do not heed my own advice and I have already taken off my valve covers, I decided to go ahead and replace the coolant temperature sensor and coolant temperature switch at the back of the passenger side valve cover. They will never be as easy to switch out as they are right now. 17mm deep socket for the sensor, 12mm deep socket for the switch. Since they are metal on metal, judicious use of teflon tape is recommended. Do not use pipe dope, however.
001.JPG

002.JPG


Now is also the best time to replace the heater to pipe hoses that are found behind the passenger side valve cover. My hoses were crazed and would collapse with very little finger pressure. An accident waiting to happen.
043.JPG


Now it is time to start buttoning everything back up! Tomorrow I will install the intake runner gaskets, then the plenum gasket, then the valve cover gaskets. Last will be the intake gasket and the throttle body gasket.
Every coolant hose and vacuum hose is replaced
More to come later.
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Re: Valve Cover Gasket Replacement Instructions

Postby isuzu95 » Fri Mar 06, 2015 10:22 am

Thanks for all the effort.

Curious as to how you got the passenger side valve cover off with the heater hoses/heater hose pipes in the way.
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Re: Valve Cover Gasket Replacement Instructions

Postby crs95 » Fri Mar 06, 2015 11:45 am

If you remove the two fuel hoses at the front/top of the cover, you can tilt it up at the front and slide it out. It isn't easy, but it is doable. It should make it interesting getting it back in today. My fuel hoses were starting to crack at that point anyway.

Also, the bracket that holds the two heater hoses in place was not bolted in the back of the cover like it should have been. It made it easier to remove the valve cover, but now I have to decide whether or not to re-fasten the bracket now. It was not hurting anything and it may be more trouble than it is worth.

I always use some black RTV to hold the gasket in place and provide just a little extra seal. That works most of the time.
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Re: Valve Cover Gasket Replacement Instructions

Postby ZuBrew » Fri Mar 06, 2015 3:16 pm

This should be in the Hall of Fame section. Thank you for the effort into making this write-up. Please include the torque values if you have them. Much appreciated.
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Re: Valve Cover Gasket Replacement Instructions

Postby crs95 » Fri Mar 06, 2015 3:21 pm

Thanks, man.
Also, thanks for bringing that to my attention. Not everything just goes back on "tightly." You might need to put a torque wrench to it, and I will provide those values as I begin re-assembly.
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Re: Valve Cover Gasket Replacement Instructions

Postby crs95 » Fri Mar 06, 2015 3:31 pm

And all of this to replace one coolant temp sensor. :D
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Re: Valve Cover Gasket Replacement Instructions

Postby crs95 » Sat Mar 07, 2015 5:59 pm

OK, next verse.
Decided to go ahead and reinstall the valve covers today. To make it easier to take off the passenger side cover, I had removed this bracket toward the front/side of the passenger side valve cover. It is held on by two nuts just above the exhaust.
044.JPG


I cleaned both of them up really well with brake cleaner
image.jpg


and installed the new gaskets with some RTV to hold them in place until I could put the cover back in. If you do this, make sure that the gaskets are installed in the covers well and that all of the holes in the gasket and cover line up. You don't want to try to thread the bolts in and have them not be able to make it through because the gasket is blocking the hole.
image.jpg

image.jpg


While the RTV was curing, I reinstalled the heater hoses at the firewall. Remember, top-bottom, middle-middle
I left the tops off until I reinstalled the valve cover so I could move the two connected coolant pipes out of the way while I put the valve cover back on.
image.jpg
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Re: Valve Cover Gasket Replacement Instructions

Postby isuzu95 » Sat Mar 07, 2015 9:50 pm

Nice work - thanks for the update.
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Re: Valve Cover Gasket Replacement Instructions

Postby crs95 » Sat Mar 07, 2015 10:00 pm

Thank you.
This is taking longer than I thought. Not due to difficulty, but getting a couple of hours of time alone to work on the truck. The weather has not cooperated either. Hopefully, no one is waiting on these updates to finish up their own trucks. :D
Really, at this point, it is a simple matter of reversal to button everything back up...but I want to post pictures up until the bitter end.
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Re: Valve Cover Gasket Replacement Instructions

Postby crs95 » Mon Mar 09, 2015 11:53 pm

Here we go again.

I went ahead and R & R'ed the lower intake with the injector rail. This was pretty easy to do. One 10mm bolt at the front holding the line with the fuel pressure regulator and I was able to pull off the fuel rails off the lower intake with the injectors still attached by the metal clips. Be careful that you do not lose the four 1/2" rubber grommets located between the fuel rail and the intake.
isuzu pics 011.JPG


This thing was the dirtiest part of what I've taken apart so far. It took me about 45 minutes with a can of brake cleaner, hot sink water and some engine degreaser, but I got it cleaned up pretty well. I saw no real reason to kill myself making it look real pretty inside the runners. I just made sure that anything that could come off...did.
isuzu pics 010.JPG


I slid the little metal c-clips to the side of the injectors and removed the injectors.
isuzu pics 013.JPG


I would remove one at a time and clean them up before taking them to be tested. They all tested well, so the only R & R to be done was new two new o-rings on each injector. Then, with a little lubricant, I reinstalled them in the cleaned-up fuel rail.
isuzu pics 012.JPG


So after about an hour and-a-half, I was looking at this.
isuzu pics 014.JPG


Not bad for $30. $12 for the o-rings and $18 for the injector testing.
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Re: Valve Cover Gasket Replacement Instructions

Postby isuzu95 » Tue Mar 10, 2015 12:01 am

Outstanding work sir! Thanks again for the latest update.
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Re: Valve Cover Gasket Replacement Instructions

Postby crs95 » Wed Mar 11, 2015 4:54 pm

Putting back on the valve covers.....


Remember to apply a small glob of sealant at the base of each side of the cam towers, like so. All eight corners.
028.JPG


Reinstall the valve cover and torque hex bolts to 5 ft./lb., or 60 in./lb., if you have that type of wrench.
030.JPG


I installed the new lower intake gaskets. Don't use any RTV here, it has a bead of blue gasket maker that will accomplish what we're after.
031.JPG


Install the lower intake, and torque the bolts and nuts to 17 ft./lb. or 204 in./lb.
032.JPG


Now you can re-attach the injector harness to everything, including your coolant temp. sensor and switch.
033.JPG


Now that the valve covers are back on, you can finish installing the upper ends of the heater hoses in back of the passenger side valve cover. Do the lowers while the cover is out and the uppers when the cover is back on. You can also go ahead and install the lower end of the EGR pipe, with new gaskets, as well.
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Re: Valve Cover Gasket Replacement Instructions

Postby isuzu95 » Wed Mar 11, 2015 5:00 pm

Very nice. Thanks.
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Re: Valve Cover Gasket Replacement Instructions

Postby crs95 » Tue Mar 17, 2015 4:52 pm

I am at a standstill on this replacement. I have re-installed everything up to the lower intake. The torque settings are throwing me off. I posted on another thread about the torquing of the valve cover bolts. I have tightened them down as tight as possible, but my torque wrench is still not "breaking" at the 60 in./lb. mark (5 ft./lb.) I do not want to go any further until I am confident in the valve covers. I installed the lower intake and wrenched it down, but I am even less confident that I have reached the 17 ft./lb. mark on those bolts.

I am not sure what to do at this point. So close and yet so far. Probably another hour-and-a-half to get EVERYTHING done, but held up by a torque setting that I am unsure of.
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Re: Valve Cover Gasket Replacement Instructions

Postby isuzu95 » Tue Mar 17, 2015 6:08 pm

I've got my '95 3.2l Rodeo torn down - air cleaner assy - TB - upper plenum - int. manifold w/fuel rail attached to int. manifold - fuel lines and finally passenger side valve cover. Broke off the lower plastic heater core port(opened another thread on this) and am now thinking of a way to patch it vs. bypass. Weather has gotten messing and I'm dealing with some other issues as well.

I noticed that when I loosened the 4 int. manifold nuts and 2 bolts - things were not at all snug. All 6 came loose easily. When I put it back together, it's going to be by feel.

I would be concerned about torque if I were installing cyl head bolts. For me, plenum/int. manifold/valve cover will be by "feel".

Good luck with your reassembly and thanks again for all of your effort.
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Re: Valve Cover Gasket Replacement Instructions

Postby crs95 » Tue Mar 17, 2015 7:13 pm

I am more and more thinking along these lines. I just posted again in my "torque wrench question" thread. Sometimes you almost get a 6th sense about whether or not you are about to spin a nut or a bolt and you just instinctively back off right before that...that's me at this point.
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Re: Valve Cover Gasket Replacement Instructions

Postby crs95 » Wed Mar 18, 2015 1:24 pm

I posted this in my "Torque Wrench Question" thread, but I'll repost here.

I figured out, with the help of my friends at NAPA, that I was not using a light enough touch when I was tightening down these bolts. The wrench was, indeed, giving at the correct setting, but it was almost imperceptable.
I was used to using a much higher value (head bolts) where the "break" is much more noticeable. When I used a lighter touch at the NAPA store, it became much easier to determine the "break." I feel much better about the whole thing now.

The question now is: with a week of those valve covers on much tighter than 5 ft./lb., can I just back off all the bolts and tighten them up correctly, or do I install new gaskets? Will the gaskets "bounce back", or are they permanently mashed?

Any ideas or suggestions?
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Re: Valve Cover Gasket Replacement Instructions

Postby csonni » Sat Mar 21, 2015 7:13 pm

This will be a great help when I take on my project this summer. All just to replace 6 spark plug tube seals.
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Re: Valve Cover Gasket Replacement Instructions

Postby crs95 » Sat Mar 21, 2015 9:18 pm

Glad it might help. Mine was just to replace the coolant temp sensor. I just figured: "While I'm in there...."
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