Rust and Rot

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Rust and Rot

Postby Cronk » Mon Jan 30, 2017 9:34 am

Picked this Amigo up from North Chicago a while back. Runs and drives fine, had a lot of nice parts but the frame was shot due to rust. (Rear aussie, Front ARB, Terra Lows.) I traded Darling the locker for a 5 speed setup. Planning on using the drivetrain to power a build. Putting the hardtop on a Rodeo Sport that I recently picked up. Also used most the body panels to fix the same Rodeo Sport. As sad as it is, this thing will live on but I wanted to show what salt does to these things.

Back bumper mount. Was completely loose and rust just fell off of it when I disconnected the passenger side mount. Rear frame is just crumbling.
20170128_131055.jpg


20170128_105934.jpg


Rear suspension scaling. Pretty evident in this picture. The bump stop literally just fell off.

20170128_105947.jpg


Once I get the frame exposed I'll take better pictures.
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Re: Rust and Rot

Postby squatch » Mon Jan 30, 2017 12:30 pm

I HATE RUST!!!!!!!!!!!!!!
These links have write-ups and pics of most anything you ever will do on a 2.6 Isuzu. Engine, brakes, suspension, interior, you name it! Enjoy!
Original '88 Trooper frame off build.
viewtopic.php?t=12172
The continuing Trooper project.
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My '88 Spacecab build. In progress.
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Re: Rust and Rot

Postby 96TrooperSE » Mon Jan 30, 2017 2:20 pm

The cancer of cars! We've lost a lot of good Zu's to that stuff. Thats the #1 reason I want to move out of the salt belt. I can deal with the cold and the snow, but not the rust :x

Check out the 89 RS I picked up for parts. Only had 50,000 miles but the frame was completely disintegrated!
IMG_2950.JPG
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2000 Trooper Limited: Was 2wd, auto, gas. Now 4wd, 5 speed, diesel.

2001 Trooper S: Castrated and sold.

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Re: Rust and Rot

Postby Cronk » Mon Jan 30, 2017 2:46 pm

96TrooperSE wrote:The cancer of cars! We've lost a lot of good Zu's to that stuff. Thats the #1 reason I want to move out of the salt belt. I can deal with the cold and the snow, but not the rust :x

Check out the 89 RS I picked up for parts. Only had 50,000 miles but the frame was completely disintegrated!





Wow! :shock: Not much left of that one!

You still have your Trooper? Hard to believe I met you and your dad so many years ago......
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Re: Rust and Rot

Postby BigSwede » Mon Jan 30, 2017 3:07 pm

There's a reason I bought my Trooper in Texas...when I live in Minnesota.
95 Trooper LS - 4" lift, 35" tires, 5.38 gears, ARB lockers
Indy4x Revolution 3.07:1 low range gears, Indy4x HD tie rods, homemade sway bar disconnects, Calmini HD sway bars, Darlington diff drop, OME 929 coil springs + 1" poly spacers and 1" body lift, Indy4x HD torsion bars, Indy4x HD rear axle links, Indy4x Kevlar brake lines, ARB bullbar, custom rear bumper with swing-out dual jerry can carrier, rock sliders, Sears Platinum Group 31 battery, ARB mini-compressor, Indy4x kevlar air lines, Warn M8000 winch, Blue Sea 6006 winch cutoff switch, Yaesu FT-1900R 2-meter ham radio, Larsen MHW-150C 1/2 wave antenna, Cobra 18WXST CB radio, Firestik II CB antenna, IPF driving lights, generic fog lights, two (2) Blue Sea auxiliary fuse panels, sleeping platform, and outofrshell Dave's custom 1" shifter extension. (I actually typed this list as a joke but people seem to like it.)
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Re: Rust and Rot

Postby Hack » Mon Jan 30, 2017 3:55 pm

Sadly, too many people don't know how to drive. They feel that they have to be either on the gas or brake 100% of the time. They drive the same way regardless of conditions. So when the roads get slick they slide all over the place. As a result, many DOTs go heavy on the salt. I have seen roads "pre-teated" in VA and MD when it never ended up snowing. Unfortunately, most people are fine with this because it "saves lives" and they don't keep their vehicles for over a decade like we do.
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RIP: 1988 Troop 2.6L 5spd. Burnt valve(s). Damaged frame. Parted out. Sent to crusher.
RIP: 1998 4WD Rodeo, Auto, 3.2L -- Ruined by Daughter #1 with Russian assistance. Parted out. Sent to crusher.
RIP: 1989 Troop 2.6L 5spd --- Stripped of all good parts. Body and rotted frame sent to the crusher.
RIP: 1999 2WD Amigo, Auto, 3.2L -- Engine blown and body damaged by Daughter #2. Parted out. Sent to crusher.
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Re: Rust and Rot

Postby 96TrooperSE » Mon Jan 30, 2017 4:11 pm

Cronk wrote:
96TrooperSE wrote:The cancer of cars! We've lost a lot of good Zu's to that stuff. Thats the #1 reason I want to move out of the salt belt. I can deal with the cold and the snow, but not the rust :x

Check out the 89 RS I picked up for parts. Only had 50,000 miles but the frame was completely disintegrated!





Wow! :shock: Not much left of that one!

You still have your Trooper? Hard to believe I met you and your dad so many years ago......


Yeah its been a few years since then; time flies by for sure. I've gone through a couple troopers since then. I did the same as BigSwede and found a rust free Texas trooper.
2000 Trooper Limited: Was 2wd, auto, gas. Now 4wd, 5 speed, diesel.

2001 Trooper S: Castrated and sold.

1996 Trooper SE: Former beaten and battered trail cruiser. Gone but not forgotten
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Re: Rust and Rot

Postby Cronk » Mon Jan 30, 2017 4:40 pm

BigSwede wrote:There's a reason I bought my Trooper in Texas...when I live in Minnesota.


There's a reason I'm not driving my Rodeo right now. I've been religious about pressure washing and then rattle canning the frame every spring summer. So far its held up. I'm hanging onto the RS to preserve for the same reason. Would like to find a mint 2nd gen like you did. In time I guess.

Hack wrote:Sadly, too many people don't know how to drive. They feel that they have to be either on the gas or brake 100% of the time. They drive the same way regardless of conditions. So when the roads get slick they slide all over the place. As a result, many DOTs go heavy on the salt. I have seen roads "pre-teated" in VA and MD when it never ended up snowing. Unfortunately, most people are fine with this because it "saves lives" and they don't keep their vehicles for over a decade like we do.


I see nice newer vehicles (less than 5 years old) here with rust holes. It's both good and bad that a guy can pick 2nd gen Rodeo and Troopers off of craiglist all day for nothing because of rusty frames. (Also because of bad tannys or spun rods bearings). There's actually nice looking Rodeo Sport in Indy right now that I can probably get for $250.00 that has a bad engine. Lots of good parts and 477s! Half tempted to buy it just to get what I want off of it and scrap it out.....
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Re: Rust and Rot

Postby BigSwede » Mon Jan 30, 2017 5:32 pm

The bodies on 2nd gen Troopers seem to resist rot pretty well, but the frames are vulnerable. There are hardly any first gens around here these days, I think they all dissolved.

I don't really drive my Trooper in the salt. My DD is an FJC that came from AZ and was pristine when I got it. I am using Fluid Film on it underneath, we'll see how it does.
95 Trooper LS - 4" lift, 35" tires, 5.38 gears, ARB lockers
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Re: Rust and Rot

Postby Cronk » Mon Jan 30, 2017 5:40 pm

BigSwede wrote:There are hardly any first gens around here these days, I think they all dissolved.


ha! ha! Maybe so!

BigSwede wrote:My DD is an FJC that came from AZ and was pristine when I got it. I am using Fluid Film on it underneath, we'll see how it does.


I signed up for unlimited carwashes at Crew Carwash, been taking the Colorado through there every other day. (If the line isn't ridiculous.) Is 5 minutes away from our house. Been looking for a good rust inhibitor though. That stuff easy to apply? I need to put something under this one.
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Re: Rust and Rot

Postby BigSwede » Mon Jan 30, 2017 6:23 pm

Pretty easy assuming you have a compressor. I got the kit #1 here http://kellsportproducts.com/fluidfilmkits.html I got 2+ applications from one gallon. If you don't have a compressor you can go all aerosol can, but that will cost more in the long run.

I just jack up one side at a time to make it a little easier to move around underneath, and spray everything metal except the brake rotors. I do it in the driveway as there is a bit of wet sheep odor to it (lanolin based) for a few days. It is actually pretty inert stuff, it just prevents rust by keeping the oxygen away from the metal.
95 Trooper LS - 4" lift, 35" tires, 5.38 gears, ARB lockers
Indy4x Revolution 3.07:1 low range gears, Indy4x HD tie rods, homemade sway bar disconnects, Calmini HD sway bars, Darlington diff drop, OME 929 coil springs + 1" poly spacers and 1" body lift, Indy4x HD torsion bars, Indy4x HD rear axle links, Indy4x Kevlar brake lines, ARB bullbar, custom rear bumper with swing-out dual jerry can carrier, rock sliders, Sears Platinum Group 31 battery, ARB mini-compressor, Indy4x kevlar air lines, Warn M8000 winch, Blue Sea 6006 winch cutoff switch, Yaesu FT-1900R 2-meter ham radio, Larsen MHW-150C 1/2 wave antenna, Cobra 18WXST CB radio, Firestik II CB antenna, IPF driving lights, generic fog lights, two (2) Blue Sea auxiliary fuse panels, sleeping platform, and outofrshell Dave's custom 1" shifter extension. (I actually typed this list as a joke but people seem to like it.)
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Re: Rust and Rot

Postby wmorrisiii » Mon Jan 30, 2017 9:29 pm

My old girl had more than her share of rust and rot when I bought her and I've been repairing it ever since. It is a yearly chore coating everything and I think I've used most of what is available. Everything I read on the forum has helped and probably more so by using lots of the rust preventative recommendations in combination, and then checking the truck over religiously to catch things early. Mario is right about pretreating our roads, they salt the crap out of them if there is a hint of any accumulation coming, which never seems to be very effective, and then keep throwing the salt at them long after they are passable (passable when using a little common sense, I know, that is as difficult to find as a rust free Trooper). Knowing that the rust is eventually going to win and I'm going to lose my much loved 90, I did what any sane Planet member would do, I bought another one as a backup, a rust free 87, and I am looking for a backup for my backup now, preferably a rust free 2 door LWB. Perfectly logical...I know you guys understand :lol:
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Re: Rust and Rot

Postby Cronk » Tue Jan 31, 2017 4:27 pm

wmorrisiii wrote:Knowing that the rust is eventually going to win and I'm going to lose my much loved 90, I did what any sane Planet member would do, I bought another one as a backup, a rust free 87, and I am looking for a backup for my backup now, preferably a rust free 2 door LWB. Perfectly logical...I know you guys understand :lol:


That does seem to be the theme around here! :lol:
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Re: Rust and Rot

Postby JLEMOND » Tue Jan 31, 2017 9:06 pm

DANG THOSE TERMITES IN CHICAGO EAT ANYTHING .
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Re: Rust and Rot

Postby Cronk » Tue Jan 31, 2017 9:18 pm

JLEMOND wrote:DANG THOSE TERMITES IN CHICAGO EAT ANYTHING .


It's all the crime!
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Re: Rust and Rot

Postby itsmehb » Tue Jan 31, 2017 11:54 pm

BigSwede wrote:There's a reason I bought my Trooper in Texas...when I live in Minnesota.


Unfortunately, can't say that anymore. They started this year pre-treating roads with brine. I was at the casino about 2 weeks ago. On the way down 35 I noticed the road was wet. I came up to a truck going 65 to 70 miles per hour with a rake across the back spraying brine on the highway. It was like driving in a rainstorm. I had to go 80 to get around him. I was totally pissed. When I got home the car was coated with salt. I went to the car wash and had it washed, but I know they didn't get the underneath very good. We're going to have cars rusted out in several years just like the rust belt states.
1990 Amigo, 2.3 5 speed (sold)
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We get too soon old and too late smart!
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Re: Rust and Rot

Postby radare » Wed Feb 01, 2017 3:25 am

We have the salted roads here in Denver too. I try to keep the underside of the Rodeo washed during the winter season; on my knees at the car wash, spraying the undersides of the frame and body. Most people look at me like I'm nuts.

And in the spring, I get under it and touch-up any parts of the frame that have started to show corrosion with run-of-the mill black spray paint. Has worked thus far.
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Re: Rust and Rot

Postby gwana66 » Wed Feb 01, 2017 12:29 pm

I guess I got lucky. The '98 that I ended up with spent most of its life in NY. When I first got it I feared the worst and got underneath. It had a really thick undercoating on it that I thought was the previous owner covering things up. Turns out it was Ziebarted when new - it has little plugs all down the door sills and in odd spots. I guess the stuff actually works. The only rust I had was around the front suspension where I suspect salty slush piled up while driving and were spots they didn't treat - tops of the control arms and the top side of the transmission crossmember.
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Re: Rust and Rot

Postby DSUZU » Thu Feb 02, 2017 5:33 pm

Yeah, down here in Florida, we never get road salt. What we DO get is salt in the air that eats our sheet metal up. Tin termites. Dennis
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Previously owned: 1987 Trooper II LS, 1989 Trooper (parts only), 1994 Trooper 3.2 Auto, 1997 Rodeo 2.6 5 speed, 1993 shortbed pickup 2.3 (project - sold) 1992 Rodeo 4x4 LS (parts car, devoured by Spacecab needs) plus some 70 plus other non Isuzu vehicles over the years.

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Re: Rust and Rot

Postby Cronk » Fri Feb 03, 2017 10:46 am

Got the rear frame rails exposed now. Thought I'd post up a few more pictures of the rust and scale.

Passenger rear frame rail ahead of body mount.
20170201_143045.jpg


Overall view of rear frame from passenger side. Location of above picture on far left. You can see the extent of the scale and rot. Most of the rot through seems to occur where moisture would sit and mud would cake and hold moisture. Red lines run to the Rancho adjustable air ride setup. Not sure I can salvage the shocks, going to try. Old system now though. Would be cool in the vintage Pup setup.

20170201_143104.jpg


Here's where I'm with it right now. Scavenging body parts to fix that Rolled Rodeo Sport. Using A pillars for front portion of back half trailer setup. Rear floor section I pulled out may become new floor for back half trailer. Wiring harness, dash and steering being saved for the Pup build. This shop space I rented has been quickly consumed! I have a problem..... :lol:

20170201_161641.jpg
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Re: Rust and Rot

Postby gwana66 » Fri Feb 03, 2017 11:41 am

This gives me some ideas. I've been wondering about grafting the rear clip from a Rodeo to my Amigo and making a short-bed pickup out of it, closing it off right behind the seats and fabbing a drop-down tailgate. Should gain about 8" of 'bed'. Rodeocamino, anyone? Buying a pickup would just be too easy...
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Re: Rust and Rot

Postby Cronk » Fri Feb 03, 2017 12:07 pm

gwana66 wrote:This gives me some ideas. I've been wondering about grafting the rear clip from a Rodeo to my Amigo and making a short-bed pickup out of it, closing it off right behind the seats and fabbing a drop-down tailgate. Should gain about 8" of 'bed'. Rodeocamino, anyone? Buying a pickup would just be too easy...


I was thinking of doing something similar with this cab but I have too many other things going on. I'll try to get pictures but if you look at how these are put together at the factory. There are joints that slip together and get spot welded. If you dismantle and add at these points, you could make a single cab pickup in the 2nd gen style.

I was thinking of using a 2nd gen pickup cab that I have to graft onto the back of what you see here. Take the rear quarters off of an amigo for the bed sides, section in a front door to extend the bed and fill what gap is left. Be a lot of work but I think it could be pulled off.
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Re: Rust and Rot

Postby Hack » Fri Feb 03, 2017 12:19 pm

Problem is that you are starting with a rusted frame. Does it really make sense to put in that effort when there could be hidden weak spots? Besides, even if the rest of the frame is sound, I'll bet you'll be fighting every bolt due to corrosion.

Personally, I'd rather start a project with a rust-free frame. At least then you will know that the fabrication is the only issue.
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Daily Driver: 1995 Trooper Limited, Auto, 3.2L DOHC, Rear LSD, HD Torsion Bars, Moog Cc812s, Cooper Discoverer A/T3 245/70-16
Trail Truck: 2001 Amigo, Auto, 3.2L, Rear LSD, Front Aussie Locker, DOR Drop Dif, HD Torsion Bars, OME 912s, BFG M/T KA2 33x10.5R15
RIP: 1988 Troop 2.6L 5spd. Burnt valve(s). Damaged frame. Parted out. Sent to crusher.
RIP: 1998 4WD Rodeo, Auto, 3.2L -- Ruined by Daughter #1 with Russian assistance. Parted out. Sent to crusher.
RIP: 1989 Troop 2.6L 5spd --- Stripped of all good parts. Body and rotted frame sent to the crusher.
RIP: 1999 2WD Amigo, Auto, 3.2L -- Engine blown and body damaged by Daughter #2. Parted out. Sent to crusher.
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Re: Rust and Rot

Postby Cronk » Fri Feb 03, 2017 3:13 pm

Hack wrote:Problem is that you are starting with a rusted frame. Does it really make sense to put in that effort when there could be hidden weak spots? Besides, even if the rest of the frame is sound, I'll bet you'll be fighting every bolt due to corrosion.

Personally, I'd rather start a project with a rust-free frame. At least then you will know that the fabrication is the only issue.


I agree 100%. This frame is shot and most with issues will look like this in the future. Only thing of this frame that will get used is possibly the IFS being locked into position and turned into a trailer axle. (Credit to whoever recently done this, it inspired me to try same thing). If I did the Pickup, I'd source a southern donor for sure.
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Re: Rust and Rot

Postby tquinn8008 » Mon Feb 13, 2017 12:01 am

I remember when I first moved to Texas in 1981 as a teenager and was thrilled to see all the old Ford Mustangs and many other old cars still on the road and thought about some of the great cars family and friends had back in Michigan that still had good mechanicals but were ultimately junked due to death by rust and thought wouldn't it be great if there could be a place to barter and swap engines and bodies in a central place like St. Louis or Kansas City every year for car enthusiasts and restorers of all makes and models. I tear up and also chuckle when I think of my mom's 1972 Chevy Nova coupe with that great straight six engine that ran like a champ but looked like a corroded Detroit zombie car. Even so, that rust damage was mostly to sheet metal - the frame was intact...nothing like the kind of catastrophic frame corrosion I've seen and heard about on particularly the Gen 2 Rodeos. Cars don't last forever, and that includes their frames, but as much as I love Isuzu, the company really didn't do right by North American customers first with the steel used and second with the way they handled the corrosion recall.
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