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FWC build

10K views 50 replies 9 participants last post by  squatch 
#1 ·
See what you've done Shaggy! :lol:

Anyway if you've been paying attention you know a while back I bought a Four Wheel Camper slide in pop up for my Spacecab.
viewtopic.php?f=21&t=81534

You probably also know that the multi year Spacecab project is still not finished. Though it's getting close.
viewtopic.php?f=15&t=56442

So in the meantime we've used the camper ala Jed Clampett on the boat trailer a few times as a travel trailer. Including a trip to URE. Once again the annual beach trip to OBX is coming up and we have decided to do the trailer thing again.
viewtopic.php?f=21&t=84064

Hopefully this will allow me the time to get some solar charging set up to run the refrigerator and such entirely on solar panels. And do some other mods to the camper for back country self supported use.

Before I get too far into this here is a link on RV solar for anyone that is interested in this stuff. It's a great read.
https://handybobsolar.wordpress.com/

If you've been reading the camping toys thread you know I've spent some money lately.
Things like a new solar Road Shower for the roof rack.


 
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#27 ·
The last night we were at the beach there was a good storm. When it was over around dawn the wind stopped. When the wind stops on the Outer Banks the No-See-Em's come out in droves. Screens don't even slow them down.
They collect around lights. Nasty little biting buggers! :(




A picture of the camper on the truck.


The '05-'06 double cab Tundra has a 20" deep bed instead of the 17" that was on earlier models. So I had to build a riser platform to raise the camper. I made a quick one out of 2x4's and 3/8" plywood.






It works well. But I will probably remake it out of 2x3 and lower the camper an Inch. This board is a true 1". It fits fine all the way around when I checked for clearance.


I'll also trim the rubber bumpers on the front of the camper to snug it forward an inch or so.
 
#28 ·
Our 2012 Eagle came with the single eyebolt with a small aluminum backing plate. Because of the large wheel wells in Black Beans I needed to move the front mounts forward a couple of inches. I purchased the newer style 3 bolt mounts from FWC. They have a larger backing plate. I centered them on the old hole and drilled a new hole fore and aft of that one. I then used the old eye bolt for the front most bolt. This gives me 2 eyelets to fasten to.

Old style.


New style.


This allows me to hook up the turnbuckles to the new bracket. And also to run a safety chain from the trucks factory tie downs to the old eyelet on the bracket. Might be nice to have if I ever break a turnbuckle. I intend to eventually do the rear mounts this way as well.


I also got my Bike rack sorted. Because of the overhang of the camper I had to use a 9" extension on the hitch.




 
#29 ·
The next thing to be dealt with is the uncomfortable bed cushions. They were removed and stored in the basement. I was going to get new foam cut but decided to try something else 1st. I had a couple of 3.5" self inflating sleeping pads I regularly sleep on top of a cot with. They are very comfortable. So I thought I'd try a test.

The 1st item to be covered is the step in the bed caused by the slide out.


So I picked up some 1/2" ESP foam and cut a piece to fill the space in front of the slide out. It lifts up and rests on top of the slide out when closed. It should add a little insulation on cold nights as well.




Add 2 extra large 30"x77"x3.5" REI self inflating mattresses. Old and a new one.


Sleeping bag on top. It's pretty comfortable and I'll try it camping soon. If we need more cush we can move up to the Exped Mega Mats. These inflatables should allow us to keep the bedding on the bed when traveling and be much more comfortable to sleep on.


As you can see in the above pics we have the internal 60# gas struts in our camper. After adding the solar panel I'll be upgrading soon to external struts both front and rear to help with the roof lifting chores.
 
#31 ·
We had a broken roof vent cover on one of our fantastic vents. I ordered a replacement. I didn't realize until it came in that it had a domed top and not flat like the normal ones for these vents. Not an issue for us. And now it is clear again. I fogged the plastic on the old one with DEET.





The new one has an upgraded mount for the lifting arm.

Installed.




I also ordered a rear hitch mounted step and a device for holding it steady in the hitch. Both work very well. The step has a bit of a slick finish. I intend to coat it with some bedliner for traction. I'll also add a little reflective tape.
https://www.amazon.com/CR-Brophy-Machin ... hitch+step







Our camper has the internal gas spring to assist lifting the top. They are a bit challenged since I added the solar on the roof. I'm still doing my homework on moving to 4 outside lift struts. In the meantime I have ordered 2 80lb struts to replace the existing 60 lb ones on the inside. They should be here any day.

We've had the camper almost 2 years now. it has taken several week long trips. But I'm just now getting around to using the stove and furnace. Both work well.
1st pot of coffee on the stove.


Pic from latest trip.
 
#32 ·
That is a beautiful well thought out set up. Incredibly high standard of work. I also liked it when it was sitting on the trailer. A camper with its own deck was pretty appealing...
 
#33 ·
Just built my new solar suitcase charger.

Back when I bought the big 160 watt panel for the roof of my camper I also bought 2 smaller 60 watt panels. Couldn't beat the price.


I placed the panels side by side on a table and connected them with 3 small hinges I had.


Pop riveted on.


I added some web strap handle to carry the suitcase.


I used 10 gauge automotive primary wire to connect the 2 panels in parallel. There wasn't room in the connection box for 8 gauge connectors. The other end of the short cables go to a color coded (orange) Anderson powerpole connector.


The Anderson connector plugs into an extension cable I made out of 8 gauge duplex marine cable. with Anderson connectors on each end. Other than the few inches of 10 gauge at the panels the entire wire run is 8 gauge.


This extension plugs into a connector at the back of the camper. Inside the wire goes through a fuse to the charge controller. It's wired parallel to the main panel on the roof.


I still haven't decided on how I'm going to do the legs just yet. I'm thinking some aluminum angle that folds out from each end on the sides. But till I've used it a few times and figured out the angles I need I'll just prop it up on whatever is handy.


Together these panels make 120 watts. added to the 160 on the roof that 280 watts of solar power. Nice to have the extra in the winter or at times when it's cloudy or otherwise have a short time to charge the battery.


Yesterday when I tried it out it was very cloudy. And the camper battery was at 100%. The fridge has been turned off since mid December. So I turned it on max and turned the temp down to 0* to draw the battery down for a few minutes. Per my Trimetric monitor as soon as I plugged the panels in the amperage being charged doubled and the voltage went up a couple of 10ths. I consider this a success. even with very little sun the battery was topped off in a few minutes.

I intend to pick up a small self contained charge controller to add to this. I'll use the same 8 gauge cable and an Anderson connector to be able to connect the charge controller to the extension cable. I'll do the same on the output side so I can switch battery connection by just plugging them in. This way I can use this setup as a stand alone battery charger. My trolling motor batteries in the boat need charging after every trip. I can use this to do that at home or even on the river.
 
#34 ·
Wow, nice job. You are set.
 
#35 ·
Now I won't need to move the truck at FT Frederick! :lol:

Once I get the spare charge controller it'll work on the Coleman too!
 
#36 ·
I spent some money today in the name of a good nights sleep.

The camper came with pads to cover the bed made out of concrete foam. That didn't work so well. We then went to what is posted above. A rigid foam filler to make up the gap caused by the pullout.





Topped with 2 REI 3.5" self inflating pads. This surrounded by an edge filler of 4" memory foam scrap I had. This keeps the mattresses together in the middle. Bottom line this has worked well and is very warm in cold weather. Very comfy. Not as bulky as the factory cushions when stowed. But requires me to set up the full queen bed. And one of my self inflaters is leaking at a seam now.

So today I went to the "House of foam". I took all the cushions from the camper. They let me try several pieces laid on the floor. We found one that felt good. Still 4" like the factory foam. But a heavier density and not as firm or rigid. I sink into these cushions. But cannot drive my hip into the floor. Should be real nice. They wrapped the cut foam in some kind of slick wispy material and lightly spray glued the edges. This stuff made the cushions slide right into the upholstery slick as a whistle. So now we have new softer cushions in the factory covers.





With a double sleeping bag on top. I laid up there for a while. It felt good. It was also easy to crawl around. Before with the self inflaters or with a topper on the factory cushions. It was cumbersome to crawl about.


New foam on top vs Old foam on bottom. These feel completely different when you squeeze them. The new stuff is a little more springy feeling. and compresses better.


So at the moment I'm thinking this is the best route to go. But it's not cheap. The advantages are I can set the bed up in 3 different lengths with the factory cushions. And set up is simple. The cushions just have to be stored when traveling.

The old large mattress was like trying to get plywood in and out of the door. The new one was a piece of cake as it would bend easily.
 
#37 ·
The couch cushions are the same stuff as the old bed cushions. Firm is not as bad on the couch. Your weight is not nearly as spread out when sitting. But the old foam on the couch was a little squashed "Squatched" from being sat on :shock:. So to save some money I had them cut 2 replacement cushions out of the lightly used old large bed cushion. Worked fine for the moment. I can always drop by and have softer cushions cut for the couch as well. Especially now that I know the backrest also has a zipper on the cushion.

Speaking of the zippers. The man at the foam shop commented on the good quality zippers FWC used and the wrap around which made it easy to swap the foam.


For now these will be fine. I'm really the only person that sits here much anyway.
 
#38 ·
Just so's ya know... if I ever get around to messing with solar systems, I'll be referring to this thread...
 
#39 ·
No problem with that. I can refer you to some good reading.

So far I've been tickled pink with how well it works. Nothing like being self contained with free electricity.

The fridge instead of a cooler is a real game changer as well.
 
#40 ·
I decided to start some more camper tuning. To use the Eagle in my Tundra I had to build a platform. I went quick and simple with 2x4's and plywood. It's pictured above. The design worked great but needed a little tweaking for a better camper fit. So I took it apart to reuse the plywood and made a new one of 2x3's. This should have the wings of the camper just at the bedrails.






I did some light sanding on the wood for the new one. No great pains just knocked the fuzz and splinters off. Much better for painting.




2 coats on all sides of some dark grey latex porch enamel. The camper base will get the same treatment next.




Not really enough room for any storage so I insulated the underside of the platform with 2" rigid foam. I figure it has to help in cold weather.


Finished product.


I've found that with the hard bed cover that came with my truck I can usually leave the riser in the truck bed when the camper is off and still have good use of the bed most times. Saves finding a place to store the riser.

I figure with no insulation this 2" has to help under the camper. In the next few day I intend to pull the camper in the garage and give the bottom plywood a couple of good coats of the same stuff. I was thinking of using a DIY bed liner product but I intend to insulated the bottom of the camper and figured the paint would be simpler. It's cheaper for sure. The camper also has recesses under it like the riser. But only 1' deep. FWC put skid strips on the bottom to make this. I also bought some 3/4" rigid foam and will insulate under the camper floor as well. Just like the riser. That will be almost 3" of foam under the floor. Before cold weather next fall I'm thinking of also wrapping similar foam around the exterior of the plywood base.
 
#41 ·
As far as tuning the fit I have found some firm poly foam I intend to use to replace the big rubber baby buggy bumpers on the front of the camper base. I should be able to get it at least an inch closer to the rear of the truck cab that way. Too much gap as it is.


 
#42 ·
Nice camper. I've considered this type of camper for the wife and I.
 
#43 ·
Thanks.

A quick shot of the platform in the Tundra. The eyebolts are for securing the camper.


The underside of the camper was due for some cleaning and paint. It was dirty and weathered.




I washed it off and gave all the wood a quick sanding with a palm sander and some 120 grit. Masked then the camper got the same porch paint the platform got.


2 coats later. I brushed the inside corners and anything else that needed a brush. The bulk was rolled with a 6" mini roller.




Then 3/4" of rigid foam between the runners.


Milk crates support the camper well. Nice fit.
 
#44 ·
Bigger than I need bumper on the front of the camper. These space it off the front wall a bit too far for my truck. I think these are just generic truck/loading dock bumpers.


I'm going to try making the new ones from this packing foam. It's not like I back the truck under the camper with any force. The turnbuckles hold it in place once fastened. So I just need a small spacer with a little bit of cush,


Old bumpers removed. I'll post more pics once I make the new ones.
 
#46 ·
Sweet.
 
#47 ·
I replaced the larger than needed front bed bumpers with some packing foam.






This and the new platform should make the camper fit much tighter in the truck.

YOU MIGHT BE A ******* IF PHOTO!
 
#48 ·
I am not sure about using the tractor to tow the camper. It seems a bit slow. If you leave now, you might just make it to Uwharrie in time for the meet.
 
#49 ·
Back where it belongs. The lower platform and smaller bumpers improved the fit in the truck a lot!




Much tighter to the truck.




The grey paint cleans up the look a good bit as well. No more raw lumber exposed.




And a good shot of the steps with traction tape and reflective tape.
 
#50 ·
I bet that helps the ride down the highways too!
 
#51 ·
Until I added the E rated tires this truck rode like a nice sedan empty. Still rides nice but without the camper the tires are stiff. I added the Firestone airbags to help support the camper. These trucks are not heavily sprung.
 
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