Replacing the upper and lower ball joints on a 2000 Trooper

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Replacing the upper and lower ball joints on a 2000 Trooper

Postby 2000Trooper » Wed Jun 07, 2006 3:24 pm

Replacing the upper and lower ball joints on a 2000 Trooper:


These are basic instructions on how to replace your lower and upper ball joints on a 2000 Trooper.

Here are the basic tools that we will need: (its missing a hammer)
Image
You will need a 14, 17 & 27mm socket and 14 & 17 mm wrenches. To remove my hubs I need two types of allen wrenches and c-clip pliers. You will also need a ball joint separator for the lower ball joint.

Ok to start:

1. Jack up truck and remove the tire. Make sure to chuck your wheels and use a jack stand on the body of the truck.

Image

Image

We will be removing the upper ball first since it’s the easier of the 2. (I have done a ball joint flip on my trooper, so it might be different.)

2. Remove the cotter pin from the upper ball joint and loosen the nut all the way down but to don’t remove it. Leave threaded at the end of the screw.

Image

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3. Use a hammer to bang around the upper spindle until it releases the ball joint. The upper A-arm will move up so be prepared.

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4. Place the jack under the lower A-arm and pick it up enough to remove some pressure off the nut. With the nut off, remove the 3 screws that hold the upper ball joint to the upper A-arm (14mm).

Image

Here is a picture of the ball joint removed; you can see the ¼ inch spacer still attached:

Image

In this picture you can see the new ball joint with the spacer and the longer screws that came with the ¼ spacer. These are the items I will be putting back in:

Image

5. Attach the upper ball joint to the upper A-arm with the 3 screws/nuts. With the jack already under the lower A-arm, use some pressure to get the ball joint back into the spindle. Tighten the nut making sure that when tight, the hole for the cotter pin is accessible. Insert the new cotter pin that came with the ball joint and bend the ends to secure it.

Image
Image

You are done with the upper ball joint! Now we will continue to the lower ball joint. The lower ball joint will require that we remove more components.

1. Remove the two screws holding your break caliper (17mm). Remove the caliper and place on upper A-arm. Remove the break pads.

Image

2. In my case I have the SuperWinch hubs. Here are the steps to remove them.
a. You remove the 6 small allen head screws and remove the top part of the locking mechanism. You then remove the 6 larger allen head screws. To finish removing the locking hubs, you remove the snap ring.

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Image
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3. Next you need to remove 3 phillips screws that hold a lock washer. Remove the lock and rotate the hub nut that holds the outer bearings in place.
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4. Remove the outer bearing and place aside.

5. Remove the cotter pin from the lower ball joint and remove the nut.
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6. Use the ball joint separator to release the ball joint.
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7. Remove the 4 bolts holding the lower ball joint to the A-arm (17mm).
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8. Once you remove the 4 bolts, push the CV joint out of the hub enough to give you room to remove the lower ball joint. You might have to tap the CV joint shaft with the butt of the hammer to get it to move (I know I did).
Image
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9. Remove the lower ball joint and replace with the new one.

10. Secure the 4 screws holding the ball joint. Install the nut holding the ball joint and the cotter pin.

11. Install the hub items in the reverse order as you removed them:
(7) Outer bearing
(6) Hub nut
(5) Lock washer with the 3 screws.

Image

In the picture above you can also see the hub flange in case you don’t have locking hubs.

11. Replace the hubs, locking or flange in the order you removed them not forgetting the snap ring.

12. Put back the break pads and the break caliper using the 2 screws that you removed.

13. Replace the tire and you are done.

Now you can continue on the other side!

Here are the pictures of the new and used upper ball joints:
New:
Image

Old:
Image

Good Luck!
Jaime

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Postby GenXr » Wed Jun 07, 2006 4:54 pm

I vote to make this a sticky or a hall of fame candidate.

Jaime, thanks for this write up!
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Postby onetouch » Wed Jun 07, 2006 8:35 pm

Simple, clear & well documented with pictures.

Excellent post.

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Postby Gizmo42 » Wed Jun 07, 2006 9:19 pm

One suggestion, not sure how well it works on troopers but works great on 2nd gen rodeos. For the upper ball joint, jack the suspension up a bit and put a peice of wood or steel bar between the upper control arm and the ground then let the jack down. The torsion bar will help pull down and the ball joint should seperate with just a couple smacks. I did mine that way and when Blue couldnt get his seperated I told him about that and it worked fine for him.

The lowers were a different story on mine. Had to resort to a torch and strong pickle fork.
--Dave
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Postby 96TrooperSE » Thu Jun 08, 2006 1:19 am

Does anybody know what size those three phillips screws are on step 3. I noticed mine were stripped when I put on my superwinch hubs. I'll be doing the brakes soon so I'll have to tear that apart.
2000 Trooper Limited: Was 2wd, auto, gas. Now 4wd, 5 speed, diesel.

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Postby 2000Trooper » Thu Jun 08, 2006 9:13 am

I don't know the size, but when I was working on dropping the front diff, I stripped three screws.

I went to the local Isuzu/Honda dealership and got 6 new ones. To be safe I took a picture of where the screws were supposed to fit and one of the good screws for them to compare. I think I paid about 4.00 for all 6 screws.
Jaime
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Postby langforg » Thu Jun 08, 2006 10:27 am

if I remember right they are 4mm x 8 mm machine head flat
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Postby 96TrooperSE » Thu Jun 08, 2006 11:14 pm

Thanks :D
2000 Trooper Limited: Was 2wd, auto, gas. Now 4wd, 5 speed, diesel.

2001 Trooper S: Castrated and sold.

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Postby Blue » Fri Jun 09, 2006 12:47 pm

I agree, this is a hall of fame post. With Gizmos suggestion recently of proping up the UCA with a 2X4, I was able to get my upper ball joints to seperate. I'm new to doing my own work and posts like this are a great help. I'm now looking at the lowers. I had two different upper ball joints, one had been replaced and the other was a mess....
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Postby bigpoppax2 » Fri Jun 09, 2006 12:57 pm

Ask and ye shall recieve.
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Postby mdocod » Wed Jun 21, 2006 2:25 pm

awsom post!!!! nice picts!!! (make this a sticky!)

there are many variations on how to do those ball joints... I've never had to remove my outer bearing on the hub to do mine... but then- I just removed the entire hub...

it's much safer to just back all the tension off the torsion bars when doing this project... this would be a good time to drop in some sway-a-ways from indy-4x or calmini anyways.... use the tension to pop the upper- but then take off the tension to work on the lower.... there's just no good place to put your jack under those control arms and things can get dangerous in a hurry there....

with the c-clip removed- you can slide the cv out of the hub... taking out the outer bearings might make it easier to get some shimmy out of it I suppose.. maybe a bit easier to line back up..

I'd say try the puller pictured in the left side of the "tools" picture... but then after it doesn't work (it very likally won't have enough force) just toss it off a cliff.... remove the entire hub and smack that sucker with a really big hammer.. BFHFTW!!
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Postby 98rodeoman » Sun Aug 19, 2007 6:19 pm

[quote="Gizmo42"]One suggestion, not sure how well it works on troopers but works great on 2nd gen rodeos. For the upper ball joint, jack the suspension up a bit and put a peice of wood or steel bar between the upper control arm and the ground then let the jack down. The torsion bar will help pull down and the ball joint should seperate with just a couple smacks. I did mine that way and when Blue couldnt get his seperated I told him about that and it worked fine for him.

The lowers were a different story on mine. Had to resort to a torch and strong pickle fork.[/quote]

**This is another tip I'd like to mention on the Lower Balljoints that worked for me--
*I broke the castle nut loose..
*placed the jack under the castle nut, then jacked up on it until
the A-arm fully flexed up(vehicle on jackstands)
*got a hold of a Blue point pneumatic pickle fork and a BFH and
went to town on 'er.-balljoint came loose from knuckle/hub
*lowered jack-moved jack to under A-arm, cranked 'er up again,
fully flexed up-was able to remove the four bolts on A-arm
and shimmy the balljoint out of the A-arm.
this was done on a 2WD, so I didn't have to take any CV axles off, but did repack the bearings while I was there, she was hurting for grease too. Anyways, that's my input..take it for what it's worth..
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(indy4x lift-OME 912's+T-bar crank+poly swaybar bushings)
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Postby DavidUK1 » Wed Jul 23, 2008 6:40 pm

langforg wrote:if I remember right they are 4mm x 8 mm machine head flat


They are certainly 4mm. The length is critical. Too long and they protrude through the ring with the threaded holes and push on the outer bearing increasing the bearing preload. You could could probably get away with 6mm long as they are only holding a thin ring in place. The originals may possibly be high tensile steel but I don't know. I have been using ordinary steel for a couple of years and replacing them as necessary only noticed the length problem recently.
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Postby -Deleted- » Thu Jan 07, 2010 12:48 pm

:D great pics and write up 8) neo
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Postby 2000Trooper » Thu Jan 07, 2010 2:21 pm

Glad to help out.
Jaime
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Postby DrMark » Tue Feb 09, 2010 4:54 pm

Looking forward to seeing the pictures when I get home! (photobucket is blocked from work)

Great write-up!
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Ball joints

Postby itsmehb » Wed Jul 20, 2011 7:49 am

Any body know how close this is to do same job on a 1985 trooper. I know my hubs are different. They have a snap ring instead of a circlip.

Also any input on the split quickie repair boots, my outers are cracked?
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Re: Replacing the upper and lower ball joints on a 2000 Troo

Postby finefettle » Tue Jan 05, 2016 10:31 pm

I didn't have to remove the six larger Allen bolts. Just popped the snap ring on the shaft is all that is needed for my 1988 with supperwinch hubs.
I left the upper ball joint disconnected to help get the lower ball joint free of the knuckle. I tried bolting the top up but couldn't get the bottom off with it connected. Also with the two joints loose I was able to swing the knuckle from left to right to get at the lower ball joint bolts. I used a small jack stand to keep the knuckle from hanging to low.
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1991 Trooper LS 4ZE1, Manual,stock
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