How To: Retro-fit Projectors into Rodeo Headlights!

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How To: Retro-fit Projectors into Rodeo Headlights!

Postby clipper 03 rodeo » Sun Jan 01, 2012 12:13 pm

Hey everyone, this is a write-up on how to install a Bi-xenon Morimoto Mini Stage III Kit onto an Isuzu Rodeo. This is a headlight projector retrofit kit that is sold by http://www.theretrofitsource.com. Here is a link directly to the kit that I bought: http://www.theretrofitsource.com/produc ... cts_id=237 (Also a big thanks to member JONBOY345 for originally posting the link up to these kits, if it weren’t for him I probably would have never found them). Do this at your own risk, and I would suggest you only do this if your headlights have a perfectly clear lens on the headlights (i.e. 2000+ Rodeos). I will not be held responsible if you mess up, damage your parts, hurt or kill yourself.
Okay now if you go to the link above, you will see there are several options available to pick from, this is all up to you and what you want. The Morimoto brand is actually made by TRS (the retrofit source) and has a very good reputation. You also have the option to choose from a couple different brands, but I went with their Morimoto brand on all of my stuff. Here is a list of the options I selected for my kit: Morimoto 5five 50w ballast (more light output than 35w), Morimoto 6000k 5five bulbs (D2S), No angel eyes, LHD projectors, I did pay the extra $10 for the resealing glue just in case I needed it, gatling gun shrouds, and the H4/9003 Harness. When ready to purchase be sure you get the right harness for your vehicle, mine is the H4/9003, but yours may be different. All you need to do is check what kind of headlight bulbs your rig takes, and that's the kind of harness that you need. The whole kit was $310 shipped to my door.
What's so special about this kit? Well i'll tell you. With this kit you do not have to cut your headlight housing to install the projectors, they simply adapt by using the existing bulb hole in your headlights. The projectors are also bi-xenon, which means it has a low beam/ high beam feature with just the single projector. This is possible by having a small solenoid in the projector that lifts and lowers a shield inside of it. With the low beams on the shield is up, and that’s where you get your cut-off line from. Now if you turn on your high beams, it activates the solenoid and lowers the shield so the cut-off line is gone, and the beam will shine farther and higher. You also get to choose which kind of shrouds you want to go around your projectors to have your own unique look.
Another cool thing about this kit is that it comes with a full plug and play relay wiring harness so you will not have to cut or splice any wires to install the kit.
Lastly this kit comes with a 2 year worry free replacement warranty on everything in the kit. From a ton of research if anyone has had trouble with their kit, TRS had great customer service and made things right, or helped them get through the troubles they were having with their kit. Couldn’t ask for more than that.

Your probably already tired of reading this, but if your seriously considering getting one of these kits, keep on reading. There isn't much more before we get to the instructions and pics.

The last thing I want to talk about is the ballast/bulb options. For ballast you have the choice of getting 35w or 50w, almost all cars with an OEM HID system come with 35w systems for reliability and so they will last as long as possible. TRS recently came out with their 50w ballast, and also introduced their new bulbs (Morimoto 5five 50w) to go with your kit if you get the 50w ballast. These have a thicker quartz glass capsule and beefed up electrodes compared to the 35w version, and should last a very long time. Their output and reliability is up to par with the Philips bulbs, which have a very good reputation. So either choice would be a good one, but the 50w kit (for just $5.00 extra over the 35w kit) seems like it would be worth it for the extra light output it produces (26% more light than the 35w system). The downside is that these run hotter than the 35w systems, and over time you can possibly burn the bowl in the projectors. So if you still don't feel comfortable upgrading to the 50w kit, go ahead and get the 35w kit and i'm sure you will be happy. I’m taking my chances with the 50w system since I don’t drive my Rodeo at night to often, and since it has a 2 year warranty on all of the parts I should be able to get replacements if anything happens to them. Now once you have chosen which type of bulbs you want, you can choose which kelvin rating you want. This determines the color output of your HID bulbs, they currently only offer 4 different ratings for the 35w, and 3 different ratings for the 50w.
35w:
3000k = yellow
35w & 50w:
4300k = white with a slight yellow color to them
5000k = pure white (no yellow or blue in it)
6000k = white with a slight blue color to them

They only offer the bulbs up to 6000k for a reason, once you start getting higher on the Kelvin scale the more blue/purple the color will become, but the light output actually starts going down at that point. They want their kits to produce the maximum amount of light so they don't offer anything over 6000k, I got the 6000k bulbs with my kit since I already have some 6000k HID's in my fog lights and liked them, so I got these to match. Plus they will still have great light output. If your wanting the best light output you can achieve the 5000k bulbs would most likely be the best
Last edited by clipper 03 rodeo on Sun Jan 01, 2012 2:22 pm, edited 1 time in total.
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Re: How To: Retro-fit Projectors into Rodeo Headlights!

Postby clipper 03 rodeo » Sun Jan 01, 2012 12:14 pm

Now that your bored as hell from reading, lets get to the actual install process with some pics.

The very first thing your going to want to do is open up your box and make sure all your parts are in good shape and not damaged. Here is a pic of all of the stuff that came with my kit
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If everything checks out then you are ready to do the install. You will now want to go remove your headlights from your rig, I’m not going to go into great detail about this since its pretty much common sense. On mine I had to remove the corner lights from beside the headlights (2 phillip screws), pop the whole front grill off (mine is only held on by tabs, so be careful not to break them) then from there all of the bolts to the headlights will be exposed. All of mine were 10mm, then unplug the light and do the same for the other.

After you get the headlights off take them inside and lay the lights on a carpeted area or just lay a towel down to work on so you can set the headlight with the lens down and not scratch it. Now the first you thing you want to do is remove all the add on parts from the headlight. On mine I removed 2 rubber hoses (for venting of the headlight) the main headlight adjustment rod (held on with 3 bolts) , then remove the rubber bulb cover, and finally the bulb. On mine there is a metal wire type thing that holds the bulb into the headlight, there is just 1 screw you need to loosen to get the bulb out. Be careful though since this is flexed a little bit and will spring up when you loosen it. After you get that off take the bulb out of the housing. From the back you will still see 2 more screws, you are going to leave these for now since they are holding the reflector bowl that sits in front of the bulb, you can’t pull this out of the back since it’s too big, so we will remove this after we get the lens off. Now remove any other plastic or rubber things that may be attached to the headlight.
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Once everything is off there is one more thing you need to remove before baking the lights. There will be some metal clips around the whole headlight (on mine there were 2 on top, and 2 on the bottom) that are helping hold the lens on the housing, you need to remove these. All I did was use a flathead screwdriver to pop these off, they should come off fairly easy. You must also be careful with these since they will fly off with some force when you pop them off, be careful not to let one hit your eye or lose them.
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Now your officially ready for baking the headlights to remove the lens from the housing. You will want to only do 1 light at a time mainly because if you do both, one might cool to much before you get the other one apart, then you will have to bake it again to soften the glue up more. So do just 1 at a time. For mine I baked each light in the oven at 250 degrees for 10 minutes. I first set the headlight on a baking pan, let the oven heat up to the desired temperature (250 in our case) then pop the light in the oven and set a timer. Just to be on the safe side take a look at them every few minutes to make sure they aren’t deforming.
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After the 10 minutes pull the pan out of the oven with the light on it, and get a nice pair of gloves (well it’s better to have gloves ready before you even bake them) that way you can pick the headlight up off of the pan. Take the light over to your work station (remember if your doing it on a table or something use a towel on the surface so you don’t scratch the lens), then start prying them apart. It’s A LOT easier to do this with another person, that way one person can hold the housing while you pull on the lens, be sure to not go overboard on the pulling and crack the lens. I also used a flat head screwdriver to help separate them and it worked perfectly. After you get this done take your other headlight and do the exact same with it.

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Assuming you didn’t melt your headlights, let’s move on to the next step.

Go back to the rear of the headlights and remove the 2 screws you left in that’s holding the reflector bowl in the headlights. After you remove them, simply remove the bowl from the headlights.

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Last edited by clipper 03 rodeo on Sun Jan 01, 2012 2:35 pm, edited 2 times in total.
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Re: How To: Retro-fit Projectors into Rodeo Headlights!

Postby clipper 03 rodeo » Sun Jan 01, 2012 12:14 pm

So you now have both of your headlights separated and the reflector bowls out, you will now go get your projectors and bulbs out of the box’s since they are ready to go in. If you look at your projectors, you will notice many different items on the back of the projector. These are all of the items you will see if you remove everything.

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TIP: Before you slide the projectors into the housing of the headlight, take the red/black wires coming from the projector and wrap them in foil, foil tape, or something along those lines. If you install without doing this you may see the reflection of these wires in the headlight) You don’t have to do the entire length of wire either, just the part that’s in the reflector housing.

You will want to remove everything off of the back of the projector until you get to the white silicone part, leave that on. Now take the projector and see if you can insert it into the front housing of the headlight. Mine was a very tight fit but it did clear. Now just insert the threaded part of the projector through the existing headlight hole in the housing until it comes out the back of the headlight, and the white silicone part is up against the reflector housing. Also make sure you pull the red/black wires through the back of the housing. The first thing you need is the adapter (remember mine is the H4 kit, so yours may be a little different on this adapter), slide it over all of the threads until it seats into the headlight housing, this will prevent your projector from rotating. You will now slide on the bigger black rubber ring seal, once that is on you will get the first screw on the lock nut. You will want to screw this on decently tight, I used some channel lock pliers to tighten mine up. Be sure not to go overboard though and crack that housing of the headlight. Just tighten it until the projector is snug and doesn’t move in the housing.

H4 adapter and lock ring on..
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You are now ready to install the bulb. Remove the bulb from the packaging, and you will notice you still have a metal ring with a split in it, another smaller rubber ring seal, and another metal lock nut that came off of the projector. What you want to do is slide the metal ring over the back end of the bulb, then put on the rubber seal face down so it covers the metal ring. If you look into the back of the projector you will see the bulb only goes in 1 way, slide the bulb in, and it should lock in place so it doesn’t rotate. Now the last thing you have is the bulb lock nut, there are 2 notches in it so you can slide it over the notches coming out of the bulb, slide it over the bulb, and tighten the nut down very snug, be sure not to rotate the bulb while tightening this. Once it’s tight wiggle the back of the bulb to see if it has any play in it, if you can slightly wiggle it, tighten the lock nut down a tad more until it’s tight.
Here is a pic of the bulb in place with ring and rubber o-ring installed. I’m holding up the lock ring that holds the bulb in place, as you can see it has the 2 notches on it that go right over the 2 notches on the bulb. Just slide it over the bulb and use your channel locks to tighten until bulb is secure.
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Now comes one of the last parts of installing the projector, installing the finisher shrouds. Mine are the Gatling Gun shrouds, and these will also come with some black plastic rings to install them onto the projector. What you want to do first is slide the black ring into the back of the shroud, and make sure it’s on there good. Now try to test fit the shroud, you may have to do some trimming on the shroud to get it to fit perfectly. Just look where it’s touching, and trim. Just trim a little bit at a time, and test fit again until it fully slides onto the projector. You can use epoxy or something to help hold these on, I’m going to use a tiny bit of silicone on them to help prevent them from rattling off over time.
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What I had to trim to make mine fit (also pictured is my projector with the foil over part of the wires so they don’t reflect in the housing when installed.

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You’re now done installing the projectors! Your headlights should still be separated, and leave them like that for now. They should look something like this..
Before Shrouds
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After Shrouds
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comparison between stock headlight and retro-fitted headlight

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Now it’s time to do the wiring harness. Here is a diagram of the harness laid out and labeled:

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The harness is very simple to understand. It is simply constructed of a relay, 2 ballast plugs (these connect to the plugs on the ballast), 2 solenoid plugs (these connect to the 2 wires that come from the projector for the high beams), a positive wire you connect to the + side of your battery (has a fuse on this wire), a ground wire which can be connected to the - side of the battery or somewhere on the chassis, and the last plug on the harness connects right to one of your existing OEM headlight wiring plugs (which are connected to the bulb on your stock headlights). Now there is only 1 of these connectors on the harness, but as you know your rig has 2 headlight bulbs, so it has 2 connectors that you can plug it into. All you have to do is connect the plug from the harness to either one of the stock headlight plugs, it doesn’t matter if it's the driver or passenger side, it will work either way. After you connect it to one of the plugs, go to the other one that doesn’t have anything connected to it and either leave it, or wrap it up in electrical tape. I'm going to wrap mine in tape just to be on the safe side. The only downside to this harness is that it has a single relay for both of the headlights, so if the relay goes bad, both of your headlights are going to go out. Now you can mod it some so your headlights are ran on independent relays, but i'll take my chances on the single relay. I may even call RTS and get another relay box for my harness to keep as a spare just in case, it would definitely be worth it in case of a failure.

Now before you do anything with the harness, go get both of your ballast (they come with a mounting plate) and find a secure place to mount them. You will want the ballast as close to the back of the headlights as possible so the wires will all reach. Now go get both of your headlights (without the lenses on them). Now mount the lights on your truck with at least a couple bolts each to hold them on good. Now go get your harness and connect everything. For the high beam solenoid wires the projectors do come with a connector you may have to install on these wires to connect them right. You are now ready to install the whole harness, just follow the diagram above and everything should just snap into place. Once it’s installed, you should be ready to test out the lights. First just make sure they fire up, if the both bulbs turn on you know they are functioning right. Also try out the high beams to make sure they work. Mine works perfectly, but for some reason my high beam indicator on my dash stays on rather my high beams are on or not. I’m trying to get that bug worked out at the moment, but everything works as it should.

If everything seems to be functioning as it should, put the headlights back together, you will do this by putting just the housing back into the oven. You only need to put them in there around 3-4 minutes at 250 degrees, then take them out and stick the lens back on the front. It’s best to have some clamps to help hold it down so it seals good and doesn’t pop back off while drying. I waited about 30 minutes and I reinstalled all of the things on the back of the headlight (adjustment screws, rubber tubes, etc..) I also had to trim up the rubber boot that goes on the back of the headlight, you can just use a good pair of scissors to trim yours to fit back on.
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Done..
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Now go install the headlights back on the car, and reinstall any parts you took off to remove the headlights, it’s done!

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Now for the aiming part

What you want to do is grab a tape measure, a screwdriver, and a roll of tape (that is easily visible, not clear). Drive to a place with a big flat wall, park your rig approximately 4 feet from the wall with your lights shining on it. The first thing you want to do is get them as centered as possible, to do this measure how far your projectors are from each other center to center, then go to the wall and measure the centers of the beam on the wall (where the beam curves). You want the centers of the beam to be exactly the same distance apart as your projectors on your rig. On mine the side to side adjustment screw is hard to get to when installed and is a PITA, so if your wanting to do this before you assemble everything and easily take the light back off to adjust a little at a time do so. Once you get them even you will want to adjust the height of the beams, back your rig up approximately 25 feet from the wall (with your beams still shining on the wall). Start with the driver side first since it’s the most important, and more likely to blind oncoming drivers. The adjustment screw for this should be right on top of the headlight (that you reinstalled after baking), The way you adjust this is to measure from the ground, up to the center of your projector on your rig. Now go to the wall and measure up to the same distance, but then go 2.5” LOWER and put your piece of tape horizontally on the wall. (i.e. if your projectors are 40” off the ground, you want the beam on the wall to measure 37.5” from the ground) Then go to your rig and adjust the headlight so the top of the cutoff line is even with the piece of tape you put on the wall. So now your beam is 2.5” lower than the height of your projector from the ground. Now you can easily adjust the passenger side, all you have to do is adjust it so the cutoff line is even with the driver side cutoff line.
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You are now officially done installing and aiming your new retrofit projectors and HID’s. Enjoy!

I also need a new camera that can focus better. Sorry for the crappy pics.. I'll see if I can get better ones later.


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Here you can see how the high beams look..

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Low beam on road..

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High beam on road..

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What it looks like when behind someone. Low beam.

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Last edited by clipper 03 rodeo on Sun Jan 01, 2012 9:16 pm, edited 2 times in total.
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Re: How To: Retro-fit Projectors into Rodeo Headlights!

Postby Ian1006 » Sun Jan 01, 2012 1:42 pm

I think this belongs in the Hall of Fame. Well done, and they look great. A+ for doing it the right way and not doing the cheap PnP route.
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Re: How To: Retro-fit Projectors into Rodeo Headlights!

Postby 98HPasSport » Sun Jan 01, 2012 3:00 pm

Damn took the idea right of my head! I haven't got around to doing mine but looks like you beat me to it! Great job! I'm impressed! Truck looks great! It looks like the hole in the headlight housing is perfect. I was afraid that I might have to cut the housing but looks like you didn't have to. Post some night pics!
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Re: How To: Retro-fit Projectors into Rodeo Headlights!

Postby clipper 03 rodeo » Sun Jan 01, 2012 3:05 pm

Thanks guys. Night pics will be up in about 6 hours. :D
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Re: How To: Retro-fit Projectors into Rodeo Headlights!

Postby smokstac » Sun Jan 01, 2012 3:21 pm

Please be sure to aim them correctly....there's fewer things more annoying (especially at night) than someone who mods their headlights and doesn't aim them right and ends up blinding other drivers.
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Re: How To: Retro-fit Projectors into Rodeo Headlights!

Postby 98HPasSport » Sun Jan 01, 2012 4:13 pm

Did you end up using the resealing glue or did you just reuse the old glue by softening them again in the oven and reinstalling the lenses like you described?
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Re: How To: Retro-fit Projectors into Rodeo Headlights!

Postby Eer-lumni » Sun Jan 01, 2012 4:33 pm

From their website:

Interested in buying bulk? We support small group-buys, and also offer general wholesale and drop-shipping services


Maybe we can get a descent discount if we get enough ppl together.......
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Re: How To: Retro-fit Projectors into Rodeo Headlights!

Postby clipper 03 rodeo » Sun Jan 01, 2012 4:39 pm

smokstac wrote:Please be sure to aim them correctly....there's fewer things more annoying (especially at night) than someone who mods their headlights and doesn't aim them right and ends up blinding other drivers.


I 100% agree with you about it being annoying. Check out the very last part of the writeup and I explained how I aimed them. I did a lot of research before doing this technique, and many people do it this way to get them aimed correctly so I get good light output while not blinding other drivers.

98HPasSport wrote:Did you end up using the resealing glue or did you just reuse the old glue by softening them again in the oven and reinstalling the lenses like you described?


I bought the resealing glue just incase, but I didn't have to use it. I just put the housing in the oven @ 250 degrees for about 3-4 minutes and stuck the lens back on and they sealed fine. I washed my Rodeo twice already since installing them and there is absolutely no condensation build up in either of them, so they must be sealed pretty good.

Eer-lumni wrote:From their website:

Interested in buying bulk? We support small group-buys, and also offer general wholesale and drop-shipping services


Maybe we can get a descent discount if we get enough ppl together.......


It's definetly worth it man, the light out of these things are amazing. Even at $300 it's worth every single penny, but if you could get a few more people interested to do a small group buy to get them cheaper that would be sweet. If anyone buys these and needs help i'm more than willing to try my best to help out.
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Re: How To: Retro-fit Projectors into Rodeo Headlights!

Postby 98HPasSport » Sun Jan 01, 2012 5:33 pm

Also, are those 03-04 Headlight lenses glass or plastic? I got a set of 02 Headlights awhile ago for this conversion and they have glass lenses. The reason I asked is because of whether or not the glass lenses can stand up to the 250F degree oven temperature.
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Re: How To: Retro-fit Projectors into Rodeo Headlights!

Postby clipper 03 rodeo » Sun Jan 01, 2012 6:09 pm

They are plastic. I'm pretty sure your glass headlights would be fine. See if you heated them to quickly they could possibly crack, but 250 degrees over a 10 minute period isn't going to harm them.
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Re: How To: Retro-fit Projectors into Rodeo Headlights!

Postby clipper 03 rodeo » Sun Jan 01, 2012 9:22 pm

I got a couple night pics and tried to post them at the end of my writeup, but now none of the pics on that post work. Does anyone know what I did, or how to fix it so they work? right beside my reply text box it says BBCode is OFF and Smilies are OFF. I've never seen that before.

Edit: My images and smileys work in different sections of the forum. I'm wondering since it's in the Hall of Fame section I can't add pics and such like that anymore..
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Re: How To: Retro-fit Projectors into Rodeo Headlights!

Postby Ian1006 » Sun Jan 01, 2012 9:32 pm

That high beam looks crazy on the wall, bet you can see forever! The aiming looks good and the cutoff precise, looks like you wont be blinding anyone. Thumbs up!
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Re: How To: Retro-fit Projectors into Rodeo Headlights!

Postby streetersam » Sun Jan 01, 2012 9:43 pm

If someone wants to do a group buy, I'm in! Unless I for sure can't use it behind refraction lined lenses on my 00 trooper...someone wanna find me a clear lense replacement?

PS I'm on forum runner and i see no pictures whatsoever
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Re: How To: Retro-fit Projectors into Rodeo Headlights!

Postby clipper 03 rodeo » Sun Jan 01, 2012 9:47 pm

Edit: Got the pics fixed! Thanks Tad!
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Re: How To: Retro-fit Projectors into Rodeo Headlights!

Postby 98HPasSport » Sun Jan 01, 2012 9:59 pm

I'm down for a group buy!

You also had to make sure when you inserted the projectors in the headlight housing that they were perfectly horizontal right? (or else the cutoff won't be lined up between the two headlights and of course, not upside down too).....or is the projector slotted and you can't go wrong putting them into the housing?
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Re: How To: Retro-fit Projectors into Rodeo Headlights!

Postby streetersam » Sun Jan 01, 2012 10:20 pm

I'm on the computer now and I see the pics, just FYI

I know I said it on your build thread but these are so so sick. I absolutely love them, looks so mean and the spread of light is really amazing

If you don't mind maybe get some shots from the drivers seat? That way we can all see from your eyes how it is

I'm super jealous right now
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Re: How To: Retro-fit Projectors into Rodeo Headlights!

Postby clipper 03 rodeo » Sun Jan 01, 2012 10:29 pm

You will have to make sure you put them in strait, it's not hard to get them aligned at all though. There is a line through the threads on the projectors that you can even up with the top of the lights. Sorta hard to explain, but once you start putting them in you will understand it better. Also the Morimoto logo is directly on top of the projector, and the solenoid (for the high beams) is on the bottom of the projector, so there is no way you will get them turned upside down.

Sam, thanks man. Sure i'll go really quick and try to get a picture from the driver seat. Tad got those pics fixed for me, but he has to reactivate the BBCode for them to work. Everytime I try to post here it says my BBCode is OFF for some reason and can't turn it on. I can post the pics anywhere else though, I guess it has something to do with the Hall of Fame section here. So any new pics i'll have to add to my Member Rides thread.
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Re: How To: Retro-fit Projectors into Rodeo Headlights!

Postby Jay » Sun Jan 01, 2012 11:07 pm

That is freakin awesome, and your rodeo looks great with those HID's. NICE JOB AND GREAT WRITE UP. I agree that this should be a hall of fame, sticky, whatever. One small suggestion; in the photo showing the wire harness can you change the color of the words/descriptions to Red? Hard to make out all the words with the yellow color.

I wish I wish I wish my first gen trooper was that easy. I did my research and also decided on the Morimotos from the retro fit source, but I haven't finished grinding down my glass lenses yet. I will stick to the 35 watt version, because after all, one reason to go HID's is the lower wattage draw. At least, in my opinion. And, you know what 'they' say about opinions.......

Count me in on a group buy.

[quote="clipper 03 rodeo"]Hey everyone, this is a write-up on how to install a Bi-xenon Morimoto Mini Stage III Kit onto an Isuzu Rodeo. [/quote]
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Re: How To: Retro-fit Projectors into Rodeo Headlights!

Postby streetersam » Sun Jan 01, 2012 11:11 pm

[quote="Jay"]I wish I wish I wish my first gen trooper was that easy. I did my research and also decided on the Morimotos from the retro fit source, but I haven't finished grinding down my glass lenses yet. I will stick to the 35 watt version, because after all, one reason to go HID's is the lower wattage draw. At least, in my opinion. And, you know what 'they' say about opinions.......
[quote="clipper 03 rodeo"]Hey everyone, this is a write-up on how to install a Bi-xenon Morimoto Mini Stage III Kit onto an Isuzu Rodeo. [/quote][/quote]

Why are you grinding the glass lenses? to make them clear?

I need clear lenses...
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Re: How To: Retro-fit Projectors into Rodeo Headlights!

Postby Ian1006 » Sun Jan 01, 2012 11:38 pm

Pics are working now.
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Re: How To: Retro-fit Projectors into Rodeo Headlights!

Postby Jay » Sun Jan 01, 2012 11:50 pm

Yes. I'm grinding down, actually sanding down, the various refractions cast into the glass so the inside of the lens will be smooth, and hopefully when I'm done, clear. HID's work best in a clear lens. I found someone to make very high quality reproduction lenses but no one wanted to commit to a group buy, so that particular option is dead in the water. I think I posted the beginning of my process here on the planet, but maybe not. I'll look for it.

[quote="streetersam"][quote="Jay"]I wish I wish I wish my first gen trooper was that easy. I did my research and also decided on the Morimotos from the retro fit source, but I haven't finished grinding down my glass lenses yet. I will stick to the 35 watt version, because after all, one reason to go HID's is the lower wattage draw. At least, in my opinion. And, you know what 'they' say about opinions.......
[quote="clipper 03 rodeo"]Hey everyone, this is a write-up on how to install a Bi-xenon Morimoto Mini Stage III Kit onto an Isuzu Rodeo. [/quote][/quote]

Why are you grinding the glass lenses? to make them clear?

I need clear lenses...[/quote]
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Re: How To: Retro-fit Projectors into Rodeo Headlights!

Postby clipper 03 rodeo » Sun Jan 01, 2012 11:51 pm

Thanks Jay. I redid the lettering on my diagram to hopefully make it easier to read, but sadly I can't edit the pics here for whatever reason. If I try to add new pics or edit the ones that are up they won't work. I had to have Tad fix the ones that I added a while ago.

Here is a link to my build thread, I posted the pic of the wire harness there with the new lettering. If it's still to hard for you to read I can make it slightly bigger.

I also got new pics of what the lights look like from the driver seat Sam. Go to link below.

viewtopic.php?f=15&t=54490&p=500876#p500876
Last edited by clipper 03 rodeo on Sun Jan 01, 2012 11:55 pm, edited 1 time in total.
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Re: How To: Retro-fit Projectors into Rodeo Headlights!

Postby Ian1006 » Sun Jan 01, 2012 11:52 pm

[quote="Jay"]Yes. I'm grinding down, actually sanding down, the various refractions cast into the glass so the inside of the lens will be smooth, and hopefully when I'm done, clear. HID's work best in a clear lens. I found someone to make very high quality reproduction lenses but no one wanted to commit to a group buy, so that particular option is dead in the water. I think I posted the beginning of my process here on the planet, but maybe not. I'll look for it.[/quote]

How are you going about it? Starting with a super coarse like 40 grit and then just working your way up and up until its clear again? Sounds like a huge time consuming endeavor. My hat is off to you for going for it.
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