Torsion Bar HowTo

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Re: Torsion Bar HowTo

Postby Sandhog » Sat Feb 04, 2012 9:45 pm

When finances allow I plan on building my own design front and rear bumper and rock sliders. I will be using brushed stainless, light gauge and gusseted for strength. I will utilize the Tig welding process. I will format the front bumper to accept a winch and know that I'll have to upgrade with HD torsion bars. Question: Do the HD torsion bars attach using the stock application at the torsion bar ends? I don't see anything in the upgrade kits that resemble the contact points on the (stock) vehicle application.

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Re: Torsion Bar HowTo

Postby slx4now » Tue Oct 23, 2012 4:23 pm

If I lifted it 2 inches worth, would it cause me difficulties off road? Would there be less flex?
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Re: Torsion Bar HowTo

Postby jmsmilin » Sun Mar 17, 2013 6:30 pm

Tad wrote:To lift the front of your IFS (independent Front Suspension) Isuzu, you will be "Cranking up" your torsion bars. Joe wrote a short set of instructions to get you on the right track. Please take a look at them.

My general rule of thumb is that 4 turns = 1 inch. This does vary. Be sure to measure as you go to ensure that the result is a level truck. Also, after lifting the truck, you will need an alignment.

The writeup is at:
http://www.planetisuzoo.com/articles.ht ... Adjustment

-Tad

Great write up, what is the impact on the shocks? Does it stretch them, or in my case (wanting to lower) would it compress them more? Here is the issue I have. Bought these shorter lowering shocks but they are too short by an inch or so, Im wondering if when I crank down my torsions to lower the truck if it will fix this issue and the shock will sit were it needs to.
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Re: Torsion Bar HowTo

Postby Tad » Sun Mar 17, 2013 8:03 pm

It may make the shock reach the top mount, but you still won't have enough travel in that shock. I'd spring for a set that fits. Changing the torsion bars doesn't change the range of motion of the suspension, just the position. You'll still want shocks that fit.

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Re: Torsion Bar HowTo

Postby jmsmilin » Sun Mar 17, 2013 8:42 pm

In that 2nd pic above of the shock (pass side) the truck is actually jacked up as Im working on it. But once its off the jack and settled down the shock will bolt on and closes up better than what you see, but still has some room - about 1/2 - 3/4 inch at most, left to go - just not as much as you see in pic 2 (which is an inch or more). Once its all done, (after I turn the torsions) it should go down even another 2 inches - at the most. I would think that will give me good travel. I do have the longer version of these shocks (Pro-comp toxic shocks), but really I feel they are too long and will end up too stiff. Anyway, if anything the travel on these would be a lack of "extending" vice compressing ie run over a pot hole maybe. Im not real sure. Maybe will have to put the longer ones on. It has been hard getting the right shocks for this. Its actually got drop spindles on it now which don't change the travel either as you mentioned, but just to tell you why it looks so low in that picture of the driver side - there is no shock on it in that pic either (driver side).

My torsion bars should push up into the truck correct? Thus pushing up on the shock and hopefully giving me much more travel than what you see here. You don't think 2 full inchs on top of what the pic shows would be a good/enough of an amount during decompressing or extending - which I don't know it will be doing much of - not off roading -perhaps in turns maybe? I believe these shocks only have a few inches of travel to begin with. I may be able to add in a small spacer under that bushing you see in the pic, a 1/4 perhaps just for some extra travel?
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Re: Torsion Bar HowTo

Postby comerz » Thu Mar 06, 2014 11:04 pm

Ok will somebody please post a picture of the bolt your supposed to turn when cranking the tbar? I looked under my passport and I can't seem to figure out what bolt it is. Is it on the side of the a arm?
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Re: Torsion Bar HowTo

Postby Apeiron » Thu Mar 06, 2014 11:14 pm

Last picture in the post above.
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Re: Torsion Bar HowTo

Postby justin123 » Wed Dec 09, 2015 2:06 pm

The instructions aren't available anymore. could someone re post? I am not familiar with suspension and front ends to much. If someone could post a pic of what and where to adjust that would be amazing :) If i were to lift one inch would that potentially tear a boot or will I be fine? would that also make it ride alot more stiff?
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Re: Torsion Bar HowTo

Postby totten » Sun Dec 20, 2015 10:37 pm

pm sent,
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Re: Torsion Bar HowTo

Postby PPCLI-JIM » Sun Jan 24, 2016 11:36 am

Isuzu Torsion Bar Adjustment
Date: 2004, Jun 13
Author: Joe Berry

This article is to help those that are unfamiliar with IFS (Independent front suspension) style trucks raise the front end of their ZU.
The tools needed:
• ½” ratchet or ½” breaker bar or a ½” impact wrench
• ½” drive 27mm socket (1-1/16” works too)
• Cheater bar (piece of pipe to slip over the handle)
• Jack stands
• Floor jack
• Penetrating oil
• Measuring tape
Before you try to do this, spray the threads of your adjuster bolts several times. If they are very dirty hit them with a wire brush then oil them. These can be tough on older rigs like my 88 Trooper was.
Lift the front of the truck a bit with the floor jack, not necessarily off of the ground but enough to relax the torsion bars. Put the jack stands under the frame. Never work under any vehicle with only a jack, always use jack stands.
Next to find your adjuster bolts, look at the lower a-arm and you will see a bar coming out of the back of the a-arm (about an inch in diameter - see pic below) called a torsion bar (this is your front spring) follow it back to the cross member where there is a large bolt head on the underside of the cross member. This is your adjuster bolt for your torsion bar:

see image 1
Here is the torsion bar where it comes out the back of the lower a-arm:

see image 2
Here is the other end of the torsion bar where it goes into the adjuster:

see image 3
To lift turn it clockwise, to lower turn counter clockwise. You may need to use a length of pipe to add some leverage. These things can be a bear if you are working on an older rig. My 88 Trooper drivers side adjuster was frozen solid. I broke a ½” Craftsman ratchet like it was nothing. I ended up using a ¾” breaker bar and about a 4’ piece of pipe. A rule of thumb is 4 complete turns is an inch of lift. This will vary from truck to truck depending upon the condition of your torsion bars. I used the impact wrench method (once mine broke loose) so I didn’t do much counting of turns.
Drive around some bumpy areas to let the springs settle in a bit then re-measure. Adjust as necessary. Drive for a few days and measure again. Adjust if necessary. Go get an alignment. Your tires will probably look like \--/ This can and needs to be fixed at the alignment shop.
This should be all anyone should need to adjust your own torsion bars. There are some cases where you may run out of threads to adjust, you will in these cases need to “re-index” your torsion bar(s). This isn’t typically necessary. To re-index you have to take your t-bar adjuster completely loose and take the t-bar out of where it attaches and rotate one end to pre-load it. Then adjust it as necessary.
I hope this helps some people become more familiar with their trucks and gets them into their driveway or garage instead of a 4x4 shop.
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Re: Torsion Bar HowTo

Postby marktheshark » Mon Mar 07, 2016 6:41 pm

Hello, I had a question on adjusting my passenger side torsion bar. It seems I maxed it out and the other side still has a ways to go. Is it possible for a torsion bar to get worn out and need to be replaced? Is there a point where the bolt is maxed out and wont turn anymore?
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Re: Torsion Bar HowTo

Postby Naththig5327 » Wed Jul 27, 2016 11:58 pm

Now I'm not an expert and I barely know what I'm doing lol but u will have to reindex the maxed out bar and yes there is a point where it won't turn its when the bolt runs out of threads all you are doing is tighting or losing the bolt which in turn adds or loosens tension on the bar and if the bolt dosent move any more u need to take it out of the anchor and readjust to where u can tighten it more to get more tension now I may be wrong on all of this but I think I'm right yeah I suppose it is possible they wear out they are a spring but in bar form they basically replace a coil spring correct me if I'm wrong here
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Re: Torsion Bar HowTo

Postby nasty610 » Thu Jul 28, 2016 8:50 pm

Think you have the single longest run on sentence on this forum. In answer to your question yes the torsions wear out over time. The adjuster is used to compensate for that.
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Re: Torsion Bar HowTo

Postby Naththig5327 » Thu Jul 28, 2016 9:17 pm

nasty610 wrote:Think you have the single longest run on sentence on this forum. In answer to your question yes the torsions wear out over time. The adjuster is used to compensate for that.

Bro it's summer grammar goes out the window till school starts again in August lol
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Re: Torsion Bar HowTo

Postby JoeIsuzu » Thu Aug 11, 2016 9:36 am

Naththig5327 wrote:
nasty610 wrote:Think you have the single longest run on sentence on this forum. In answer to your question yes the torsions wear out over time. The adjuster is used to compensate for that.

Bro it's summer grammar goes out the window till school starts again in August lol

Nobody here is grading your grammar, but for cryin' out loud...

How hard can it possibly be to just put periods after whatever you think are complete sentences? Trying to read this is too much work. lol back at you.

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