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Coil/Radius arm SAS 1st gen Trooper - fine tuning/new mods

219K views 833 replies 40 participants last post by  paulevans76 
#1 ·
I'd been scouring craigslist, ebay, and the planet since about October of last year for the right rig. Came close on a few, and go figure, all of them were out west. I just couldn't pull the trigger on shipping something across the country unless it was really justified. Then Jim's (RubyTrooper) 1991 trooper came on the market. I'd seen pics of it and read up on it previously and thought "that's the way I'd do an SAS if I had the time". So when it came on the market, although it was more than I'd ever paid for an Isuzu, the price barely covered the SAS and upgrade PARTS, not to mention time, nickel and dime stuff, and the rig itself. So coughing up another wad of dough to transport it from WA to NC would be just fine. I'm very busy with work these days, and I don't have the space for a full on build right now, either. I really just wanted to go wheeling again, and I needed something with room for the wife and kiddo. So not having to spend a year building something was worth the price on it's own.

I'm going to use this thread for documenting the changes, repairs, upgrades, and that sort of thing. I have a few things that need to get done ASAP, and a few ideas to really iron out the details on this already awesome trooper.

Enough chit chat, here's the pics:

Just outside Charlotte, where I finally got to see it in person (bought it without driving it, touching it, or even seeing it in person!)


Drove it about 200 miles home on Sunday. Hit 75mph and things felt OK! My driveway in Raleigh:

I actually have been driving it around a lot the past few days, but this morning it up and quit on me. I had starter and fuel, so I grabbed a new MSD blaster coil, replaced the old one, and was back in business before lunch. Glad it happened 2 houses down from mine, rather the 100 miles away.

The good stuff right there (D44 w/ 5.38's, OX locker)


Notched frame for steering clearance:


Rear D44 w/ detroit & boat anchor truss that I may remove most/part/all of:


Body lift, exhaust routing (both of which will probably change)


In the backyard getting prepped for rear spring swap:

The stock leaf packs are dead beat. With the detroit in the rear, It compresses the pass side suspension on acceleration. I'm going to try using the OME HD dakar leaf packs for 1st gen IFS 4runners. These are roughly the same dimensions as the stockers, but will be closer to the stock 'zu arch. I don't want any more lift than stock packs, and these are about +2" on toyotas which should put me in that range.

Other stuff I'll be doing over the next few weeks/months:

- Bumpstops all around
- Limit straps up front to keep the driveshaft from binding
- Potentially an anti-wrap bar in the back if the new springs don't control it well enough
- Work on a permanent fix for the fricking 2.8 exhaust leaks
- Round headlight grill swap
- Get the E brakes hooked up and working

Further down the road:

- Reduce body lift. IMO, it's wholly unnecessary to have a 3" BL with the SAS. It was on there pre-SAS. Reducing it will require extensive reworking of other stuff, e.g., sliders, exhaust routing, shifters, gas tank lift, etc. I really don't like excessive lift when it's not needed. I like to keep 'em as low as possible to fit the tires through the suspension cycle. The SAS is probably as low as it can be without sacrificing uptravel (and there's only 3-4" currenly). I'll probably reduce the BL to 1-1.5" in order to keep the gas tank tucked up a little bit, and also keep things a little easier to get to when doing maintenance/repairs.
- Bigger tires! The current 35's have nearly 100% tread, so I can't justify going bigger just yet. When I do, I'll probably switch to 10" wide wheels for a little extra track width, and also throw in some inner-tube style inner beadlocks.
- Complete the OBA system. there's a tank and plumbing already there, just need a compressor.
- 3.4!!!!!!!!!!! The 5.38's make a big difference, but it doesn't change the fact that I'm probably putting less than 100hp to the ground in a 7' tall, 4000+lb brick. Mild build plans, just the typical mid range cam, bigger TBI & bored intake, get the heads flowing as best I can, and really just try to keep it reliable. I'd rather it start and run trouble free every time and have 160 hp than be broken down half the time with 200.
- Chromo bits for the axles
- Winch
- Rear bumper
- Armrests - lol, the one thing I hated about these things (the non-LS or RS models). I'll be trying to find LS/RS front and rear seats in the classifieds/boneyards

Anyway, hope to see a lot of yall out on the trails over the next few years! It's been too long :mrgreen:

Index:

Pg 1: Intro, lofty goals, rear 4runner Dakar OME leaves, front RE 3.5" lift coils, 1.5" wheel spacers all around
Pg 2: ECGS work - front driveshaft, limit straps, etc
Pg 3: "Round-eyes" grill/headlight swap
Pg 5: Distributor saga
Pg 6: Corbeau Baja RS reclining suspension front seats installed
Pg 8: GM jounce style front bumpstops installed
Pg 9: URE wheelin', sliding center console armrest
Pg 10: 37" Pitbull Rocker radials and interco birddog wheels
Pg 11: RCV's installed (by MetalWerx)
Pg 12: Big Creek wheelin'
Pg 14: Warn winch w/ synthetic line, URE wheelin'
Pg 15: MetalWerx built swing out tire carrier rear bumper, General Grabber X3 tire release event @ URE, Trooper in General promo video, broken shock mount fun, Bilstein 51xx series shocks
Pg 16: 3.4 swap saga begins
 
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7
#502 · (Edited by Moderator)
paulevans76 said:
Got the little cam cover thing off and I received the new gasket set - thankfully including the needed gasket - which is cork with little crush washers. Had to use a lot of elbow grease to get all the rtv and funk off of the cover.

I looked through my FSM V6 supplement and couldn't find a torque spec on it, but considering it's 10mm bolts and just a cover, I'm assuming it's going to be around 15-20 lb-ft. I'm going to pull the one off the old 2.8 and see if there's any RTV on it or if it's just gasket to make sure I do it correctly. After it's on, I'll prime the oil pump and bring up the pressure and see if anything else leaks before manhandling the trans back into place.

Then, we feast (on gasoline).
For future reference the torque spec is actually 7.5ftlbs. I found this website which has been a saving grace when it comes to torque specs on this motor: http://www.torkspec.com/torkspecme.aspx ... L-171ci-V6

Also I use this stuff on all of my engine gaskets minus the exhaust and head gaskets:
ptx-80062_ml.jpg
 

Attachments

#503 ·
You are the man! Thanks for that! I'm bookmarking that page. Awesome.

And of course, I assumed I could still find my RTV...anti-seize, dielectric grease, thread locker, etc etc is all right at hand, but the RTV has walked off somewhere. I think I used it last on my front diff cover, and that was last year. Figures. I'll grab a can of that stuff.

I pulled the cam cover and chipped off some of the gasket from my 2.8 on the stand, and it looks like cork in the middle, with the crush washer things, and the remnants of what was likely RTV which had hardened but was still somewhat pliable. So I have my game plan - just gotta get the sealant and get on it.
 
#504 ·
If I remember right the torque was like 30, not much more than snug. I put one on with no sealer and it was seeping pretty good after 10K when I pulled the trans. The last time I lightly coated it and so far nothing has dripped on that end. I have never seen this gasket in rubber, just the cork with the brass inserts. I would not even call them crush washers. Hope to hear this thing is up and running very soon.
 
#505 ·
Cam cover, flywheel, clutch done yesterday; trans in tonight. Took about 4 hrs solo. Just me, 3 jack stands, 2 ratchet straps, and my floor jack. I'm BEAT.
 
#506 ·
Hopefully the stabbing of the trans went ok. It is a bugger by yourself, I know. Next step is go get it fired up and check for leaks!
 
#507 ·
Before I put the flywheel on, I got the oil pressure up to full psi for a few minutes via the pump under the diz and no leaks. Did that a few times. If it leaks now, it's just gonna leak, because there's no way I'm going to pull that trans back off any time soon :lol:

Starter and flywheel seem to be pretty well meshed.

Forgot to put on the dust cover when I installed the trans though! So that was extra time today. Got the rest of the crossmember bolts in and pulled the starter, installed dust cover, installed starter (for the billionth time). Connected the little bit of wiring for the trans. Still need to put oil in the trans, install shifters, connect speedo cable, torque output nuts, and then I can install driveshafts.

But before driveshafts I need to put the exhaust back on.

Then:
Reinstall the distributor
Reinstall some stuff on the grill and zip tie that bad boy back on :blackeye:
Should probably put on a new fuel filter
Crank, set timing
Break in cam
Drive 500 miles
Change oil
Drive to Uwharrie
Go 4-Wheelin'

Probability of the last two isn't quite 0, but it's a tall order!
 
#510 ·
The Ever Growing Ever Loving List
  • Oil in case[/*]
  • install shifters[/*]
  • connect speedo cable[/*]
  • torque tcase output nuts[/*]
  • install exhaust (halfway done)[/*]
  • install driveshafts[/*]
  • Reinstall the distributor[/*]
  • Grill stuff[/*]
  • fuel filter[/*]
  • Set timing[/*]
  • Break in cam[/*]
  • Grease RCV's[/*]
  • Check wheel bearings[/*]
  • Install rear bumpstops[/*]
  • Break in engine (Drive 500 miles)[/*]
  • Change oil[/*]
  • Pack campin/wheelin stuff[/*]
  • Drive to Uwharrie[/*]
  • Go 4-Wheelin'[/*]
 
#511 ·
You are making progress!
 
#512 ·
Somehow I'm pretty sure you'll have yours running before mine lol

I'm spacing out part of the projects to keep cost down per paycheck withdraw :) Atleast most of it is just time and function related it's those headgaskets /headbolt , turbo parts (and fic) that's gonna hurt !!

I pray that the rest of your required assemblies go off without a hitch ... Being a dad and trying to build a rig ain't easy ..
 
#513 ·
The Ever Growing Ever Loving List
  • Oil in case[/*]
  • install shifters[/*]
  • connect speedo cable[/*]
  • torque tcase output nuts[/*]
  • install exhaust[/*]
  • Grill stuff[/*]
  • fuel filter[/*]
  • install driveshafts[/*]
  • Reinstall the distributor[/*]
  • Set timing[/*]
  • Break in cam[/*]
  • Grease RCV's[/*]
  • Check wheel bearings[/*]
  • Install rear bumpstops[/*]
  • Bleed clutch[/*]
  • Bleed power steering[/*]
  • Break in engine (Drive 500 miles)[/*]
  • Change oil[/*]
  • Pack campin/wheelin stuff[/*]
  • Drive to Uwharrie[/*]
  • Go 4-Wheelin'[/*]

May get the driveshafts and RCV's done later this evening
 
#514 ·
Went after the distributor for an hour. I am so mad that I reused the hard coolant lines on the back of the block. Shoulda just ran hoses all the way so they wouldn't be in the way when trying to get that STUPID distributor hold down bolt in. Good God. If I'd have done that, I'd be done with it, instead of cussing loud enough for the rest of the neighborhood to hear me. It's one of those things you just gotta fiddle with blindly and with your fingertips while the rest of your hand and arm are being ripped to shreds until you get lucky and it starts to thread in. Bah!
 
#515 ·
Yup that distributor bolt is a huge pain to get the bolt in and the lockwasher at the same time. And then when you have it set and tighten it up the darn thing will move just a tiny bit. I ran a tiny wire under the lockwasher to keep it on the bolt. It goes better if you have the hood off also. Get a swivel socket, that helps to tighten it up. Almost there!
 
#516 ·
paulevans76 said:
Went after the distributor for an hour. I am so mad that I reused the hard coolant lines on the back of the block. Shoulda just ran hoses all the way so they wouldn't be in the way when trying to get that STUPID distributor hold down bolt in. Good God. If I'd have done that, I'd be done with it, instead of cussing loud enough for the rest of the neighborhood to hear me. It's one of those things you just gotta fiddle with blindly and with your fingertips while the rest of your hand and arm are being ripped to shreds until you get lucky and it starts to thread in. Bah!
Jeebus, I don't even have the same motor, but I feel like I've been there. As long as you don't kick the dog or yell at the kids! :blackeye:
 
#517 ·
I just yelled to the empty garage :blackeye:

hessmess, I don't think I ever had a lock washer on this or the old engine :shock:

Usually I've got an extend-o magnet holding the 'hold down' fork thingy in place while I fiddle with the bolt. I was underneath snaking my arms up around the trans, going at it from the side through the fender, from the top... ugh. Then inevitably they both fall down, one piece going this way, one piece going that way, or one/the other/both getting hung up somewhere seemingly impossible. Anyway. I will go swivel socket this time once I have it in place. Just getting it started in the hole is the hardest part and was denied for an hour last night. Once I get that this afternoon, it's awn! Petrol will burn!
 
#518 ·
After you mentioned no lock washer I realized you were right. My mind is getting old and feeble I guess. So what I did was to use the little wire to keep the hold down and bolt together. One less thing to fall apart. I just wound the wire around the thread under the hold down. And I mean a tiny wire, like the size of one wire in the telephone wire. It is copper and just smashed down I guess. I hope it fires right up today!
 
#519 ·
The Ever Growing Ever Loving List
  • Oil in case[/*]
  • install shifters[/*]
  • connect speedo cable[/*]
  • torque tcase output nuts[/*]
  • install exhaust[/*]
  • Grill stuff[/*]
  • fuel filter[/*]
  • install driveshafts[/*]
  • Reinstall the distributor[/*]
  • Set timing[/*]
  • Break in cam[/*]
  • Grease RCV's[/*]
  • Check wheel bearings[/*]
  • Install rear bumpstops[/*]
  • Bleed clutch[/*]
  • Bleed power steering[/*]
  • Break in engine (Drive 500 miles)[/*]
  • Change oil[/*]
  • Pack campin/wheelin stuff[/*]
  • Drive to Uwharrie[/*]
  • Go 4-Wheelin'[/*]

Pulling the coil and egr thingy off made the diz hold down a lot easier to get down. Hate to have wasted time when I could have done that all along :blackeye:

Trying to find that dang special synth grease for the RCV's....
 
#520 ·
save the greasing for at the campground and jack up the axle, take off the tires, rotate and feel how much pressure you have rotating.
This may get you ahead two hops onto other things related to the engine.
I hear ya you want to check those, but the front shouldn't turn unless its in 4wd and hubs are turned, so you can check those later.
The bearings i totally understand you want to check before heading out putting a lot of miles on them, but a 'feeler' test will prove whether you need to adjust preload.
Unless you think they are pitted and shot!
We can put in those bump stops in the campground too

just trying to save you some time Mr. Paul!!
Keep at it.
I've been there too!!!
Fighting the Clock.
 
#521 · (Edited by Moderator)
The Ever Growing Ever Loving List
  • Oil in case[/*]
  • install shifters[/*]
  • connect speedo cable[/*]
  • torque tcase output nuts[/*]
  • install exhaust[/*]
  • Grill stuff[/*]
  • fuel filter[/*]
  • install driveshafts[/*]
  • Reinstall the distributor[/*]
  • Set timing - still need to fine tune[/*]
  • Break in cam[/*]
  • Grease RCV's[/*]
  • Check wheel bearings[/*]
  • Install rear bumpstops[/*]
  • Bleed clutch[/*]
  • Bleed power steering[/*]
  • Break in engine (Drive 500 miles)[/*]
  • Change oil[/*]
  • Pack campin/wheelin stuff[/*]
  • Drive to Uwharrie[/*]
  • Go 4-Wheelin'[/*]

Doesn't want to idle high enough when I first start it. Did get the cam broken in. Found a leak at an oil cooler hose connection, but I think I got it, it was just a little loose. Need to bleed the clutch! Pulled it out of the garage and mounted the Generals, and she's lookin' good in the sunshine!

IMG_20170426_200719.jpg


Power steering seems ok after topping it off, steering it back n forth, repeat, etc.

Gettin' there :mrgreen:
 

Attachments

#523 ·
Looking good out in the sunshine, I had forgotten about the SAS. Glad it is almost there.
 
#525 ·
chuffer said:
Fookin Awesome.

Who is behind the wheel?
I believe that's my 5 year old, Ben. Likely also the one who thought the cig lighter would be a good spot for a bolt to hide :D glad it didn't make contact with the 'hot' or I'd have other issues to deal with!

hessmess said:
Looking good out in the sunshine, I had forgotten about the SAS. Glad it is almost there.
Me too!

bradzuzu said:
I forgot high high it sat , kinda helps me think and decide on mine !!

Looks almost ready , keep at it buddy !!
Too tall. Was really hoping to get to the BL reduction, but that's a couple weeks of extra tinkering that I can't afford right now. Soon though! But really that's the only wiggle room I have in the height department without changing 200 things in the steering/suspension.

Gonna bleed the clutch and hope that I didn't screw any of the TO bearing/shift fork/etc stuff up. Then pop on the shift boots and go for a spin.
 
#526 ·
The Ever Growing Ever Loving List
  • Oil in case[/*]
  • install shifters[/*]
  • connect speedo cable[/*]
  • torque tcase output nuts[/*]
  • install exhaust[/*]
  • Grill stuff[/*]
  • fuel filter[/*]
  • install driveshafts[/*]
  • Reinstall the distributor[/*]
  • Set timing[/*]
  • Break in cam[/*]
  • Grease RCV's[/*]
  • Check wheel bearings[/*]
  • Install rear bumpstops[/*]
  • Bleed clutch[/*]
  • Bleed power steering[/*]
  • Break in engine (Drive 500 miles) - workin' on it[/*]
  • Change oil[/*]
  • Pack campin/wheelin stuff[/*]
  • Drive to Uwharrie[/*]
  • Go 4-Wheelin'[/*]

Got the shift boots on, hood on, timing set (for now), took it for a spin. Power is better for sure. So many exhaust leaks haha :blackeye:

The throttle is a bit sticky initially easing into it, so it's a little jerky taking off, backing up, and getting back on the gas.

Also, getting into reverse is a bit grindy, sorta like before, but now I can feel it actually straining the engine a bit in gear - like if I put it in reverse and leave the clutch in with no throttle, it will try to die on me. So I gotta figure out how to get the clutch to totally disengage somehow. It engages just off the floor, and seems like if I could push it down another inch, it would be better. Any suggestions? I don't remember this being a new clutch issue.
 
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