1990 Izusu Trooper 5MT - First Izusu

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Re: 1990 Izusu Trooper 5MT - First Izusu

Postby furiousbob » Wed Mar 08, 2017 4:02 am

Ok so I'm buddying up with my welder friend and we're going to see what the exhaust system looks like after I get tires/alignment this Friday.

Correct me if I'm wrong, but there's only 1 O2 sensor on these OBD1 cars. So far, it looks like I'm doing the dual inlet cat and muffler that Ed Mc. had mentioned. Even though I'm in California, my SMOG guy doesn't give two squirts about visual inspection.

My question is, do I need to convert to a heated 3-wire O2 sensor if I'm going to be relocating the primary 1-wire O2 sensor to the cat's inlet area? If I do need to convert to a 3-wire, is there a link for more info? I've searched the forum and I'm not finding too much info.

Outside of that, my buddy and I are going to go pipe shopping to see what we need. Looks like a couple of 90 elbows for the passenger's side (as per Ed Mc., thank you!) and a pretty straightforward pipe on the driver's side.

I'm thinking I'm going to tackle the exhaust first before I move on to the TBI upgrade. I'm already dropping about a grand on tires so I'm feeling considerably poorer. The HD tie rods didn't help either. :(
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Re: 1990 Izusu Trooper 5MT - First Izusu

Postby Ed Mc. » Wed Mar 08, 2017 4:41 am

You're lucky that you have a cool Smog Nazi! I don't know why they'd even care on a rig that's 27 years old, anyway!

That's CommieFornia for ya!!! :roll: :twisted:

I wouldn't get too wrapped around the axle on the heated O2 sensor, it's nice to have but like you said it'll already be better when it's screwed into the bung on the cat.

New single-wire, non-heated sensors are very cheap and you might just replace with one of those for the time being and plan on an upgrade, later. Or, another option, get a heated 3-wire sensor but just hook up the sensor & ground wires, and worry about the heater power later. Mine is running well in that condition, I still haven't hooked up the wire to power. Maybe when the weather gets nice, it snowed again today!

Up to you, the single-wire non-heated sensor will likely work just fine. Just remember to point the sensor bung on the cat upwards! Don't ask me how I know about that!!!! :cry:

You might look for a mandrel-bent 90 for the pssgr-side piping transition. The regular "bent" pipes are cheap, but they do tend to be a bit squashed due to the non-mandrel pipe bender. The mandrel-bent pipe will have a uniform diameter all-the-way and probably be easier to fit-up anyway. And flow better to boot.

On your loose steering, is it just free-play in the steering wheel? Because that should just be an adjustment on the steering box.

If it's wandering all over the road, following the crown, and darts badly to one side or the other on braking, more likely the ball joints are worn out. Either job is do-able at home and you may not even need special tools if the "smack ball joint with B.F.H. to loosen" technique works. Otherwise you could rent-for-free ball joint tools from Autozone.

Although, with only 123K on the odometer, the front end shouldn't be too worn. But check out the idler arm while you're at it, too. That's also a relatively easy job at home and they're not extremely expensive.

Also makes a good excuse to do the Big Brake mod at the same time, that's what I did with mine and I don't regret it.

You're gonna notice the loss of braking power with larger tires and you'll get that back by going with Gen II front rotors and calipers since the Gen II rotors are larger in diameter. Anyway, search "big brake" or "big brake mod" for plenty info on that..........ed
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Re: 1990 Izusu Trooper 5MT - First Izusu

Postby itsmehb » Wed Mar 08, 2017 8:08 am

You're gonna notice the loss of braking power with larger tires and you'll get that back by going with Gen II front rotors and calipers since the Gen II rotors are larger in diameter. Anyway, search "big brake" or "big brake mod" for plenty info on that..........ed

If you opt for the big brake upgrade you might keep this in mind. I'm pretty sure the Rodeo brakes are the same up grade as the Trooper brakes. (Gen. two) And I know that some junk yards charge more for truck parts than for car parts. I know pick and pull does this and case in point, Used Trooper rotors are double Rodeo rotors.

Examples: The first price is Truck or Trooper price, The second is car or Rodeo Price (I didn't post rotors, but you get the drift)
342-1A Bracket - Up To 4In Car $6.99 $0.00
545-1 Brake Abs Controller Car $67.99 $4.99
543 Brake Backing Plate Car $13.99 $0.99
536 Brake Caliper Car $19.99 $2.99
533-1 Brake Drum W/Hub Car $19.99 $1.99
533-1P Brake Drum W/Hub Pick-Up/Van $24.99 $1.99
533-2 Brake Drum W/O Hub Car $14.99 $1.99
533-2P Brake Drum W/O Hub Pick-Up/Van $19.99 $2.99
534-1 Brake Emergency Cable Car $16.19 $0.00
534-2 Brake Emergency Cbl+Ped/Hnd Car $21.59 $0.00
166-3 Brake Light(3Rd Hi Mount) Car $16.99 $0.00
534-3 Brake Line Or Hose Car $6.49 $0.00
541-2 Brake Master Cyl &Booster Car $39.99 $3.99
541-1 Brake Master Cylinder
1990 Amigo, 2.3 5 speed (sold)
1991 Pick up (long gone)
2000 Amigo, 2.2 5 speed(sold)
1985 Trooper 1.9 4 speed (sent back to KS)
1989 Trooper RS 2.6 5 spd. Red

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Re: 1990 Izusu Trooper 5MT - First Izusu

Postby furiousbob » Wed Mar 08, 2017 1:22 pm

Ed Mc. wrote:Up to you, the single-wire non-heated sensor will likely work just fine. Just remember to point the sensor bung on the cat upwards! Don't ask me how I know about that!!!! :cry:


So make sure the o2 sensor sits on TOP of the cat instead of on bottom. Makes sense. I can picture an O2 sensor getting ripped off by an inanimate road object.

Ed Mc. wrote:You might look for a mandrel-bent 90 for the pssgr-side piping transition. The regular "bent" pipes are cheap, but they do tend to be a bit squashed due to the non-mandrel pipe bender. The mandrel-bent pipe will have a uniform diameter all-the-way and probably be easier to fit-up anyway. And flow better to boot.


Yup! I've seen the regular bent pipes and they make me cringe. I was actually originally going to go with pie cuts BUT that's a helluva lot of work. Mandrel bends it is!

Ed Mc. wrote:On your loose steering, is it just free-play in the steering wheel? Because that should just be an adjustment on the steering box.


I think this is already remedied. The HD tie rods aren't only beefy as hell, they fixed my old sloppy tie rods. I just need an alignment now to reap the benefits.

Ed Mc. wrote:Also makes a good excuse to do the Big Brake mod at the same time, that's what I did with mine and I don't regret it.

You're gonna notice the loss of braking power with larger tires and you'll get that back by going with Gen II front rotors and calipers since the Gen II rotors are larger in diameter. Anyway, search "big brake" or "big brake mod" for plenty info on that..........ed


itsmehb wrote:If you opt for the big brake upgrade you might keep this in mind. I'm pretty sure the Rodeo brakes are the same up grade as the Trooper brakes. (Gen. two) And I know that some junk yards charge more for truck parts than for car parts. I know pick and pull does this and case in point, Used Trooper rotors are double Rodeo rotors.


So just to be sure, Gen II Rodeo brakes fit Gen I Rodeos and Gen II Trooper brakes will fit Gen I Trooper brakes BUT Gen II Rodeo brakes will not fit Gen I Trooper brakes? I'm going to run down to the local PYP this weekend if I spot any snowflakes lying around. Might as well pull the front brakes too. I'll need rotors, calipers AND the brackets, correct?
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Postby Ed Mc. » Wed Mar 08, 2017 5:04 pm

furiousbob wrote:So just to be sure, Gen II Rodeo brakes fit Gen I Rodeos and Gen II Trooper brakes will fit Gen I Trooper brakes BUT Gen II Rodeo brakes will not fit Gen I Trooper brakes? I'm going to run down to the local PYP this weekend if I spot any snowflakes lying around. Might as well pull the front brakes too. I'll need rotors, calipers AND the brackets, correct?


Gen II Rodeo front discs and calipers will fit your Gen I Troop. I always see a lot more dead Rodeos and Passports and Troopers in the Craigslist, so it stands to reason there's probably a lot more of 'em in the wrecking yard as well. So your chances of finding all the parts you need go up astronomically.

Pick and Pull has a pretty strange pricing structure on these parts between Troopers and Rodeos, might as well take advantage of it.

'92-up Troopers and '93-up Rodeos, and all Passports have the 280mm (~11") front rotors. The Gen I rotors are approx. 10.1" so that's quite difference in braking power.

I'd find the newest Rodeo or Passport that still has brake parts on it and collect every bit you think you might need. Be sure you get the backing plates off the Gen II rig as well, the Trooper 2.8 plates won't fit the larger rotors.

Since it looks like the brake disc with hub included is pretty cheap, that'd be the way to go. You'll save yourself a lot of work, as the brake rotors are bolted to the hubs and sometimes aren't the easiest things to separate. I bought new, slotted/drilled rotors and had to dismantle my hubs to swap out rotors. Also cleaned 'em up and painted at the same time. You definitely need a good air compressor and air impact wrench to get those bolts loose.
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Re: 1990 Izusu Trooper 5MT - First Izusu

Postby furiousbob » Wed Mar 15, 2017 2:27 pm

OK so I went and picked up some BF Goodrich KO2's in 31x10.5r15 and was initially concerned about fitting them on 15x6's but they seem to do ok:

Image

The Trooper got an alignment after installing HD tie rods and there is still slop/play. Better than before but still about 2" of play in the steering wheel. I adjusted the screw on top of the steering box and a smidge of play went away. I'm open to any ideas. Connecting arm? Idler arm? Pitman?

I did notice that the lower ball joints were torn at the seams on both sides so I ordered a couple new ones from RockAuto.

I'm also planning on getting 2" lift shackles for the rear and cranking up the front torsion bar while simultaneously replacing the leaf spring bushings. I'm hoping to stiffen up the ride a bit. Even though the shocks feel fine and aren't bouncing yet, the truck feels a bit "boaty".

I got a notification from Pick-a-Part that a 94 Isuzu was at the local yard with snowflakes (the car had arrived yesterday) so I ran down there this morning and BAM wheels are already gone. :(
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Re: 1990 Izusu Trooper 5MT - First Izusu

Postby wmorrisiii » Wed Mar 15, 2017 7:49 pm

Great responses, you guys have Bob on the path of righteousness :lol: Throttle body upgrade ,check,HD Indy tie rods, check, 2 1/4 exhaust, check....and a 135K 2.8...nice. If Geoff's website is back up, he will get to the Fiero valve cover mod soon enough, but being in Cali he will have to forgo the air pump delete...which is an okay trade off for no rust and the work that goes along with addressing that lovely issue. Ed even mentioned the difference flipping the lid makes. Bob is right, this site rocks, and it is our resident experts, as in all of the above posters, that keep it that way.
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Re: 1990 Izusu Trooper 5MT - First Izusu

Postby furiousbob » Wed Mar 15, 2017 7:56 pm

I've flipped the lid! And the butt dyno is showing drastically improved numbers. I'm still waiting to pull the trigger on the throttle body, though. I'm stuck between upgrading power, fixing my a/c or upgrading semi-worn-out suspension bushings.

And what is this Fiero valve cover mod? Link?
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Re: 1990 Izusu Trooper 5MT - First Izusu

Postby Ed Mc. » Wed Mar 15, 2017 8:27 pm

Gotta get those bushings fixed, you don't want More power stressing out the suspension!

Geoff had the Hot Scoop on the valve covers up grade on his defunct website, maybe he'll do a posting here.

Meanwhile, I'll tempt you with a pic of some real Purty valve covers I found on eBay ($131 shipped).

As I recall, there's a bit of adapting to do regarding oil caps, grommets, mounting hardware, etc. Not too complicated, though, and a nice dress-up for the engine. I put aftermarket chrome covers on mine and it wasn't the best choice for the damp PNW as you can imagine! I'm going back to black, stock covers when I get around to detailing the engine compt. I picked up a nice set of never-used "Goodwrench" replacement covers a while back for a price I couldn't refuse!

Found a few old valve cover threads here:

viewtopic.php?f=1&t=86841&p=767426&hilit=fiero+valve+covers#p767426

viewtopic.php?f=1&t=43235&p=343351&hilit=fiero+valve+covers#p343351

viewtopic.php?f=1&t=24622&p=172744&hilit=fiero+valve+covers#p172744

viewtopic.php?f=2&t=74107&p=652036&hilit=fiero+valve+covers#p652036

viewtopic.php?f=2&t=58958&p=504480&hilit=fiero+valve+covers#p504480

viewtopic.php?f=2&t=52704&p=444359&hilit=fiero+valve+covers#p444359

Anywho, that should keep you busy for a while! Enjoy the pic.........ed
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Re: 1990 Izusu Trooper 5MT - First Izusu

Postby wmorrisiii » Wed Mar 15, 2017 9:15 pm

There they are, pretty ones too, you get the grommets and oil cap from the Fiero store online, the valve covers mount with the oil fill on the left side and the PVC valve on the right side. Opposite sides from the factory set up.The OEM valve covers had a tendency to weep and leak (they were kind of crappy valve covers). These are heavy aluminum covers and eliminate any valve cover weeping. Ed found some nice ones, they look way better than mine :D On the Haynes manual, cancel your order and I'll send you mine for free. At best it is an ok guide to where things are located. You want an Isuzu factory service manual though, they show up on EBay frequently. My opinion is both Chilton and Haynes suck. One other cheap upgrade to look into is getting LED bulbs to replace the Halogen ones you are running now. Huge difference on and off road. I think under 60 bucks on Amazon for a complete plug and play setup. mrdunge on this site just did his Trooper, if you PM him, he will be glad to provide the details. So you do need to get the bushings done and get a road force balance to get your steering and suspension set. At 135K your lower control arm bushing should be okay, upper control arms I'd check but at your mileage my guess is they still have a ways to go. OEM bushings Isuzu used were great quality.

From your pictures and the mileage on your 90, we are all assuming you will be keeping it for awhile, so you are hearing lots of suggestions with that thought in mind. At 135K, your truck is just getting broken in. The condition from what I see indicates good maintenance so when you have the basics done, you can enjoy it and do whatever else you want at your leisure.

I'm jealous, this is a really good find. First generation Troopers in this condition with low mileage - and no rust ( not even surface rust) are really hard to find.
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Re: 1990 Izusu Trooper 5MT - First Izusu

Postby wmorrisiii » Wed Mar 15, 2017 9:27 pm

Ed can chime in on this, but factory spec on timing is 10 degrees advanced. Mine runs best at 11 degrees and other opinions I've heard are 12 to 14 works well, I do have have a larger Holley throttle body on mine and occasionally NOS ones will show up for sale. Not sure if mine is a 5.2 or 5.6, been a while and a few different engines in between. I do think Geoff has the best value and set up out there now with the one he is putting together.
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Re: 1990 Izusu Trooper 5MT - First Izusu

Postby furiousbob » Wed Mar 15, 2017 9:45 pm

Wow Ed, those look fantastic. I'm not taking too much pride in my engine bay.. as of right now. It's pretty dirty. This may have to be something I do down the road, though!

wmorrisiii wrote:My opinion is both Chilton and Haynes suck.


I totally agree. I received a Chilton manual in the mail and it's rather underwhelming.

wmorrisiii wrote:One other cheap upgrade to look into is getting LED bulbs to replace the Halogen ones you are running now.


I happen to sell automotive LED's as part of my job. I was originally thinking HID's down the road but I might just go LED instead. I currently have a lot of condensation going on on the passenger's side lamp. I've yet to diagnose it. I'm assuming it's a leaky gasket sealing the bulb.

wmorrisiii wrote:So you do need to get the bushings done and get a road force balance to get your steering and suspension set.


I think I'm going to forego the lift and concentrate on leaf bushings + front sway bar bushings. I don't see any other bushings going out other than the lower control arms, which I just received in the mail today! The leaf spring bushings and sway bar bushing should stiffen things up, no?

wmorrisiii wrote:From your pictures and the mileage on your 90, we are all assuming you will be keeping it for awhile, so you are hearing lots of suggestions with that thought in mind. At 135K, your truck is just getting broken in. The condition from what I see indicates good maintenance so when you have the basics done, you can enjoy it and do whatever else you want at your leisure.


123K 8)

And yeah I'm not gunna make the same mistake I made with my last project (pour tons and tons of money in to parts and end up with nothing to work on in 2 months)

wmorrisiii wrote:I'm jealous, this is a really good find. First generation Troopers in this condition with low mileage - and no rust ( not even surface rust) are really hard to find.


After seeing some of the Troopers around scrap yards (I've yet to see another 1st gen on the road) and on the forums, I'm kinda really grateful for this find. I think I'm going to try my best to not ruin this Trooper and stick to maintenance. I drove my Trooper to work today in 90 deg SoCal heat and it was pretty rough... I'm not what I'd do when the 110 deg days come around. I could probably just drive my 2014 Mazda haha. BUT yeah air conditioning is on the agenda for this week. I've ordered an R22a kit to recharge (with dye) to see where and how much is leaking. Right now, the system has ZERO psi. Yikes.
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Re: 1990 Izusu Trooper 5MT - First Izusu

Postby furiousbob » Wed Mar 15, 2017 9:53 pm

Oh and any pointers for fixing steering play? It's really sorta driving me nuts and I've read countless threads on em.
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Re: 1990 Izusu Trooper 5MT - First Izusu

Postby Ed Mc. » Wed Mar 15, 2017 10:22 pm

wmorrisiii wrote:Ed can chime in on this, but factory spec on timing is 10 degrees advanced. Mine runs best at 11 degrees and other opinions I've heard are 12 to 14 works well, I do have have a larger Holley throttle body on mine and occasionally NOS ones will show up for sale. Not sure if mine is a 5.2 or 5.6, been a while and a few different engines in between. I do think Geoff has the best value and set up out there now with the one he is putting together.


I think mine is set to either 13 or 14 deg BTDC and it used to ping a bit under light load. But now that I think about it, since I've been using non-ethanol gas I don't recall it pinging a bit. Another oddity, I used to get the "check engine" light a lot for Code 34 (EGR) but with the new, low-restriction large-diameter exhaust, don't recall getting any codes recently, either.

Don't think you'd hurt a thing by running it at 12 deg advanced, but I dunno if the Smog Nazis check that in CommieFornia. Anywhere else it shouldn't matter. Jacking the timing up on these is somewhat self-defeating, if you go too far the spark knock sensor is going to retard timing anyhow, when it "hears" pinging. So the best you can do is set it up with as much advance as the engine likes (which probably is 14 or less).

BTW the Holley TBI with the same size bores as a stock 4.3 TBI is the 502-3. The only thing I found at Holley was a few repair parts.

NEWS FLASH: This site claims to have (2) Holley 502-3s in stock!

https://electromotive.com/our-products/ ... -tbi-unit/

Someone should snatch one up before they disappear, but I would contact them to ensure they are really in stock before ordering.
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Re: 1990 Izusu Trooper 5MT - First Izusu

Postby wmorrisiii » Wed Mar 15, 2017 10:46 pm

123K does nothing to allieviate my envy.

Yes on the AC being important. It is a fairly straight forward system to troubleshoot. Get a pack of green AC gaskets for your connections as they will need replacing. Check all connections and look for cracks in the aluminum nuts on the hard line connections. Ditto on checking the soft lines. Then it is figuring out if it is condenser, compressor, drier, evaporator or expansion valve related. For what it's worth the condenser is usually rock solid. It is heavy duty and I've never found one that wouldn't pressure check. I would definitely stay with OEM there. The one aftermarket condenser I tried was Chinese and lasted less than a week. If I remember correctly the OEM evaporator is a one piece unit with integral expansion valve. Aftermarket is two piece. I've used both with good results. Drier is simple and cheap and should be replaced before recharging. Compressor is the expensive part but can be rebuilt and clutch can be replaced separately as well. And as stated, make sure you are running a 195 degree thermostat. One thing I noted when I fixed mine last time is that all connections need to be really tight, tighter than I am normally comfortable cranking anything down. And look for multiple leaks in the circuit. First go around last time I found a leak, recharged the system, and found out I missed two other ones. No fun.

Both headlamps are prone to leaking and condensation, which leads to the reflectors rusting out. If yours haven't gotten that far, pour some rubbing alcohol in the one with condensation, it will displace the water and you can swab out the inside and let it dry. My fix was then to put silicone all around the glass where it joins the housing. It worked. First gen headlights are getting impossible to find in the yards and expensive to buy, like $150 to $175 each. There are Malaysian manufactured one you can buy that will work but I haven't tried one yet.

Yes and yes on the bushings stiffening things up.

90 in SoCa today? Wow, it was 20 in the VA mountains when I left for work. No idea if my AC is working ...but my heater was roaring :lol:
Willie's 1990 Trooper LS, 2.8L
The Duck Marsh Debutante

Willie's 1987 Trooper LS, 2.3L
The Coonhound

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Re: 1990 Izusu Trooper 5MT - First Izusu

Postby wmorrisiii » Wed Mar 15, 2017 11:13 pm

Thanks Ed, that makes sense 502-3 in my mind would now translate to 1989 Dodge 5.2l (318) TBI motor which is what I'm currently working on to put back in an old 2wd Ram truck. What you can do to pump up this engine is endless if you carb it, which I am thinking about doing. Stock it is only 170 ponies and the TBI limits it in much in the same way it does in the Trooper, as the ECM controls the effectiveness of lots of modifications since neither ECM can be tuned or reprogrammed. If I leave the EFI I can get a small bump in horsepower and better mpg with a different cam. My Mopar buddies are having a fit that I'd even consider that on a rebuild, but I always have a tendency to error on the stock OEM side. More on this one later as I'm just going to keep it running and functional until I finish my 87 Trooper.
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Re: 1990 Izusu Trooper 5MT - First Izusu

Postby furiousbob » Thu Mar 16, 2017 1:58 am

Ed Mc. wrote:NEWS FLASH: This site claims to have (2) Holley 502-3s in stock!

https://electromotive.com/our-products/ ... -tbi-unit/

Someone should snatch one up before they disappear, but I would contact them to ensure they are really in stock before ordering.


I tried ordering that from them a couple weeks back. Error in checkout. I then tried contacting them. No dice.
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Re: 1990 Izusu Trooper 5MT - First Izusu

Postby furiousbob » Thu Mar 16, 2017 3:28 pm

wmorrisiii wrote:Then it is figuring out if it is condenser, compressor, drier, evaporator or expansion valve related. For what it's worth the condenser is usually rock solid. It is heavy duty and I've never found one that wouldn't pressure check. I would definitely stay with OEM there. The one aftermarket condenser I tried was Chinese and lasted less than a week. If I remember correctly the OEM evaporator is a one piece unit with integral expansion valve. Aftermarket is two piece. I've used both with good results. Drier is simple and cheap and should be replaced before recharging. Compressor is the expensive part but can be rebuilt and clutch can be replaced separately as well. And as stated, make sure you are running a 195 degree thermostat. One thing I noted when I fixed mine last time is that all connections need to be really tight, tighter than I am normally comfortable cranking anything down. And look for multiple leaks in the circuit. First go around last time I found a leak, recharged the system, and found out I missed two other ones. No fun.


Is there anywhere where I can find a parts diagram of the system? The drier/expansion valve/evaporator/o-ring kit can be had from Rockauto for about $100. I might as well just go through and refresh everything.

Seeing as to how there's 0 psi in the system right now, the compressor won't click on because of a built-in safeguard feature, right? Would it be wise to dump in a can (like 2oz) of refrigerant just to see if the compressor clicks on? If not, what's the easiest way to diagnose the compressor?

** On second thought, I might just dump in the dye can and see if that works. I also have a "leakstop" can and a "lubricant" can. Would it be wise(r) to dump in the dye/"leakstop"/"lubricant" to see which component needs replacing first or just throw it all in to the wind and replace everything willy nilly?
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Re: 1990 Izusu Trooper 5MT - First Izusu

Postby Ed Mc. » Thu Mar 16, 2017 4:20 pm

You would need more than a couple ounces of refrigerant to get the compressor to run. If all you're wanting to do is see if the compressor clutch kicks in and the compressor turns, you could bypass the safety controls but I would only run it long enough to see that it turns.

I'd recommend picking up a set of inexpensive refrigeration gauges and a vacuum pump, you really can't properly service an A/C system without being able to pull a vacuum on the system. All air and other contaminants have to be removed before you can charge it fully with freon to make it work again. Plus, as part of the troubleshooting you pull a vacuum on the system then shut off the pump, isolate the system, and see if it holds vacuum. That's the final indication that you have no leaks.

Here's a set of gauges at Amazon: https://www.amazon.com/Raomdityat-Diagn ... ion+gauges

And a vacuum pump: https://www.amazon.com/dp/B01MA2YPC2?psc=1

Just a bit of an investment but considering the price of A/C service at a shop, cheep!

You could pull a vacuum on the system and see what happens. Who knows, maybe it'll hold! More likely it's gonna leak down.

Before you spend the $$ gauges & pump, you could charge the system with a few ounces of Freon and use a leak detector. This one at Amazon isn't too expensive and has good reviews:

https://www.amazon.com/Signstek-Portabl ... k+detector

There ya go, with those 3 tools you can service just about any A/C system. If you want to splurge, get a more expensive set of gauges (which will be more durable for many repeat uses) and a 2-stage vacuum pump.

But the ones listed will certainly do the job. I made a vacuum pump out of an old refrigeration compressor and have been using it for years. I serviced the A/C in a '98 Tracker 2 years ago and it's still cold as ice.

Check out this set at eBay, looks decent for the money:

http://www.ebay.com/itm/2-Stage-Rotary- ... SwtfhYrVJL

HTH.........ed
'90 3.4 Troop LS;
'89 Troop RS (Exhaust Valve Challenged), now gone to a Good Home!
Yes, I am a Trooper-Holic!!!
Keep On Troopin' !

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Re: 1990 Izusu Trooper 5MT - First Izusu

Postby chuffer » Tue Mar 28, 2017 2:30 pm

The best way to check for steering looseness is to have someone rock the steering-wheel back and forth while you check each component in order from the firewall to the steering gear and then to each knuckle. It will be pretty clear if something is extremely loose or worn out. It may be that multiple worn components are "working together" to create the play.
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1986 Ford F250 aka "Mr. Green Jeans"
1979 IH Scout II aka "Boroboro-kun"

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Re: 1990 Izusu Trooper 5MT - First Izusu

Postby furiousbob » Mon Apr 17, 2017 3:50 pm

UPDATE


-A/C is fixed: viewtopic.php?f=7&t=103569

-Actually climbed a trail over the weekend. We were coming from a track event at Grange Circuit in Apple Valley and my buddy in his Xterra decided to show me a local trail. He knew I was a little wet behind the ears so he picked a trail with one, easy main stretch and some optional advanced detours. He promised to stick to the main road but we ended up climbing all the advanced stuff. Some parts, I nearly shat myself as the high-centered Trooper teetered and tottered. Overall, I got a chance to get to know the trooper and how it reacts to different situations. I was pretty nervous at first but it ended up giving me a pretty cool adrenaline rush ( different than say, drifting a corner at the track ).

My initial goals of lifting the truck have waned as I had zero rub on 31x10.5's (the BFG KO2's held up fantastic, as well). I'll be refocusing on acquiring quick disconnects for the front sway bar and some weld-on sliders.

So figuring out post-type sway bar end link disconnects, welding on sliders, welding together the 2.25" exhaust and slapping on the 4.3L TBI... all in all I'd say I'll be pretty mod-happy, for now.

Here's a photo from the top of the trail:

Image
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Re: 1990 Izusu Trooper 5MT - First Izusu

Postby chuffer » Mon Apr 17, 2017 5:20 pm

Good to hear that you enjoyed the Trooper off-road. FWIW, Troopers feel a lot tippier than they really are.

As far as the sway bar-disconnect, I wouldn't bother. That IFS front end does very good off-road and it is well balanced left to right and also with the rear suspension. You will spend plenty of time on three wheels if you wheel-hard, but it is very very predictable. Remove the sway bar and that predictability goes out the window. Sliders, upgraded tie-rods and some extraction points will take that truck a long way.
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Re: 1990 Izusu Trooper 5MT - First Izusu

Postby furiousbob » Mon Apr 17, 2017 7:29 pm

Great advice!

I don't really have much to benchmark the "tippiness" of the Trooper. I've only ever taken one other thing off-road... a 2WD Ford Expedition.. and by "off-road", I mean like a flat desert.

I'll take your advice on leaving the disconnects alone. I had picked up a rear sway bar off of a 2nd gen Trooper at the yard and had plans on welding it in. I might forego that as well.

But... I gotta weld SOMETHING so I guess I'll pick up some sliders. Generally, bolt-on sliders are frowned upon, correct? I've seen a few companies selling weld-on sliders for our cars. Any advice on which brand serves best?

Also, I knicked my front bumper on a decline over the weekend. I know our Troopers have a pretty good approach angle already but are aftermarket bumpers just dumb and chintsy? I was also toying with the idea of removing the bumper altogether and maybe fabbing up a bash bar.
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Re: 1990 Izusu Trooper 5MT - First Izusu

Postby chuffer » Mon Apr 17, 2017 9:21 pm

Aftermarket bumpers for the first gen Trooper are unicorn-hens-teeth. BYOBOB. Build your own bumper or bust...I just made that up. Feel free to copy it. :alien:

If you want to weld something, weld up some sliders. I am not sure that anyone offers aftermarket sliders for our trucks anymore either. Toyota stuff (like 4 runner stuff) might be modifiable to fit. Otherwise, building your own or having some built is about it.

Depending on where you are, there are folks who'll build either/both for you. I think Darlington on the east coast (NC if I remember) is a respected source. I'd bet Bradzipple (Bradzuzu here on the planet) would make you some gear for a fair price if you are in the OR/WA area.
-Chris
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1988 Isuzu Trooper 2.6l 5-spd aka "Stinky"
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Re: 1990 Izusu Trooper 5MT - First Izusu

Postby hessmess » Tue Apr 18, 2017 11:02 am

This is one spot that makes up sliders, they are a bolt on but you could weld them on also. I bought mine from them.
http://www.rocky-road.com/index2.html

They are located in Utah
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