4L30e Transmission Shifting Problem - with Solution

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range sensor pdf still available???

Postby jwootang » Tue Aug 01, 2006 12:11 pm

Hello there,
I'm having similar shifting issues with my '02 Trooper with 78k miles. It seems that my problems are occuring mainly during Downshifting.

I've clicked on the link for the "How To" PDF file but it seems to be a dead link.

I would appreciate any assistance!!
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Postby jimmyc » Sun Aug 06, 2006 11:15 am

jwootang,

The link worked for me. Right click on it and choose Save-As. When I tried to view it in a browser it did not work, you might have the same problem. But save it to your hard drive and open in Acrobat.

Thanks to whoever first posted this, I just experienced this transmission problem this week and was pointed to this thread by someone on yahoogroups. This is invaluable information!! Thank you. :D
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thanks

Postby jwootang » Sun Aug 06, 2006 3:56 pm

Thanks! I finally got it to download. I had my local shop do the cleaning. So far, it seems our issue (hard downshift) lies somewhere besides the range sensor since the shifting issue reappeared 1 day after the trooper was serviced.

Any suggestions???
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Postby jimmyc » Tue Aug 08, 2006 9:14 pm

No sorry, I don't know much about auto repair...more about computers and how browsers work.

I tried this repair this past weekend and since the small screws holding the cover on where pretty rotted, they disintegrated/broke when I tried to unscrew them. So I just bought a new part ($150- St. Charles). So, I don't know if this is my problem or not yet. Will have to wait until the new part gets installed.

Good luck. :D
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Postby TrooperBlooper » Fri Dec 29, 2006 12:02 am

my parents have a 2001 trooper that ocasionally does the hard shift, but now it is starting to slip in 1st gear on warm up but after about 2 mins it goes away could this possibly be the range sensor or is this tranny on its last legs btw it has just under 100000kms
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Isuzu transmission sensor

Postby ssteiner53 » Wed Feb 28, 2007 4:22 pm

Does anyone have a good online source for parts for the Isuzu Rodeo? I have a 2002 Rodeo, and while I intend to clean the trans range sensor, I would like to know if it is available online in case it is beyond cleaning, or if I break it in the process. Also, need a brake light switch, O2 sensors (I know 2 are bad, just forget if they are before or after the cat), serpentine belt and tensioner. Once I get through all this, I'll probably tackle a timing belt/water pump replacement as PM since it has 68k on it.

TIA,
Steve
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Postby J-dawg » Wed Feb 28, 2007 5:23 pm

St. Charles Isuzu (ask for Merlin if your order is tricky):

http://isuzu.stcharlesauto.com/

Clifford Motors (ask for Dan):

http://www.cliffordmotors.com/index.php ... parts.home

Or you can search the forum and contact Jerry Lemond for hard-to-find parts or specialized knowledge.

As long as you don't use a hammer, you'll probably be fine with working on your range/mode switch. It's fairly low-tech and sturdy.

For normal service, Isuzu's spec for timing belts for your motor is 100k miles (assuming you have a V6 -- if you've got the 4 ignore this whole paragraph). You've still got >40% life on it so why replace it until it needs it? Your motor is a non-interference design, so there aren't catastrophic repercussions to a broken belt either. I'd suggest investing in replacement intake manifold gaskets as a better PM, and while you're in there give the inside of the intake manifold (especially the EGR pipe) a good scrubbing. Proper EGR flow will make your motor run better especially on the freeway, and you'll get better mileage.
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Postby ssteiner53 » Wed Feb 28, 2007 6:23 pm

Thanks J-Dawg. I DO have the V-6, you mean the stealership lied to me when he said it was due at 60k miles and would have catastrophic consequences if it broke?

Steve
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Postby J-dawg » Wed Feb 28, 2007 6:37 pm

I might look into a different service writer, if not a new service facility entirely. Your owner's manual should have a section on Isuzu's recommended service intervals. For your vehicle, the standard recommendation is 100k miles, and for "severe service" (lots of idling like a taxi, or significant towing duty, etc) it's 75k miles. If it's not listed in your manual this way, you can consult Isuzu Service Bulletin number SB99-01-S002.

Also don't bother replacing O2 sensors after that cats unless you have money to burn. The sensors before the cats have a much more significant impact on performance, emissions, and mileage.
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Hard shifting in 2cd 3rd and down shift

Postby troopythetrooper » Sat Aug 25, 2007 2:20 am

I had this same problem tonight. I was driving around in Low and it shifted fine. As soon as I put it back in drive it shifted like a drag car. I thought for sure the trans was a gonner. I will be cleaning it and posting the results. Thanks for all the input!!
98 isuzu trooper S NON-TOD 3 inch lift, pro comp es-9000 shocks<JUNK, Expedition duty OME springs. Bridgestone REVOs 285-70-16. Hooker Max Flo muffler Super winch Hubs and ARB bull bar! Crager 15-8-15 wheels with 33/12.5/15 Mickey Thompson MTZ. Soon Air Snorkel and Various indy4x suspension components.
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Postby eggman » Sat Feb 16, 2008 12:37 am

SeafordTrooper wrote:FYI, the 4L30E is actually a very universal transmissions used on all kinds of vehicles. Even Beamers!!


Beamers used the Isuzu transmission? On what models?
96 Rodeo w/V6 Auto....stock...for now
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Postby Lakeshow24 » Wed Feb 27, 2008 5:06 am

eggman wrote:
SeafordTrooper wrote:FYI, the 4L30E is actually a very universal transmissions used on all kinds of vehicles. Even Beamers!!


Beamers used the Isuzu transmission? On what models?


Chiggy check check it out: 8)

http://www.google.com/search?source=ig& ... gle+Search
I'm too slick for you!

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Where do I start?

Postby b-dub » Sun Mar 02, 2008 2:25 pm

First off, this web site has been a great help on all my Trooper repairs.Thanks alot. Now my '97 trooper was having a hard time shifting gears and now it won't shift out of 2nd at all. should I try cleaning the shift selector everyone was talking about or do my problems sound bigger than that? Thanks again
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Mose/Range Sensor

Postby Samanyanga » Sun Jun 08, 2008 7:31 pm

I took out the Range Sensor and cleaned it out and re-installed it. Now, my truck only shifts from Park to reverse and won't go any firther. As Troymessina has stated already, all gears shift fine from under the truck but not when I engage the cable.

Has anyone else experienced this? How did you resolve it? Please help, am looking a trasmission mechanic shop time in the near future if I cannot get this done on my own.

Thanks.
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tranny problems

Postby b-dub » Mon Jun 09, 2008 11:46 am

What up all in Isuzu land? Well my shift selector didn't seem to be bad but I still destoried my whole tranny anyway. $2,300 for repairs, damb that hurt. My best advice is not to lollygag around if you think something is not right. I probably could have saved some major change if I had gotten the tranny looked at when I first noticed the problem. I hate to say it but, the money I spent comparred to the time it would have taken for me to fix it in my driveway was probbably worth it and I got a warranty. B-Dub
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Thanks for the range sensor tip

Postby jake971 » Tue Aug 24, 2010 8:19 pm

This site has been great for my little DIY projects; I've been a long time reader ever since I got my '99 Passport V6 4x2 six years ago.

I've been having intermittent hard shifting for quite awhile and just recently noticed my PRND32L blinking the incorrect gear when shifting a few weeks ago.

Took off the range sensor, cleaned it up(was like taffy inside), applied some fresh dielectric grease and I haven't had a hard shifting experience for about two weeks now. Tranny seems more responsive too, thanks a lot.
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Postby ZuminaZX » Wed Sep 01, 2010 10:30 am

Very interesting. I encountered the same problems this morning (shifting too soon to 2 and 4). However I've found that when I put the trans in L it will still shift to 2nd and putting the trans into power drive seems to fix these problems. Could this be solenoid issues instead? I'll clean the selector today and report back.
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Postby tractng » Mon Sep 27, 2010 11:52 pm

Bump!!

I have the same symptom. I recently bought a 1999 honda passport AT LX (made by ISUZU). After about 200 miles, I had my transmission flushed.

After that, I would get a rough jolt around 25-28 mph (going or stopping).

At first, I thought the shop uses the wrong tranmission fluid (Honda Z1). I requested that they put dexron 3. Still, I have the same issue.

I plan to clean the sensor this week. I hope I didn't buy a lemon as I already had the timing belt, serpentine belt, water pump and tensioner replaced.

The car has 105k miles.

From the look of the DIY regarding the cleaning the range sensor, is the sensor located outside of the transmission (its not inside of it)?
Thanks for sharing.

tony
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Postby petdog » Thu Oct 21, 2010 6:08 pm

Same issue:

Never a bump until Monday. Started shuttering on highway, road with mild grade hills going up slope only. switched to power drive (Conerned about fuel delivery issue), TOD off/on (winter side drive switch has been out for a while). Checked truck with great worry, no visible issues. problem improved and then stopped. Removed winter/power switch (winter does not work because it was flooded with soda a couple of years ago.) Truck appears to remain in normal mode without switch installed. Made it home and ran in 4 low around neighborhood, shifts through gears. Took it 4 blocks to store later, put it in D and it moved then failed. restarted it again and it went for about a block then nothing. (R/D/3 and so on) restarted it 3 or 4 times and made it back. There is a obvious leak around selector seal, unit is very moist with fluid. Seems scary all went bad so quickly, am going out to check both items. I have one oil change place I trust, but I am not sure they have been checking the fluid, even though I asked them a couple of changes ago. 85k miles, runs well. No major 4x4 recently.

concerned.... A rebuilt is 1k and alot of work.

Can not find the mode/range selector on ebay etc.

No MIL lights on dash at all! :shock:
No generic trans codes.

Cheers.
2002 Trooper TOD
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Postby petdog » Fri Oct 22, 2010 4:46 pm

Removed and disassembled unit. Pretty rough, reminds me of a intermittent multi-contact switch on a clothes dryer I had that drove me crazy.
I generally would just replace it, but this is certainly worth trying.
This is big money.

Went through shop manual. Understand more how all of this works.
I do not have a good scan tool right now, The Genesis scanners we had at school did not jive well with my trooper even though the software indicated so. I bet I can get some help if I can get it moving. A/T class next semester.

Here is something that might help:
Isuzu calls it a mode switch, Autozone calls it a neutral safety switch.
Duralast JA4264
$104.99 special order.
I have had good luck with them, parts to the store in 2-3 days here.
2002 Trooper TOD
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Postby mracer » Sun Oct 24, 2010 7:55 pm

Any update on this? I'm having similar issues.
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Postby petdog » Sun Oct 24, 2010 11:24 pm

Well, not so good.

I will try to make it simple, good luck!

I took the mode switch out and rebuilt it (the DIY write up is pretty much right on) You can remove the connector from the metal plate, it is a 2 piece unit that slides off of a plastic back. These become brittle break easily, just do not break the lock on the main wire harness with the water seal. I took a bunch of tools out there and found I just needed a 1/4 ratchet with a short/long 10mm socket for the 2 switch bolts, 14mm wrench and pliers for the shift linkage section, and a pair of cutters for the tie wrap, screwdriver for connector locks.

The DIY picture says it all. Crusty, funky and old. cleaned with electronics cleaner and a shop rag. Careful with the fingers that slide on the silver PCB traces. Cleaned, lubricated, nicely reassembled and reinstalled.
There is a small vacuum hose with what appears to be a breather end.
I replaced the 2" section of hose because it was split.

I had a bad feeling when I took it apart because it is very simple. Going from full throttle down to barely moves within 40 miles would make more sense if something was clearly broken inside of it, the contacts were more worn etc. Or if the shifter linkage was sloppy or the adjuster bolt came loose, etc. All solid. ( No A/T fluid in unit from leak)

There is a diagram in the shop manual, it is possible that a wire broke off one of the switch pcb board contacts, you can check the connections with a ohmmeter.

The fluid is not perfect, but it was not way low or burned up. The pan gasket has been seeping but does not stain the driveway. I think it is a pressure issue. There is a small slope on my street, I drove up on it a few times just with enough throttle to keep it steady. Will start to idle up then roll back. (in reverse too) Turn it off for a minuite and it will go for a short time again. :(

There are no MIL or TRANS lights and my basic scan tool tells me nothing. I think I am going to have to call for a tow and get bent over a barrel. I need a lift and a good scan tool. It is just beyond what I can do here when I need the darn thing. No A/T diagnosing experience. Bummer.

I will put down my box of tissues and hand the keys over for now.

Grrrrr......

Anyone else have a last ditch idea???
2002 Trooper TOD
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Postby petdog » Mon Oct 25, 2010 12:30 am

Forgot to mention, there certainly is a component of truth to this fix.

I have fought with quite a few military electronic test sets, HP analog oscilloscopes etc.

The grease will turn hard over time and heat makes it worse. the main switch contacts will either slide over bad grease or get raised up by dry crusty crud lumps and loose contact with the circuit board mating sections. Intermittent connections, makes sense.
It is certainly not in the manual.

Hoping for bad solenoid etc.

Later!
2002 Trooper TOD
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Postby jhammons01 » Fri Nov 26, 2010 12:22 pm

PetDog,

Did you say that you bought the new part?? OR are you saying that you priced it a Autozone??

This thread is great and should be kept alive

My symptoms??
The bump from 2nd to 3rd or from 3rd to 2nd (Downshift)
No back up lights
No indicator in the cluster...the lights are just dark
No Blinkers (not sure how this is related, they just quit when the symptoms started)
And all of it is intermittent. Seems to come and go as the weather changes (sure sign of an electrical problem)
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Postby jhammons01 » Fri Nov 26, 2010 12:29 pm

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