95 Trooper Repair and Improvements

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Re: 95 Trooper Repair and Improvements

Postby Hack » Sun Sep 11, 2016 10:25 pm

nasty610 wrote:Have you ever checked the codes?

The 1995 is an odd ball. It is pre ODCII. There is a hatch to the right of the steering wheel with 3 plugs in it. One is for the ABS and requires jumping 2 pins to get the ABS codes to flash. One of the others is for the engine but you can't hook up a standard code reader. Don't know if there is a way to jumper it to get the codes.
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Daily Driver: 1995 Trooper Limited, Auto, 3.2L DOHC, Rear LSD, HD Torsion Bars, Moog Cc812s, Cooper Discoverer A/T3 245/70-16
Trail Truck: 2001 Amigo, Auto, 3.2L, Rear LSD, Front Aussie Locker, DOR Drop Dif, HD Torsion Bars, OME 912s, BFG M/T KA2 33x10.5R15
RIP: 1988 Troop 2.6L 5spd. Burnt valve(s). Damaged frame. Parted out. Sent to crusher.
RIP: 1998 4WD Rodeo, Auto, 3.2L -- Ruined by Daughter #1 with Russian assistance. Parted out. Sent to crusher.
RIP: 1989 Troop 2.6L 5spd --- Stripped of all good parts. Body and rotted frame sent to the crusher.
RIP: 1999 2WD Amigo, Auto, 3.2L -- Engine blown and body damaged by Daughter #2. Parted out. Sent to crusher.

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Re: 95 Trooper Repair and Improvements

Postby SupATro.0pA » Mon Sep 12, 2016 2:08 pm

nasty610 wrote:Have you ever checked the codes? You've said several times that the CEL is coming on telling you there's a problem but I haven't seen any codes listed. Seems more a little silly if you're just throwing parts at it hoping something gets fixed. As for your fan clutch just spin the fan by hand with the engine off. If it free spins then it's bad. If it starts to tighten up then it's good. No need to shove anything in it while the engine is running.


Excellent advice. I have not yet checked the codes. I will do so today.

I've come to the conclusion that this project has become a light restoration, so I don't mind adding new pieces here and there as needed to get it running strong.
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Re: 95 Trooper Repair and Improvements

Postby SupATro.0pA » Mon Sep 12, 2016 3:48 pm

I'm getting two codes: 21 and 44.

According to this website, http://www.troublecodes.net/isuzu/rodeo-3-2l-stylus-1-61-8l-trooper-3-2l-1991-1995/:
21 = Throttle position (TP) sensor – signal voltage
44 = Heated oxygen sensor (H02S)/oxygen -sensor (02S) – signal – mixture lean

I tested the TPS, and although the results says it's fine, maybe a new one instead of a salvage yard one will do the trick.

We'll see what a fresh fuel filter does for the fuel mixture.
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Re: 95 Trooper Repair and Improvements

Postby asghilo » Mon Sep 12, 2016 11:56 pm

SupATro.0pA wrote:I'm getting two codes: 21 and 44.

According to this website, http://www.troublecodes.net/isuzu/rodeo-3-2l-stylus-1-61-8l-trooper-3-2l-1991-1995/:
21 = Throttle position (TP) sensor – signal voltage
44 = Heated oxygen sensor (H02S)/oxygen -sensor (02S) – signal – mixture lean

I tested the TPS, and although the results says it's fine, maybe a new one instead of a salvage yard one will do the trick.

We'll see what a fresh fuel filter does for the fuel mixture.

a fuel filter won't do anything for your fuel mixture, your O2 sensor is responsible for that, and since it's tripping the code change that out.
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Re: 95 Trooper Repair and Improvements

Postby BigSwede » Tue Sep 13, 2016 12:51 am

IIRC you will always get a 21 with the key off. So I would look at the other one first.
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Re: 95 Trooper Repair and Improvements

Postby SupATro.0pA » Tue Sep 13, 2016 5:29 pm

asghilo wrote:
SupATro.0pA wrote:I'm getting two codes: 21 and 44.

According to this website, http://www.troublecodes.net/isuzu/rodeo-3-2l-stylus-1-61-8l-trooper-3-2l-1991-1995/:
21 = Throttle position (TP) sensor – signal voltage
44 = Heated oxygen sensor (H02S)/oxygen -sensor (02S) – signal – mixture lean

I tested the TPS, and although the results says it's fine, maybe a new one instead of a salvage yard one will do the trick.

We'll see what a fresh fuel filter does for the fuel mixture.

a fuel filter won't do anything for your fuel mixture, your O2 sensor is responsible for that, and since it's tripping the code change that out.


You were dead on the money. :D

I was poking around and found this on the forums http://www.planetisuzoo.com/viewtopic.php?f=4&t=67027 Disconnected my O2 sensor, and it's like I actually have a functional vehicle. It still wants to stall when I throw it into neutral when approaching a stop sign, but I've got my loss of power issue figured out. Off to buy a O2 sensor.
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Re: 95 Trooper Repair and Improvements

Postby nasty610 » Wed Sep 14, 2016 9:23 pm

By disconnecting your o2 sensor you basically forced the computer into the wide open throttle map. When using that map it ignores the o2 and a couple other sensors. Basically it runs rich to get maximum power. That would cause the engine to run correctly if you're getting a lean code. You may want to actually figure out why you have a lean code. It's extremely rare that an o2 code means you have bad sensor.
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Re: 95 Trooper Repair and Improvements

Postby SupATro.0pA » Thu Sep 15, 2016 12:24 pm

nasty610 wrote:By disconnecting your o2 sensor you basically forced the computer into the wide open throttle map. When using that map it ignores the o2 and a couple other sensors. Basically it runs rich to get maximum power. That would cause the engine to run correctly if you're getting a lean code. You may want to actually figure out why you have a lean code. It's extremely rare that an o2 code means you have bad sensor.


nasty610, in your experience, what have you seen as the most common cause of a lean code?
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Re: 95 Trooper Repair and Improvements

Postby nasty610 » Thu Sep 15, 2016 9:34 pm

Usually a vacuum leak somewhere. If you can smoke the engine through the intake pipe. I use a machine at work to do it so you may need to get creative. Check YouTube, I'm sure someone has come up with a good way to do it without a dedicated machine.
1996 Isuzu Trooper Base model
Front t-bar crank, Rear lifted with 1st gen Grand Cherokee Coils, Cooper Discovery AT3 265/75R16
1991 Trooper Base Model
HD Sway-a-Way torsion bars, Sweet Camo Paint(adds 50 hp), Snowflakes w/ Firestone Destination LE2 265/75r16
Lift Coil Spring Options
Add-a-Leaf kits and Part Numbers
Longer Shocks for your Lifted Isuzu

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Re: 95 Trooper Repair and Improvements

Postby SupATro.0pA » Fri Sep 16, 2016 12:12 am

hmmm. I replaced all but one vacuum line, but it may be worth looking into again. Thanks for the advice!
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Re: 95 Trooper Repair and Improvements

Postby nasty610 » Sat Sep 17, 2016 6:27 pm

There's more then just vacuum lines that can leak. That's why I suggested smoking the engine through the intake boot. Intake manifold gaskets are a common fail point on these engines.
1996 Isuzu Trooper Base model
Front t-bar crank, Rear lifted with 1st gen Grand Cherokee Coils, Cooper Discovery AT3 265/75R16
1991 Trooper Base Model
HD Sway-a-Way torsion bars, Sweet Camo Paint(adds 50 hp), Snowflakes w/ Firestone Destination LE2 265/75r16
Lift Coil Spring Options
Add-a-Leaf kits and Part Numbers
Longer Shocks for your Lifted Isuzu

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Re: 95 Trooper Repair and Improvements

Postby SupATro.0pA » Fri Nov 18, 2016 1:57 pm

It's been a while. Here's an update on this project:

  • New Radiator Installed, no more cold spots
  • New O2 Sensor + New Iridium Spark plugs resolved the power loss issue
  • New Water Pump and Timing Belt resolved water pump chirp
  • Removed the thermostat - boy does it hold cool now
  • New battery terminals solved an issue where I lost all electrical at a stop light (terrible/fun story)

The Trooper runs so much better. I didn't realize how anemic is was before. Just did a two hour round trip camping trip, and it ran like a champ...

Except that it had the heat up and sudden temp drop issue again at the end of the trip. There was no water vapor coming out of the pipe when I was running it just prior to the trip. I topped off the radiator, ran it again from cold, and for the first time, I'm seeing bubbles in the radiator. I ran a compression test a few months back, and had one showing low as well, but it held with a wet tests.

(One of my door locks broke as well preventing the door from unlocking, but this seems to be a known issue with a plastic clip breaking that I can resolve after dismembering the door)

SO...

I'm going to pull the heads shortly and see if there is any warping before I order my parts, but I'm considering just buying one of the kits that has new pistons, rings, gaskets, etc. for a rebuild. $300 and change doesn't seem too bad for a refreshed engine. I'm not sure I could find a good pick and pull engine for that much, because I'd still have to go back and check all of the same things out.

Is there anything squirrely that I should be watching out for in the rebuild? Any minor improvements that can be made on these 3.2s (that still let me pass CA smog)?
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Re: 95 Trooper Repair and Improvements

Postby SupATro.0pA » Fri Feb 17, 2017 1:37 pm

I did a block test and am tearing into the engine to look at the head gasket. Let's hope nothing is warped.

While I'm doing this, I noticed that my heater doesn't seem to work, and it looks like the line in has been cut. When I pulled off the intake manifold, I found the what looks like the bypass, where you connect a hose from the intake to the output spots on the engine. Could somebody confirm that this is what I'm looking at?

Image
95 Isuzu Trooper

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Re: 95 Trooper Repair and Improvements

Postby SupATro.0pA » Wed Mar 08, 2017 3:18 am

Welp, I've got the heads off now. There's lovely pools of coolant in three cylinders. Definitely going to change the head gaskets. I'm contemplating buying new pistons and bearings, but am not fully on board yet.

Here's some pictures.

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95 Isuzu Trooper

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Re: 95 Trooper Repair and Improvements

Postby SupATro.0pA » Fri Mar 17, 2017 1:37 pm

Some quick notes on removing the heads:

  • Tightening the bolts before loosening them seemed to work.
  • There were 8 10mm allen head bolts and 3 6mm allen head bolts on each head
  • My 3/8th drive 6mm allen head socket could not reach the top 6mm allen head bolt enough to get good torque. I had to use a normal allen key with a pair of vice grips.
  • The cams have a groove that lines up with the head bolts for use with sockets and extenders.
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