Rust and Rot

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Re: Rust and Rot

Postby red cube » Tue Mar 21, 2017 10:46 pm

It's not just salt in the winter in the rust belt; many places chloride their dirt roads in the summer to "keep the dust down". BTW: that doesn't work. At least twice a year I get lost in a dust cloud mowing near the road. I'm surprised my mower hasn't rusted out as well :lol: :lol: And in the rainy spring season mud (laced with winter salt) finds it's way inside the frame rails. Welding is one more skill to learn, which comes in handy in many ways. A few years back I welded up a buddy's JD mower deck where it had rotted out (grass trap + left outside for years). For better or worse, I'm better at welding than engine rebuilding.

And when it gets as bad as 96Trooper's RS, well, it's almost easier just to get a couple of lengths of rectangular tube and replace the whole thing. Almost. :help:
for Lo! I am Isuzu: consumer of fuel and harbinger of rust;
Look upon my tires, ye potholes, and despair!
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Re: Rust and Rot

Postby reubenT » Thu Apr 20, 2017 10:08 am

It is to the auto makers advantage to make vehicles that rust out fast. There is zero incentive to do better. On one hand the faster vehicles go bad the more new ones will be sold, on the other hand if they give up too soon customers will be unhappy and buy something different. Therefore they are designed to last only so long, but not too long. Since rust usually takes over after the vehicle is paid for and warranty is off, there's reverse financial incentive to make them better. I heard of one man in the industry who carefully designed a vehicle that would be easy to repair, and of metals and materials that would last forever, and tried to get auto makers interested. No takers. He was finally told his car was too good. Once the market is saturated with such a vehicle sales would drop off, just selling to newcomers and wreck replacement, because they last so long. Why is a consumer grade auto high mileage at 200,000? There's a reason semi trucks run to a million miles or better on a regular basis before an engine rebuild or major work. They are intended to. If they didn't we'd have a lot of unhappy truckers. Then I heard of one man who ran a semi to 750,000 miles with hydrogen feed to the diesel. Had an engine teardown inspection done by a mechanic, everything looked almost new, so he put it back together and kept going. Hydrogen (or hydroxy as it's produced onboard from water and not separated from oxygen) causes the diesel to burn more efficiently eliminating carbon deposits that wear things out. Boosting MPG by 20-50% while it's at it.

Those trucks can run as much as 1200 miles per day, (2 drivers at 11 hours each) and keep it up 6 days a week for years. (7 days would require extra drivers because of the restart rule requiring an extra time break once a week) We bought an 03 mack in 2014 that had 800,000 miles on it, started driving it and repairing stuff as needed. It's well over a million now, but we did finally have to change engines last year with somewhere around a million on it. I drove it with a friend 3 months and then my brother and cousin took it awhile, then we hired a driver. Now the hired driver is on a leased truck and ours is making a run to the west coast with our friend and his father. (He's serving as dispatch and general manager) Looks like we could be into 5 trucks before too long. My brother just bought an old 70's ford dump truck with 534 CI gas engine in need of rebuild, hoping to get it going and restore for a medium duty car hauler. Really cheap truck, guess he got it for a few hundred dollars, but would take a lot of work. Wouldn't be my choice to start on, but that's OK. At least it would slip by several of the trucking regulations. Like electronic logging and CA smog regs. Can put hydroxy on gas too, boost mpg and reduce engine wear, but have to figure out how to reduce fuel delivery, sometimes the automatic mixture controls don't adjust to the more efficient burn on their own.

I'm in TN, they use a little salt but not much snow to use it all the time, and local vehicles are pretty good about lasting. But get one from up north and it's usually in bad shape. I traded for a 93 jeep cherokee from Ohio once, later ended up selling it to a scrap yard even though it still ran. It was too rusty underneath to be safe on the road, axle stabilizer arms could fall apart. The two Isuzu pickups I have about the same age are from south and north, the 4x4 I'm fixing has a rotten out frame, the 2 wd from local is in great shape. So I plan on combining them somehow. Front part of frame on 4x4 looks OK, it had enough oil leaks around the engine to keep it from rusting out, from under the cab on back it would be on the ground if someone hadn't reinforced it with angle iron. So I'm thinking of possibly cutting the frame in half on both and welding the good one from the 2 wd truck on the 4x4 front end, might be easier than to attempt a complete transfer of all 4x4 parts. Would like to make it my regular transportation.
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Re: Rust and Rot

Postby itsmehb » Fri Apr 21, 2017 3:09 pm

All so true. Nothing lasts anymore. I remember as a kid we had a bucket-a-day device we used for hot water. When my parents got there first hot water heater I was about 10 years old. I moved on with my life as I aged, but at one time when visiting my mother after my dad passed away and I was well into my 60's, I noticed she still had that original hot water heater that I remembered as a kid. Try that with todays hot water heaters. Totally off subject, just had to throw that in.
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Re: Rust and Rot

Postby Hawaiian Whore » Wed May 24, 2017 1:45 pm

so why hasn't anyone plastidipped their frame? As soon as mine gets back up, that's what I plan on doing... I don't live anywhere near salt caked roads, but i'd rather be safe than sorry...
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Re: Rust and Rot

Postby red cube » Mon May 29, 2017 8:33 pm

Unless you've completely cleaned (i.e. chemically, with complete rinse) your frame, Plastidip will seal in any residual nasties and probably won't stop any damage. My Tacoma's frame rotted from the inside out, due to closed areas that couldn't be cleaned once crud got inside. Some rather thin gauge sections like the trans crossmember flexed enough that I wouldn't trust Plastidip not to flake off. If you were building a brand new frame, then yes, Plastidip or epoxy coating would be the way to go.
IMG_1862.jpg

Saying that, a frame supplier providing upgraded paint wouldn't cost the OEMs that much more. Most OEMs don't make their own frames anymore, they farm it out to suppliers, who would be happy to supply a superior product, if the OEMs would pay for it. It does amaze me that certain companies, knowing that their trucks' frames have had chronic rust issues for decades, don't do anything to fix it. Yes, I know, what's important to someone in Michigan isn't what's important to someone in Florida or Hawaii. But guess what: my AC condenser has stone damage. I'm pretty sure that Florida and Hawaii have stones as well..

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for Lo! I am Isuzu: consumer of fuel and harbinger of rust;
Look upon my tires, ye potholes, and despair!
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Re: Rust and Rot

Postby gwana66 » Thu Jun 01, 2017 1:13 pm

In Florida, we have bugs big enough to damage condensers and cause paint chips...but they do add a protective layer to chrome.
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Re: Rust and Rot

Postby itsmehb » Sat Jun 03, 2017 7:14 am

gwana66 wrote:In Florida, we have bugs big enough to damage condensers and cause paint chips...but they do add a protective layer to chrome.


Ouch, if your on a motorcycle.
1990 Amigo, 2.3 5 speed (sold)
1991 Pick up (long gone)
2000 Amigo, 2.2 5 speed(sold)
1985 Trooper 1.9 4 speed (sent back to KS)
1989 Trooper RS 2.6 5 spd. Red

We get too soon old and too late smart!
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Re: Rust and Rot

Postby DSUZU » Sat Jun 03, 2017 9:19 am

itsmehb wrote:
gwana66 wrote:In Florida, we have bugs big enough to damage condensers and cause paint chips...but they do add a protective layer to chrome.


Ouch, if your on a motorcycle.

And I tend to mostly ride with an open face helmet. Many years ago, I'm headed one direction, the wasp was going the opposite direction. Stung me right on the mouth. Not fun. Dennis
1991 LS Trooper 2.8 V6 5 speed conversion (Sold)
1989 LS Spacecab 2.6 5 speed 4x4 manual hubs, Rodeo torsion bars, extended shackles, 2" lift, K&N airfilter (drop in), dump bed conversion, burgundy interior change, warn brush bar.
Previously owned: 1987 Trooper II LS, 1989 Trooper (parts only), 1994 Trooper 3.2 Auto, 1997 Rodeo 2.6 5 speed, 1993 shortbed pickup 2.3 (project - sold) 1992 Rodeo 4x4 LS (parts car, devoured by Spacecab needs) plus some 70 plus other non Isuzu vehicles over the years.

http://forum.planetisuzoo.com/viewtopic.php?f=15&t=64060

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Re: Rust and Rot

Postby Von » Sat Jun 03, 2017 9:50 am

DSUZU wrote:
itsmehb wrote:
gwana66 wrote:In Florida, we have bugs big enough to damage condensers and cause paint chips...but they do add a protective layer to chrome.


Ouch, if your on a motorcycle.

And I tend to mostly ride with an open face helmet. Many years ago, I'm headed one direction, the wasp was going the opposite direction. Stung me right on the mouth. Not fun. Dennis


Big bugs and motorcycles... yuck! If there was a market for bug guts I'd have been rich!
Saw a friend of mine bail off his Wide Glide with a shirt full of yellow jackets. Left his bike laying on the side of the road while he stripped and slapped at them.

I was at a bar after a benefit run and saw a couple I knew arguing as they got off their bike. Apparently he had seen a big bug headed for him and ducked... smacked her right in the face and she smacked him in the back of the head... Him: What the hell was THAT for?!? Her: Don't you EVER duck! You're supposed to take the hit so I won't!

Big bugs... one more thing I don't miss about riding..
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1965 Ford Fairlane 500 Sports Coupe 289 & 4 speed (some assembly required)
1968 Kaiser M715, Chevy 350/700r4, stock NP200 and 5.87 gears... prepping for Ford 390/T-18/divorced NP205 transplant.. .just because.
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