Twistedmetal wrote:I'm in the process of fj80 axles front and rear on my Rodeo Sport(Amigo)... Did you have to change out the master cylinder to accomodate the giant calipers? I've been trying to find bore sizes etc to compare...that's Not easily found....
I didn't change the brake booster, master cylinder or my brake lines. The braided lines i had fit the same threads of the yota calipers. Japanese match isuzu i guess.
My braking feels fine. I don't think the front calipers are that much larger than the original rodeo ones and IIRC the 44 calipers are single piston so not that much fluid goes back and forth. As for the rears, they aren't much larger than the rear rodeo's original calipers. I don't think I'm underbraked here if that makes sense, but If I'm not thinking of something, I'm all ears.
The drilled slotted vented rear rotors help with stopping I can tell but down hill coming back from the mountains, I think I need to get new front rotors. I know the pads are good but perhaps the rotors are a little thin. I started to notice a little shimmy and started engine braking plus pedal braking to keep from heating them up. I wasn't worried if you know what i mean. Helps to have a 5 speed to slow down when you need it. I am going to find some drill slotted vented front rotors when I go to replace these but the fronts will prolly cost me twice as much since its heavier and does like 65% of the stopping anyhow.
...How do you like the low range , is it low enough ?
Guess I don't know what your butt gears are (ratio wise) yeah I said butt !!
Low was waaaay better not that I got the 3:1 done.
I went out before 4.56 and 2:1 in the case and I could tell that i was spinning that much more before now.
I went 5.29/5.36 and the 3:1 is amazingly perfect for the torque i need. I can imagine wanting 4:1 out west due to the rocks but 3:1 is fine enough at an overall crawl ratio of 60.9:1 compared to roughly 37:1 before.
AustinT wrote:I am starting to do the budget for my link project and want to get your thoughts on how yours was done. I am mixed between 3 link and a radius. Have seen VXorado's recently and trying to compare.
Did the guy that did your work use a calculator?
Curious to your actual measurements. How long are the lower/upper links? How far in is your upper link axle bracket?
How do you like having the upper link opposite the pumpkin? Have read some mixed things here.
Do you get much dive or squat in the front?
Maybe he did use a calculator but he's done probably a 100 or more solid axle jobs over like ten years and link jobs and soa and sua jobs that he probably didn't need to draw it out.
Chris (marsfab) may be still following this thread, so I'll let him chime in. If he's following.
I can measure the links for you when I get back under the truck.
Right now I'm tearing apart the hub flange trying to get the broken studs out to replace them with heavy duty studs and I sent my front drive shaft off to get serviced!
The upper link bracket is tucked up in the inside frame rail next to the trans. I'll have to snap a pic and show ya.
As for the link not being mounted on the pumpkin, I'm not sure it makes a difference. someone with more experience can answer that one. Probably has to do with the fact we are LHD vehicles and the way the panhard bar works with the drag link and the 3rd link combined while cycling the suspension.
Dive or Squat? Watcha mean? If you mean when stopping, does it dip? Not really but the coils feel 'soft' but thats because they have a ton of travel. If you mean flex, like tucking a tire. Hell I get so much tire tuck that when turning on a cambered hill, I can't believe how high the tire has to be to be scraping my front bumper and fender. It only happens when I'm completely maxed - wish I could get a pic.
My rear leaves are soft now and was thinking about getting them rearched or repacked. The rear sits lower than it did two years ago.