How to fix 2nd generation Rodeo driveshaft clunk

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How to fix 2nd generation Rodeo driveshaft clunk

Postby radare » Tue Aug 02, 2005 9:06 pm

2nd Generation Isuzu Rodeo "Rear Clunk" Repair:

The clunk heard, on many 2nd generation Rodeo's, is due to wearing of the grease in the driveshaft slip yoke. To correct this, the driveshaft must be removed and regreased. This is the method I used to correct this; keep in mind, this may not be the best way to do this, it's what worked for me. The entire process took about an hour at a very leisurely pace.

Begin by removing the driveshaft. To do this, mark the location of the driveshaft to the transmission and also, the location of the driveshaft to the differential, to make sure everything goes back together correctly. Remove the four mounting bolts attaching the driveshaft to the transmission using a 14mm socket or combination wrench. To access all bolts, place the truck in neutral and slowly move it until all bolts are accessible.

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Remove the four bolts connecting the driveshaft to the differential.

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With the bolts removed, drop the differential end of the driveshaft and pull the shaft out from under the vehicle. Place the driveshaft on a sturdy work surface.

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Clean the driveshaft and locate the boot. This boot must be removed to separate the driveshaft. Before separating the driveshaft, mark both sides with permanant paint so that you can get it reassembled in the same orientation.

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To remove the protective boot, cut the clamps using sheetmetal shears or side cutters.

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With the clamps gone, pull the driveshaft apart and remove the boot. Using a good degreaser (I used Castrol's Super Clean engine degreaser), thoroughly remove all old grease from the yoke. Use stiff bristled shotgun brushes to remove dirt from difficult to reach places.

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When clean, your parts should look like this:

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Using a good quality grease, carefully lubricate the shaft. Be sure to slide the boot in place before doing this (or you'll end up with a big mess when you notice it missing).

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Slide the driveshaft back together, lining up the marks made earlier. Place one end of the driveshaft on the floor and press heavily on the other end; this will remove any trapped air from the shaft. Wipe up any excess grease.

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I used universal CV joint clamps to reassemble the shaft. These are the band type. I purchased these from Advance Auto.

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Using the appropriate tool, tension the bands around the boot.

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Bend the band 90 degrees, cut to length and tap down the securing tabs using a small hammer.

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When assembled, it should look something like this:

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Finally, use a grease gun (loaded with your favorite grease) to regrease the universal joints.

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Reinstall the driveshaft and torque the mounting bolts. Take the vehicle for a test drive; your clunk should be gone!
Last edited by radare on Sun Jan 03, 2016 10:23 pm, edited 4 times in total.
'94 Isuzu Rodeo 4WD, 3.2L V6. 156k miles (Sold); '01 Isuzu Rodeo LS 4WD, 3.2L V6, 108k miles (Sold).
Currently restoring an '01 Rodeo Sport V6
My other passion: My Yamaha XJ600 and XJ600 Scrambler

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Postby bigpoppax2 » Thu Sep 22, 2005 1:46 pm

Nice write up, especially when accopanied by the pictures.

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Postby timrkopi » Fri Sep 23, 2005 2:35 pm

Would it be a good idea to drill a small hole and put in a grease fitting
when you have it off like this??
2002 Rodeo Sport, 3.2 V6, 4WD, Auto, Hard Top, OME 912, Rancho RS99000 9 position shocks, 2" lift, heated leather, 265/70 Geolanders. EBC Green Stuff w/ slotted rotors. 6.5" Infinity Kappa in front/ 6.5" Polk dbx in back.
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Postby bigpoppax2 » Fri Sep 23, 2005 3:32 pm

I believe some have actually done this with good results.

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Postby radare » Sun Sep 25, 2005 2:18 am

Keep in mind that adding a Zerk fitting will require rebalancing of the shaft, once assembled. I priced balancing locally and was quoted between $110 and $120 for a Dana Spicer 2-piece. Something to keep in mind.
'94 Isuzu Rodeo 4WD, 3.2L V6. 156k miles (Sold); '01 Isuzu Rodeo LS 4WD, 3.2L V6, 108k miles (Sold).
Currently restoring an '01 Rodeo Sport V6
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Postby timrkopi » Sun Sep 25, 2005 12:29 pm

If you put one fitting on each side you should not have to rebalance
the driveshaft.
2002 Rodeo Sport, 3.2 V6, 4WD, Auto, Hard Top, OME 912, Rancho RS99000 9 position shocks, 2" lift, heated leather, 265/70 Geolanders. EBC Green Stuff w/ slotted rotors. 6.5" Infinity Kappa in front/ 6.5" Polk dbx in back.
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Postby philndz » Sun Jan 08, 2006 3:32 am

i'm not getting pics...anyone else?
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Postby Gizmo42 » Sun Jan 08, 2006 3:10 pm

Maybe I should have taken pics of mine. Just took mine apart and regreased it yesterday. Dont think mine was clunking yet since I still have the same pops and clunks I had before. I think mine must be in the front end. At least I know this is done now though.
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Postby radare » Sun Jan 15, 2006 1:28 am

The pictures should be working now and should be up for at least 3 more years as I recently signed with a new hosting service.
'94 Isuzu Rodeo 4WD, 3.2L V6. 156k miles (Sold); '01 Isuzu Rodeo LS 4WD, 3.2L V6, 108k miles (Sold).
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Postby Blue » Thu Mar 23, 2006 4:35 pm

Are you done playing with that Rodeo? With all the personal TLC you have been giving that truck, I'd like to buy it! :wink: Great stuff. Thanks for all the really well done posts. I'm printing them off to have them on hand for when I gain all the skills, tools, time etc. to attempt this stuff myself. Thanks again!
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Postby z-man » Wed Jul 19, 2006 7:56 pm

is this click like when u ---- fom n 2 d or 2 r
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Postby truckitup73 » Mon Nov 27, 2006 1:33 am

good post for eaiser removal next time use hose clamps of the app. size and you wont have to mess with the cv clamp mess but having the tool is a good idea bcause your cv boots will wear out and crack at some point.
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2001 Aluminum Driveline

Postby rcamacho » Wed Dec 13, 2006 8:25 pm

I'm preparing to lube the driveline on my 2001. It's aluminum and appears to be a larger diameter than that pictured in this article. Anyone happen to know what diameter it is so I can pick up appropriately sized CV or hose clamps? If no one knows I'll just measure the circumference myself...
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Postby Gizmo42 » Wed Dec 13, 2006 9:12 pm

I just reused the clamps when I did mine. With a hamer and smallish screwdriver you can bend the locking tabs back and pull the clamps off. Did the same on my inner cv boots since I couldnt get enough boots to do all 4, all clamps are still holding just fine a year later.
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Postby rcamacho » Thu Dec 14, 2006 10:00 pm

Gizmo42 wrote:I just reused the clamps when I did mine. With a hamer and smallish screwdriver you can bend the locking tabs back and pull the clamps off. Did the same on my inner cv boots since I couldnt get enough boots to do all 4, all clamps are still holding just fine a year later.


Nice. Thanks Gizmo.
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Postby boonie45 » Wed Jan 17, 2007 2:48 pm

Are these "special" clamps necessary? Or would any normal hose clamp work?
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Postby radare » Wed Feb 07, 2007 11:34 pm

These "special" clamps will last the lift of the vehicle and are cheap. If you can't find them, source metal zip-ties from McMaster Car or use high-quality plastic/nylon zip ties. Avoid using hose clamps as they can induce an out-of-balance condition. If you must use hose clamps, plase the screw on the front clamp, 180 degrees from the screw on the rear clamp.
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Postby Billster » Thu Mar 01, 2007 11:58 pm

[quote="radare"]These "special" clamps will last the lift of the vehicle and are cheap. If you can't find them, source metal zip-ties from McMaster Car or use high-quality plastic/nylon zip ties. Avoid using hose clamps as they can induce an out-of-balance condition. If you must use hose clamps, plase the screw on the front clamp, 180 degrees from the screw on the rear clamp.[/quote]

Sounds like the same problem I might be having with my 99 4WD Trooper but not sure. When I slow down to stop or turn a corner, the clunk sound comes from the rear end as the vehicle slows to 5-10 MPH. Could this be an Isuzu problem and the same fix work for my Trooper?
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Postby ephebus » Tue Jun 12, 2007 6:17 pm

How do you re-grease the U-Joint? Is there a grease fitting like that on them stock? Is it normal to have a little play (twisting it by hand) in the rear drive shaft when parked in neutral (5 speed)? or is that a major sign that this needs to be done?
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Postby Gizmo42 » Tue Jun 12, 2007 7:46 pm

I dont think the factory joints on 2nd gens have grease zerks. I dont remember seeing any on mine.

You will get some movement by twisting because of slack in the trans/xfer case and axle. You just dont want to see any movement between the flanges of those and the shaft.
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Postby bigpoppax2 » Tue Jun 12, 2007 10:30 pm

x2 on there not being grease fittings on the joints.

There are none on mine.

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Postby DAstormtrooper99 » Tue Jun 19, 2007 4:50 pm

just out of curiousity, does this "clunk" you refer to happen when letting off the accelerator at low speeds? this has been happening in my truck for a while and i've been thinking its clutch related but now after seeing this i'm not so sure
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Postby Slinky » Tue Jun 19, 2007 4:57 pm

I think the driveshaft clunk is only a problem on the 2nd gen. Rodeo's. Might be your u-joints though.
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Postby DAstormtrooper99 » Tue Jun 19, 2007 7:23 pm

how long do u-joints typically last - the ones on this truck were replaced in '04
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