ARB Installed (Front Third Removal - Drop Diff Brackets)

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ARB Installed (Front Third Removal - Drop Diff Brackets)

Postby 2000Trooper » Wed Sep 21, 2005 11:13 am

Here are some pictures of my current project: I have been working on installing an ARB locker in the front of the Trooper. The truck is in San Antonio all broken down in my nephew’s back yard. I’m hopping that I get a chance this weekend to put it all back together!

ARB locker finally installed in the front third:
Image

Here are the rest of the front diff ready for the Darlington drop diff brackets that should get in tomorrow:
Image

Here are the original diff brackets that I’m sending back to Joe:
Image

Here is the ARB front bumper that is waiting for the diff to be installed:
Image

One thing I noticed is that the ARB bumper has a Warn W cut out in front of the bumper?
Image

I also have a set of 285/75-16 Pro-Comp MT Tires ready to be installed. I will post before and after pictures of the Trooper once all the changes are complete.
:)
Last edited by 2000Trooper on Thu Jan 29, 2009 11:46 am, edited 2 times in total.
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Postby bigpoppax2 » Wed Sep 21, 2005 11:38 am

On your scale of one to ten how difficult was pulling the front axle? Honestly how long did it take you?

Reason I'm asking I will be tearing into mine here real soon to do a 4.77 front third and a set of diff drops.

Looks like you have everything under control. That will be a nice looking and performing Trooper when you are done.

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Postby 2000Trooper » Wed Sep 21, 2005 2:57 pm

I had read a previous post on removing the front diff and most said it would take 3 hours. With that in mind I started at about 12:00 noon on Saturday. I finished with the diff on the ground at about 9:00 at night.

What looked like a simple procedure took longer because of some screws in the hubs that would not come out! I had to use a Craftsman screw extractor to remove them. I had 3 screws in all that I had to fight with. These are the screws that hold a lock in place in the hub, they have to come out in order to remove shaft from the knuckle. I also had to make a couple of trips to AutoZone to get loaner tools and to find an elusive allen wrench. I had to remove the speed sensor on the passenger side, but the bolt was an allen type. I tried all my available sizes and could not get one to fit. The 6mm was too big the 5mm was too small and would slip. I bought a 5.5mm and it was also too big. I had to use the locking pliers to remove the bolt.

From 1 to 10 i would consider this an 8. Its not really complicated once you do it once! :D

In case you need them, here are the steps I followed; this is based on a Gen 2/3 Trooper:

1.Raise truck, support frame with jack stands, remove front tires.
2.Remove brake calipers and bracket that holds the brakes. Both driver and passenger sides.
3.Remove the hubs from both sides
4.Remove the passenger side Knuckle. This will include undoing the steering rod end from the knuckle, the lower ball joint and upper ball joint (if you have done a ball joint flip this part will be easy). If you don’t have the tools, go to AutoZone and rent the tools (loan).

Image

5. Undo the driver side upper ball joint.
6. On the newer Troopers you have to remove the VSV assembly (1) and remove one or two vacuum hoses that connect to the actuator. You also have to remove a breather hose connected to the diff shaft and disconnect one switch connector that comes from the actuator (leave the switches connectors that are on the VSV alone).

Image

7. Remove the front drive shaft (I only removed the bolts that hold the shaft into the front third and left the other side connected).
8. Place a jack to support the front diff.
9. Loosen the 4 bolts on the passenger side that hold the diff to the bracket.

Image

10. Remove the 4 bolts that hold the brackets to the frame. You can do this (on the Trooper) without having to remove the steering components. The rear screws are no problem; the problem comes in the 2 screws in the front. When you remove the passenger side screw you need to move the steering wheel to one side to give you enough clearance to fit the socket in. Do the same with the driver side front screw.

Image

11. At this point the diff should be supported solely by the jack. Finish removing the four bolts that you loosened earlier from the passenger side of the diff.
12. With the diff loose move the passenger side CV (with bracket attached) up and out of the way. You will need to move the diff a little to the driver side to get this accomplished. Some others have removed the lower A-arm to give you more space. I decided to remove as little as I could. It did not take too much effort to get it out of the way.
13. Once the diff clears the passenger side shaft, lower the differential until its close to the ground. Remove the jack and slide the diff to the passenger side. This action will free the driver side CV and the diff will come out with the diff bracket and CV still attached.

Image

(in this picture it shows the driver side knuckle removed, I just undid the upper ball joint to give me some space)
14. Once the diff is outside you can work on removing the third and the driver side CV.
Last edited by 2000Trooper on Thu Jan 29, 2009 11:58 am, edited 3 times in total.
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Postby bigpoppax2 » Wed Sep 21, 2005 3:23 pm

Only forgot one step.

Drain the front diff so you don't get gear oil everywhere :lol: :lol:

Nice writeup. I'll reference that as I'm doing it. I'm pretty mechanical, as I've done pretty much everything I've wanted to do on my own. There's only a few things I'll farm out (like ring and pinion installs, and auto tranny rebuilding)

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Postby 2000Trooper » Wed Sep 21, 2005 3:31 pm

Yup :lol: ,

that should be done at the very beginning, right after you lift the truck. Good Point!
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Postby wareagle » Wed Sep 21, 2005 8:42 pm

DOn't feel bad, It took me 9 hours to remove mine too. My problems came w/ breaking the ball joints and getting the 4 bolts out that hold axle to frame. The 4 bolts were very diffeicult to remove. I could not get a socket on 2 of them. A box end wrench was needed, but it took forever. I'd rate it a 7 or 8. Mechanically speaking, the job is simple. Nothing is hard, but there are a lot of procedures and the axle is very heavy.
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Postby Tad » Wed Sep 21, 2005 9:27 pm

Mine took a long time the first time too. By the time I had done it a few times me and two buddies did 2 removals and installs in one night. They came over after work and we ate pizza, drank warm beer (it was quite cold that night) and worked. The diffs came out of the RS and the 94 and were swapped. We finished at around 1am as I recall, and we had the 94 all back together and the RS was close.

You forgot another step: stepping in the pan of gear lube. Those shoes went right into the trash.

As stupid as it sounds, the install is easier than removal. It just sort of slides up into place on the floor jack. Getting it out means loosening this, prying on that, disconnecting this that and the other thing, and just located all of the bolts.

Nice job on the ARB. I was not paying attention when I did mine and I drilled the air line hose in an odd spot on the housing. It was fine but I would have rather have it 1/2" over.

Also, the rear locker has a single piece air line and I found that easier to deal with. There was so much slack in the air line on the front one that I felt as though I would kink it because I had to wind it around the carrier as it is in your photo.

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Postby 2000Trooper » Thu Sep 22, 2005 12:32 am

You’re not kidding about stepping in the pan! :o While I was trying to remove the third, my nephew bumped the pan and got my clothes all dirty! I have washed those clothes 3 times and I still cannot get the smell out!

But the good news is: The differential is all put together! :D

The third and the actuator housing are installed.

All I’m waiting for now is the drop diff brackets so that I can put the driver side CV on and tighten the bolts.

The passenger side will have to wait till I get back to San Antonio (where the trooper is).

I was planning on finishing this job on Saturday, but because of Rita (hurricane) I will have to try to finish it on Friday night! The forecast calls for rain on Saturday.

Will post some pictures tomorrow of the complete differential.
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Postby 2000Trooper » Thu Sep 22, 2005 9:15 pm

Ok, here are the pictures of the drop brackets installed:

In this picture you can see the driver side bracket is installed and ready to slide under the truck:
Image


Here is a closup of the brackets with the CVs installed:

Image

Will post more pictures once they are installed.
Last edited by 2000Trooper on Thu Jan 29, 2009 11:53 am, edited 1 time in total.
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Postby tuner-automotive » Thu Sep 22, 2005 10:27 pm

This should be put in a sticky somewhere along with other DIY write ups.
My VW club does just this and it makes searching for procedures a breeze, aswell as easy reference when newbies ask the same Q, kinda like me. :D
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Postby rezkid » Thu Sep 22, 2005 11:01 pm

Great write up!!! now I know what i'll be getting my self into when I get my Trooper. Still don't know what year though, either a Gen I or a Gen II. You'll have to take pics when you have it installed so we all can see the cv angles.

Oh and the reason that there is a Warn "W" cut out is that ARB/Warn is all one company. :D
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Postby 2000Trooper » Sat Sep 24, 2005 10:36 pm

That’s what I thought when I saw the W cutout on the front of the bumpers. I have also seen where they mount the control box behind the W and the socket where the remote plug goes is right in the middle of the W.

Ok, here is the picture of the finished product: :D

As you can see the CV angle is excellent. I still need to lift the front 1 ½â€
Last edited by 2000Trooper on Thu Jan 29, 2009 11:54 am, edited 1 time in total.
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Postby rezkid » Sat Sep 24, 2005 10:56 pm

Man those cv angles are swwwweeeeeetttt!!!!!!!

how much lift do you have up front in that pic? I don't think 1.5" will hurt it at all. :twisted: :twisted:
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Postby Starchild » Sun Sep 25, 2005 12:28 am

Here's how I ended up clearancing my cross member to eleminate the cross member drop brackets:


Two areas on the stock cross member need to be cut. One is a rectangle that was removed to clear the bottom of the differential. The other is a radius at the rear to clear the driveshaft flange. Both were cut with a cutting wheel on an angle grinder, and finished with a grinding wheel.
Image

This removal of material could compromise the strength of the member, so I opted to reinforce the area with a 3/16â€
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Postby 2000Trooper » Thu Sep 29, 2005 9:24 am

Here is a picture of the front bumper installation:
(the brakets on the floor attach to the frame and then the bumper goes over them.)


Image

and now with the bumper on:

Image

Since the picture i have installed the amber lights and added two pro comp lights in the middle of the bumper. it looks a little better now.
Last edited by 2000Trooper on Thu Jan 29, 2009 11:55 am, edited 1 time in total.
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Postby dean426f » Thu Jun 22, 2006 12:46 am

I was wonder if you had to lift up your front end a little after adding on that bull bar. I'm planning on buying one of those bad boys and was just curious.
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Postby 2000Trooper » Thu Jun 22, 2006 9:26 am

Before I added the drop diff bracket, I had raised the trooper about 2â€
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Postby dean426f » Fri Jun 23, 2006 8:21 pm

Great, thanks for the reply.
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Postby :::Matski::: » Thu Jan 29, 2009 6:24 am

2000Trooper wrote:Image


While talking to Joe D. he did mention that he is working on a better solution to extension brackets. That should help with the cross-member dragging too much!


I moded my own cross member and only lost 1/2" on one side.

Link to pics
You can see at the bottom of the pics I only extended one side 1/2". As the holes the bolts go through are a lot bigger than the bolts there is enough room to twist it down slightly.

Those drop brackets you have are throwing clearance away. Otherwise nice one :D I would love an ARB *Drool*

*Edit* Wow I was a bit late with this one!
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Postby chikoroll » Thu Jan 29, 2009 8:23 am

hey hey, good to see another way about those crossmember drops

not concerned about the void in the diff brackets there?
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Postby 2000Trooper » Thu Jan 29, 2009 10:52 am

:::Matski::: wrote:Those drop brackets you have are throwing clearance away.


Thats what I thought when I put them on. I ended removing them and doing the mod that Starchild did. Modifying the cross member itself for clearance.

Image

You then just strengthen it by welding some pieces around the bottom.
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Postby LTC Don » Thu Jan 29, 2009 11:16 am

The picture links in the original posts are broken. Any chance we can get the images re-uploaded to the Gallery and then re-linked?


Cheers,
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Postby Tad » Thu Jan 29, 2009 11:20 am

LTC Don wrote:The picture links in the original posts are broken. Any chance we can get the images re-uploaded to the Gallery and then re-linked?


Cheers,
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They will beback. Geocities is down. I'm game to have someone upload them here once they return however.

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Postby 2000Trooper » Thu Jan 29, 2009 11:52 am

The images are working again. I moved over to photobucket.
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