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Reviving the M715, Chevy 350/700r4, Ford 390/T18/NP205

139K views 670 replies 14 participants last post by  Von 
#1 · (Edited by Moderator)
I finally put up a privacy fence to keep the city inspectors out of my bidness. Charged up the batteries on the M715 and crawled her into the back yard.

Poor old girl... Kept dying at idle so I locked the throttle at a fast idle and put it in 4low.

I got the front clip off, pulled the seats and took the battery box out of the cab. Started pulling the wiring harness loose. I'm going to rewire the whole truck, I've got 100' of 10 ga and 600' of 12 ga in various pretty colors, new crimper and stripper... ready to rock and roll...
I forgot to take a pic with the front clip off.. I need to get some.. show the old Tornado in all it's glory.

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The transmission dude in Alvarado called and said my 700r4 is ready. I'll run down there next week and get it. .. Funny. A guy at work gave me his number. He's used a dozen of this guy's 4l60's and never a problem. And the farmers he's installing them for use the crap out of them. This guy does 90% of the work in his shop, one part time helper does the other 10%.
So i called him up to tell him what I needed and see when he could get to it... I wasn't even asking about price. He kept asking me questions so he could give me an accurate quote and we were kinda pissing each other off... I'm a little deaf so I piss people off on the phone anyway... So finally I said "Dude, I don't need an accurate quote. You build them yourself, right? Not a bunch of teenagers throwing sockets at each other when you turn your back? And your high quote was $200 cheaper than the sleeze bags that sell leaky crap around here. I'm sold. When can I bring you all my crap so you can build what I need?"

The FedEx and UPS Santas have been dropping a steady stream of parts off all week. Most are pretty boring... Throttle valve and throttle cables and brackets, battery cable ends, trans cooler, B&M torque converter lockup kit, fuel pump (went with the Carter)(I was too cheap for the Holley), all new gauges, fuel sender... SHINY new cold air breather like thus : http://www.ebay.com/itm/390711520191?_t ... EBIDX%3AIT
I'll rattle can it black or OD.
I had a chrome breather like that on my Trooper. Flows great and won't get in the way if I'm fiddling with the distributor.

But today I got THIS in...

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Winters Sidewinder shifter... commonly known as BAD ***... ( <-- what the what? I been bleeped...)
I'm sure my wife will be a lot more impressed with it IN the truck than she was with it in my lap on the couch while I shifted through the gears...

I originally planned on going with one from American Shifter or Lokar that looks like a 4 speed stick and uses the stock shifter location, because I want to stay dual battery and was going to keep the battery box in the cab between the seats... But I kept reading that those shifters aren't very rugged, the button sticks after a while... and I could tell my step sons it's an automatic and NOT a real 4 speed all day long... but the first thing either of them would do when they got in was go "oh cool.. 4 speed!" and immediately grab the shifter, go for neutral and swing it side to side.. and those shifters don't move like that..

So I went with the Winters... I'll have to get creative with the passenger side fender well and make a new box for the batteries there. That'll save me some battery cable too. One of the guys at the Zone showed how he notched a fender well out for a battery tray, I'll do something similar.

I want to put all the electrical crap (fuse block and relays) under the hood. I'm looking for some kind of enclosure to put it all in. Maybe 8"x12"x2" with a hinged lid... maybe a little bigger. Water resistant. Not water PROOF... I've gotten as close to fording as I want to in that thing...
I did some googling and saw the water proof relay boxes and fuse block enclosures... but I'm thinking $20.. not $200..
I'll probably go with one of those power strip enclosures for the patio.. or an ammo can... or a small tackle box.. or a plastic pencil box from the school supply isle...
 

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#2 · (Edited by Moderator)
This weekend I pulled the engine and transmission. Finished puling the wiring harness out. Dropped the fuel tank and replaced the sender with a new 12v sender....

That Tornado is a crazy engine... just a few little changes and they could have done amazing things with it. One of the guys at the Zone put the head off one on the flow bench, he said it flowed as well as new high performance heads.

The intake really blows my mind. The first pic is the exhaust side... look at those big honkin exhaust ports!

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Intake side... 2 itty bitty intake ports.. each feeding 3 cylinders..
The 2 horizontal ports are where the coolant exits the engine.

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The truck came with a 30,000 BTU heater from an M35 bolted to the firewall... not from the factory, another field mod. But they still used the factory duct work inside. The 350 is too wide, gotta move the heater inside the cab.

I pulled the heater and the inside duct work last month and tried to figure out a way to mate the two... not meant to be.
BUT I found a heater/defrost diverter from an M35 on ebay! I think they are supposed to have a reducer on the heater to go from 6" output to 4"intake on the diverter... but mine doesn't have that. During the field mod they plugged the big 6" output and cut a hole in the side of the box to match a hole they cut in the firewall.

I'm going to cut a 4" hole in the plug they made and use a dryer vent coupling, 4" vent hose from the heater to the diverter.

This picture is upside down. I don't know why.

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I needed to switch the blower from 24v to 12v. Turns out.. if you use 1/4" rubber spacer... the fan from a 65 Fairlane is a perfect fit! The wheel on the Fairlane fan is a bit wider than the M35 fan. The spacer evened it up.

Working Mon - Wed , then off a week.. hope to drive it out of the back yard by the 26th...
 

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#3 ·
Subscribed! While I have no input, I really enjoy seeing something like this come together. That is a tough timeline, the 26th.
 
#4 ·
hessmess said:
Subscribed! While I have no input, I really enjoy seeing something like this come together. That is a tough timeline, the 26th.
All these things. Plus personal vestment. Cheering for ya bud.
 
#5 ·
Thanks guys... moral support, I love it.

hessmess said:
That is a tough timeline, the 26th.
Beneath this cranky, bitter exterior lies the heart of an optimist. After i wrote that I remembered I'll need to take the yoke from the 700r4 and the old T98/NP200 jack shaft to the shop and have them joined... soon as I mock the engine and trans up and get some measurements.

I want to get the heater installed and some of the wiring done before installing the engine... and notch a fender well for batteries.

And I'm selling old parts at the Zone. It'll take a full day to package and ship the parts I've sold... AND the GTP was overheating on the way home last night. I guess it's developed a small coolant leak and I didn't catch it. Ran it dry... idiot. I'd be throwing a fit if one of the boys did that. I pulled over and called the big one to bring me some jugs of water.

The inside of the radiator cap had some orange DexCool sludge on it... yuck. This morning it did fine but I could see the temp gauge fluctuating a lot .. and not in conjunction with engine load or speed. Seemed kinda random. I think there's a bunch of DexGoop floating around in the system. need to flush it and address the leak issue. BUT there's no coolant in the oil... <-- bright side, right there.

I was going to run to Alvarado and get my trans Friday... may be doing the Uhaul thing again.

So i haven't said anything to my wife about my target date... don't want to get her hopes up. She is NOT happy about all the yard art back there.

Crap! AND I need to get us started on getting passports. She informed me the other day that there is a tropical vacation in her future this year... I'm invited. But either way, she's going!
 
#6 ·
Some folks excel when operating with in a timeline. Good luck! But there is no way I would miss the tropical vacation!
 
#7 · (Edited by Moderator)
Yeah, not gonna make the deadline. Spent the weekend in Coppell for a memorial for Uncle Dee.

Sorry, gotta talk about Dee for a sec. Fred Dee Hoyt. He IS the coolest dude I've ever met in my life, just a really great guy. He wasn't really my uncle, he lived with my wife's step Dad's sister... LOL, almost step uncle by marriage.

I started to go on about him and some of the stories I heard from his buddies in the guitar sales business... but it was going to be 5 or 6 paragraphs...
If you're a musician or just like guitars... google Dee. And Mudge Miller. Holy Smokes, Mudge is a hoot... I don't know how much is out there about them. Whatever is out there is just the tip of the iceberg.

Anyway, today is the first chance I've had this vacation to really do anything with the truck.

I got the heater box and diverter in.

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Not quite enough room to get the hose on there good... may ditch the dryer hose that I had laying around and get some other, more pliable hose.. The defrost cable that's in the truck is too long to be a good fit, but too short to loop it around... and a little rusty inside. I'll do some measuring and lubing, if i get the cable moving smooth I'll try cutting it down.

Then I moved on to the fender well battery tray... I want to put both batteries in there together.
I started with this... you can see where I measured and marked.. then remeasured and remarked... then measured a few more times... then just started cutting. Both batteries together have a foot print of 11.5 x 14.
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Initial cutting done. There is miles of room between the tires and the fender wells...

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At first I cut the bottom out of the stock battery box, it has a couple of raised ribs for the batteries to sit on. But I didn't like all the rust that was starting there... tossed it and started cutting on the battery box lid.

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Cutting, tracing, cutting, measuring, cutting...

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There's the pieces sitting in place, nothing but luck holding it together. In the morning I'll weld it up. The tray is still a couple of inches too long. After welding up the rest I'll cut it down to the required 11.5 .... maybe I'll set the batteries in to make sure first..

The grinder I was using... I bought it at a sidewalk sale at harbor Freight for 9.99 and I'm using the thin cutting wheels. That is the handiest little dude in my tool box. Love that thing..

I had to knock off about 3... ribeyes were thawed out and everybody comes rolling in about 4 or 5 sniffing for food after work... I'd make a great househusband. (WOW... Chrome's spellcheck recognized househusband... but not ribeyes or spellcheck)
 

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#8 · (Edited by Moderator)
The transfer case shifters and parking brake lever were mounted on a backing plate that was mounted on the old T98. I'll need to make a frame/bracket/thingy for the 700r4 for them to mount to. I just realized I forgot to take plenty of pics of that arrangement before I took it apart...
This is what I have now.

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I think that will be the hardest part of this swap.

I found something to put my fuse block and relays in. I saw this thing waving to me from a shelf at Home Depot..

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I've got a 6 fuse block, 1 80 amp relay for 2nd battery isolation/charging, probably run the headlights through relays.. Maybe one for the horn, haven't decided yet.

Horn wiring always trips me up. The stock horn was always hot, 24v straight off the batteries, and circuit was completed by grounding through the horn button.
I saved the GMC horns off the donor truck, they were grounded through the mount and powered by 12v from the horn button.

I haven't scoped out the horn button yet, don't really want to tear it up. Don't know if I can run 12v through it and use it for the GM horns. may just use a ******* aux horn button...

errr duhh ... ground a horn relay through the horn button.... tard.

and I'm gonna rewire the whole truck... burn baby burn..

I kinda liked the Jeep Beep from the stock horn, if I could pull 24v off the batteries I'd just keep it.
 

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#9 ·
So far this month I've burned 2 weeks of vacation to work on the truck and got about 4 short days of time in on it.

Yesterday I did some more work on the battery tray. the feed on my wire welder is not cooperating, had to break out the old Lincoln and the crappy old rods that haven't been stored properly... yeah, I'll blame it on old rods. I'm way out of practice. weld, grind, burn holes, weld holes, grind, weld, grind, plug more holes... 20 years ago when I was welding a lot I could have knocked the whole thing out in 1.5 hours... and it would have looked good too.
As soon as I find a way to hide my welds I'll post pics. It looks pretty good from a distance.

Pulled all the control cables from under the dash and swapped the defrost cable to the choke position, it'll work on the heater diverter there.. Still need to fix that hose situation... think I'll get under there with a saw and trim those input and output ports down.

LOL, there's so much to do that if i get tired of looking at one section or hit a speed bump I can move to something else for a bit while I think the other part through. But the other day I worked on 4 sections at once and didn't get a dang thing done on any of them...

replaced the steering coupler. old one had just a little bit of slack. I got a steering stabilizer for it too. Try to minimize the Death Wobble potential...

Power washed some of the mud and crud off.

Started on the wiring a little. Figured out where I want to mount the fuse/relay box, driver fender well. Put the fuse block and relays in and started the wiring on those. Took all the wrapping off the turn signal/brake light wiring in the cab, found the diagram for the Grote turn signal switch. I'll clean all that up and get it ready to tie into the box when I put the front clip back on.

I started to make a complete wiring diagram before I started... didn't work out. When my brain does work, it doesn't work like that. I'm making separate diagrams of all the bits and pieces. I have a vague big picture in my head of how it all ties together.... that's as close as I can get an actual plan.

part of it that's vague is the ignition. I LOVE the stock ignition switch.... but I know I should put a key on the thing somewhere... besides the one for the pad lock on the steering wheel chain. I guess I could get a cheap universal keyed switch but just use it for accessories and to pass ignition juice to the stock switch. that'll tick off others wanting to start it.... and that'll tickle me.
I am going to ditch the floor starter button. the levers for the PTO and rear axle disconnect are kinda in the way, hard to reach it with my foot (hurts my old knees to bend that way) and then I have to bend over to hit the starter (hurts my old back to bend that way). I've got a new starter button I'll mount on the dash.

A fella named jeephammer has some fantastic dual battery wiring diagrams up on some jeep forums. Google jeephammer or jeephammer wiring and there's a bunch of good links in his sig.
Gonna use some of his knowledge... dual batteries with primary isolated at startup, and a switch for self jump. because I like to self jump... and maybe go ahead and get the wiring set up for when I put my 12k winch on the truck. Got lots of relays, switches, starter relays... 700 feet of wire...
 
#10 ·
Years ago I put a 289 in a old 51 Willys pickup, completely rewired the thing with fuse boxes and step downs for the gauges. At least 700 feet of wire, and it all worked! It had a PTO winch and I kept that intact. To do that I had to keep the old T90 trans. I took the old heater out as it leaked and never put one in. That 289 ran warm enough to heat the cab and defrost the windows. I used an electric fan and that worked out ok also. This took me several years and 3 moves in 2 different states. It was an adventure and my first big job on a vehicle. I saw that truck about a month ago not 25 miles from my home. It is in someones back yard. I want to go take a picture of it as I never did when building. I like your plan, should be a solid vehicle!
 
#11 ·
Oh wow, I bet that was a cool ride! Get the pics! And the 289 is a great engine. It was sooo tempting to use the 289 in my Fairlane for this... but no. Original engine in the sport coupe, can't separate them.

I was doodling and planning the wiring at work and doing some research... found this page:
http://www.how-to-build-hotrods.com/hot-rod-wiring.html
Some great info! Between these guys and Jeephammer I hope to put together a bullet proof electrical system that will be trouble free for years. I already know the little 6 fuse block I have won't be enough. Will have to revise my plastic fuse box plan, maybe add a smaller one or two.
 
#12 ·
I found some more old evidence of motor pool slackers when I was taking the truck apart. Before I found old snickers wrappers inside the doors, 1 each, in both doors. inside the front end, below the headlights, I found an old crumpled up pack of Viceroy cigarettes. And when I hosed off the front clip I saw where someone had used the end of a tool or stick to mush the fins on the radiator and write a 4 letter word that starts with F... and it wasn't FART.

I took a pic but didn't know if anyone would be offended, so didn't post it. Wanted to, I thought it was kinda funny.
 
#14 ·
Nothing done on the truck this last weekend.

My wife went home for lunch Friday and found our house robbed, ransacked and trashed. They got all the TVs, laptops and electronics (no internets at my house right now). All our guns, some tools, my good welder and old cutting torch. Some family heirlooms and jewelry. A lot of my wife's clothes and shoes.... definitely a woman in the gang.

We're still finding stuff missing.

They needed trash cans, drawers and laundry baskets to carry all our stuff out so they dumped everything out. House was a mess, one end to the other... Looked like they'd put the house inside a big dryer and spun it around for a while.

Anyway, spent Friday night and the weekend cleaning and sorting. trying to inventory.

I'm off tomorrow and Friday, maybe I'll be able to get back on it.
 
#15 ·
Holy Crap man! Real sorry that happened. It is a fear here also. I have been working out of town for the past week so I was hoping to see some improvements. Hope they catch the rats, sounds like they make a living doing this. I keep thinking about signing up for those home security packages but I really don't trust them either.
 
#16 ·
It's getting worse here every year. Local news reported there's been 110 burglaries so far this year. They specified burglaries.. so i don't know if they're including the home invasions I keep hearing about. A knock at the door in the middle of the day or early evening, open the door and BAM. Pistol whipped and tied up.
I always let my dog help me answer the door. If we're home he has a mean bark and likes to rush the door. He's obviously not worth a bucket of dried snot if we're not home and somebody actually gets in though... worthless crumb snatching POS. I'm still pissed at him, he knows it too. He's been following me around with his head down and flashing his sad eyes... wanna knock him in the head so bad..

Yeah, I think I'll look into a security system. See if I can find something seasonably priced but effective. hard part is going to be getting idiots 1 and 2 to arm it when they leave the house. It took having the house trashed and their guns stolen to get them to lock the doors.
Maybe Simply Safe.

Insurance adjuster said they need proof of ownership for items they'll pay on. I know people who still have receipts, manuals and boxes for TVs they bought 10 years ago.. I'm not one of those. So now we're looking for manuals or remotes the thieves left behind or family pictures that might have our stuff in the background. I had a ton of pics on the computer... hard drive crapped out last year and lost all of that.

And we didn't have a separate rider for guns or jewelry, so $500 is the max they'll pay out on that.

Spent the morning taking pictures of EVERYTHING we have... I'll save those to google drive so I don't loose them.

ANYWAY.. been preoccupied. A few times I went out to work on the truck and just couldn't get motorvated..

I did get the front U joints changed out today and put the steering stabilizer on.... those don't require any heavy thinking.

Still planning wiring in my head. Got a second, smaller Husky box from Home Depot and getting 2 more of the little 6 fuse fuse panels. Don't need that many fuses but want to separate Acc, Always on and Ignition.
Big box is going on the driver fenderwell with Acc and Always on panels, and the horn relay. Little box will be on passenger side with Ign panel and 80 amp relay for battery isolation.

Using Jeephammer's dual battery with a winch setup I'll have 3 Ford starter relays.... trying to figure out where I'm putting those.

I was planning on relays for headlights, HEI power and fuel pump. But got to thinking... I'm running 10 and 12 gauge wire... all I'll gain from a relay is getting to run more wire, with the heavy gauge wire I'm already using I won't gain better power at the load. And I'd have more stuff to wear out on me later. Simpler is better.
The military harness was all 12 gauge (I think.. definitely heavy) and there wasn't a single fuse. 1 circuit breaker in the light switch. Closest thing to a relay it had was the solid state turn signal switch...
 
#17 ·
So last time I was here I was kinda busy i read "Nothing done on the truck this last weekend."...... That's a lot of scribble for no progress, I ain't got time for no progress...I'll come back.......

way to make me feel like a dick.

That **** sux bro. I haven't been thru a major robbery like that, had a small break in once....& partial loss from a fire. Nothing this hardcore, words don't express. I didn't think falls was getting that bad, I knew it had its ****y sides but nothing like spreading out this much.
 
#18 ·
-88- said:
way to make me feel like a dick.
LOL! really, I LOLled...

I need to stop littering this thread with non M715 related stuff... starting tomorrow.

I've had stuff stolen from me before but it was always one or two things here and there, quick snatch and runs. Nothing like this. Just knowing they had their hands on every single thing in the house.. literally everything.

After spending the rest of that day trying to clean and sort and put stuff up my wife and I went shopping for TVs and panties (all of her panties, all of the youngest boys undies and most of the oldest boys undies were gone.. I go commando, I was spared that part) And tooth brushes.
All our tooth brushes were there... but my wife just looked at them and said "what if they brushed their teeth? Or shaved? We could get hep C or AIDS!" I said "well they probably didn't clean up... but they might have stuck them up their butts.."

My wife isn't handling it well at all. I will end up buying another house and we'll move. She hates that house anyway and has been after me to sell it for a few years... I think this is her last straw. We paid the house off last year but I've been resisting moving.
1- I've lived there since 1988 and have a LOT of junk... I bought the house from my ex wife in 2002 so I wouldn't have to move my stuff.
2- I don't trust the management where I work. It's a big company, lots of plants world wide. The past 6 or 8 years they've shifted their focus to the overseas plants, sinking a ton of money into plants and equipment. And cutting back here in the US. No upgrading or replacing old equipment, lots of temps... Moving a lot of THIS plant's business (and some equipment) to plants in Mexico.. not feeling confident.

ANYway... I'll bite the bullet and start house shopping. Maybe we can find one we both like and I can get enough from our house so we'll have some equity when I loose my job.

Need to get the truck running to move our stuff.

Last of the non M715 posts... really.
 
#19 ·
No. Thread Jacks are a necessity, look at the greatest threads on the zoo. Dennis' space cab, Whitlock's white rodeo, the doinks of shaggy, Brad's Shakespearen build thread. They all veer off subject, this veers make us a closer family, they keep us in tune with one another's suffering & success....while the build is the common denominator....

Whitlock built this rodeo

that's cool, but....

Whitlock bought this vintage saw did this this this this & this to restore it. He sold that saw, to buy this & this for the rodeo, while this went to appease his wife.

that's in depth stuff that pulls us into the full life of the build...

Von built a cool 715.....

or

The building of Von's 715 was a Rollercoaster ride of awesome & tragedy.

first he had to battle his mighty wife to get it, then an epic struggle here & there....then someone broke in & stuck his toothbrush in their butt......then we found out Von goes comando, while buying TVs...
 
#20 ·
-88- said:
...then someone broke in & stuck his toothbrush in their butt....
there ya go! ... some pancakes for my eye holes... I hope my wife never reads this.
 
#21 · (Edited by Moderator)
Monday Tuesday and today I was a little productive.

Put on new thermostat housing and thermostat. Fuel pump blockoff plates. New electric choke pod for the carb.

Bolted the transmission to the engine and set it in the engine compartment to check out mounting options. There's another (actually several more) 350 transplants going on over at the M715zone. One of the guys is using Novak adapters to mount his 350 to the stock T98 and using their mounts on the stock mount perches. So I was checking that option out.
My exhaust manifolds won't work with the stock perches... can't find any chevy ram horn manifolds laying around.. and I'm not paying $220 for motor mounts.
So I chopped the stock perches off yesterday.

I kept the 85 Chevy mounts and unbolted the perches from that frame before I hauled the donor truck off.

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Then I took my trusty $9.99 grinder with cutting blade and chopped those up! I loves chopping stuff up!
That tailgate makes a darn good work bench!

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So I'll use the Chevy mounting hardware and make some stands to bolt to the frame. ... really, I'll cut the pieces and try to tack them together with the crappy welder that DIDN'T get stolen... and take them to a buddy of mine that has a welder. He's a much better welder than I am anyway.

Then it'll look like thus.. but with some steel holding it in place instead a chain and tie down straps.

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.. the ratchet straps are to get the right pitch and yaw.. not actually hold it up..

I got a combination U-joint to go from the 700r4 yoke to the input yoke on the NP200 transfer case. I thought I would have to have the jack shaft cut down.. PITA.. but just doing away with that and just using 1 joint will work. Another guy at the Zone did that on his 396/TH400 build. And the 700r4 is long enough that that will give a few inches of room between the HEI dizzy and the firewall.
It'll be close on the fan clearance though... may have to go electric fan. We'll see.

I bought some steel for making mount perches and a frame for the transfer case controls and parking break lever to bolt to the transmission. but I screwed up and bought 2x2 inch square tubing for the control frame... need to have 1x1.. dummy.
I'll see if my welder buddy has some to trade..

The cable dude from Time Warner was here ALL DAY yesterday. Not his fault. Good guy, been with them 17 years and knows his stuff. but my house is a hassle to work on... It did kinda bother me that this 60ish year old guy was whistling and singing songs from 80s girl bands... "I am the warrior!"
But he needed my presence just enough that I didn't get anything done outside while he was here. So I spent most of the time mulling over wiring diagrams, switch options and doodling.

I rethought my relay plans.. again.
Relays for horn, battery isolation, HEI and fuel pump. Just 2 fuse blocks, 12 fuses on those and inline fuses for HEI and fuel pump. The 2 fuse blocks and horn relay in the big box on drivers side, other 3 relays in the little box by the batteries.

I had planned on keeping the stock ignition switch so I bought a Moroso starter button. But then decided it needed a key somewhere so got a universal keyed switch from Tractor Supply.

BUT I still like the stock switch... so I'm going to use ALL of them! A little added security plus annoying other people.. BONUS!

On the keyed switch the acc position is counter clockwise. I won't use it at all... well, maybe power radio and 12v outlet with acc and run positions. Turning it clockwise (run) will be acc and pass juice to the ignition switch. Turning it to the start position will trip the fuel pump relay to prime it after it sits a while. Then go to the ignition switch which will juice up the HEI and then the Morose start button to start the dang thing.

The fuel pump relay diagram I'm going by uses a 3 prong oil pressure switch as a kill switch if the engine dies. The start circuit will bypass that so it's energized during startup. If the bowl is empty I'd have to keep cranking while the pump fills the bowl. I thought having a priming function might come in handy.

K. Going to wash my hands, clean the kitchen and start frying pork chops. mmmm...
 

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#22 · (Edited by Moderator)
Today is my only day off this weekend so i just piddled with the motor mounts some more. Need to spend some quality time with the missus.

The other day i bought a bunch of steel to make mount perches, but yesterday I found these laying around at an undisclosed location... perfect. I snatched them up.. 1/2 inch wall tubing, 1/2 inch plate.
I took this after cutting the ends at an angle

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And this is them clamped in place and the motor mount assemblies on the engine.

IMG_20150411_141207_481.jpg


The shock mounts were right in the dang way. The mounting bolts for those go all the way through the frame and get in the way, so I guess they're getting welded back on. I'll cut or drill a drain hole in the bottom of them while they're off. They seem to be designed to catch crud. There was 40 year old mud and crud caked up in there.

I managed to get the feed on my wire welder to behave enough to weld the plates to the tubing. But it was still jerking and popping some.. pretty crappy welds. Notice the lack of pics..
Next time me and Randall are both off work he's coming over with his big welder and put it all together.

I've got about 15 pages of notes and diagrams for the wiring, just about got it all planned out. Bought a cute little Dorman red indicator light for the "alt" light. I've been studying 12si alternator wiring and the VAST majority of them show an alt light between the #1 terminal and the Run position on the ignition switch. Either that or a diode. The light was there and I didn't feel like jacking with Radio Shack... so a light it is.
 

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#23 ·
Randall came by last Thursday and welded the mount perches in.

I did some other little stuff. Cleaned the adapter plate under the carb up and bolted it on. New heater hose fittings for the intake and water pump... More little things I can't remember now.

I got up Friday ready to hit the ground running and get things done. Started sprinkling as soon as I got outside. Light rain on and off... just enough to keep me from getting anything major done. No cover over the truck.
I got the fuel pump mounted to the frame and spliced into the fuel line and started piecing together a bracket for the transfer case levers.

I need to be working on an updated inventory of things that got stolen from us. The insurance company wants a more detailed list than what the police department has. And we've found some stuff... realized other stuff is missing... mess. And the insurance company wants their inventory and the one in the police report to match, so that means updating it and then trying to catch the detective who doesn't like to answer his phone or return calls and give him the new one.
Today I avoided working on that updated inventory and installed the new Selectro lockout hubs. It went just like when I installed the Aisin hubs on my Trooper.. only BIGGER... and the bolts I was taking out had been in there for decades.

It had studs for the axle flange. I saw some posts on the Zone talking about the studs being too long and getting in the way of operating the hubs. I pulled them out and used some allen head bolts just like what I used on the Trooper hub install... only BIGGER.

Then I welded the shock towers back on with the crappy wire welder the thieves wouldn't steal. Then put new shocks on.

After that I set the engine and trans back in and started again on the lever bracket...
This part is seriously kicking my butt. I WANT the levers to be in the same position as they were, gonna be tough. Even if I can get the bracket positioned right, there's a big protrusion off the starboard side of the 700r4 that's REAL close to where the bottom of the bracket needs to be... And the cooling line fittings are REAL close to where the bracket needs to be... as is the port where the TV cable goes into the trans...
It's really, really crowded RIGHT there.

I know I can MAKE it work and function properly... but maybe not where I want it to be.

I was trying to hold all the pieces up where they need to be and scope the situation out. Realized that all the bolts and stuff I pulled off during disassembly were not stock, but bits and pieces cobbled together by somebody. Bolts for pivot point pins that are way too small, tons of washers, a lug nut for a spacer between levers... NOT that I've never repurposed a lug nut before... but maybe that would explain some of the rattling I had before.

I'll study the drawings some more and try to figure out which parts are bushings I don't have and which are spacers I don't have... look for better pics online... I've found a bunch on the google and on the Zone but I need some closer shots....

These are separate drawings of the parking brake and the transfer case levers... but they all go on the same bracket.
 

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#24 · (Edited by Moderator)
Went to Lowes this morning. I like Home Depot better... better service, they hire a lot of disabled vets. But their selection of oddball hardware is lacking.
Found some bushings I needed.

I fiddle farted around with the linkages and bracket for a while this morning... put the engine and trans in and measure, pull it out and measure, mock up some steel and measure... finally just got fed up and started welding stuff together.

I got the bracket as close as I could to where it's supposed to be. Think I got the front part of it a little too high or the back too low.. anyway the angle of the dangle is wrong. Thought about cutting the brackets I made on one end and changing the angle... not sure I could get enough out of it..

As it is, the pivot bolt on the bottom of lever 8 doesn't quite line up with the hole in the bracket, I can drill a new hole about 1/2 inch farther back on linkage 26... and trim the floor panel a little bit. So i'll do that.

That means the engine is IN. I'm NOT pulling it back out... I bet I've put it in and removed it a dozen times.

I've got it wrapped in plastic for the night. Hopefully I'll get done with the shift levers tomorrow and get the plugs, wires, heater hoses, carb and linkages, fuel line... all that done. And when the oldest boy gets home from work he can help me put the front clip back on.

Then start on wiring...

I did take a pic of the Selectro this morning.

IMG_20150421_100536_756.jpg


uh oh... the Mighty Wife is jonesing to clean her closet and I am in the way... I shall hit the submit button and get started on dinner. Chicken fried steak, mashed taters, gravy and corn tonight.
 

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#25 ·
U know how many times I've counted u going off subject since you vowed not too? See i told you, not only is staying on topic not necessary, it's impossible!

I'd say looking good, but u took a pic of something ur not even doing...so instead I'll say sounding good! Be whipping it around in no time it sounds like.
 
#26 ·
LOL, quit counting..

I woke up this morning, wide awake.. BAM! NONE of that crap I did yesterday will work. Just looked at some more pics of those linkages, yup, gotta pull the engine back out and cut all that stuff back off.

*sigh*
 
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