My PNW Tank

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Postby psguardian » Sun Oct 24, 2010 12:24 am

Doc wrote:.....And you can make just about anything into a tank. I was thinking of using my front and rear bumpers.
Sounds like a good idea. Make sure you include cut off valves near the main block that isolate each bumper feed line (in case of rupture).

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Postby Skadic333 » Sun Oct 24, 2010 9:46 pm

jwood1016 wrote:
onetouch wrote:Pacific Northwest. :roll:

Jim


well i bet you dont know what the ASE is? (btw i just made that up)


Automotive service excellence... pshht certified. lol
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Postby imamonstertruck » Mon Oct 25, 2010 1:13 am

Doc wrote:Image
Plenty of gas left....light was not even on. That Acura was not super fast...but it was not a complete slouch either. The Jetta would have whooped on it by car....it has seen 160 on many occasions.

Yeah I am gonna look into the York idea...with a good tank...they provide enough air for most air tools. I imagine the only real challenge would be to find a way to mount it to the engine.

And you can make just about anything into a tank. I was thinking of using my front and rear bumpers.


my rear bumper is a tank... I have it plugged as of now, but when I figure on what to do about the on board air, it will be utilized. :D
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-91 Trooper, 3.4 V6, 5speed, 4.77 gears, 3:1 Revo T-Case Gears, HD tie rods, 3" body lift, 2" suspension lift, 1.5" diff drop, 33x10.5x15 BFG A/T,
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Previous Troopers and Build Thread->http://forum.planetisuzoo.com/viewtopic.php?f=15&t=63260

1988 ISUZU TROOPER WORKSHOP MANUAL



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Re: My PNW Tank

Postby Doc » Fri Oct 28, 2011 10:13 pm

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Well back from the dead. Been a while...as far as updates I have been so busy with everything else the trusty Isuzu spends alot of time parked. I got a Chevy Astro van and have been mobbing that around...weeee

http://youtu.be/dKqZ-CqfGFg
Me and some deer met and I been busy with the VW and some motorbike stuff



But now that I have my trusty trooper out it got me thinking about looking over everything and making sure everything is in working order..I kinda dont know what I am looking for but I need to get in there and made sure all is well. I think I am ready to lift it as well I wanna loft it a little I think..nothing big. I was gonna go with Independent's more inexpensive setups..since I need shocks anyways
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Re: My PNW Tank

Postby chuffer » Thu Nov 03, 2011 11:46 am

Like the trooper and the Jetta. I have a bone stock & cherry 1991 Carat on the east coast.

if you are still looking at putting a York pump in your Trooper for on-board air, there are some pics of mine in my signature link. The install is pretty straight forward, but unless you already have a lot of the needed stuff (hoses, pressure switch, relay, manifold, tank, compressor, etc.) it is cheaper just to buy a viair setup at Amazon. The one big advantage to the York is a lot higher duty cycle. As for load on the motor, sure there is some when the clutch is engaged, but not enough for the rpms to drop at idle....
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Re: My PNW Tank

Postby Metal88 » Fri Nov 04, 2011 11:50 am

Doc wrote:Image
Well back from the dead. Been a while...as far as updates I have been so busy with everything else the trusty Isuzu spends alot of time parked. I got a Chevy Astro van and have been mobbing that around...weeee

http://youtu.be/dKqZ-CqfGFg
Me and some deer met and I been busy with the VW and some motorbike stuff



But now that I have my trusty trooper out it got me thinking about looking over everything and making sure everything is in working order..I kinda dont know what I am looking for but I need to get in there and made sure all is well. I think I am ready to lift it as well I wanna loft it a little I think..nothing big. I was gonna go with Independent's more inexpensive setups..since I need shocks anyways

how did the astro van like going 105?
Sal
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Re: My PNW Tank

Postby Doc » Mon Nov 21, 2011 4:51 pm

It did just fine lol.

Well all the summer toys have been put away and the Isuzu is driving. I got some minor stuff to take care of on it..but does not look like anything serious

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=4Y8AuZgrjvw
quick pull in my VR
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Re: My PNW Tank

Postby Doc » Sat May 05, 2012 7:52 pm

http://youtu.be/JtYxVWQztfQ Sucks we cant embed vid links
Well it has been a while thought I would throw in a update.


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Been tinkering fixing little leaks. Lower oil pan had no gasket so I decided to start there. Looks like a might have another small one somewhere. I was pretty mad at my old mechanic when I got under there...the clutch slave was loose along with two transmission to engine bolts :evil:

I think I wanna add carpet to it and cut down on some of the noise too
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Re: My PNW Tank

Postby Doc » Thu Nov 17, 2016 6:22 pm

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I'm still alive...and so is this mule. My girl ended up crashing it...and I got it fixed. I dont drive it very often, but with winter soon upon us..that will change. The front end had some parts replace and I am currently on the hunt for another heater core. I been thinking I need to give this rig some love. For the price I paid for it, it deserves better. So I been looking at maybe getting some carpet in it and maybe a roof rack as well. I am gonna throw down on some offroad lighting. I been so busy with other cars, I have had 0 time and money for the Zoo

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One of the cars I been tinkering with
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Re: My PNW Tank

Postby Doc » Wed Mar 15, 2017 12:45 am

Finally updates. This beast is still alive. Sadly it went thorugh another used heater core... so I new one from JLEMOND .

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...and thats what gold look s like LOL.

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Extra parts?...no just my cat claiming his new ride...
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I found this behind the head. I paid a guy to put a clutch in..and I get the idea this was his doing. The bracket was not even connected to the transmission bolts. Soooo this is the coolant bypass hose, and i think a contributing factor to the prior heater cores going out. The coolant was probobly over pressurizing the heater core anytime it was on cold, since the heater coolant valve is what completes the circuit of coolant. It also explains why my coolant temp gauge has been acting odd ever since I got the clutch done. I feel it is safe to say this contributed to my prior heater cores going out. Frustrating....this guy was a mechanic at BMW. I get it all together and drove it for a while.

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A few weeks after I fixed the core..I noticed my clutch was grabbing funny. It always kinda has..but this time the pedal was mooshys The parts for the master and slave cylinder were cheap..so I just replaced them both. It still felt funny but drove alright.

One day I hopped in it and the clutch started slipping...bad. I limped it home and got it up in the air. and began tearing into it. I contacted my friend who put the clutch in and asked if he thought of anything that may have contributed the clutch going out in less that 13,000 miles...of course he had no ideas. I asked if everything was done correct and he insisted they were. Seen the coolant hose not correctly installed ..I had my suspicions. I tore into it and yeah...
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and then..
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First two of the bolts for the diff skid plate broke off. I had soaked everything with penetrating oil the night before. I was shocked when all but 2 cross member brace bolts broke off. The required torque for this is like 68 lbs....it took a impact gun to even get the 2 out. The bolts that did come out I assumed were cross threaded. But upon further inspection , I could see they were over torqued and even had red locktight on them. This is pretty outrageous. I also found a few missing bolts that hold the transmission to the block.

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I got the transmission off and first thing I notice..oil everywhere. The bell housing..the clutch...everything caked. The flywheel was cracked and obviously over heated. And all for what?...he didnt replace the rear main seal. Not only did this guy cause all sorts of issues like digesting heater cores and other problems..but he didnt even replace the rear main seal.


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The complete lack of craftsmanship here is beyond disgusting to me. I cannot understand how this guy was allowed to work on anything. I am cleaning everything and doing it right. My room mate located some inserts for the holes, cause we could not re tap all of them. I am looking into any gasket the transmission needs and getting a coat of some cheap chassis paint. But getting the transmission cleaned up real fast, already looking better..
Last edited by Doc on Sat Mar 18, 2017 4:40 pm, edited 1 time in total.
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Re: My PNW Tank

Postby Doc » Wed Mar 15, 2017 10:28 pm

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I noticed the holes n the crank for the flywheel go all the way through..is there anything i nee to know about those bolts? Any special sealant or anything?
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Re: My PNW Tank

Postby sirbryanclark » Thu Mar 23, 2017 1:09 am

Sounds like your mechanic really made a mess of things. Hope he's not still working at a local shop! Nothing worse than paying a "professional" to do a job you don't have time for, and then having to waste more of your time to clean up their mistakes.
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Re: My PNW Tank

Postby Doc » Fri Apr 07, 2017 2:28 am

Ok so some updates. I been waiting on parts or finishing other projects but ..its getting there. Decided to get some rust proofing paint for the chassis and other components. Please excuse the lack of detail to the paint, I was pressed for time and didnt get everything I wanted, painted. I do like the paint I used. I will post a pic when I get a chance. I replaced every gasket I could with FACTORY ones from JLEMOND...that guy knows whats up. As for the bolts..my room mate was able to drill most of them out..however a few required a special insert to resolve the issue. I will try and post some pictures of what was done when I get a moment.
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I also cleaned up a bit. Please excuse crude once over. I have been very busy with other things and simply did not have the time I would normally like to put into anything I work on. ANd it is my winter beater so...it is not going to be perfect.
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Here is when I discovered the oil pan was leaking. I had just installed the factory rear main seal, and you can see it leaking right in between. I began to disassemble the front and will have to get the front raised up enough from where it is .
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But for now it is midnight. I need a shower and a few bong hits. Tomorrow I have get the front end dropped to make room to get the oil pan off. I also have my kitchen taken apart. The problem with that, is I have no idea how to work on houses. Currently about to redo the counter tops..so gotta work that in too. Updates soon..
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Re: My PNW Tank

Postby Doc » Fri Apr 14, 2017 10:39 pm

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Whoever designed this had a messed up sense of humor. I wrestled with it for hours....room mate sat with it for 30 minutes.and had it off.


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Parts came in....someone is excited.


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SO I took some time to get it cleaned. Again, not to my my normal standards...but it should hold a seal. I still got to tidy up a few things but am gonna try and get the pan in tonight. Trying to make sure EVERYTHING is in order before I do it. I dont wanna go back in here anytime soon. Whoever as here last was very messy.. Took a few layers of RTV off.

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This is what I am gonna use the seal the pan.....strong stuff.

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Did the sides and where the rubber meets the edges of the pan. I saw the previous person applied RTV to both sides of the rubber seals..what I didn't do, cause they were leaking from the same areas. Didn't see anything int he manuals about applying it there. Should be ok.
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Re: My PNW Tank

Postby MarkB.NV » Mon Apr 17, 2017 2:11 am

Good work man, I'm waiting for a few things to move on with my project, so am enjoying the heck out of your work.

... on the other hand, have zero busted knuckles. :)
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Re: My PNW Tank

Postby hessmess » Mon Apr 17, 2017 9:10 am

I think you did a heck of a good job cleaning that stuff up!
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Re: My PNW Tank

Postby Doc » Tue Apr 18, 2017 4:17 am

Thanks..it has been some work. And I been busy with other things. Doesn't help I started with missing bolts.
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All sealed up.

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Looks lovely..almost a shame to have to cover it back up.

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Both the throw out and pilot bearings had a tremendous amount of play and noise coming out of the, I get the idea that neither of these were changed during the last clutch job either. Their condition says they have been in there a lot longer than when I had the work done

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I noticed the throw out fork boot was ripped...got a new one of those too. Got everything mounted in the transmission. I got the trans up there, but between the missing bolts and different lengths...I am gonna need to get a diagram on what bolt goes where..and replace what is missing.


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Contrary to popular belief, the transmission can be easily balanced and slipped in straight, no need for circus acts. It must be clocked correctly to prevent the starter stud from hanging it up. If it is not clocked before you push it on..the stuck will prevent the trans from turning or going on correctly.


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Sadly...I won ave time before I leave town....so it will have to sit until I get back. It will give m some time to sort a few things out.
1. Find a O ring for the dipstick tube
2. Find the correct location for the transmission to engine bolts.

SO hopefully when I get back in town in a few days..I can wrap this up. If anyone has any info on those two things, it would be super helpful.
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Re: My PNW Tank

Postby Doc » Sat Apr 29, 2017 1:31 am

Well...that was a adventure. I went out of town on the 18th to see my friend for his birthday...and was supposed to fly home on the 22nd. When I got there, he was super busy prepping his drift car for a event in Orlando. I stayed and helped where I could. When the day came for me to leave..he offered to take me with him to FL...so I said yeah. We worked day and night for many days until we headed out. It was a 20 some out drive with the truck and trailer. Sadly I got sick and ended up flying home on the 27th, and was quickly reminded I need to finish my truck. I did snap a few pics for you guys...here is a few of them
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But now that I am back, I can get back to work. The problem is since I Was missing bolts before I even took it apart, I am having a hard time getting all the bolts to the transmission and block, Identified. As a mater of fact, that is my only hang up. Anyone know a way to identify what goes where?
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Re: My PNW Tank

Postby Doc » Mon May 01, 2017 3:46 pm

LOL>..I am starting to realize , there is not much of a support or parts base to keep these things going much longer.

I got most the holes with the correct bolts. I went to the wrecking yard and found a similar model I could compare too. I cant seem to find the correct dipstick o ring to seal the tube either.

This poor thing has been down since early Feb...and still is not back on the road. Hopefully I can get this wrapped up, is turning into a liability.
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Re: My PNW Tank

Postby chuffer » Mon May 01, 2017 4:40 pm

I have been following along, but haven't been commenting much. Looks like you are putting some time into this rig. In the end, the fact is that it's an older vehicle from a manufacturer that doesn't support our market anymore. It isn't gonna be the easiest to find support for.

If you lost track of which bell-housing bolts go where, which I do everytime, btw, just use common sense: short enough so they don't bottom out, but long enough so that they have at least 1.5 x the diameter thread-in.

The o-ring on the dipstick is a royal pain in the butt to find. Did you try Jerry Lemond? I pestered my local NAPA for a while, but they couldn't find the right size. Actually, we found what we thought was the right size, but I just could not get the flange back in the hole with the o-ring mounted. In the end I think I just grabbed a dipstick that had a better looking o-ring and used it...

Carry on!
-Chris
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Re: My PNW Tank

Postby Doc » Mon May 01, 2017 5:28 pm

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Well I got the transmission in. Had to measure the depth of everything...think I got it all for the most part. I am currently held up on the shifter. I was trying to replace this upper dust cover but...it is just going to have to go back together ripped. At this point, the truck is costing me more than it is worth, as I cant work on anything that is paying me. Honestly had I know it was going to be like this, I would have sold it when it broke. I think once it is running, I am going to look into selling it and getting a jeep. It is just to much downtime to justify the ownership of it. Even the simple things quickly become far too complicated and time consuming. Too much time on the internet trying to find answers..or parts..and not enough time wrenching.
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Re: My PNW Tank

Postby Doc » Mon May 01, 2017 6:17 pm

So just use 30 weight in the transmission and transfer case? And 80 wight in the front and rear axles?
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Re: My PNW Tank

Postby chuffer » Mon May 01, 2017 7:13 pm

Doc wrote:So just use 30 weight in the transmission and transfer case? And 80 wight in the front and rear axles?


That sounds right. Motor oil in the TC and Tranny. Gear oil in the axles.
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Re: My PNW Tank

Postby Doc » Mon May 01, 2017 9:43 pm

Thank you much.

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My next step is the coolant bypass line. The line on the drivers side is missing the port to connect the hose too. I had someone send me a new hard line with the correct port...but looking at it..it seems I would have to take off the drivers motor mount and maybe the exhaust manifold just to do so. Beings its job is just to allow coolant to circulate when they heater is closed, I am going to look into just inserting a coolant T connector to allow it to do so instead. Replacing the hard line looks WAY more involved than many would have lead me to believe. And I need to get some fluids too.
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Re: My PNW Tank

Postby Doc » Tue May 02, 2017 5:14 pm

MarkB.NV wrote:Owners manual, Isuzu Trooper / Trooper II, 1989, pages 8-24, 8-25:

Section 9: Manual Transmission and Transfer Case
"Add lubricant, if needed, to fill to the level of the filler plug hole. Use
engine oil of the correct oil viscosity for these temperatures as
follows.

Areas where ambient temperatures are 32c (90F) or higher = SAE40

All other areas = SAE5W - 30SF"

(note: bolding emphasis provided in original text of owners guide, not mine)

I've been using Mobil-1 5w-30 without issue for the last 4 years. YMMV


Fluid quantities:
Manual 5 speed, 2.95 L (3.2 US Quarts) SAE5W-30
Transfer case, 1.45 L (1.6 US Quarts) SAE5W-30

Front Axle: 1.5 L (1.7 US Quarts) using SAE90 typically
Rear Axle: 1.8 L (2.0 US Quarts) using SAE90 typically

Fuel tank: 21.9 US Gallons

Cooling System: 8.0 L (2.11 US Gallons)

*** Update ***
Double checked the Haynes and it also calls for SAE5W-30 in manual transmission and xfer case.
Also checked my Chilton's - likewise says to use motor oil in the trans and xfer case.



Found that. Looks like it is the same for my 91
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