the manual will tell that you must remove intake manifold.... don't bother with the intake man. its just more time money and headache... so here is the easy way..... sorry no pics.
raise and support vehicle. remove front passanger tire. remove rubber/plastic skirt from between the frame and body.
tools: most the nuts and bolts you will encounter are 10mm and 12mm i used a 14mm once on the funny hose thing at the front of the valve cover on the passanger side. some needle nose pliers will be useful and lots of ratchet extensions. maybe a universal joint or two. don't forget the all important buddy system. usually best paid with food, money, and or beer. oh i aslo used one of those magnetic parts dishes.. ablolute life saver... i just stuck it to the fender every bolt or nut i took off just stuck it to that made finding the right hard ware super easy.
remove air cleaner assembly. (remove nut from carb stud, valve cover near oil cap, and bolt form support bracket. then carefully flip the air cleaner assembly so the top rests on the driver side fender and master cylinder. now remove all nuts and bolts that hold the wire loom in place and throttle cable support bracket. remove the three valve cover bolts and lift vavle cover off.... you can do this without removing the spark plug wires or throttle cable. just takes some effort...
now its time to rotate engine so cylinder #4 is at TDC of compression stroke. so remove the coil to distributor cap wire. and have a friend crank the engine untill the intake and exhaust vavles are visibly closed. then check the cam lobe for the fuel pump... the pump push rod should be on the shortest part of the lobe. if not rotate engine till this is acomplished.
NOW REMOVE + BATTERY WIRE!!!! you will be working with your hands and tools very close to the starter. electricity and spilt fuel is a bad combonation.... please use common sense.
open the fuel door and remove the gas cap. this will relieve the pressure inside the tank. so you don't lose all your gas on the ground when you pull the hoses off the pump.
now go to the passanger front wheel well. disconnect all hoses form the pump. there is a small diaphram looking thing that the hose from the tank goes through. i'm guessing its a back flow preventor the bolt to remove that is just abouve the engine mount.. remove the two nuts that hold the EGR pipe to the underside of the intake manifold. follow the small hardline coming out of the EGR adapter to a rubber hose, once the rubber hose is located disconnect it. now pull down the EGR pipe so you can easily see the pump mounting nuts. now to reach the pump mounting nuts i used three to four wobble extensions that i bought at harbor freight for $10. if you use a 3/8" ratchet with a couple long extensions and use a reducer at the end to use a 1/4" extension then a 12mm socket. this will ease with getting at the nut towards the front of the engine. now remove the old pump, spacer and gaskets. if you wiggle the pump out as far as you can. get the left side of the pump off the stud and swing it down and towards the front of the engine it will be easy gettting it off the other stud.
now use the new gaskets and spacer to reinstall. have a buddy hold the push rod all the way against the camshaft. and put the new pump on. and put everything back together. remember to make sure all fuel lines are tight and still in good shape. if they are questionable just replace em... its already easy to get to and fuel hose for carbed vehicles is cheap. hell i went to the local checker/ shucks/ kragen auto parts and got 28 inches of fuel hose and they just gave it to me free. thats why i always go back to them for my parts. also remember to put some RTV silicone on the corners of the hump for the cam and on the corners of the plug in the back of the head. once everything is back to gether start the engine and check for oil and fuel leaks..... if it won't start double check all your plug/ coil wires and fuel hoses and battery terminal. remember also that all the fuel that was in the line from the pump to the carb is not there anymore so your going to have to crank for a little while. if it starts and runs like $#!T don't be too surprised the pump needs to get broken in.... if it keeps running bad for more than about 5 minutes double check all your vaccuum lines that might have come off during the removal of the air cleaner assembly.
before i installed my pump i put on an inline pressure gauge. with the old pump the needle would go from 6 psi to 0 really really really fast. now with the new pump it stays really constant at 4-6 psi. ok well i'm sorry that this is such a long right up but heck if it'll help out someone else then it was all worth while. so good luck to all those that will tackle this project. also for all those that read this if i missed something or you have something to add go ahead the more information the better.
by the way gotta give a shout out to jerry thanks for the tips... took about 2 hours just like you said.
raise and support vehicle. remove front passanger tire. remove rubber/plastic skirt from between the frame and body.
tools: most the nuts and bolts you will encounter are 10mm and 12mm i used a 14mm once on the funny hose thing at the front of the valve cover on the passanger side. some needle nose pliers will be useful and lots of ratchet extensions. maybe a universal joint or two. don't forget the all important buddy system. usually best paid with food, money, and or beer. oh i aslo used one of those magnetic parts dishes.. ablolute life saver... i just stuck it to the fender every bolt or nut i took off just stuck it to that made finding the right hard ware super easy.
remove air cleaner assembly. (remove nut from carb stud, valve cover near oil cap, and bolt form support bracket. then carefully flip the air cleaner assembly so the top rests on the driver side fender and master cylinder. now remove all nuts and bolts that hold the wire loom in place and throttle cable support bracket. remove the three valve cover bolts and lift vavle cover off.... you can do this without removing the spark plug wires or throttle cable. just takes some effort...
now its time to rotate engine so cylinder #4 is at TDC of compression stroke. so remove the coil to distributor cap wire. and have a friend crank the engine untill the intake and exhaust vavles are visibly closed. then check the cam lobe for the fuel pump... the pump push rod should be on the shortest part of the lobe. if not rotate engine till this is acomplished.
NOW REMOVE + BATTERY WIRE!!!! you will be working with your hands and tools very close to the starter. electricity and spilt fuel is a bad combonation.... please use common sense.
open the fuel door and remove the gas cap. this will relieve the pressure inside the tank. so you don't lose all your gas on the ground when you pull the hoses off the pump.
now go to the passanger front wheel well. disconnect all hoses form the pump. there is a small diaphram looking thing that the hose from the tank goes through. i'm guessing its a back flow preventor the bolt to remove that is just abouve the engine mount.. remove the two nuts that hold the EGR pipe to the underside of the intake manifold. follow the small hardline coming out of the EGR adapter to a rubber hose, once the rubber hose is located disconnect it. now pull down the EGR pipe so you can easily see the pump mounting nuts. now to reach the pump mounting nuts i used three to four wobble extensions that i bought at harbor freight for $10. if you use a 3/8" ratchet with a couple long extensions and use a reducer at the end to use a 1/4" extension then a 12mm socket. this will ease with getting at the nut towards the front of the engine. now remove the old pump, spacer and gaskets. if you wiggle the pump out as far as you can. get the left side of the pump off the stud and swing it down and towards the front of the engine it will be easy gettting it off the other stud.
now use the new gaskets and spacer to reinstall. have a buddy hold the push rod all the way against the camshaft. and put the new pump on. and put everything back together. remember to make sure all fuel lines are tight and still in good shape. if they are questionable just replace em... its already easy to get to and fuel hose for carbed vehicles is cheap. hell i went to the local checker/ shucks/ kragen auto parts and got 28 inches of fuel hose and they just gave it to me free. thats why i always go back to them for my parts. also remember to put some RTV silicone on the corners of the hump for the cam and on the corners of the plug in the back of the head. once everything is back to gether start the engine and check for oil and fuel leaks..... if it won't start double check all your plug/ coil wires and fuel hoses and battery terminal. remember also that all the fuel that was in the line from the pump to the carb is not there anymore so your going to have to crank for a little while. if it starts and runs like $#!T don't be too surprised the pump needs to get broken in.... if it keeps running bad for more than about 5 minutes double check all your vaccuum lines that might have come off during the removal of the air cleaner assembly.
before i installed my pump i put on an inline pressure gauge. with the old pump the needle would go from 6 psi to 0 really really really fast. now with the new pump it stays really constant at 4-6 psi. ok well i'm sorry that this is such a long right up but heck if it'll help out someone else then it was all worth while. so good luck to all those that will tackle this project. also for all those that read this if i missed something or you have something to add go ahead the more information the better.
by the way gotta give a shout out to jerry thanks for the tips... took about 2 hours just like you said.