Ed Mc. wrote:Up to you, the single-wire non-heated sensor will likely work just fine. Just remember to point the sensor bung on the cat upwards! Don't ask me how I know about that!!!!
Ed Mc. wrote:You might look for a mandrel-bent 90 for the pssgr-side piping transition. The regular "bent" pipes are cheap, but they do tend to be a bit squashed due to the non-mandrel pipe bender. The mandrel-bent pipe will have a uniform diameter all-the-way and probably be easier to fit-up anyway. And flow better to boot.
Ed Mc. wrote:On your loose steering, is it just free-play in the steering wheel? Because that should just be an adjustment on the steering box.
Ed Mc. wrote:Also makes a good excuse to do the Big Brake mod at the same time, that's what I did with mine and I don't regret it.
You're gonna notice the loss of braking power with larger tires and you'll get that back by going with Gen II front rotors and calipers since the Gen II rotors are larger in diameter. Anyway, search "big brake" or "big brake mod" for plenty info on that..........ed
itsmehb wrote:If you opt for the big brake upgrade you might keep this in mind. I'm pretty sure the Rodeo brakes are the same up grade as the Trooper brakes. (Gen. two) And I know that some junk yards charge more for truck parts than for car parts. I know pick and pull does this and case in point, Used Trooper rotors are double Rodeo rotors.
furiousbob wrote:So just to be sure, Gen II Rodeo brakes fit Gen I Rodeos and Gen II Trooper brakes will fit Gen I Trooper brakes BUT Gen II Rodeo brakes will not fit Gen I Trooper brakes? I'm going to run down to the local PYP this weekend if I spot any snowflakes lying around. Might as well pull the front brakes too. I'll need rotors, calipers AND the brackets, correct?
wmorrisiii wrote:My opinion is both Chilton and Haynes suck.
wmorrisiii wrote:One other cheap upgrade to look into is getting LED bulbs to replace the Halogen ones you are running now.
wmorrisiii wrote:So you do need to get the bushings done and get a road force balance to get your steering and suspension set.
wmorrisiii wrote:From your pictures and the mileage on your 90, we are all assuming you will be keeping it for awhile, so you are hearing lots of suggestions with that thought in mind. At 135K, your truck is just getting broken in. The condition from what I see indicates good maintenance so when you have the basics done, you can enjoy it and do whatever else you want at your leisure.
wmorrisiii wrote:I'm jealous, this is a really good find. First generation Troopers in this condition with low mileage - and no rust ( not even surface rust) are really hard to find.
wmorrisiii wrote:Ed can chime in on this, but factory spec on timing is 10 degrees advanced. Mine runs best at 11 degrees and other opinions I've heard are 12 to 14 works well, I do have have a larger Holley throttle body on mine and occasionally NOS ones will show up for sale. Not sure if mine is a 5.2 or 5.6, been a while and a few different engines in between. I do think Geoff has the best value and set up out there now with the one he is putting together.
Ed Mc. wrote:NEWS FLASH: This site claims to have (2) Holley 502-3s in stock!
https://electromotive.com/our-products/ ... -tbi-unit/
Someone should snatch one up before they disappear, but I would contact them to ensure they are really in stock before ordering.
wmorrisiii wrote:Then it is figuring out if it is condenser, compressor, drier, evaporator or expansion valve related. For what it's worth the condenser is usually rock solid. It is heavy duty and I've never found one that wouldn't pressure check. I would definitely stay with OEM there. The one aftermarket condenser I tried was Chinese and lasted less than a week. If I remember correctly the OEM evaporator is a one piece unit with integral expansion valve. Aftermarket is two piece. I've used both with good results. Drier is simple and cheap and should be replaced before recharging. Compressor is the expensive part but can be rebuilt and clutch can be replaced separately as well. And as stated, make sure you are running a 195 degree thermostat. One thing I noted when I fixed mine last time is that all connections need to be really tight, tighter than I am normally comfortable cranking anything down. And look for multiple leaks in the circuit. First go around last time I found a leak, recharged the system, and found out I missed two other ones. No fun.
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