Automatic transmission cooler install *with pics* '01 Rodeo

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Automatic transmission cooler install *with pics* '01 Rodeo

Postby Dae » Mon Nov 24, 2008 6:42 am

I know there are alot of people looking for some kind of guide for this so i'll give it a shot.
First of all...if you do use this, I take no responsibility or liability if anything were to go wrong. Attempt this at your own risk!

The reason I decided to install an additional cooler is because I already burnt out my first transmission and I want to make this new one last as long as possible,
hopefully the cooler will help with that.

The first thing I had to do was shop. I researched different brands of aftermarket coolers available.
The two brands that seemed to be the most popular were "B&M" and "Hayden".
I decided to go with the Hayden brand. I got a Hayden 1677 Transaver Plus cooler on eBay for about $40.
The sellers name is jmurf1954 and he has 100% feedback.
Image

The cooler kit came with everything needed to install. The hose was a little too "flexible" for my liking so I decided to get stiffer hose.
I bought about 10' worth, the kit only came with 4'.


Image
Items needed
Transmission cooler
11/32" hose (8' should be enough)
4 hose clamps
2-3quarts of Dexron III ATF

Tools needed
Phillips screw driver
Long flat tip screw driver
12mm,14mm & 19mm socket
Wrench
Pliers
Pump (to top off the ATF)
Knife, blade, hacksaw (something to cut the hose)
Oil drain pan

Optional
Nuts, bolts, spring lock washers, flat washers (to mount the cooler)
Plastic tie straps
Pipe insulating foam
Scissors
Snippers


Lets get started.... first thing we need to do is remove the grille.
Only clips and one phillips head screw hold the grille down.
Image
Red = flat tip screw driver needed
Yellow = long flat tip screw driver needed
Blue = phillips screw driver needed

Remove the phillips screw
Image

Pry the clips upward until it "releases"...you should hear a "click"
Image
Remove the grille

Loosen the two 12mm bolts that hold down the radiator mounting support brackets.
Image
This will give you a little clearance behind the a/c conderser unit so you can bolt, or plastic strap the cooler to the condenser.

Find a place to mount the cooler. I chose to bolt it right in front of the a/c condenser.
The condenser already has holes that you can use to bolt the cooler right up against it.
The bolts that were included with my kit were too short, so I had to purchase some longer ones.
You could use the plastic straps included with the kit to strap it to the condenser. Some people strongly advise against doing this as it could cut through the fins
and piping of the condenser unit.
I decided to use one in the top right corner just to help keep it in place.
I used two bolts, two spring lock washers, and a flat washer to mount the cooler to the bottom of the condenser.
Image

Once you have it mounted you have to choose how to run the hoses without kinking the hose or having it rub against something sharp.
Then you have to choose if you want to run it "before" the radiator,"after" the radiator, or "standalone".
I put mine after the radiator as per JLEMONDS hose routing directions.
Some people will say that it needs to be "before" the radiator. But for where I live I think its better to be "in series" after the radiator.

I chose to run the top "input" hose towards the left side of the engine compartment and into the output of the radiator.
I ran the bottom "output" hose to the right of the engine compartment and straight into the transmission return line.
(showing how the hose is routed behind the bumper cover.)
Image

Input hose
Image

Output hose
Image

While securing the hoses, I decided to use some foam pipe insulation on places where I would tie strap the hose or places that may rub against the hose.
Image

The aux cooler input hose goes here. Output of the radiator.
First you have to remove the shield in the bottom of the truck, four 14mm bolts, loosen the two closest to the front and completely remove the two towards the rear.
Use your pliers to remove the spring hose clamps. Twist and pull the hose off the radiator output line fitting with your hands.
Use your oil pan to catch any ATF, my fluid was still new and red.

Remove this shield
Image

(bottom of the radiator)
Image
The aux cooler output hose goes on the same line, but on the side that connects straight to the tansmission.
Theres no need to touch the line to the far left, unless you were installing the cooler "before" the radiator.
If your going to install it before, then simply replace the far left hose and dont touch the hose in the middle.
In my case since the far left hose "input" for the radiator was shot, I replaced it with new hose.
Image
Red = From transmission aux cooler "output", then straight into transmission return line.
Yellow = From radiator cooler/warmer, then straight into aux cooler "input".
Green = From transmission output, then straight into the radiator cooler/warmer.

Before you put the hoses on the fittings, make sure you have the new hose clamps on the hose.
Also make sure you lube up the fittings so that the hose can slide right on.
Once the hose is on the fittings, screw the hose clamps on make sure not to overtighten it.

Time to top off the transmission fluid and check for leaks!
I wasnt able to get pictures of the proceedure, due to bathing in ATF.

Start the truck up. Run the shifter through all the gears. You need to wait about 3 minutes for the fluid to warm up properly so you can check the level.
While waiting for 3 minutes, I checked all the hoses for leaks, none were found.
You should have your drain pan, 19mm socket, ATF and pump nearby.
After 3 minutes(truck still running), remove the transmission pan 19mm "fill plug", be careful the exhaust is hot.
Prepare to shower in ATF.. start pumping fluid in the fill hole until it starts pouring back out.
Each time I pumped I think I got more fluid on the ground then in the trans, until I got the pumps hose seated in a better position.
It took about 2 quarts until the fluid started rushing out...just wait for it to start dribbling out.
Once it does put the fill plug back on and torque it to specs.
I installed a new copper sealing washer on the fill plug while I was down there.
Check your hoses for leaks...if none are found then congratulations you just installed your cooler succesfully.

Turn the truck off, and lets get that grille back on.
The easyest way to put it back on is to remove the clips from the vehicle completely.
Image

Once you have the clips in your hand, just push it back into the grille one by one.
Image
Snap the grille back in place, it was that easy. Dont forget the phillips screw.

Put the shield back on the bottom of the truck and your done.
Image

Since I had ATF all over the floor I flushed it all out, and since I had the hose out I gave the truck a nice washing :D
Image

Image

I made sure to make the hose clamps face a position where I can easily tighten them if needed.

I hope this helps someone!
Last edited by Dae on Mon Nov 24, 2008 7:49 pm, edited 1 time in total.
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Postby Ramblin Fever » Mon Nov 24, 2008 9:25 am

Wow....nice job.

I like. Did you have to connect any hoses to the transmission pan itself, or just the bottom of the radiator?

There's a 2nd hose off the cooler that I don't see where you attached it to. Perhaps I missed it, I'll go back through it.

All you need now is to get some heavy duty screen material and create a safety screen net in front of your radiator, behind the grill. This will protect your coolers, including radiator from debris off the road, rocks, etc.
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Postby Ramblin Fever » Mon Nov 24, 2008 9:27 am

What dictates the difference of installing before or after the radiator?

I understand you did yours AFTER the radiator?
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Postby kperras » Mon Nov 24, 2008 1:48 pm

The radiator acts as both a cooler and a warmer for the transmission oil. First, when the radiator water heats up, it warms the trans oil to achieve operating temp faster. Then when things start to get hotter, the rad begins cooling the trans oil to keep it in a good temperature range.

Installing the cooler first keeps the stock warming/cooling cycle in the first few minutes of operation and also helps to regulate how cool the return oil is.


Transmission oil that is too cool is just as bad as too hot.
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Postby isuzufool » Mon Nov 24, 2008 3:14 pm

That's true. Good job on the install BTW!!!!
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Postby Dae » Mon Nov 24, 2008 8:00 pm

Ramblin Fever wrote:There's a 2nd hose off the cooler that I don't see where you attached it to. Perhaps I missed it, I'll go back through it.


I thought I added that pic last night, anyways problem solved. Re-check the thread.

Ramblin Fever wrote:What dictates the difference of installing before or after the radiator?

I understand you did yours AFTER the radiator?


This is quoting from SuferJoe... who we all know has rebuilt many of these things.
SurferJoe wrote:
The truth be told:
[list]The trans MUST run at about 180ºF for it to work correctly.
It must NOT get over 280ºF for any length of time.
200ºF is a very good trans temp.


I did mine after the radiator since it never gets below 70 degrees around here, and its always humid.
Jerry said he's been running his this way for years and hasnt had any problems. And it gets alot colder in Georgia then here on Guam.

There are a lot of people that can go on and on about which way is the right way....
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Postby tOnKaTrAcKeR » Mon Nov 24, 2008 8:11 pm

Dae wrote:And it gets alot colder in Georgia then here on Guam.



Aint that the truth, i can't wait until i go back to Guam. I am already tired of the cold!!!!!!!!!!!!!
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Postby GDM98Rodeo » Mon Nov 24, 2008 11:22 pm

Nice! Great timing to as I was just planning this mod and was wondering which was in and which was out. This will help a bunch.

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Postby Gizmo42 » Tue Nov 25, 2008 4:47 am

I think Mike said he is running his after the radiator. Hasnt had any problem with it so far. I would run it before the rad here though since it does get really cold in winter some times.
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Postby Dae » Wed Nov 26, 2008 1:26 am

So far so good. It feels like the transmission is shifting much smoother. But that could just be in my mind.

After a decent drive...the input hose for the aux cooler is almost too hot to touch for more than a few seconds.
The output hose for the aux cooler was pretty warm but not too hot to touch.

The outside temperature today was about 85°F, but with the humidity it felt like around 94°F.
Im thinking about installing a temp gauge, so that I can have a better idea of whats going on.
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Postby da_dude » Wed Nov 26, 2008 1:51 am

Nice DIY written up. I'm looking into getting one for my rodeo in the near future too.
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Postby Dae » Tue Dec 02, 2008 11:33 pm

Thanks! Just helping out fellow Zu owners.
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Postby offrodeo69 » Thu Dec 04, 2008 5:22 pm

nice write up .Thanks for taking the time to write it up 8)

Where do you plan on taping into for the temp gauge? That is something i realy need seing how i beat my rodeo almost every weekend :twisted: :twisted: .


Thanks Marc....
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Postby Dae » Thu Dec 04, 2008 8:14 pm

offrodeo69 wrote:nice write up .Thanks for taking the time to write it up 8)

Where do you plan on taping into for the temp gauge? That is something i realy need seing how i beat my rodeo almost every weekend :twisted: :twisted: .


Thanks Marc....
Cheers


If I were to add a temp gauge, I would use a T fitting on the transmission fluid output hose.
That way I could see how hot/cold the fluid is right out of the transmission.
"My Isuzu has crossed the Pacific Ocean!... twice!!"

2001 Isuzu Rodeo LS :: 3.2L V6 Auto 4L30E >> clicky for pics <<
Kenwood KDC-X493 deck and speakers all around :: 10" Infinity sub, ported 300 watts RMS bridged
OME 913's :: Monroe Sensatracs + 2" Lift :: Firestone Destination All-Terrain LT245/75R16 + 1" extra
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Postby SurferJoe » Sun Dec 07, 2008 12:12 am

Put the temp sender unit in the pressure tap (line pressure test) to get a real heat value and that way you get to see what the trans has to work with!

This is a sample on a Ford Trans I did: Image

This way you can tell if the trans is getting hot, not when it's too late.

MOST transmissions have their pressure tap on the driver's side of the case, close to the front of the case and right behind the bellhousing.

In Australia/NZ and some UK-type places, the driver sits on the right (oops, I edited that after I noticed I had made it backwards) side of the vehicle as you are sitting in the front seat of the vehicle.
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Postby chikoroll » Sun Dec 07, 2008 8:49 am

sitting on the left side? that would be the passenger

driver sits on the right here in australia....
and we drive on the left side of the road
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Postby SurferJoe » Sun Dec 07, 2008 9:59 pm

Sorry...I edited it
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Postby WillyLin » Thu Apr 02, 2009 6:44 am

great write!! and nice job!!
I will definitely be putting one on my trooper!! I've found the B&M 70268 SuperCooler Automatic Transmission Cooler, which has the low pressure drop design will allow the cool oil just by pass the cooler.
is this one good?


summer is coming so ill have this done soon.
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Postby Dae » Thu Apr 02, 2009 11:08 pm

WillyLin wrote:I've found the B&M 70268 SuperCooler Automatic Transmission Cooler, is this one good?


Looks like a very good quality cooler. Im pretty sure B&M gives some high quality hoses with their kits.
But if its not, then I HIGHLY recommend you get some good hose.
The ones that came in my Hayden kit were junk.
"My Isuzu has crossed the Pacific Ocean!... twice!!"

2001 Isuzu Rodeo LS :: 3.2L V6 Auto 4L30E >> clicky for pics <<
Kenwood KDC-X493 deck and speakers all around :: 10" Infinity sub, ported 300 watts RMS bridged
OME 913's :: Monroe Sensatracs + 2" Lift :: Firestone Destination All-Terrain LT245/75R16 + 1" extra
Indy4x brake lines :: Poly swaybar bushings :: Flowmaster 50 Series SUV :: Detroit Truetrac helical LSD
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Postby WillyLin » Tue Apr 28, 2009 2:59 pm

Just placed the order and see.. I got it on amazon for only $40 shipped..ill see if the hose is a quality one when i receive it.
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Postby WillyLin » Thu Apr 30, 2009 2:40 pm

Image

Image
Got it, it even include two connectors. the hoes is the good quality one i believe.
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Postby Dae » Fri May 01, 2009 12:30 am

Looks good. Mine came with everything in that kit except for the fittings.
Mine came with more nuts and bolts. Hose looks fine to me.
The B&M kit looks like a good deal! Take some pics for us when your done!
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2001 Isuzu Rodeo LS :: 3.2L V6 Auto 4L30E >> clicky for pics <<
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OME 913's :: Monroe Sensatracs + 2" Lift :: Firestone Destination All-Terrain LT245/75R16 + 1" extra
Indy4x brake lines :: Poly swaybar bushings :: Flowmaster 50 Series SUV :: Detroit Truetrac helical LSD
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Postby WillyLin » Fri May 15, 2009 9:01 pm

Installed it on my 93 trooper today... total spent about 3 hours... hardest part was to hold the cooler in place... using the steel support plate from the box, and bent some of it... the hose is just enough length for me.

i though the transmission fluid would pour out a lot, but it didn't just had some of oil on my hands, that was it. I put the cooler before the Radiator, so I use the left hose. the radiator is probably the same as Dae's '01 Rodeo. looks the same.

pictures are coming..

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Postby Dae » Fri Jan 08, 2010 8:47 am

Its official, I'm moving to WA this Feb. I will be bringing the Rodeo with me. Should I re-route the tranny cooler and make it "before" the radiator, or keep it as is?
"My Isuzu has crossed the Pacific Ocean!... twice!!"

2001 Isuzu Rodeo LS :: 3.2L V6 Auto 4L30E >> clicky for pics <<
Kenwood KDC-X493 deck and speakers all around :: 10" Infinity sub, ported 300 watts RMS bridged
OME 913's :: Monroe Sensatracs + 2" Lift :: Firestone Destination All-Terrain LT245/75R16 + 1" extra
Indy4x brake lines :: Poly swaybar bushings :: Flowmaster 50 Series SUV :: Detroit Truetrac helical LSD
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Postby mtaliancich » Fri Jan 08, 2010 1:36 pm

Sorry, noob here, what do yall mean before or after the radiator? Also, was it very hard to install?
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