Automatic transmission cooler install *with pics* '01 Rodeo

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Postby WillyLin » Tue Mar 16, 2010 12:13 am

mtaliancich wrote:Sorry, noob here, what do yall mean before or after the radiator? Also, was it very hard to install?


before means the trans oil flow from trans to the cooler first then to the radiator, then back to trans...

it wasn't that hard to install it... and i have had no problem until now...
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Postby 4cfed » Tue Mar 16, 2010 9:51 pm

so for living in maine where it is rarely above 85 degrees. should i put mine before or after the radiator? in the write-up which color hose would i want to tap into? and what would i tap into for a tranny temp gauge?
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Postby Dae » Wed Mar 17, 2010 2:42 am

4cfed wrote:so for living in maine where it is rarely above 85 degrees. should i put mine before or after the radiator? in the write-up which color hose would i want to tap into? and what would i tap into for a tranny temp gauge?

You would want the aux cooler installed "before" the radiator.

Image
Looking at my pic. You you're only going to mess with the hose furthest to the left. DONT touch the MIDDLE hose.
Replace the rubber hose thats connected to the metal output line on the transmission. Run the new hose all the way to the "input" on your aux cooler.
Then from the aux coolers "output", run a new hose all the way into the "input on the radiatior". (Same fitting where you removed the original short rubber hose)



For the temp gauge see quoted post below...
SurferJoe wrote:Put the temp sender unit in the pressure tap (line pressure test) to get a real heat value and that way you get to see what the trans has to work with!

This is a sample on a Ford Trans I did: Image

This way you can tell if the trans is getting hot, not when it's too late.

MOST transmissions have their pressure tap on the driver's side of the case, close to the front of the case and right behind the bellhousing.

In Australia/NZ and some UK-type places, the driver sits on the right (oops, I edited that after I noticed I had made it backwards) side of the vehicle as you are sitting in the front seat of the vehicle.
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4L30E temperature sender

Postby nickya » Mon May 03, 2010 2:59 am

Hello,

Did anyone actually use the line-pressure-test plug on a 4L30E to fit a temperature sender?

btw, it is located on the left side of the 4L30E just above the smaller oil pan and is a bit tricky to get to.

Thanks.
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Re: 4L30E temperature sender

Postby nickya » Mon May 31, 2010 7:16 am

nickya wrote:Hello,

Did anyone actually use the line pressure test plug on a 4L30E to fit a temperature sender?

btw, it is located on the left side of the 4L30E just above the smaller oil pan and is a bit tricky to get to.

Thanks.


anybody? :scratch:
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Postby duel007 » Mon Jul 26, 2010 11:14 pm

Just wanted to say thanks for posting this, Dae. I didn't use your exact cooler, bought mine locally. But the walkthrough really helped. I only had to add maybe 3/4 of a quart of ATF though.
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Postby Dae » Wed Jul 28, 2010 2:36 pm

You're welcome. Glad this is actually helping some. I need to re-route my hoses before fall season rolls in.
I used about 1 quart and a half of ATF, most of it ended up on the ground. The hose on my pump was a little to thick, so I had to squeeze it in the hole then pump the fluid in.
I just put 2-3 quarts just in case. I figured anyone could just return the extra ATF, or keep it for future use.
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Postby duel007 » Thu Jul 29, 2010 2:38 am

Dae wrote:You're welcome. Glad this is actually helping some. I need to re-route my hoses before fall season rolls in.
I used about 1 quart and a half of ATF, most of it ended up on the ground. The hose on my pump was a little to thick, so I had to squeeze it in the hole then pump the fluid in.
I just put 2-3 quarts just in case. I figured anyone could just return the extra ATF, or keep it for future use.


How do you have it set up now? I've got mine going hot from transmission, through the radiator, then through the cooler, then back to the transmission. Here in Iowa it gets down to -10 in the winter, occasionally. Should I change it for the snow season?
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Postby Dae » Sat Jul 31, 2010 12:52 pm

Since I brought my Rodeo with me from a place with a VERY tropical climate, I have it routed after the radiator.
There is alot of debate over which way is the right way. Read post by SurferJoe, he gets into detail with everything including the fluid temps that the trans should be running at.

Id say if its pretty much cold year round, route the hoses before the radiator, that way the radiator can warm the fluid first. Of course when it gets below freezing temperature you could always block air flow to the cooler with cardboard or something.

The important thing is for the return fluid to not be "too cold" (below 160F), which is just as bad as "too hot". Since its pretty cold year round over here, im going to re-route the hoses so that the cooler is before the radiator.


But yeah, its up to you how you want to run it. Best way to know would probably be to install a temp guage and make sure the return fluid isnt too cold.
And on cold days make sure the radiator heats the fluid up to 160F+ before driving it hard.

Read SurferJoes post in this thread and in others. Hope that helps.
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tranny tem gauge

Postby craigermorrow » Fri Sep 03, 2010 2:13 am

I have a 94 V6 with 4L30E tran and used th epressure port to install a sending unit and so far so good. Even though I previously installed a Hayden tran cooler, I was surprised to see the temp sit at around 200 degrees on a rather hot day admittedly but I have pulled a 2000lb trailer over the Sierra Nevada many times and sometimes in 2nd at about 5000rpm and never experienced any problems...plus this Trooper's got 245K on an unrebuilt motor!
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Re: tranny tem gauge

Postby Dae » Fri Sep 03, 2010 11:55 am

craigermorrow wrote:I have a 94 V6 with 4L30E tran and used th epressure port to install a sending unit and so far so good. Even though I previously installed a Hayden tran cooler, I was surprised to see the temp sit at around 200 degrees on a rather hot day admittedly but I have pulled a 2000lb trailer over the Sierra Nevada many times and sometimes in 2nd at about 5000rpm and never experienced any problems...plus this Trooper's got 245K on an unrebuilt motor!

Thanks for the info! Where are you located? Im guessing, Nevada. Did you install the cooler "before" or "after" the Rad? Im really curious to see my temps. Do you have pics of your temp gauge setup? I want to try it before winter. We had some really hot days this summer, and I prefer my cooler being "after" the radiator, for those days.. but for winter im not sure yet, without getting a temp reading.
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Postby N law » Mon Sep 06, 2010 12:39 pm

I have very little experience with transmission coolers but I find it interesting that the input was on the top and not on the bottom.

When I was in college we rigged a condensor water jacket for a pot still and put the input at the top. What we discovered was that the liquid fell and never filled up the void. We we put the input on the bottom, the entire void filled up before the liquid reached the output.

I doubt the tans fluid going through restrictive passageways makes as much of a difference, but it might be something to consider if someone is really trying to get the full cooling power.
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Postby Dae » Mon Sep 06, 2010 3:41 pm

N law wrote:I have very little experience with transmission coolers but I find it interesting that the input was on the top and not on the bottom.

When I was in college we rigged a condensor water jacket for a pot still and put the input at the top. What we discovered was that the liquid fell and never filled up the void. We we put the input on the bottom, the entire void filled up before the liquid reached the output.

I doubt the tans fluid going through restrictive passageways makes as much of a difference, but it might be something to consider if someone is really trying to get the full cooling power.

Thats interesting. Did you guys use water? I know ATF is thicker, but maybe it would be a better idea to have to input on the bottom?
I was thinking that the tranny pump would have a harder time pushing fluid up through the cooler, than having it pump through a straight hose and gravity could assist.

I didnt think it would make that much of a difference. Maybe someone could enlighten us? :dontknow:
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Postby WillyLin » Sat Sep 18, 2010 5:10 pm

So I put a temperature gauge for the transmission. I put a Tee pipe fitting inline the hose goes to the cooler. still need to mount the gauge somewhere in the car but the reading on the gauge is about 150~165 degree in city driving. and if I drive it hard the temp would go up to 180 degree F, I haven't tried to driving up hills yet.. but at least the gauge is working. here's the picture of where the temperature sender locate.

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Postby Dae » Sun Sep 19, 2010 2:17 pm

^^ Those are nice readings, and thats installed "before" the Rad. Thanks for taking the time to post that.
Where did you buy the guage? I want to put one in the pressure tap, as per SurferJoe..
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Postby WillyLin » Mon Sep 20, 2010 6:44 am

I got the gauge from amazon.com... and it's only $17 !!! and if ur student you might still can get the amazon prime account for free for one year and then you'll have free 2 day shipping. I got the Tee pipe fitting from harbor freight.

just need to run one wire from the sender to the gauge. and then get the power from the fuse box next to the steering wheel.

Here's a picture of where I mounted yesterday... And I wire up a white super bright LED with 1k ohm resistor for the light instead using the bulb came with the gauge.

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Postby dunkel25 » Wed Jan 12, 2011 2:55 am

Awesome. Definitely going to look into this mod. I got a AT Oil Temp light the other day and the tranny started acting up. Makes sense that it was running too hot...and this seems like the answer.

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Postby mick4x4 » Thu Feb 03, 2011 5:40 pm

Hi all, this is my first post on here, but I’m a regular poster on the Isuzu Troopers Owners Club site in the UK.

I’m looking at fitting the B&M supercooler 70268 (thanks to the info in this post) to my automatic 1993 3.1 Bighorn.

But I have one question

Will fitting the cooler before the stock cooler in the bottom radiator help in any way with keeping the coolant temp down by cooling the oil before it goes through the rad.

My thinking is, as the gearbox is working hard and the oil is getting hot, in low range at high revs or climbing a steep hill on the road at slow speed, the heat transfer from the oil to the coolant will be razing the coolant temp before it goes back in to the engine.

I have a 17â€
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Postby SurferJoe » Thu Feb 03, 2011 8:15 pm

Cool the ATF before the radiator to take the thermal load off the engine's cooling system and allow the fluid to go through the heat exchanger in the radiator to bring it back to the correct temp before sending it back to the transmission.

This way the transmission gets to run at the correct temp (preferred 180ºF) and this will also suck a little more heat out of the radiator to help cool the engine too.

I prefer to NOT add temp gauges in a cooler line for the reason that there are now several more areas of potential and fatal leaks. I really feel it's safer to take the reading off the main line pressure tap.

It's self grounding mounted in the case and that also keeps the snake pit of wires under the vehicle to a minimum too.
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Postby mick4x4 » Sat Feb 05, 2011 11:27 am

Thanks for that,

One more thing i have the B&M kit but need more hose, all i can find is hose rated to 150 Degrees Celsius will this be ok or do i need a higher rating
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Postby Dae » Sat Feb 05, 2011 1:03 pm

Just make sure its meant for transmission fluid. 150C = around 302F.
The normal operating temperature for the transmission is around 190F, and it can reach into the low to mid 200's F.
So I think it should be fine. Does it have a PSI rating? The Goodyear hose I got said its 350. I seen some that say working max PSI of 400.

I also wanted to mention that I re-routed my hoses so that the aux cooler is installed before the stock radiator.
The input line for the aux cooler is now on the bottom, and the ouput line is now installed on the top.
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Postby SurferJoe » Sat Feb 05, 2011 3:13 pm

Really - the pressure in a cooler line should be minimal.

If the pressure was high, then something is blocking the return to the pan, where the fluid just dumps into a non-pressurized area.

ATF cooling isn't rocket science, but it sure can be fouled up by bad ideas and voodoo logic.

Frankly, I think neoprene fuel hose would work, and work for a long time too.
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Postby mick4x4 » Sat Feb 05, 2011 7:08 pm

i was going to put the flow to the top of the cooler and the return to the bottom as the cooling rad is set up, what’s the benefit of connecting it the other way round.
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Postby SurferJoe » Sat Feb 05, 2011 11:47 pm

In a few minutes of running it'll make absolutely no difference at all.

Once it's purged it'll stay full.
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Postby Dae » Sun Feb 06, 2011 12:19 am

mick4x4 wrote:i was going to put the flow to the top of the cooler and the return to the bottom as the cooling rad is set up, what’s the benefit of connecting it the other way round.

SurferJoe wrote:In a few minutes of running it'll make absolutely no difference at all.

Once it's purged it'll stay full.

Thats for clarifying that for us! We needed your input on that a few months ago. :lol:
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