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The heavy part of my job ....

211K views 1K replies 41 participants last post by  93trooperpooper 
#1 ·
Some of you know I'm a heavy construction mechanic... Well this is one of those days where you pucker !!







That's a 10' tube on that there wrench, the hydraulic cylinders have a huge gland nut put on to about 6-800 ftlbs of torque !!! In the past I have used a mini excavator to push on the wrench just to break that torque... One down and one more to go.. I think each cylinder rod weighs 150 plus lbs to uuuggg !!!
 
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#1,002 ·
That sure is a neat old truck !! Down at my auto parts store they have an old ford model T coil , you know the ones in the little wooden box !! I guess one coil per cylinder , so cool to see that kind of stuff ...

Things finally slowed down enough for me to pull my service truck into the shop , trany issues , third gear bounces the gear shift and fourth gear is eating up the cynchro (have had to double clutch it to keep it from grinding) ...
 
#1,003 · (Edited by Moderator)
So here's another "work related" pic with a tip for all of us.
planet pictures 001.JPG

This was a $200-$300K garbage truck. Garbage attracts...Rats. One rat decided he needed a bit more "fiber" in his diet and gnawed at the wiring. Unfortunately, he chose a direct circuit causing the cable to short and the truck to flame. I looked carefully, but didn't see any rat bones, so he got away. Have seen many vehicles with rat damage over the years.
Moral of the story: If you add an electrical option or circuit, add a fuse as close to the battery or original wiring you tap into as possible. In the past, we had other trucks cooked from electrical add ons (cab fans) before they made a rule to add fuses to any electrical modifications. Dennis
 

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#1,004 ·
That'll buff right out...

Seriously, reminds me of this weekend, when I was doing some work in the garage. I wanted to add a circuit to my electrical panel for a dedicated outlet, so I threw the main to shut off power. Box is safe, right? The bare ground wire I was fishing through for my new outlet came in contact with the bare live and the neutral where they came into the main breaker - while I was holding it. Luckily the current all went to the dead short and I was treated to arc blindness and ozone, followed by a shorts check. Off is only off AFTER the switch, dummy. Just for the record, 12 GA wire will not carry 200 amps. Not for long, anyway.
 
#1,005 ·
Glad all's well after that experience. Last year I had a lightning strike that wiped out many breakers. Insurance paid for a new breaker box. I thought pulling the meter would be safety enough, but the electricians putting in the box had the electric company disconnect power to the house completely. Can't be safe enough. And what a loss for the city. Wonder how they'll write that off.
 
#1,006 ·
They have a "rainy day" fund for stuff like that. We recently went to mandatory recycling (you don't have to recycle, but you DO have to pay like an extra 5.00 per month for recycling). They bought a bunch of new special recycling trucks, hired drivers, spend a WAD. Then the cry went out that the recycle trucks wouldn't fit down certain alleys. They "found" money for (I think) 4 more new trucks. Now these aren't automated trucks like the fryer, but they are still expensive. Dennis
P.S. Gwana - glad you're okay, that could have ended very badly. Can't be too careful with electricity. D.
 
#1,007 ·
That thing burned to the ground practically wow !!

I just wired in a sub panel out in the garage so I could eleminate the junk wiring up in the attic (aluminum tied to copper in a not so safe box) it turned out nice and clean and now the dryer and water heater are safely wired into the new panel out in the garage , I also added a couple 20amp 110 outlets for the small welder which worked great !!

I've been working on the bobcat last few days , since it has an Isuzu engine in it I'm curious if those little Japanese characters designed this thing too , it's so frustrating to crawl into !!!
 
#1,008 ·
And then you have "dumber than stupid". We have one "mechanic", he is universally known as "the idiot" (and other unprintable names). Last week he had ordered a replacement driveshaft for a John Deere Gator (utility scooter). This is a 2 piece shaft that connects the FWD and the RWD. It is a solid 2 piece shaft w a carrier bearing and a CV joint in the middle. There is a long section and a short section. "Idiot" picks up the long box the shaft came in. He brigs it back a few minutes later "This isn't the right shaft. Mine has a short section" he says as he pulls the long section partly out of the box. The other parts person pulls the whole shaft out of the box (exposing both halves) and says "Try turning it over". :roll: Dennis
 
#1,009 ·
Hey Brad and Dennis.

I have a problem with our little Hyster s50xl forklift and am too cheap to pay a service guy to come out an fix it. So, I am gonna try and fix it myself.

When the main mast cylinder hits max extension, I hear a air leak noise from the main seal and then fluid starts leaking out of that seal. It leaks and pours fluid till I lower the forks a little then it stops. When that cylinder is not maxed out even with a heavy load, it doesn't leak. When that cylinder has no load on it (disconnected from the mast) and I max it out, it does not leak.

I assume / hope that it is just the seal right behind the big old gland-nut at the end of the cylinder. Does that sound right? If so, how do I get to that seal? Do I just pull of the "clevis" on the end of the ram and use a spanner to take off the gland-nut? Is this thing gonna fly open when I pop that gland-nut off? I am pretty sure there is no pressure on the ram, because when I open the valve (push the up-down lever to the "down" position), I can raise of the lower the ram by hand...

I prolly should just have someone do this for me, but then I wouldn't get to really make a mess...
 
#1,010 ·
I doubt it is just the seal causing the "leak". If it doesn't leak under same conditions when not at full extension, I'd lean towards something being wrong with the very bottom of the ram. If it's like the picture, you might get away with just tightening the packing nut. Apparently, you've already had the top of the cylinder disconnected from the mast so my biggest concern (for your safety) is taken care of. Many forklifts can present a very dangerous situation when working on the mast cylinder (early on, I could have had this happen but I stepped back and thoroughly looked at the situation and realized the lift would have come down on me)
If the cylinder is at it's "resting" position (not lifting anything, and bottom of it's stroke), there should be no pressure and no spring force. Forklift cylinders are typically powered up and gravity down. Still, use all caution. Dennis
 
#1,011 ·
DSUZU said:
And then you have "dumber than stupid". We have one "mechanic", he is universally known as "the idiot" (and other unprintable names). Last week he had ordered a replacement driveshaft for a John Deere Gator (utility scooter). This is a 2 piece shaft that connects the FWD and the RWD. It is a solid 2 piece shaft w a carrier bearing and a CV joint in the middle. There is a long section and a short section. "Idiot" picks up the long box the shaft came in. He brigs it back a few minutes later "This isn't the right shaft. Mine has a short section" he says as he pulls the long section partly out of the box. The other parts person pulls the whole shaft out of the box (exposing both halves) and says "Try turning it over". :roll: Dennis
I work in electronics repair. We had a technician who didn't understand electricity or how to test a fuse. He once told a customer that her device took a long time to power up because the electricity needed a long time to get through her surge protector from the wall outlet. (It was a failed capacitor) It was always fun trying to do phone support with that tech. Is it plugged in? "Yeah" Is it plugged in on both ends? "Oh." <click>
 
#1,012 ·
Thanks, Dennis.

Yup, I read all sorts of stuff about how dangerous disconnecting the mast could be. On this model in order to remove the cylinder from the truck completely out, I would have to raise the mast, block it off and then pull the cylinder out below the mast. To just check the packing at the gland nut and hopefully to pull the ram & piston, I can lower the mast fully to access the cylinder. That make sense?

This cylinder is one of the ones where there is only a pressure inlet/outlet on one end - in this case the bottom. "Single Acting" I think is what they're called. With that in mind it seems like I have fluid on the wrong side of the piston and this is getting pushed past the wipe on the gland nut. Fluid should be pushing on the bottom of the piston to raise the shaft. On top of the piston I think there should just be air, right? I think this is what you are saying...

Is the seal between the cylinder-wall and the shaft-piston big fat o-rings like in a coil over shock? If that is the case, I should just be able to pull the whole shaft-piston assembly out of the cylinder and then replace the o-rings, right?
 
#1,013 ·
How many cylinders are there ? Sounds like the second to the last gland is bleeding by which puts fluid into the next gland , that pushes air until it gets to the fluids and then leaks ... telescopic cylinders can be a pain ... or it's just getting worn and sucking air in as the fluid gravity feeds back to the tank and then when pressurized pushes the air back out ... same but different ... you have to pull the rods out to be able to rebuild the packing and piston , a telescopic is all in one...
 
#1,016 ·
I've been on bucket detail lately , I reworked two yanmar buckets into smooth ones , they where originally tooth buckets that I had welded plates onto anyway and dirt and mild steel don't last long together :)



Then I jumped up to a big bucket that has turned into a battle of wits !!

I've always called them shanks but now they're called adapters



Digging up a concrete ditch that had conduit running through it for a school , apparently it was built like a bunker , double wall and top (school budgets I guess)



The old teeth are hard to find or obsolete along with the adapters so I had to update (sides cat style are easy to come by and match a couple other buckets we have)





This bucket is built like a brick shmit house !!

The bit is 1-1/4" thick , the new adapters are made for a bit that's 1-1/2"s so I figured it'd be less of a pain to just cut the whole thing off , it's been a long slow process let me tell ya..



My plasma cutter was powerful enough the cut through the bit itself but as you can see the shanks are all cobbled in there and super thick , all I can do is torch and plasma a little at a time , the slag pools up in the hollow parts of the shanks which is fine till it plugs up and then pops back ...

Makes me appreciate the smaller buckets way more !!
 
#1,017 ·
On our backhoes (obviously smaller), our welder makes "cuffs" to go over the teeth on the buckets. They use these for certain jobs where they don't want teeth. He extends the cuffs down into the bucket and burns holes through the bucket to have a pair of 1/2 or 5/8 bolts hold the cuff somewhat loosely in place. probably more for moving dirt than for digging. Dennis
 
#1,019 ·
I'll have to get some pictures and text them to you. Right now, welders off and I cam home early today - recovering from oral surgery* (most painful thing I have EVER dealt with, including vasectomy and nose job). Splitting headache. Pills haven't helped much - and I have taken more pills in the last week than in the last 5 years. Eventually, I'll get you pics. Dennis
*kind of funny, here we are talking about bucket teeth and MY teeth are sore.
 
#1,021 ·
Haha that's a good one N law !!

Sorry you're not feeling good Dennis, I hope things get better sooner than later ...

I had to go get a mini today , they said the boom was swinging randomly , I asked if they thought the rod or piston busted in the cylinder , his reply " Brad I'm to busy" ... For as long as he's been in the business I'd think that my co worker could have atleast poked his head down there (Mr to important to be captured) ... The pun fell out back in the main frame , besides crunching some of the outer tin on the housing I think it's fine ... Even found the pin laying on the track frame , doesn't look easy to get in there though ...
 
#1,022 ·
Thanks Brad. Pretty much down to headaches now. Doc says that's "normal" for this kind of surgery. He cut about a penny size piece of flesh from the back of my upper left jaw (where wisdom tooth had been) and grafted it over my left canine tooth for receding gumline. Pain was where he removed flesh. Plan to do some house work today. Yeah, "too busy". Goes right along with "we didn't want to bother you" - so they keep right on using a damaged or leaking piece of equipment until it fails. I also call it "the hero syndrome". Rather than call for a wrecker (or trailer), they try to nurse it back to the shop to save the road call (or embarrassment). JERKS! Dennis
 
#1,023 ·


Brad,
Did you get your start working on the big stuff, by playing with the little stuff when you were a boy?
 
#1,024 ·
Great. Now I'm trying to picture Brad doing a flash mob dance :lol: . Dennis
 
#1,025 ·
You don't know how spot on you are !! I showed that to my wife and she got a kick out of it too , that's awesome !!

I was kind of a destructive kid and took tonja trucks apart :) , I didn't break them I just liked the ability to pull the cab off ...
 
#1,026 ·
Finished up the bucket today , man that 1-1/2" thick edge is heavy !!







See how long it'll last this time :)
 
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