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My 98 Amigo/02 RS, "The Meego"

68K views 316 replies 29 participants last post by  egagnon086 
#1 ·
Heres the initial pic of my Amigo. Lookin forward to cranking the T-bars and taking a shot at uwharrie in it.
 

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#227 · (Edited by Moderator)
egagnon086 said:
Went for a drive in the N. Ga woods last weekend. It was a blast, Just me a older Toyota truck made it. It had some tricky trails. I'll have to add it to my normal route in the mtns for sure. I got some pics, some posted below, and videos that I'll post on you tube after some editing for length.

Near Suches GA
gulley%203%20%28577x1024%29.jpg
Hey, that doesn't look like "easy forest roads". :shock: :shock: :lol:

Glad you had fun. Meego looks like it survived without any major damage. Always good.
 

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#228 ·
Well the first 26 mila through cooper gap were easy neither me or the following taco need 4wd. But since we it was only us we decided to attempt this "goat path" of a road. We both had lockers but he didn't have enough clearance to get up some of the ledges. You would of been fine if you had those 4.30d with the LSD.
 
#229 ·
egagnon086 said:
So I got my HD lower links installed and adjusted, the oems were a pain to get off, had to visit Jerry and use his 3/4 drive impact.

Here are my new HD greaseable and adj lower links.
View attachment 2

All links installed with adj, track bar:
View attachment 1

Also, I got some 2" wheel spacers to play with, may try out some 315/75s
When they say adjustable... when would you adjust them and why?
 
#230 ·
Adjust for proper pinion angle on the rear diff, helps keep drivetrain noise down with this much lift. And the track bar adjustment is to get the rear axle back under the truck straight so I'm not dog legged on the back. As you lift, if you don't drop the track bar mount or lengthen the bar the rear wheels will want to go to the passenger side.
 
#231 ·
i just found this link to your build , i really only look at suspension stuff as thats all we share so i just stumbled in here .
really great reading, hope you were ok after that roll, how did it happen?
i see you have calmini uca's. can you tell me definatively what they have achieved for you? you also have hd t/bars, do you tend to lift a wheel a bit more with them than before?

good stuff
dennis
 
#232 ·
Thanks Dennis, I'd say the roll came from excessive speed over rough terrain, ending up with the truck bouncing and finally rolling on its roof. I learned my lesson, "slow as possible, fast as necessary".

The Calmini UCAs really just lower the Ball joint from the where the oems are, Id say you could do the same thing with the oem UCA, flipping the balljoint to the bottom, and adding a .5" spacer to it. It does require substantial amount of shims to get it aligned, even when the T-bars are cranked for ride height. Also If you do get them, you must modify them before install to accept a grease fitting, the poly bushings require grease to not stick and wallow out. Also the use of petro grease deteriorates them, I use pure silicone grease. I swapped bushings and started using the "super grease" brand silicone, stopped the squeaking I was getting. They also send a lot more vibes into the truck, they don't absorb shock as well as the oem rubber bushings.

As for lifting a wheel, it takes a lot to lift a wheel actually. I have done it on occasion, but its when I'm driving over a large "ditch". The poly bushings I thing are more responsive (they allow better movement) than the oem control arms, on the front and back. The wheel falls into dips easily, Also the fact that I don't run and "sway bars". I usually have all my wheels on the ground all the time, the lockers help it push itself up also.

My next adventure into this rig is install a set of Revo, 3:1 gears in the TC, and maybe trying another rear locker. And maybe some bigger tires, or just Mud terrains. I've yet to find a place I couldn't get that I actually wanted too.
 
#233 · (Edited by Moderator)
I went on a little runabout in the Oconee National Forest near my house. Its alittle over 30 mins away. Miles of old forest road, on this outing I didn't see another person or car for the entire 3.5 hrs I was tooling around the forest. Its not very exciting but it is a great place to get away and enjoy the woods.

I did find what I thought was a official "detour because one of the forest roads were blocked. But it turned out it wasn't even completed, It was marked with "Blazes" like most trails. I only realized it went to no where after I got to a big pile of dirt about .5 mile into the wilderness. I ended up turning around and made full use of my lockers to get my rig out.

Here is are some pics on a nice pine road.
small 1.jpg


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Also, there was this cool creek crossing that helped wash all the mud off, I bet it is super fun to cross after it rains.
small 3.jpg
 

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#236 ·
I think they are 7055s, I'll have to crawl underthere and verify. They are just the old style hydro shocks. I'm actually in the market for some newer shocks if you want them Lil a. Just let me know I'd let you have all 4 for the price of shipping.
 
#238 ·
I think I have 7052 in front and 7055 in back.
 
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#240 ·
I think the fronts I had to shave off the lower mount bushing abit to fit the bracket. I cant remember on the back. They will support a 4" lift, but unless you have a rear upper driver side bent link you won't get full travel on that side. The upper link will hit the gas tank at around 3"-4"s. So be weary, also your rear brake line from the frame to the axle will be too short, you'll need a new one of those that's longer or a bracket made up.

Nice looking ride. I dont really know what snow feels like under my tires. I'd really hate to find out how bad lockers are in snow.
 
#243 ·
:twisted: Love the MEEGO. Put picture of it on my Desktop. Looken super.Like the bumpers setup. Sits alittle higher than my Rodeo.
 
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#244 · (Edited by Moderator)
Just had a blast of a weekend wheeling trip, See post here for more info and pics: viewtopic.php?f=9&t=101842

But here are some of the glamour shots:
IMG_3520.JPG

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#245 ·
I'm planning on installing my Revo gears here coming up, I'm trying to clear my schedule to get it done before Uwharrie. But I've been tempted to attempt the gear swap there at the campsite.

I also have a rear locker to install while im at it..
 
#246 · (Edited by Moderator)
Well, I've been working on some nagging maintenance items, I've had a small oil leak from the valve covers, so I changed those out. And I've had this rear locker sitting on my shelf for awhile so I had time decided to swap that in aswell. Here are some pics of my weekend of oily mess.

VC first
IMG_20170325_162953.jpg


Half done
IMG_20170325_171130.jpg


I did the driverside but didn't take pics, its a pain with a lot more "stuff" in the way. Takes 3 hands to shoehorn it in there without dropping the gasket off.

I started the Rear locker install the next morning:

Remove the axles, To do this first chock front wheels lift rear end, removed the wheels and brakes, including the caliper bracket. Then remove the Diff cover to drain, I removed my track bar because it was in the way at this point. Unbolt the brake backing plate the slide the axle out.
IMG_20170402_140631.jpg

This one was a pain as the small spot weld broke as I was loosening the nut, I had to reach in there with my trusty HF welder and tack it back in place to bust the nut loose.
Repeat for opposite side axle.
Now remove the bearing caps, be careful to mark them for side and orentiation, don't want to mix these up. Remove the carrier, its heavy. DONT DROP IT!
IMG_20170402_140637.jpg
 

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#247 · (Edited by Moderator)
Next clean the carrier with cleaner and mark the ring gear, I also marked the bolts so I could put them back where they were. I used a small brass dowel and a hammer to tap the ring gear off after I unbolted it. I then did the same to the roll pin on the cross shaft. Next I used the same technique to tap the side gears on one side to rotate the spider gear assembly. The side gears and thrust washer came out. The side gears came out easily after that.
IMG_20170402_140604.jpg

Clean some more, read instructions thoroughly
IMG_20170402_140615.jpg

You have to check locker gap to make sure its in spec.
IMG_20170402_142827.jpg

On these Zu D44s you have to remove the ring gear to install these lockers because the Ring gear is massive.
IMG_20170402_143905.jpg

After checking all things, reinstall carrier in truck, tighten the bearing caps down. Reinstall axles, backing plates, brakes, wheels. Follow the test in the book to the letter to test the locker is functioning correctly. You don't want to find out its bad once you drive off. I painted the cover just because and got it tested in a parking lot. This one only popped alittle at first, now its really smooth in turns.

A little different driving technique is needed, as any feathering of the clutch will tend to "unlock" it and when it reengages it can be "dramatic". In my testing I noticed I was smelling something sweet coming from under the hood. I thought maybe I left a snack under there or something. It turns out, my raditator is leaking at the top seam, same as the green amigo I had. So, I have a new radiator on the way with new hoses. I do a write up on that install next week.
 

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#248 ·
Good stuff.
Forgot you had a manual like I do.
When I ran my Aussie in the rear, you have to get used to clutching through turns more than usual or letting if stay in neutral longer.
It's the weirdest feeling when I finally got my ARB I was expecting the locker to push me around and now I'm so happy its out.
I loved it when it was in there for how it performs off road but going selectable is easier on my driveline overall.
You'll be amazed at how much more control you have offroad and force to get overstuff without struggling or finesse-ing the truck over stuff.
See ya soon dude.
 
#249 ·
Got my new radiator and hoses installed, Pretty easy and now no more leaks.

I was wondering if anyone has any thoughts on changing the engine clutch fan out for an electric fan. Any improvement to be had other than space under the hood.
 
#251 ·
From memory there is a ford taurus fan that 'fits' and that you can mount to the radiator flush and wire up to a switch.
up to you if you want to be able to run it off the battery or only when the key is turned.
I've seen this done and still had the motor fan as well.
only thing to keep an eye out for is which way you have the fan blades facing.

One thing I thought about awhile back is some auto Rodeos (and some second gens, iirc) have the fans on the front of the rad behind the grill.
I thought about pulling one of those from the yard and wiring it up.
Might be another option.
 
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